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Thread: Plastic fuel line connectors- how to remove?

  1. #21
    Moderator, Retired -Ray-'s Avatar
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    If I remember correctly, Pete had trouble with his too.
    Rest in Peace Charlie!

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  2. #22
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    I'm trying to decide now. I was able to get the nipple piece out of the connector now that I had the room to use the disconnect tool. So it seems like it will still hold fine. But if it ever had to come back off in the future, do I stand a chance of ever getting it off with the tabs broken off. What can I use to repair it with?

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  3. #23
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Maybe just replace the line section?

    Mine was a reeeeal pain.

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    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
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    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  4. #24
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    I've ordered the tool mentioned above (en46843), just so I'll have it in the future. But I don't think it will work on the connector with the tabs broken off. So I also got the Dorman repair kit below and a compression union. The Dorman repair fitting has a clip that is easy enough to remove without special tools. I've tested it with success on the broken nipple/post.

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  5. #25
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Wikoff View Post
    I've ordered the tool mentioned above (en46843), just so I'll have it in the future. But I don't think it will work on the connector with the tabs broken off. So I also got the Dorman repair kit below and a compression union. The Dorman repair fitting has a clip that is easy enough to remove without special tools. I've tested it with success on the broken nipple/post.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C...op_mb_pd_title
    That's pretty slick. Some sort of clamps needed for the brass double barb?

    Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  6. #26
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    If I used the barb, I'd heat it and put a hose clamp or zip tie on it, though neither was supplied. I'm going to use a compression union instead. I think they are more secure, and easier to uncouple if needed.
    09 G8 GT SRM Premium Sport Sunroof



    HSV GTS Triple Gauge Pod, GXP Rear Sway Bar and Diffuser, HSV SuperSport Steering wheel, SOLO axle-backs, Magnaflow cats, Red Hot Shift Knob, Auto-dim Mirror, Hood Vent Mod, Removed Intake Cover, Rotofab CAI, Cortex, Infinity door speakers, MTX Re-Q5, Pioneer Amp & RF Sub, LED lows & fogs, Spyder tails, Power Slot rotors, Wagner Thermoquiet pads, Chrome lug covers, Glovebox light,

    Winter-wear:
    Bremmerkraft BR09 winter wheels, Weathertech floor liners, oil pan heater

    Admin: www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com

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