2011 Kona Blue 5.0 Auto -->(Livernois 93Tune and DR only-11.880 @ 118.11, 1.827) - Lund Racing Tune - BOSS Intake - JPC LTs&OTA, O/R-X, GT500muffs - CircleD 4500 - DSS shaft - DA QA1s - J&M LCAs - JPC UCA/BMR mount - 295/50/16 MT DRs - JLT Catch Can (awaiting install UPR K, TSS oil pump gears)
'08 Black on Black G8GT--> 12.166 @ 113.13, 1.723 Bolt 0ns and Converter --Gone, but not forgotten.--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/gr_devil.gif
Plastic Cuttin' Bad Ass!
Sorry, I was asking that part of the OP.
I hear you on the credit card.....
Yeah after just putting wheels, tint and clear vinyl and now a stainless refrig and range on my Discover card I called them to have them send me a new prototype water cooled card which stays cooler keeping you from burning a hole in your pocket... The back pack cooling unit will take some getting used to...
Oops... Hijacked...
2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!
I'll do a detailed install thread next week,after I work out Monday..off for 5 days.
I did install the diff bushings from pedders. To take them out..I took a starter punch and drove it between the bushing and the housing. When I did that,it pulled the outer metal bushing housing together,which caused it to be smaller. It then just pushed out with my hand. The pedders bushing is a 3 piece....2 halves,and a 1 piece metal hollow rod. Just put in the 2 halves and slide in the metal bushing.
gone but not forgotten
1.698 60' 11.946@113.66 BEST 60'....1.650
ENGINE....ls3 block,mahle pistons,forged rods,cloyes timing chain/tensioner,stock crank,clevite bearings,arp bolts through out.
VALVETRAINl92 heads(821casting) with lightweight exhaust valves/stainless intake valves,patriot gold dual springs/titanium locks/retainers,230/240 .595/.605 cam
EXHAUSTkooks mid length headers,no cats,magnaflow mip-pipe/resonators,no rear mufflers.
MISC..3.27 gears,spohn trailing arms,VMR V710'S....245/45-18 FRONT,275/40-18 REAR. CIRCLE D 3K
for now....'95 mystic teal ta,slightly built lt1,cam,headers,intake, tb,every suspension mod,c5 brakes,lowered,3.90 gears,corbeau seats,6-point cage,ZR1 rims.
Excellent! Thanks!
I want this diff......
2008 G8 GT
12.03@118.3 on 7.5psi (Pump Gas no Meth, Stock Wheels/Tires)
449rwhp/521rwtq (through the stock mufflers)
11.00@129.5 on 14psi (Race Gas, Slicks)
637rwhp/682rwtq (magnaflow catback added)
Stock Motor, Stock Tranny, Stock Stall, Stock Gear, Stock Weight+ some
Only mods to the car so far:
- Magnaflow Catback
- HOB Turbo Kit
Any comments on the new gears?
Like it more now, or the way it was before?
2011 Kona Blue 5.0 Auto -->(Livernois 93Tune and DR only-11.880 @ 118.11, 1.827) - Lund Racing Tune - BOSS Intake - JPC LTs&OTA, O/R-X, GT500muffs - CircleD 4500 - DSS shaft - DA QA1s - J&M LCAs - JPC UCA/BMR mount - 295/50/16 MT DRs - JLT Catch Can (awaiting install UPR K, TSS oil pump gears)
'08 Black on Black G8GT--> 12.166 @ 113.13, 1.723 Bolt 0ns and Converter --Gone, but not forgotten.--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/gr_devil.gif
Plastic Cuttin' Bad Ass!
I haven't had the opportunity to really put many miles on it yet. I still haven't gotten the car retuned for the gears. The flash cables should be here next week. I think it's alittle confused..it wants to bounce of the rev limiter going into 2nd and 3rd. Now 4th gear pulls hard,the front end is still up in the air.
Just for kicks..I held it down the interstate...the speedo was showing 171...
