Site Sponsors & Vendors
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: DIY: install 160 t stat

  1. #1
    Senior Member Joeygr8gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    417
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default DIY: install 160 t stat

    Ordered one and look at pointer online can't find any for our car? Any step by step instructions and pointers for changing this
    2009.5 g8 gt
    kooks LT headers, hi flow cats, x pipe, corsa cat back, vararam CAI, ported TB/intake, slp underdrive pulley, billet catch can, qtp cut outs, kaltech tune, camaro 20s,
    350hp...12.60 @ 109.8 mph

  2. #2
    Addicted Member 95_9C1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    560
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    why would you want to change the t-stat ?
    __________________
    CALIFORNIA - 2009 White Hot G8 GXP #464 M6 - MODS: some

  3. #3
    Senior Member oesman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    261
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    A lot of people like to run a lower temp t-valve because it can help with ECT (engine coolant temperature) especially in combination with an EWP (electric water pump) with a drilled out t-valve. With that setup on some cars you may need to disable SES code(s). I'm curious about it too for the G8, I did this on my f-body and liked it. Geforce here in Houston seems to recommend it as part of their "packages" for most GMs they tune, but it's probably easy enough to do on your own.

    I'll pulled info from manual to show the procedure, here is what the manual says:

    1. Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery.

    2. Ensure engine is below 50°C before removing the coolant pressure cap.

    3. Remove the radiator air baffle and deflector.

    4. Remove the air intake duct.

    5. Raise and support the vehicle.

    6. Drain the coolant into a suitable container.

    7. Lower the vehicle.

    8. Release the retaining hose clamp and detach the hose from the thermostat housing end.

    9. Remove the thermostat housing to water pump retaining bolts, and remove thermostat housing.

    10. If the housing is to be replaced, discard the O-ring.

    11. Place thermostat housing in a soft jaw vice.

    12. Press and rotate the springs of the thermostat to release it from the thermostat housing.

    13. Remove the old thermostat from the thermostat housing.

    14. Place the new thermostat assembly into the thermostat housing.

    15. Install the thermostat by rotating and locking it into the thermostat housing.

    16. Ensure all mating surfaces are thoroughly cleaned, using only a fine abrasive material.

    17. Install the thermostat housing.

    18. Install the thermostat housing to water pump retaining bolts and tighten to 14 Nm (124 lb in).

    19. Install the hose to the thermostat housing by opening the retaining hose clamp and securing it over the hose.

    20. Install the radiator air baffle and deflector. Refer to Radiator Air Upper Baffle and Deflector Replacement.

    21. Install the air intake duct.

    22. Fill the cooling system.

    23. Connect the battery ground cable to the battery.

    24. Inspect cooling system for leaks.
    Last edited by oesman; 03-20-2012 at 04:09 PM.

  4. #4
    VIP Member vert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    2,520
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Joeygr8gt View Post
    Ordered one and look at pointer online can't find any for our car? Any step by step instructions and pointers for changing this
    I did not do all of the steps listed above. You do not need to drain all of the coolant. Make sure the car is cool. Remove the radiator cap. Remove both of the thermostat housing bolts and pull housing away to expose thermostat. Make sure you notice the direction the thermstat is facing, remove old stat and place new stat into its location. Place housing back on and tighten the bolts to 11ft lbs. Fill the radiator up with coolant, start the car with the heater on high. While car is running, squeeze the radiator house to help burp out an air pockets and keep the radiator full.
    2008 MGM GT. Patrick G spec'd 222/226 .597”/.605” 115LSA +3 cam, Ported TB, Ported Manifold, 25% PB UDP, 180* Tstat, Vararam w/HSRK, Kooks 1 3/4" LT Headers, X w/cats and muffs, GXP Diffuser, B Splitter, 6000K HID's, 6.0L Badges, Tinted Side,Rear Markers and Tails, 15% Window Tint, Blackedout Chrome, Ghost Stripes, G2 Red Calipers

