M6 Transmission Removal?

[tbully]

Does anyone have information (instructions, gotchas, etc) on removing the 6-Speed Manual from a GXP? I searched both boards (even checked out camaro5 briefly) and came up with nothing.

I have all of the shop service manuals and I'm sure they contain details instructions on how GM would like you to do it. However, I'd be willing to bet that the guys/gals that have done it a few times have a better way of getting the job done.

I'm considering doing my own clutch install now that I have the 2300 installed. My guess is that my clutch's days are numbered.....

Thanks!

[Greg@PacePerformance]

What do you want to know
I pulled mine over the weeked in my driveway.

Was it as easy as I was thinking... No. Was it a PITA... YES. Can you do it with a friend and a free weekend.... YES
Make sure you have atleast 4 jackstands and two floor jacks.

You will also need 4-6 long bolts to lower the engine cradle so you can remove the transmission.

[Devilish34]

No instructions but new pilot bearing, new slave and get a remote bleeder when you do it

[MIEngineer]

I didn't have the remote bleeder done when mine was apart.

Looks like every other RWD i've pulled prior.

[tbully]

Certainly plan on new pilot and remote bleeder as part of the job. I haven't look closely but I assume you can pull the shift linkage from under the vehicle without pulling apart interior (*shuddering*). I had the interior apart when I put in my gauges and "smoker" packages. What a pain! :-)

Is there a cooler on the M6? I didn't see one during the maggie install but wondering if they're using a core or two in the radiator.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

You will need to pop the top of the console off so you can remove the bolts that hold the shifter to the body of the car.

Yes there is a trans cooler built into the radiator just like the automatic cars and one of the quick connect clips took us about 2 hours to get out, there wasn't any tool throwing or yelliing as my young daughters were outside playing lol

The GXP slave is pretty expensive, but I think I have found a sutable replacement.
I also got an email back from Tick saying they don't make a remote bleeder for the GXP slave but I am working on that also and should have an answer very soon.

You will need 2 14mm x 2pitch x 120mm bolts (longer would have been better) and 2 16mm x 2pitch x 120mm bolts.
If you don't lower the engine the trans bellhousing will hit the trans tunnel before the input shaft is clear from the clutch fingers

[tbully]

You will need to pop the top of the console off so you can remove the bolts that hold the shifter to the body of the car.

Yes there is a trans cooler built into the radiator just like the automatic cars and one of the quick connect clips took us about 2 hours to get out, there wasn't any tool throwing or yelliing as my young daughters were outside playing lol

The GXP slave is pretty expensive, but I think I have found a sutable replacement.
I also got an email back from Tick saying they don't make a remote bleeder for the GXP slave but I am working on that also and should have an answer very soon.

You will need 2 14mm x 2pitch x 120mm bolts (longer would have been better) and 2 16mm x 2pitch x 120mm bolts.
If you don't lower the engine the trans bellhousing will hit the trans tunnel before the input shaft is clear from the clutch fingers

Good info as always Greg. I just had a face-palm moment on the dropping / lowering of the rear of the engine. I'm wondering if the blower will be in the way of doing that. I'm guessing it's going to be close. The cogs are only about 1-inch from the firewall as it is. This is turning in to a bigger project than I thought.

What are the bolts for?

What happens when you pull the trans cooler lines? (besides fluid all over the place) Is the refill process involved?

I thought the bleeder for the stock slave goes straight out the side and assumed any standard (straight) bleeder would work. I'm considering going with the McLeod Twin RXT. I assume that it has it's own TB/Slave however I haven't checked in to that.

Full disclosure: I'm hoping my stock clutch holds for a few months but I always like to plan just in case.


Edit: Just read your previous. Bolts are for the cradle. Also forgot that you are supercharged so there must be room. :-)

[Greg@PacePerformance]

My 2300 had room so yours should be fine too Just read your EDIT

The bolts are just longer than the stock ones. GM says to lower the cradle 65mm about 2.5" but I didn't need to go that far. The longer bolts are just to make lowering the crade easier and safer. You could run the stock bolts out but I didn't want to run out of threads and have the cradle/engine end up on the ground.

I think I lost more fluid from the clutch res than I did from the trans cooler lines. The pump is built into the trans so all you have to do is flush the cooler lines and fill the trans when it is reinstalled.

Yes the stock TOB bleeder does go straight out the side, but the remote bleeders replace that part and thread directly into the bearing so you need the correct fitting there.

[MIEngineer]

Tbully - if you need to borrow a few Non Harbor Freight 6 ton stands that go up fairly high and a 3 ton jack with great height let me know. I used to pop the manual transmission out of my old modified Volvo far more than I liked for replacement and these worked great. Could sit up under the car in the tunnel and work

I can lend a hand to a certain degree depending on when you plan to do it an so on but you are more than welcome to the jack/stands for a while.

I have the ZR1 twin disc in mine, but I did not do the install [as warranty covered labor on my issue]

[tbully]

Ha! I love the bold print. I've been known to be guilty of using HF stuff from time to time but try to stay away from it for the life protection stuff. :-) I may take you up on your offer on a second set of hands, especially because it sounds like you've done this before.

It's on the dyno right now. I fully expect them to call me and say 1) Cooked clutch or 2) Need more fuel. Or both! :-)

More to come.....