I know it wasn't going that fast. It was still pulling good..I just let out cause it was windy...kinda got alittle squirelly(sp).
Turning real sharp in a parking lot,going real slow...it does that inside tire sliding like a 4*4.
gone but not forgotten
1.698 60' 11.946@113.66 BEST 60'....1.650
ENGINE....ls3 block,mahle pistons,forged rods,cloyes timing chain/tensioner,stock crank,clevite bearings,arp bolts through out.
VALVETRAINl92 heads(821casting) with lightweight exhaust valves/stainless intake valves,patriot gold dual springs/titanium locks/retainers,230/240 .595/.605 cam
EXHAUSTkooks mid length headers,no cats,magnaflow mip-pipe/resonators,no rear mufflers.
MISC..3.27 gears,spohn trailing arms,VMR V710'S....245/45-18 FRONT,275/40-18 REAR. CIRCLE D 3K
for now....'95 mystic teal ta,slightly built lt1,cam,headers,intake, tb,every suspension mod,c5 brakes,lowered,3.90 gears,corbeau seats,6-point cage,ZR1 rims.
If my calculation are correct (which I wouldn't bet my life on) you were still doing around 150 mph. That's still hauling ass!
Ok....here goes..
Put the car on lift and remove the tires.
Take off just the calipers and set it to the side...I didn't do the remove the spline nut thing GM recommends.
Unplug the abs sensor
Now with a 18mm socket and wrench...take out all 4 of the bushing bolts on the inside of the hub(the suspension linkage). All but 1 has just a standard bolt hole. 1 of them has a slight elongated hole for adjustments. The nut will leave a indention where it was..so put it back in the same spot when done.
Now have a helper take a pry bar and gently put it between the diff and the big round ends of the axles. At the same time you pull on the hub section,have him pry out on the axles....they just pop out. Let them just hang there. Let the hub assembly hang by the emergency cable. Do the other side.
Now for the drive shaft. I took a large wrench and slide it over the ears of the drive shaft(you'll figure it out when doing this) to keep it from turning as you take out the 3 bolts holding it on. Let it hang there.
Unhook the exhaust from the 2 hangers right behind the diff.
Reach above the diff and unplug the breather tube.
Now take out the 3 bushing bolts holding the diff. It shouldn't fall. If it does it'll rest on the exhaust. Now pull the rear down first. Then pull the front down till it just clears the mounts. Have your helper with one hand pull the exhaust down,while using the other to assist you. Now while pulling the rear down,twist the diff,so as to pull it down and thru the exhaust. It should just fit thru. For some reason...no fluid was spilt while doing this. Set the diff down...take a break....now just reverse the process and put the new in.
If you do the pedders bushings....you'll have to push the diff back in the holders real hard...there TIGHT!
Once installed you might have to take alittle of the fluid out of your old one to top off the new one. I had one of those cheap hand pumps that fit oil bottles...
I started this at 8:00am...at 10:30am I was driving down the street.
Hope this helps some....my way isn't the GM way...but it's faster...2.5 hours vs. about 7 by the book.
Any questions? just ask.
gone but not forgotten
1.698 60' 11.946@113.66 BEST 60'....1.650
ENGINE....ls3 block,mahle pistons,forged rods,cloyes timing chain/tensioner,stock crank,clevite bearings,arp bolts through out.
VALVETRAINl92 heads(821casting) with lightweight exhaust valves/stainless intake valves,patriot gold dual springs/titanium locks/retainers,230/240 .595/.605 cam
EXHAUSTkooks mid length headers,no cats,magnaflow mip-pipe/resonators,no rear mufflers.
MISC..3.27 gears,spohn trailing arms,VMR V710'S....245/45-18 FRONT,275/40-18 REAR. CIRCLE D 3K
for now....'95 mystic teal ta,slightly built lt1,cam,headers,intake, tb,every suspension mod,c5 brakes,lowered,3.90 gears,corbeau seats,6-point cage,ZR1 rims.