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Thread: P0174 Issue, 09 G8 GT

  1. #21
    VIP Member donkeyGT's Avatar
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    Shit man...how much do you charge for labor? The boss and myself could take a road trip to CO and we could stay at your place while you (and my expertise of course) could do a DOD delete/cam swap this would be cake for what your dealing with..

  2. #22
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donkeyGT View Post
    Shit man...how much do you charge for labor? The boss and myself could take a road trip to CO and we could stay at your place while you (and my expertise of course) could do a DOD delete/cam swap this would be cake for what your dealing with..
    That's not a terrible idea, but I don't tune, so that might be a tough one. I did replace one of the axle/cv shafts and seal in my truck as a break, which was nice because it was a clear start/finish kinda deal!!!
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  3. #23
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STL_G8GT View Post
    Wellllllllllllll

    got it back together with new gaskets, new injectors, new springs, and new lifters... still drifts. However, now it starts Bank1 @ -3% and Bank2 @ 0% and then at about 16mins through 20 mins Bank1 will go to 1% and Bank2 will climb to 5.5-7%.

    It seems that both banks will climb slowly, but bank 2 climbs exponentially more. These trims are significantly better than before, however the drift is still perplexing.

    Things that are new:
    Blower sealant
    Head Gaskets
    Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
    Injectors
    Springs
    o2 Sensors
    removed Cats


    Inspected, no faults found:
    Pushrods
    Valves
    rockers
    piston tops
    Lifter trays
    Spark plug wires
    Ignition Coils
    Wiring and both engine grounds
    Exhaust clamps/system
    Tested Spark distance @ temp and @ startup, both fine
    Fuel crossover @ blower

    If I think about this a bit differently, because both banks technically richen up, it really could only be bottom of the engine (extremely doubtful), a fuel pump issue (as fuel rails get hot and/or fuel pump heats up), or a ridiculous wiring issue that is temperature specific (again, doubtful).

    Oh well, at least she's got new springs in her!

    Figured I'd circle back here once more.

    Replacing all of those parts, freshening up the top end, putting in new injectors (incidentally the old ones came back from testing and ID said they're good as new), and a tune adjustment for the new injectors has the fuel trims more balanced / zeroed at idle. The long idle (20mins +) issue is still somewhat present, although greatly reduced. I did notice that it starts to drift at the 15-16min mark (idling, no throttle manipulation, in park), and then at the 25min mark the other bank starts moving as well. I can't imagine a scenario where I would ever idle it for a half hour, and even if I did, with the exception of the fuel trims adjusting, there are no ill effects. As soon as I put it in drive, and then return to park, it starts over again. I did check fuel temps at different points, and it's never high enough to truly cause an issue. I did find out that my fuel pressure gauge in the car displays 2psi higher than the actual sensor is putting out, so I adjusted the controller to 42psi at idle logged in HPT via the interface input. ( I believe it's a ground issue, although I've tried two stock ground points with no change. )

    The car starts, runs, drives just fine.

    I don't have any idle logs to compare to, to see if this is a newer issue or if it's always been present, but because of the way that it shows up over a LONG idle, I'm guessing that it's always been this way. The only thing that got me looking into it was the p0174 that may have been thrown because of any number of small leaks that I found and addressed, before fueling/airflow was adjusted because of the larger intake tube.

    I still would like the tune cleaned up for transients, eoi, and flex fuel, but remote is the only option, and that's a real pita.
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

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