Magnuson 1900 Project- over-drive Cog, Porting, & Cutting out restrictions....

[TCorzett]

Wow, seems like a big difference in the before/after photos. I'm really curious how the final numbers work-out... upping the flow could be a nice way to get a couple extra HP.

-Todd...

[Kermit]

Reminds me of what my blower looked like before putting it on. It is a shame that the ports are so constricted.

[blue-mayhem]

Very nice Rick... I bet that took some time to do. Can't wait to see what Doug thinks about it when it's all done. PS... The car is still running like a champ!!!

[locrzn#92]

Rick, with the porting do you think the cam will be big enough with the additional flow? The car runs great for the mods it has, should pick up a little et if it makes 30 additional hp. Good luck on the project. How much would it cost to send the parts to you for the porting?

[G8-4-Speed]

clean 1900 intercooler.jpgclean 1900 lower plenum.jpgdual 1900 methanol injection.jpgNo Boost.jpg1900 supercharger oulet.jpgported blower manifold.jpgStock MAF vs 4 inch.jpglifting 1900 intercooler plate.jpgstock G8 MAF vs 4 inch.jpgI got some catching up to do here.......

The nice thing about the intake porting is it will help out with any cam. The flow picks up great just at .300 lift so even with a stock cam with low lift this will help. I really want to get this done and eating asphalt before I speak out of turn of all what it is worth. It always seemed these superchargers were a little soft on power for the boost the make. Hopefully this will correct it as it is a big restriction. It is possible these lower intakes were made out of a universal casting to work on LS1-3 ports. Never really seen where anyone really complains about it? So thats probably why Magancharger hasn't changed it. I am sure it isn't free to re-tool and program a cnc to fix this.

The main purpose of this project was to drop boost so it wont climb too high with a 2.8 front and overdrive rear cog while still getting as much power as possible. Boost is a measure of restriction, builds heat, more belt slip issues, and offsets injector flow which means more demand from the fuel system.

As far as step by step instructions. To me, it is pretty straight forward but I'll see if i can walk thru this by memory.

1. Remove intake tube(disonnect MAF optional)
2. Disconnect coolant hose from intercooler pump on lower frame to drain supercharger
3. disconnect 2 ea coolant tubes from right front side of supercharger
4. unplug Throttle body and IAT wires
5. remove 4 ea vacuum hoses: one small at drivers side rear(my be plugged), two 3/8 on drivers side front, one 3/8 on passenger front
6. Unplug drivers side coil pack from harness, remove 4ea plug wires, remove 5ea bolts-remove coil pack (makes removing supercharger bolts easier.
7. disconnect fuel line. Need the thick metal 3/8" fuel line remover tool for fingers to release. insert tool, push line toward tool, then pull back on line to remove.
8. remove Pulley belt
9. unplug all 8 fuel injector. (remove or slide back grey clip, sqeeze to release lock, then pull)
10. Remove 6 ea fuel rail bolts(3ea side) and remove fuel rail and injectors(have a couple rages to catch the fuel)
11. Remove 2ea bolts on drivers side of supercharger holding the bypass actuator to supercharger(to remove bolt underneith)
12. Remove 10 ea bolts holding supercharger to cylinder heads. Works best to use a 1/4 drive ball-swivel, short 10mm socket, electric drill with short extension with apex-to-1/4" drive adpater. May have to break initial tq by hand.
13. Remove supercharger.

Lower intake
1. remove coolant hose housing at front of supercharger, 12mm socket, only one bolt. Remove housing
*2. loosen 2ea 14mm headed bolts at rear of supercharger holding jack-shaft bracket
*3. back off allen adjuster screw used to set belt tension-remove rear belt.
*4. remove 2ea rear and 2 ea front 14mm headed bolts holding jackshaft to blower manifold. -Remove Jackscrew
5. Remove 14ea 10mm headed bolts holding lower manifold to upper intercooler plate. -Remove lower manifold
***Don't loose round o-rings around bolt holes after removing the lower manifold.

Note: * denotes optional steps, if you can get the lower manifold off easier without removing the jackscrew, then go for it. I had to change the rear pullies anyways and was easier to remove the 14 bolts so I pull the jackscrew.

I know pictures would help out a bunch but my lack of time kind of keeps me from doing so....

If I missed anything, please add to it. Your going to need lots of carb spray to clean up the intercooler if you are not running a methanol boost cooler. The intercooler plate pulls away from the supercharger, no bolts. Just have to work around the IAT sensor wire.


Blue-Mayhem, glad your car is still running like a beast!!! Keep that Meth tank full......

You want to send the lower plate? I'll port it for $230 if anyone wants it done..... Just let me get thru this project befoer gutting any more manifolds. If I going am stand behind something and charge for it, I want to know more about the results..... I would just need the gaskets and a picture of each cylinder head with the gaskets in place. I need to see the offset to know which side of the gasket to get close to and stay away from. It doens't have to be an exact match to the head to get the results.

[evl.346]

How important would it be to get all ports exactly the same size and flow?

Keep up the good work

Might be interested once you have finished and have results to back it up.

Cheers

[Kermit]

I thought there was some kind of glue or something that helped hold the blower together. So your saying that only bolts keep this together? Cool. Do you have the torque numbers for putting it back together?

[G8-4-Speed]

All the 10mm headed bolts should be 108 in/lbs tq. The blower plate has a O-ring between the lower and upper manifold.

[locrzn#92]

Maybe I missed it, but did you dyno prior to starting this project?

[G8-4-Speed]

No dyno but we have been to the track several times on street tires so we have a decent baseline. The car will go 123 MPH in the heat on its street tires if you can walk it out of the hole decent. It should go 126 or better when we are done if it will hold the track and it has enough fuel. We are still milking the stock pump for all it is worth and it hasn't let us down yet. I have been 126mph in a G8 on a stock pump with boost before....