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Thread: B-Pillar Exterior Trim Replacement

  1. #1
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Default B-Pillar Exterior Trim Replacement

    Is the exterior trim (b-pillar, gloss black) replaceable without major surgery? I've tracked this part 92255724 for the front passenger, but I can't find a diagram that leaves me confident it's what I'm looking for.... or a replacement schematic. I managed to nick one of mine when I was replacing the black upper door trim.... and come to think of it, the paint has some defects at the top of one of the others (bubbling slightly).
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

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    Moderator LDM's Avatar
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    Never done it myself, but here's the procedure from the manual.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Len

    White Hot 2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT
    TVS1900 | Custom Texas Speed & Performance cam spec'd and remote tuned by Patrick Guerra | LS9 Injectors | Rotofab CAI | Corsa catback | Kooks 1-7/8" LTs with catted connectors

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    Addicted Member THE Adam V's Avatar
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    Yes it is replacable. I replaced mine. I had the whole door gutted though. I believe you only need to remove the window seal and the door seal to make it happen. 3 Phillips head screws. Make sure you use a magnetic #2 screwdriver or you will be taking that door panel off. Getting the top corner of the seal back on is kind of a pain figuring out how it goes back in. Just take a look at the other side of the vehicle. Not a hard job. Might take total 1 hour.

    2009.1 PSM GT Sport/Premium Package.
    OBX 1 7/8", 3" to 2.5" X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth, 6k HIDS, VCM OTR
    Rick C Intake and Throttle Body, MM Carbon Fiber Hood, 19x9.5 TSW Nurburgring, Pat G Tuned

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    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by THE Adam V View Post
    Yes it is replacable. I replaced mine. I had the whole door gutted though. I believe you only need to remove the window seal and the door seal to make it happen. 3 Phillips head screws. Make sure you use a magnetic #2 screwdriver or you will be taking that door panel off. Getting the top corner of the seal back on is kind of a pain figuring out how it goes back in. Just take a look at the other side of the vehicle. Not a hard job. Might take total 1 hour.
    Adam - thanks a lot... out of curiousity... can you remove the interior window trim without removing the door panel? The manual calls for all door trim removal....
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  5. #5
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LDM View Post
    Never done it myself, but here's the procedure from the manual.
    My man! Thanks Len - this reminded me that I had downloaded the manual and didn't check it because I looked at Alldata and came up short...
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  6. #6
    Addicted Member THE Adam V's Avatar
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    You only need to pull it down. Honestly if my car was home right now I'd go try it and take pics for you but it's currently at the shop again. I am pretty sure I had the panel on. And I pulled down on the top corner of the window trim. Window obviously has to be down for this. Even if you do need to take the panel off that is literally a 10 minute job in itself. It's a handful of Phillips screws and 1 connector for the door lock.

    2009.1 PSM GT Sport/Premium Package.
    OBX 1 7/8", 3" to 2.5" X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth, 6k HIDS, VCM OTR
    Rick C Intake and Throttle Body, MM Carbon Fiber Hood, 19x9.5 TSW Nurburgring, Pat G Tuned

  7. #7
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    I did this today...

    You DO need to take the door panel off - but no biggie, and don't forget that pesky screw right under the arm support! The plastic molded inner window trim needs to pop out of place near the b pillar... only up to the corner, enough to pull the vertical window seal loose. You pull the rubber window seal up and out of the door frame near the b-pillar, and peel it up until you can see the top screw of the fascia you're replacing - it doesn't need to come out any more than that. The outer upper window trim (black) will need to move up about 1/2" to give the top lip of the bpillar trim piece (the piece you're replacing) clearance under it. Remove the two screws holding the bpillar trim piece, and then use your hands to create leverage basically "unwrapping" the trim piece lip from around the back of the bpillar. At the same time, work that piece (the piece you're replacing) up and out of the door. Replace the piece, clamp down the outer upper window trim (it snaps back into place with a few retainers), and replace the screws into the fascia. Putting the inner window molded trim and the rubber window seal back in is a bit tough, just take your time. The plastic molded trim goes completely behind the rubber lip of the seal - which is important to remember when it goes back in. Take your time, don't get crazy, push the seal down into the door first, then up into the corner, and then work the plastic molded inner trim into and behind it. Hope this helps someone!
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  8. #8
    Member ClarkWGriswald1's Avatar
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    Old thread I know, but these b-pillar exterior trim pieces on my car need to be replaced. Where is everyone sourcing these? And are the original ones re-usable after they're removed?
    -WES-
    2009 WH G8 GT

  9. #9
    Beyond Help texn884's Avatar
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    I had a lug not hit mine on the passenger side last month when a wheel stud with a lug not attached hit my windscreen and had a softball size hole in it along with another nut hitting the panel.

