Tensioner Fix

[TooManyHobbies]

After doing a lot of internet research yesterday I came to the conclusion that the tensioner that I bought after breaking mine at the 1/2 mile event was the exact same part number- Gates 38131. Lucky I guess. This is what is used as a heavy duty tensioner for Maggies it seems. The design was completely different though than the previous one I broke. O'Reilley auto parts still shows a picture of the previous design for the 38131. The previous had an angled arm that cleared the problematic bolt. In general manufacturers do not make changes to parts if they are trouble free. The new design seems a lot beefier. I would not be able to buy the old version, nor would I want to. I needed to figure out a way to make the new version work. First step today was buying a regular hex bolt rather than a hex flange bolt. This gave more clearance for the arm. I installed it and the tensioner arm cleared but barely rubbed. This would be trouble when the tensioner is flexing under load. I was going to have to have the bracket machined so I would have more clearance. Then I got to thinking that it is just aluminum, that I have a drill press, a woodworking forsner bit and a selection of clamps. I got the part clamped down firmly and got to cutting with my redneck machinery. The pocket I cut turned out beautifly. The bolt head now clears and I am back in the business of breaking parts, I mean racing.

[hflores3]

After doing a lot of internet research yesterday I came to the conclusion that the tensioner that I bought after breaking mine at the 1/2 mile event was the exact same part number- Gates 38131. Lucky I guess. This is what is used as a heavy duty tensioner for Maggies it seems. The design was completely different though than the previous one I broke. O'Reilley auto parts still shows a picture of the previous design for the 38131. The previous had an angled arm that cleared the problematic bolt. In general manufacturers do not make changes to parts if they are trouble free. The new design seems a lot beefier. I would not be able to buy the old version, nor would I want to. I needed to figure out a way to make the new version work. First step today was buying a regular hex bolt rather than a hex flange bolt. This gave more clearance for the arm. I installed it and the tensioner arm cleared but barely rubbed. This would be trouble when the tensioner is flexing under load. I was going to have to have the bracket machined so I would have more clearance. Then I got to thinking that it is just aluminum, that I have a drill press, a woodworking forsner bit and a selection of clamps. I got the part clamped down firmly and got to cutting with my redneck machinery. The pocket I cut turned out beautifly. The bolt head now clears and I am back in the business of breaking parts, I mean racing.

Preach brother preach!! What happened?

[hflores3]

Well that was a "dipsh*t" response with the picture clearly showing. :-) What I meant was "..was that under full WOT load? ....or it gave way afterwards?

[hflores3]

After doing a lot of internet research yesterday I came to the conclusion that the tensioner that I bought after breaking mine at the 1/2 mile event was the exact same part number- Gates 38131. Lucky I guess. This is what is used as a heavy duty tensioner for Maggies it seems. The design was completely different though than the previous one I broke. O'Reilley auto parts still shows a picture of the previous design for the 38131. The previous had an angled arm that cleared the problematic bolt. In general manufacturers do not make changes to parts if they are trouble free. The new design seems a lot beefier. I would not be able to buy the old version, nor would I want to. I needed to figure out a way to make the new version work. First step today was buying a regular hex bolt rather than a hex flange bolt. This gave more clearance for the arm. I installed it and the tensioner arm cleared but barely rubbed. This would be trouble when the tensioner is flexing under load. I was going to have to have the bracket machined so I would have more clearance. Then I got to thinking that it is just aluminum, that I have a drill press, a woodworking forsner bit and a selection of clamps. I got the part clamped down firmly and got to cutting with my redneck machinery. The pocket I cut turned out beautifly. The bolt head now clears and I am back in the business of breaking parts, I mean racing.

I'm in your classroom brother - learning from you again. So I would need to go to the O'Reiley's to "see" first hand that it is the new design.

[TooManyHobbies]

Preach brother preach!! What happened?

Lost belt and it took out the tensioner, or the tensioner went and lost belt during my burnout for second run at the 1/2 mile event this weekend. Full write up in racing section.