My backup camera install
There are many different backup camera options out there and ways to install them, but I haven't seen too many threads on the subject of installing them so I thought I'd share my install that I just did with a bunch of pics.
Here's a list of the parts I used:
Boyo VTL275HD Camera (this is a chrome frame, if you want black get the 375 model)
Boyo VTX100 Wireless Transmitter/Receiver
Rear Aux video cable (learn how to make one in this thread: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=13238)
Miscellaneous tape, wire terminals, zip ties, etc.
Here's a picture of the major parts:
The camera comes with a short attached cable with a small 4-pin connector, an extension cable, and an adapter cable to make your power hookup and video connection with.
The transmitter has a video input (and audio if you want) and a power cable. The receiver has a outputs and a power cable, but also has an option for an aux video input that would display whenever the backup camera is off. I have nothing to use here now, but am saving it for the touchscreen iPod interface that will hopefully be available soon. Using this wireless transmitter/receiver also saves me from running the video cable all the way to the head unit from the trunk.
The first thing I did was strip the trunk of all it's carpeting and liners. This is pretty straight forward, just a bunch of pins to remove and couple screwed hooks.
Once the license plate is removed, you need to remove the screw retainers and a plug that will be used for the cable. The screw retainers come out easy, just squeeze the three clips on the inside.
The cable on the plate frame has two grommets already on it, the small one is perfectly sized for the hole that you removed the plug from, while the bigger one can just be snipped off.
The frame is held in place by recessed stainless hex bolts, and to make it look better I filed off the writing and then buffed it with a Dremel tool
It comes with four bolts, but I didn't want to drill my trunk lid so I shortened two of the bolts so that they'd fit between the plate and the trunk lid. I tested it and it's secure enough with just the top two bolts.
I secured the wire to the frame with tape and wrapped to prevent chafing where it would run along the plate.
I already had some closed-cell foam on the back of the plate to prevent any rattles. With a utility knife i just cut a channel in the foam for the cable to run to the hole in the trunk lid.
I then taped the cable in place along the back of the plate. Though not shown, I also taped the nuts to prevent them rubbing on the paint.
To seal the holes left by the screw retainers, I covered them with electrical tape, but cut an x shaped slit in the one that the bolt would pass through.
Here's the inside once the plate is secured. I just zip tied the cable to the plate light harness.
Next was the tricky part of getting the extension cable through the rubber boot. I disconnected the plate light harness from inside the trunk and then pulled the boot out. Like this I was eventually able to get wire through the boot. I then snaked a wire through the trunk lid and used it to pull the extension cable to the connection. The other end of the extension cable I fed back into the trunk, put the boot back in, and then ran the wire through the passage at the top of the trunk to the driver's side. I eventually pulled it out near the unused connector for the parking sensors.
At the parking sensor connector, I extracted the green and black wires from the connector. The green wire is the reverse light circuit, and black is ground. If I had the right terminals I could have probably left the pins in place, but I pulled them out so I could get spade connectors on them.
At this point I soldered the power wires for the camera and wireless transmitter together and then crimped a female spade connector on them. I did the same for the two ground wires.
Connect the power wire to the green wire, and the grounds to the black wire. This ensures that the camera and transmitter only come on when in reverse, and allows the auto-switching function of the receiver to work. I covered the connections with heat shrink tubing and wrapped them in electrical tape to prevent them from touching and shorting out. I mounted the transmitter with some industrial strength Velcro just because it was the easiest solution. The transmitter weighs almost nothing so it isn't going to go anywhere. You can now plug the power and video cables into the transmitter, and then bundle all the excess wire out of sight. I just stuck the excess down in the hole that's right there.
You're now done in the trunk and can move to the passenger's seat. I've dropped the glove box a few times before so it was easy, but in case you haven't this thread goes over the process: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=16705.
Plug your VIM/VIP video cable into the head unit now. I didn't take a picture after I did, but here is where it goes:
I mounter the receiver with a zip tie on the bottom through an unused hole, and more Velcro on the top. Connect the video out cable to the cable you just attached to the head unit.
I got power and ground for the receiver from the 12V accessory plug that I removed when I installed the cubby in the center stack trim. I just crimped male spade terminals on the wire and stuck them into the connector. If you still have the 12V outlet installed, you could tap into the cigarette lighter plug a little further in. I've already used this for my GPS and iPod, as you can see the two red wires coming down.