    Some stupid ass towing his 50+ year old rv down the road and the hub broke off and the Rat ate them both the stupid mother fucker
    2009 Panther Black Metallic "The Black Rat"
    Current Modifications: Front end, Roof Pillars & Front top of roof has Clear Shield, Holden V8 6.0 Badges, Holden V Trunk Badge from Crazy Paul, UPR Catch Can, Corsa Exhaust & Roto Fab CAI. Spare Tire and Jack and Tinted Window's, hood scoops gutted, Poor Mans Heater Hose modification (holding up the hoses with zip ties), Painted the front dart to Panther Black.

    Patrick Guerra's Tune July 12, 2010: 345 HP, 355 Torque on 87 Octane
    Patrick's & Kurt's install of Kooks Long tubes 1 7/8" w/Corsa Connection Pipes
    11-3-10: 362 rwhp, 372 Torque and updated engine and transmission tune.

    New Engine as of 10- 5, 2011. Patrick & Kurt's tune and dyno 10-19 2011:363 rwhp, 365 Torque 93 octane.
    Sounds so GRRRR8 BECAUSE RACE CAR

    7-1-14 Brembo Front Brake upgrade & Bohnam Front Splitter installed Curt here

  10. #10
    Beyond Help texn884's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STL_G8GT View Post
    I did this today...

    You DO need to take the door panel off - but no biggie, and don't forget that pesky screw right under the arm support! The plastic molded inner window trim needs to pop out of place near the b pillar... only up to the corner, enough to pull the vertical window seal loose. You pull the rubber window seal up and out of the door frame near the b-pillar, and peel it up until you can see the top screw of the fascia you're replacing - it doesn't need to come out any more than that. The outer upper window trim (black) will need to move up about 1/2" to give the top lip of the bpillar trim piece (the piece you're replacing) clearance under it. Remove the two screws holding the bpillar trim piece, and then use your hands to create leverage basically "unwrapping" the trim piece lip from around the back of the bpillar. At the same time, work that piece (the piece you're replacing) up and out of the door. Replace the piece, clamp down the outer upper window trim (it snaps back into place with a few retainers), and replace the screws into the fascia. Putting the inner window molded trim and the rubber window seal back in is a bit tough, just take your time. The plastic molded trim goes completely behind the rubber lip of the seal - which is important to remember when it goes back in. Take your time, don't get crazy, push the seal down into the door first, then up into the corner, and then work the plastic molded inner trim into and behind it. Hope this helps someone!
    Where did you get the replacement piece??
    2009 Panther Black Metallic "The Black Rat"
    Current Modifications: Front end, Roof Pillars & Front top of roof has Clear Shield, Holden V8 6.0 Badges, Holden V Trunk Badge from Crazy Paul, UPR Catch Can, Corsa Exhaust & Roto Fab CAI. Spare Tire and Jack and Tinted Window's, hood scoops gutted, Poor Mans Heater Hose modification (holding up the hoses with zip ties), Painted the front dart to Panther Black.

    Patrick Guerra's Tune July 12, 2010: 345 HP, 355 Torque on 87 Octane
    Patrick's & Kurt's install of Kooks Long tubes 1 7/8" w/Corsa Connection Pipes
    11-3-10: 362 rwhp, 372 Torque and updated engine and transmission tune.

    New Engine as of 10- 5, 2011. Patrick & Kurt's tune and dyno 10-19 2011:363 rwhp, 365 Torque 93 octane.
    Sounds so GRRRR8 BECAUSE RACE CAR

    7-1-14 Brembo Front Brake upgrade & Bohnam Front Splitter installed Curt here

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