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Thread: Group Buy: RX Products Oil Catch Can & Breather

  1. #111
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    Hey all, thanks Fflores for steering me in here.

    A NA car may not need to do the drill mod, but it does not hurt. The RX systems have integrated flow controlling checkvalves so there is no worry about to much flow, but any other with just fittings there would be.

    With the added blowby from FI the tiny fixed orfice holes are not large enough to allow the crankcase to be evacuated at the rate it needs to and excess pressure can build up. Drilling is a simple way to fix this.

    With the OEM configuration any excess pressure will back flow through the fresh air tube to the main airbridge....and it takes oil mist back with it. Using an open breather will allow more air in not metered by the MAF and then your fuel trims will go nuts.

    The PCM looks at data from the MAF, the MAP, and the upstream O2's to determine how much fuel to add or take away. If this data is not withing the parameters the PCM expects to see it trys adding and subtracting fuel and you see the fuel trims going nuts thus the flow controlling breather is calibrated to only allow in the amount of fresh air the PCM can adapt to.

    Now on to the crankcase evac.

    If evacuating from the valley cover, the entire driverside bank remains stagnant and the combustion byproducts are not evacuated or "flushed". Evacuating from the rear of the drivers side valve cover the filtered fresh air enters the passenger side valve cover, either through the OEM line that attaches to the inner front of the passenger side cover, or the breather kit if used, past the valvetrain on the passenger bank, down the pushrod valley, through the center of the crankcase pulling and flushing the harmfull combustion byproducts through with it up the drivers side push rod valley and past the valvetrain out the rear of the drivers side valve cover.

    On a top mount PD blower, there is no intake manifold pressurized like a turbo or centri blower so the evac system is slightly easier. Simply (and do the drill mod on ALL FI applications or oil leaks may occur) install the oil separating catchcan between the vacuum barb on the blower snout and the valve cover vent, but a turbo or centri application you will want to evac at both boost and non boost operation.

    The intake manifold provides the evac at idle and non boost, but as soon as the primary valve senses positive pressure it closes, and the secondary valve opens using the inlet side of the head unit for suction/evacuation and the reverse after out of boost so no matter what the operation your engine is under it is always being evacuated.


    Have to get back to work so ask any questions in detail and I'll be back to answer them.


  2. #112
    Moderator, Retired -Ray-'s Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum Tracy. I think that's your name from scanning this thread. Please check out the intro forum so more folks can get to know you.

    Ray
    Rest in Peace Charlie!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RichsGreyGT View Post
    this site is hardcore modding central.

  3. #113
    Beyond Help WickedMom's Avatar
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    Hi Tracy! Glad you made it over here.




    Sent from my insanely great iPhone 4s using Tapatalk
    **RIP Shaun Finley**
    FUCK CANCER
    **RIP Charlie**

    '16 2SS NFG Camaro M6 NPP Mag
    Procharged, custom 4.5" heat exchanger, custom cam
    LT4 fuel system and top hardware, Stainless Works long tubes
    Weld wheels, Hoosier rear fatties, M&H front skinnies

  4. #114
    Senior Member LS1_Disciple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
    ...
    On a top mount PD blower, there is no intake manifold pressurized like a turbo or centri blower so the evac system is slightly easier. Simply (and do the drill mod on ALL FI applications or oil leaks may occur) install the oil separating catchcan between the vacuum barb on the blower snout and the valve cover vent, but a turbo or centri application you will want to evac at both boost and non boost operation.
    ...
    I think this is what I'm seeing (have not done drill mod yet). This is good info, Tracy. Now once again just to clarify, what size hole does a top mount blower need to drill? I've seen both 1/8 and 5/32, but I doubt that it matters much either way.

    09 G8 GXP M6 - TVS 2300, Solo HFCs, New Era CAI, LSR shifter, Russell SS brake lines, Pedders subframe bushings/front strut bushings, ZL1 pump, tuned by Reckart Performance Tuning, GForce axles, Hurst line-lock
    CAI - 358 rwhp 364 rwtq (Dynapack hub dyno) ; 13.76 @ 104.7mph (~2800 ft DA)
    2300/HFCs - 516 rwhp 501 rwtq (Dynapack hub dyno) ; 12.71 @ 111.4mph (~1500 ft DA and likely a slipping clutch)

  5. #115
    VIP Member Bill Brollier's Avatar
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    Hey Tracy, welcome. It was most informative chatting with you the other day, now having you on the forum is GRRRR8.
    REST IN PEACE CHARLIE......you left us too fast.......Nov. 14, 2013

  6. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
    Hey all, thanks Fflores for steering me in here.

    On a top mount PD blower, there is no intake manifold pressurized like a turbo or centri blower so the evac system is slightly easier. Simply (and do the drill mod on ALL FI applications or oil leaks may occur) install the oil separating catchcan between the vacuum barb on the blower snout and the valve cover vent, but a turbo or centri application you will want to evac at both boost and non boost operation.

    Glad you could join us Tracy!!

    a) So if we we have a Maggie and have one of your breathers as well - do we need to "block off" any barbs at all?

    b) With a Maggie and one of your catch cans - we only need to install your catchcan between the vacuum barb on the blower snout and the valve cover vent / and drill out the valve cover?