  5. #5
    Senior Member oesman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    261
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vert View Post
    I did not do all of the steps listed above. You do not need to drain all of the coolant. Make sure the car is cool. Remove the radiator cap. Remove both of the thermostat housing bolts and pull housing away to expose thermostat. Make sure you notice the direction the thermstat is facing, remove old stat and place new stat into its location. Place housing back on and tighten the bolts to 11ft lbs. Fill the radiator up with coolant, start the car with the heater on high. While car is running, squeeze the radiator house to help burp out an air pockets and keep the radiator full.
    Cool I was just posting instructions from the manual, I'm sure there are better ways. They want you to take half the car apart to change headlight bulbs according to that manual, instead of just popping the wheels off =D.

  6. #6
    VIP Member vert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    2,520
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oesman View Post
    Cool I was just posting instructions from the manual, I'm sure there are better ways. They want you to take half the car apart to change headlight bulbs according to that manual, instead of just popping the wheels off =D.
    I figured it was from the manual since it goes overboard on some repairs. Some like to do it by the book. I'm glad you posted it up, the more how to post we get, the better off we all are.
    2008 MGM GT. Patrick G spec'd 222/226 .597”/.605” 115LSA +3 cam, Ported TB, Ported Manifold, 25% PB UDP, 180* Tstat, Vararam w/HSRK, Kooks 1 3/4" LT Headers, X w/cats and muffs, GXP Diffuser, B Splitter, 6000K HID's, 6.0L Badges, Tinted Side,Rear Markers and Tails, 15% Window Tint, Blackedout Chrome, Ghost Stripes, G2 Red Calipers

  7. #7
    Senior Member Joeygr8gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    417
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    what coolant is everyone using?
    2009.5 g8 gt
    kooks LT headers, hi flow cats, x pipe, corsa cat back, vararam CAI, ported TB/intake, slp underdrive pulley, billet catch can, qtp cut outs, kaltech tune, camaro 20s,
    350hp...12.60 @ 109.8 mph

  8. #8
    VIP Member vert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    2,520
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I just use dex-cool. You can buy it already mixed at 50/50 or concentrated. If you by it concentrated, make sure you use distilled water when you mix it. Once I am done with my cam install I am going to add waterwetter to my dex-cool.
    2008 MGM GT. Patrick G spec'd 222/226 .597”/.605” 115LSA +3 cam, Ported TB, Ported Manifold, 25% PB UDP, 180* Tstat, Vararam w/HSRK, Kooks 1 3/4" LT Headers, X w/cats and muffs, GXP Diffuser, B Splitter, 6000K HID's, 6.0L Badges, Tinted Side,Rear Markers and Tails, 15% Window Tint, Blackedout Chrome, Ghost Stripes, G2 Red Calipers

  9. #9
    Senior Member Joeygr8gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    417
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    went to change it out and it didn't fit the housing. are there different sizes?
    2009.5 g8 gt
    kooks LT headers, hi flow cats, x pipe, corsa cat back, vararam CAI, ported TB/intake, slp underdrive pulley, billet catch can, qtp cut outs, kaltech tune, camaro 20s,
    350hp...12.60 @ 109.8 mph

  10. #10
    VIP Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Monroe. OH
    Posts
    3,427
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    The thermostat for a 2009.5 is different than the thermostat for a 2009. They changed the water pump design. The 2009.5 thermostat is slightly larger in diameter.

    Rotohack 102 intake - 102 MAF - TPIS 102 TB - TVS1900 ported & plated w 8 rib 2.5" front + OD rear
    PnP Interchiller - RCR ported heads - RCR Lunati 219/231 113+1 - Forged Bottom End
    ARH 2" LT headers - Solo 3" CB - MT DRs + M&H FRs on Weld RT-S
    CTS-V fuel w Vaporworx - FAST 85s - Alkycontrol meth M15 + M10 - RCR tune
    9.75@139.2 ? rwhp ? rwtq

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •