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looks a little bit like my philips kit. it was plug n play from start to finish.
there should be - on the car side 2 wires that had a connector that fit the OE bulb. Looks a bit like the end you're holding in your right hand - it should be male.
For a philps or morimoto kit - that will plug into a harness that supplies start up voltage to the ballast. This is the signal to turn on the system, and for a philips kit - is the power supply to. Now there are kits that have relay addons - and are wired direct to a battery line. IN those cases you headlamp plug would go to the relay kit first.
did any of that make sense?
as far as your intermitent issue now - it might be that your spliced wires aren't fully tied. question did you solider them back together, or did you use some buttsplice?
If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes
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It's the plug that would normally go in a halogen headlight bulb. If your existing HID kit had a relay harness, only one side needs to be plugged in to turn the relay on when the headlights come on. If you have a relay harness, you'll probably find a wire tapped into the positive post on the drivers side to the fender running to a relay which would then feed to the ballasts then the bulbs.
Matt Jones
2009 WH G8 GT Vararam/Kooks LT's/Corsa/BLP Probationary LL 219/223 .612/.615 112LSA/3.45s
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is it still flickering?
did you check the fuse in the relay harness (I assume it has one since the others I've used have had them). and did you check the relay?
When I used a relay harness for my GTO I did both sides together - IE two harnesses, 2 relays, to lines to battery. So each headlamp was separated - like they are on the car. This way a dead relay, or a dead fuse only killed one light.
now the new XenonDepot Sylvania kits with digital ballasts - don't need a relay harness. Mine is 4 years old now and no issue and I leave my lights on auto. I did pull the DRL though. I hate DRL's anyway.
The morimoto kit I installed for a buddy in his lexus - also didn't need a relay harness. The ballasts will tolerate as low as 9V DC.
Just an FYI.
Good luck and hope you find your issues.
If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes
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Originally Posted by
JessMan
Alright after zip tying everything up it hasn't done it since. Which is weird because I was shaking the entire harness and nothing changed before I tied everything up. Darn gremlins lol.
Don't you hate when that happens? I had mine die after a 1/4 mile pass, figured out the connector on the battery post was coming apart. I ended up replacing it and the fuse holder along with routing the wires better and it was all good.
Matt Jones
2009 WH G8 GT Vararam/Kooks LT's/Corsa/BLP Probationary LL 219/223 .612/.615 112LSA/3.45s
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This is the #1 reason why I've never installed my Morimoto HID's I bought over 2 years ago! Headlights are kind of important! lol

2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!

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Matt Jones
2009 WH G8 GT Vararam/Kooks LT's/Corsa/BLP Probationary LL 219/223 .612/.615 112LSA/3.45s