Failed recall repair?

[RuLEoF2]

What if GM performed a recall repair and it fails?

I'm asking because my G8 GT is having the sticking brake light issue described in recall #09V172000. However, when I do a VIN search for my car on the NHSTA website, that recall doesn't come up which I assume means that their records show the repair as having been done. I bought it in 2014 from a dealer so I don't know anything about it's service history before then.

I'm also having a seemingly related intermittent ABS error issue described in NHTSA ID Number: 10026626

(pulled from the NHSTA website)

Manufacturer Communication Number: SB-08-05-22-005

Summary

PONTIAC: DIAGNOSIS: BRAKE LIGHTS STAY ON, CRUISE CONTROL INOPERATIVE, STABILITY CONTROL OFF MESSAGE DISPLAYED IN DIC, DTC C0161 SET-PERFORM BRAKE POSITION SENSOR (PPS) CALIBRATION USING TECH 2. CONDITION MAY BE INTERMITTENT. *PE UPDATED 11/1/10. *PE

[STL_G8GT]

Just call up a local dealer and talk to their service advisor. Don't tell them that you think the recall was already performed, let them find that out and verify it. Set an appointment and have it dropped off. If they're telling you they've already done the recall, ask them to perform the procedure again. Once you KNOW it's done, you can explore other options if the problem persists.

[RuLEoF2]

Just call up a local dealer and talk to their service advisor. Don't tell them that you think the recall was already performed, let them find that out and verify it. Set an appointment and have it dropped off. If they're telling you they've already done the recall, ask them to perform the procedure again. Once you KNOW it's done, you can explore other options if the problem persists.

Ok. I was thinking of going that route but I wanted some feedback first.

Can they refuse or charge me for performing the repair again if they say it was already done once?

[STL_G8GT]

Ok. I was thinking of going that route but I wanted some feedback first.

Can they refuse or charge me for performing the repair again if they say it was already done once?

Maybe... But it's maybe 1hr shop time or whatever... If you want the issue fixed it doesn't matter if they charge, right? :-)

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

[TA427]

When the dealer writes the car up, the dealer history automatically gets generated including recalls, you can call or ask to check it per vis.if it was done, be ready to pay 1.0 diag. If you know anyone with a tech 2, its all you need to run the sw. Calibration

[Markmsf3]

I didn't think a dealer would sell a car if it had a active recall without performing the recall first.

[RuLEoF2]

Just call up a local dealer and talk to their service advisor. Don't tell them that you think the recall was already performed, let them find that out and verify it. Set an appointment and have it dropped off. If they're telling you they've already done the recall, ask them to perform the procedure again. Once you KNOW it's done, you can explore other options if the problem persists.

I called the local GM service shop and they looked up my car in their system. They said that the recall I mentioned above doesn't apply to my car because it's outside the affected production range. However, they would be happy to diagnose the problem for $120.

When the dealer writes the car up, the dealer history automatically gets generated including recalls, you can call or ask to check it per vis.if it was done, be ready to pay 1.0 diag. If you know anyone with a tech 2, its all you need to run the sw. Calibration

That's great info. I'm going to ask around but I do have a number for a service that will come to me and calibrate the sensor.

Someone found the sensor part number for me (20995840) and it's pretty cheap. Under $10 in most cases. If I can get to it, I might just replace it first and then have it calibrated.

[TA427]

i would calibrate it first, because if you put the new sw in and the voltages are even 1 tenth of a volt off the current one, then you get abs,traction,etc codes galore

[RuLEoF2]

i would calibrate it first, because if you put the new sw in and the voltages are even 1 tenth of a volt off the current one, then you get abs,traction,etc codes galore

Sorry. I didn't see your message until today. Been pretty busy and I lost track of this thread.

I've already replaced the sensor about a week ago. Only took 10 minutes. Would've only taken 2 minutes had I not had to contort myself to get under there. It seemed better for the first day or so then went back to what it was. No errors of any kind, but no improvement either. I really wanted to have a better idea of where the problem was before I took it to the dealer.

So, after messing with it occasionally for a couple days, I became convinced that the problem was definitely a symptom resulting only from the pedal movement. It was the same whether driving or parked, engine on or off.

Just the slightest pressure on the pedal and the lights would activate. If I pushed down firmly all the way and let the pedal return quickly, the lights would deactivate normally. If I let up slowly and released the pedal, they would stay on. I could instantly correct it by tapping the side of the pedal with my toe. I could also make the lights flicker intermittently by tapping the pedal rapidly. It seemed pretty evident that it was that tiny bit of slop in the pedal linkage that was the source.

Since then, I poked around under there a bit more trying to figure out how to eliminate that slop without interfering with normal function. What I discovered was that it wasn't just the linkage slop that was the problem. It was also the plastic bracket that guided the sensor movement. That bracket had quite a bit of wiggle to it as well. Between the two, there was enough movement to screw with the sensor.

To verify my theory, I stabilized the plastic bracket with some rubber tape and a zip tie. Three trips now and not one false brake light. No ABS or stability control errors either.

I'm going to watch for a week or so and decide on the reacalibration later.

[TA427]

It will stay this way until you recalibrate brake pedal position sensor,as its not a simple on/ off brake sw. it reads like a throttle position sensor instead,from released to pressed state,the bcm has no reference without calibration,anyone with a tech2 go into the bcm module to calibrate it