Wait for new Iphone, pay $300
Jump ship to Verizon, pay $175
Don't be a P$%#$, cuts from broken glass make you a man
If you like hard buttons you won't like the iPhone. All my phones were hard until I got the iPhone and while it took a little bit to get used to it, I LOVE it over the hard buttons plus the fact that you DON'T have to use MS makes it so much better it's not funny. If I didn't have an iPhone I'd have a Blackberry.
With the new 3.0 coming out all my issues with the keyboard will disappear.
2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!
Just talked to AT&T/Apple, it'll be $199 plus $30 to get the Iphone replaced, I'm not eligible for an upgrade "if a new Iphone comes out." I can only rock the 3G. If I jump ship, it'll be the same cost. This F*ing sucks.
Very stock... looking.
3E5X1 US Air Force
Deployed...errr...Vacationing at Eskan Village, KSA
Wait it out...you're almost there for the upgrade.
Send it in for repair! I don't understand why someone wouldn't. They turn them around pretty quickly.Originally Posted by PerfectD3
Chris
2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!
I'm telling you... with a little effort you can fix it yourself for like $30 (or less) buying the glass and digitizer off of ebay.
This taken from another board i frequent.
Alrighty then.
Materials required
-iPhone 3G
-New iPhone 3G glass AND digitizer assembly.
-(6) Clothespins.
-Phillips screwdriver (Preferably one used to repair glasses).
-Double-sided tape OR some sort of plastic-friendly adhesive.
-Suction cup.
-Thin plastic stick (Or Exact-O knife if you're careful enough).
-Hair dryer.
Step 1 - Remove two external screws indicated in picture.
Step 2 - Use suction cup to remove display assembly.
Get a suction cup, and make it stick to the bottom portion of phone's glass screen. Hold the phone in one hand, and lift the suction cup straight up SLOWLY. Assuming the suction is good, it should pull the display assembly right out. DO NOT pull it all the way, because you will tear some of the ribbon cables.
Step 3 - Disconnect the ribbon cables.
Lift the display assembly until it sits at a 45 degree angle with the phone's lower casing. Notice there are two ribbon cables, labeled 1 and 2. Pop them off vertically as shown below with the plastic stick. After taking those off, there is another cable that needs to be disconnected. This one is right underneath cable 2. This one does not pop off like 1 or 2, and will need to be pushed horizontally towards the top of the phone and slide out of its connector.
With the three ribbon cables disconnected, the display assembly is now completely separated.
Step 4 - Separating the glass from the LCD.
Remove 5 screws, as indicated by the red dots in the picture below:
There is one screw near the bottom-left corner of the frame that needs to be removed (Indicated by a green dot in the picture below). Afterwards, grab the outer-side of the metal brackets where you took the screws off and push them outwards. This will let the LCD assembly come off, otherwise you cannot remove it since the outer metal brackets will be in the way.
Step 5 - Separating the glass from the frame.
With the expensive LCD assembly safely evacuated, use a hair dryer and heat up the frame. Do so until the whole frame is heated evenly, and it needs to get fairly hot, like clothes straight out of a dryer. This will allow the adhesive holding the glass to the frame to soften up, making it much easier to separate the two pieces.
Use the plastic stick and wedge it under the glass (Be careful not to damage the rubber surround), and start prying the glass off while the adhesive is still softened up.
Once the glass has been taken off, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame and clean it to make sure any residue is gone. This is important, to ensure the new glass will sit evenly and correctly on the frame.
Step 6 - Installing new glass screen.
Using either double-sided tape or some sort of plastic-friendly adhesive, put a small dab/strip of it in the places marked by the red X, as indicated below. You can try to get some on the thin side borders, but it's difficult to do and if you thoroughly cleaned the old adhesives off, it will not make a difference in the end.
Once the adhesive has been placed properly, install the glass on the frame. Make sure the glass sits in the frame correctly, and not binding with the rubber surround. Use the clothespin like in the picture below to put pressure on the two pieces to ensure even contact. If you're using tape, proceed to put the phone back together, and for the adhesive users, go eat, drink, pee or screw your significant other until the adhesive cures.
Final Step - Check your work!
One everything is installed and put back in its place, turn on the phone and make sure the touch sensor and all the buttons work, and the LCD is fine. Done!
2008 IOM GT
Show: color matched headlights w/ audi LED, halo conversion and blue "transformer" eyes *link*; Midnight-Silver Camaro Wheels (want them to be black), GXP Diffuser; Limo tint; Plasti-dipped grille and pontiac emblems.
Performance: Flowmasters, CF Roto-fab
Someday: Solo exhaust, (leaning towards) RPM tune, GTPrix modded gauges, cam, kooks headers
Check my post prior to yours, I'm not eligible. I'd have to pay full retail.
I've looked into that, but everything I've read states it is high in difficulty. Also read were the Ebay ones are glass, not quartz, and will break easier than the stocker. For the quartz one, it's ~100.
Very stock... looking.
3E5X1 US Air Force
Deployed...errr...Vacationing at Eskan Village, KSA
If you are considering the Blackberry Storm I wouldn't recommend it. I have it because I wanted to stick with Verizon and it is a POS. Laggy OS, not many apps and a lot of them higher priced than the comparable iPhone apps. I should have just switched to AT&T and gotten an iPhone.
2009 Maverick Silver Metallic G8 GT
I have the HTC G1 with Android OS. I like it. I think I will "hack" it to get more out of it soon. Has a great interface that is customizable.
Plus I have a hard keyboard and touch keyboard. Camera sucks balls though.
2009 G8 GT: Stryker Blue, Premium Package, Garage
Modifications: Vararam Ram Air Intake, VMS PowerFlash, PM-FL no muffler axle-backs, ARH 1 7/8ths header system with cats
Deciding: Cam in a year?
Did you complete the newest update? My buddy has one and I had him do it and he was amazed by the speed increase...
Chris
2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!
Yeah, I am running .148 on it but the official from VZW is still .75 which is slow as shit. The .148 is a lot better but it still shows me the clock more than I would like.
2009 Maverick Silver Metallic G8 GT
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
