DIY BAP Install
I could not find too much detailed information on installing a Boost-a-Pump on a G8, so I decided to write up this DIY to help the next person. This install is not real hard to do once you figure it out. This DIY applies specifically to the Kenne Bell BAP, but others are similar. It also applies to an install with a Maggie, but other applications would be similar except for the location of the boost port for supercharged applications, or vacuum port for N/A applications.
Additional parts needed:
20 ft. of stranded 10 AWG single conductor wire (this in more than you should need, but close)
Box of 10-12 weatherproof butt splices
2 ft. of 5/32nd vacuum hose
Tools needed:
Drill and drill bits
Screwdrivers
Wire cutter/stripper/crimper capable between 10-22 AWG
1. Remove cargo netting.
2. Pull out trunk mat.
3. Unscrew the 4 plastic nuts holding the back plastic trunk panel in place, cargo net was attached to these.
4. Pull out back back trunk panel.
5. There are two large plastic push pins holding the carpet panel on the side of the trunk. You will be working on the side where the battery is. Use a screwdriver to remove these pins. They are near the top.
6. The carpet panel should now be able to be pulled to the side/front of the truck. Not necessary to remove it completely.
7. There is a frame member that crosses the trunk above the driver side wheel well. It has a good flat spot for mounting the BAP.
8. Place the BAP in a good place on the frame member and a mark one of the holes to mount the BAP. Pre-drill the hole, put the BAP in place, and attach with provided screw.
9. Continue drilling and placing screws until BAP is fixed in place.
BAP1..JPG
10. There is another frame member above the amplifier for the subwoofer ahead of the battery. You can place the controller here so that it is hidden, yet you can reach it by removing the battery access panel.
11. Mark, pre-drill, and attach the controller here.
BAP2..JPG
12. Remove the rear seat bottom. There is are two clips at the front near the center of each of the perforated seat sections. Pull up sharply to remove the clips. Pull the seat out completely.
13. Under the seat on the passenger side is a bundle of wires that go through a rubber grommet to the fuel pump.Unwrap the tape between the white wire clip and where the wires disappear into the side of the car.
14. There will be one wire in the bundle that is gray and thicker than the rest. It is about 12 AWG. Cut this wire in the center and strip both ends.
15. Take the stranded 10 AWG wire that you purchased and feed it into the trunk. If you push the side of the driver side rear seat inward you will see where the other wires are feeding into the trunk. Tuck the wire behind the rear seat and run it across the bottom of the seat to the cut wires you stripped earlier. Strip the end and attach it with a butt splice to the wire coming from the side of the car.
16. Pull on the wire in the trunk to take up excess slack, cut to length and attach this wire with a butt splice to the RED wire that has an INLINE FUSE, this is the input side for a KB.
17. Take the remaining 10 AWG wire and feed in the same manner into trunk and across the bottom of the rear seat.
18. Attach this wire to the other end of the gray wire you cut earlier with a butt splice. This is the end that continues on to the pump.
19. Use wire ties to secure wires appropriately under the seat.
BAP3..JPG
20. Take up excess slack in the wire, cut to length, strip, and attach to the other red wire of the BAP.
21. Take the remaining piece of 10 AWG and attach to the black ground wire from the BAP.
22. Feed the wire under the battery, cut to length, and a crimp the supplied round wire terminal to the lengthened wire.
23. Remove nut that attaches the ground to the battery, slide the terminal on, and retighten the nut.
BAP5..JPG
24. Attach the controller wire to the controller (RCA connection)
25. Feed the remaining sense wire through the same hole at the front of the trunk in to the passenger compartment. Run the wire under the driver seat and up to the driver side footwell.
26. Remove the fusebox access panel at the driver side footwell.
27. Feed the wire up between the carpet and plastic side panel until you see it at the fusebox hole. Grab the wire and feed it up to the top of the plastic footwell side panel.
28. Under the very top of the carpet underneath the dash near the side is an approvimately 1" diameter rubber plug. This will give you access to the engine compartment. See this thread for good pictures and details, this same plug is often used for WB installation:
http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=9013
29. Pierce the center of the plug and then feed the wire through. I ended up ruining my plug when I was trying some different things. It is a PITA to get back in if you take it back out, especially when it has a hole in the center. I ended up going to the hardware store and buying a #5 rubber stopper and drilling a 1/4" hole in the center and feeding the wire trough the stopper. This may be a better solution since it still seals well and is a heck of a lot easier to remove and put back if you ever want to use the same location to run a WB temporarily or permanently. You do want to have this hole plugged. If it is not you will get ALOT more engine valve noise, engine bay air infiltration, also possible water infiltration.
30. Near the back of the Maggie on the driver side under the rear belt is the boost port:
port..JPG
31. Remove the little black plug.
32. The KB BAP comes with a very short length of vacuum wire to attach the boost sensor. I used this initially, but ended up changing it. Having the weight of the sensor suspended between the vacuum hose and the wires would seem to lead to a lot of vibration and possible failure ot the wired connections:
BAP8..JPG
33. I ended up getting a 2 foot section of vacuum hose and using that. According to the instructions that are supplied with the BAP you cannot use more than 2 feet.
34. Attach one end of the 5/32nd vacuum hose to the boost port and run it to an good location for mounting the sensor. Trim to length and attach the sensor.
35. Crimp on the blade terminals on to the end of the sensor wire and attach to the sensor.
36. Use wire ties to secure the sensor and wiring. Here is what I did:
BAP7..JPG
37. Now that the sensor wire is attached, pull excess slack back into the passenger compartment at the footwell. Tuck the wire between the carpet and plastic door threshold until you get to the driver seat.
38. Tuck the wire under the front of the driver side seat rail trim.
39. Tuck the wire under the back of the driver side seat rail trim.
40. Remove the torx screw from the back of the driver side rear seat plastic threshold, in silver here:
BAP4..JPG
41. Tuck wire under the plastic threshold trim from the driver seat to back seat. You may need to use a screwdriver at times to push it into location. You will not need to disassemble any other interior pieces to hide the wire. Reattach trim with screw.
42. Feed excess sensor wire into trunk.
43. Bundle and wire tie any extra sensor or controller wire in the trunk.
44. Start the car and let run a bit to make sure all is well.
45. Reinstall rear seat and all trunk trim. DONE!
Sorry for the blurry cell phone pics. I will replace with better pics when it warms up again. Too cold now.
Let me know you comments or further suggestions.
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