Yea from all the work i have done from starting off to now its always been about the right tool or trick you learned after you done half a dozen of them lol
Yea from all the work i have done from starting off to now its always been about the right tool or trick you learned after you done half a dozen of them lol
2009 SBM G8 GT
2007 Suzuki GSX-R 1000
I gotta tell you though, holding the flywheel to take that crank bolt out is easier said than done. At least for mine it was. The first time that crank bolt was removed from the factory install, I swore I must have gotten the "extra torque special" because no amount of technique on holding that fly wheel in place was good enough to counter the rotation based on the amount of torque required to pop that bolt loose.
...unlesssssss of course you happen to have that GM spec'ed tool that's designed specifically to fit in that hole and hold multiple fly wheel teeth.
2008 GT - 97000 miles and counting
VMS 1.5 cam / CNC ported LS3 heads / LS7 lifters / Rotofab CF CAI / SLP LT Headers / Corsa / VMS Tune
Maverick Man CF hood / 20" Breyton GTS
what is the reason for the longer bolt? Why can't you just use a new bolt, like the ARP, torque it down, and call it a day?
The longer bolt is to press the balancer on. Another trick is to heat the inside hub of the balancer and it will slide all the way on like butter.
2008 Liquid Red Pontiac G8 Sport/Premium - Adams Polishes - American Racing Headers - ARP - BMR Fabrication - Circle D Specialties - COMP Cams - Crazy Paul - Dynojet - Earl's - Flowmaster - Fuel Air Spark Technology - G2 - GFORCE 1320 - Greg Weld - HP Tuners - JBA - Lingenfelter - Maverick Man Carbon - Metco Motorsports Solutions - Mickey Thompson - M&H - Mike Norris Motorsports - NGK - Pace Performance - Pedders USA - Powerbond - PSI - Russell - SBX Performance - SJM Manufacturing - SPOHN Performance - Tony Mamo - Vararam - Vector Motorsports - Wretched Motorsports - 470 RWHP 427 TQ - Engine Tune By Patrick G