    Thanks.
    2009 G8 GT
    628.5 RWHP on gasoline​ ---> ARH Long Tubes 1 7/8" & full exhaust / Magnaflow Mid Muffler / Cherry Bomb Vortex Mufflers / Magnuson 1.9 / Overdrive "non-cog" pulley system / Ported blower base / 2.70" Pulley / LS3 rockers with Trunion upgrade / Trick Flow x255 cylinder heads / 8-Rib Pulley system / Innovator West 10% Balancer / DOD Delete / Lunati Lifters / Custom CTS-V Patrick G Cam Grind / Wiseco Forged Rods & Pistons / Injector Dynamics 85lbs / 4.25" Air Intake Tube / 102mm TB & MAF Tube / 102mm TPIS Throttle Body / LS7 MAF Card / ZL1 Fuel Pump / JMS Fuel Pump Booster / VaporWorx Controller / B&M Tranny Cooler with fan / Circle-D Heavy Duty Rebuild & 265mm triple Disc Billet Converter / Camaro Tranny Pan/ Eibach Lowering Springs / BMR Front & Rear Sway Bars, LCA's, Control Arms / DBA 4000xs Rotors / Hawks Ceramic Pads

  7. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1_Disciple View Post
    I think this is what I'm seeing (have not done drill mod yet). This is good info, Tracy. Now once again just to clarify, what size hole does a top mount blower need to drill? I've seen both 1/8 and 5/32, but I doubt that it matters much either way.
    How are you going to deal with the shavings? Drill then take it to a parts washer with solvent to rinse and dry?
    2009 G8 GT
    628.5 RWHP on gasoline​ ---> ARH Long Tubes 1 7/8" & full exhaust / Magnaflow Mid Muffler / Cherry Bomb Vortex Mufflers / Magnuson 1.9 / Overdrive "non-cog" pulley system / Ported blower base / 2.70" Pulley / LS3 rockers with Trunion upgrade / Trick Flow x255 cylinder heads / 8-Rib Pulley system / Innovator West 10% Balancer / DOD Delete / Lunati Lifters / Custom CTS-V Patrick G Cam Grind / Wiseco Forged Rods & Pistons / Injector Dynamics 85lbs / 4.25" Air Intake Tube / 102mm TB & MAF Tube / 102mm TPIS Throttle Body / LS7 MAF Card / ZL1 Fuel Pump / JMS Fuel Pump Booster / VaporWorx Controller / B&M Tranny Cooler with fan / Circle-D Heavy Duty Rebuild & 265mm triple Disc Billet Converter / Camaro Tranny Pan/ Eibach Lowering Springs / BMR Front & Rear Sway Bars, LCA's, Control Arms / DBA 4000xs Rotors / Hawks Ceramic Pads

  8. #118
    Senior Member LS1_Disciple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hflores3 View Post
    How are you going to deal with the shavings? Drill then take it to a parts washer with solvent to rinse and dry?
    I'm hoping it's not that complicated, but won't know for sure until I get the cover off and can get a good look at the baffling. Hopefully, blowing it out with the air compressor will be sufficient. I have no idea where the closest parts washer is around me.

    09 G8 GXP M6 - TVS 2300, Solo HFCs, New Era CAI, LSR shifter, Russell SS brake lines, Pedders subframe bushings/front strut bushings, ZL1 pump, tuned by Reckart Performance Tuning, GForce axles, Hurst line-lock
    CAI - 358 rwhp 364 rwtq (Dynapack hub dyno) ; 13.76 @ 104.7mph (~2800 ft DA)
    2300/HFCs - 516 rwhp 501 rwtq (Dynapack hub dyno) ; 12.71 @ 111.4mph (~1500 ft DA and likely a slipping clutch)

  9. #119
    Beyond Help WickedMom's Avatar
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    I am ending this group buy

    Thank you for the orders guys!

    Can a mod lock this thread? We can start another for the drill mod
    **RIP Shaun Finley**
    FUCK CANCER
    **RIP Charlie**

    '16 2SS NFG Camaro M6 NPP Mag
    Procharged, custom 4.5" heat exchanger, custom cam
    LT4 fuel system and top hardware, Stainless Works long tubes
    Weld wheels, Hoosier rear fatties, M&H front skinnies

  10. #120
    Senior Member LS1_Disciple's Avatar
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    Here's an appropriate thread to re-direct to - http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=33202

    09 G8 GXP M6 - TVS 2300, Solo HFCs, New Era CAI, LSR shifter, Russell SS brake lines, Pedders subframe bushings/front strut bushings, ZL1 pump, tuned by Reckart Performance Tuning, GForce axles, Hurst line-lock
    CAI - 358 rwhp 364 rwtq (Dynapack hub dyno) ; 13.76 @ 104.7mph (~2800 ft DA)
    2300/HFCs - 516 rwhp 501 rwtq (Dynapack hub dyno) ; 12.71 @ 111.4mph (~1500 ft DA and likely a slipping clutch)

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