Now that everything is connected, it would be a good time to test it before putting all your trim panels back. Make sure Rear Aux is enabled on the head unit and then press the Aux button to bring it up. At this point my screen is blank because I have nothing plugged into the aux input of the receiver. When I shift into reverse though, the camera image pops up. Shift back to park or drive and the screen goes blank again.
Now you can put your dash and trunk back together.
Here's a couple pictures of the camera installed:
Like I said at the beginning, there is more than one way to do this, but this worked for me and I'm happy with the results. Massachusetts law doesn't allow any frames that obstruct any writing on the plate, so this camera's slim design is perfect for this while a lot of cameras out there would be covering the "Massachusetts". I still need to get VIM, but I generally back up using the mirrors mostly anyway. The camera would just be for the last foot or so as I'm inching slowly at just a few mph. Once I have another video input, then the VIM would really be necessary.
Any questions or comments?
EDIT: October 16, 2011 Update
Well I keep tweaking my setup, but finally finished it today. A couple weeks ago, I integrated the factory backup cam harness that I bought from Crazy Paul. Today I added a remote controlled relay that allows me to turn on the camera even when I'm not in reverse.
The first thing I did was modify the license plate retainers I had removed the first time around, and put them back in. I didn't want to permanently modify them at first in case I had to go back to just the plate with no camera, but I bought two new ones from C.P. for a couple bucks in case that ever happens. To modify them I just drilled out the hole larger to accept the bolt, and cut off the tabs so that the nut could sit flush.
Next I swapped out the lower nuts on the plate with thinner jam nuts, and trimmed the bolts even further. I then redid the foam on the back of the plate.
Where I had tapped in for power at the reverse object sensor connector I extracted the final brown/blue wire and then cut off all three pins as close as possible. I then put a new three pin connector on from a JEGS connector kit I have. This brown/blue wire is ignition hot, so I was anticipating my later relay mod that I'll get to below.
The new Holden trunk lid harness I bought is shown here: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.p...l=1#post401299. It is an 8 wire harness, but I only need 6. On the camera end is a small green 6 pin connector that I removed. I then soldered the end from the Boyo extension cable onto four of the wires. The extra two wires I just shrink wrapped the ends and hid them in the harness.
I swapped out the connectors for the plate bulbs because although very similar, they were slightly different. On the other end of the harness, I removed the large gray 8 pin connector, because there would be nothing for it to plug into. I removed the harness plug off the existing harness, and after crimping new pins on the two wires for the plate bulbs (brown/white and one of the black ones), put it on the new harness. I then put a 4 pin connector on the same wires I soldered the camera plug onto the other end. The extra two wires I just folded out of the way.
I re-ran the Boyo extension cable along the lower trunk lip this time along the existing body harness. I cut it to length so I wouldn't have all the excess coiled up, and then put a 4 pin connector on it.
I hooked everything back up, with temporary connections on the green and black wires back at the 3 pin harness I installed in place of the reverse object sensor connector. That brings me today.
I had bought a mini SPDT relay from Painless Wiring, and a Logisys RM01 remote controlled relay. On the SPDT, the normally closed contact is hooked up to the backup light circuit, powering the camera as normal. If I energize the relay, it closes a contact hooked up to an ignition voltage source, so I can have the camera on whenever I want. To energize the relay, I have a separate relay that is controlled by a remote key fob.
If anyone wants to do this, I could put together a wiring diagram of what I did, but I basically ended up with a harness that looked like this. There's a 3 pin connector that plugs into that reverse object sensor connector replacement, a connector that plugs into the Boyo extension cable, and also the power and video plugs for the wireless video transmitter. The blue wire is the antenna for the remote relay.
Here's what it looks like with everything installed in place. Last time I had my trunk apart I relocated the OnStar/Bluetooth box so that's what you see on top of the wheel arch.
Here's a quick video that shows the operation of this new relay. When in rear aux, the camera automatically will pop up whenever I shift into reverse. If I want to see it in a different gear, push the button on the key fob and I have the camera display again. (Note, my screen goes black because I have nothing normally hooked up to the Rear Aux.)
I realize this install is way more complicated than it needs to be, but it's the way I want it. If you aren't comfortable with wiring, it may be more difficult for you, but if you have a good understanding of electricity and have the right tools it's not too bad. You don't have to do it this way, but this may give you some ideas on how to do your own project, which is what this forum is all about. Thanks again to Crazy Paul for getting me the parts I needed to complete this.
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Originally Posted by I12XLR8
2009 WH GT Prem/Sprt w/Sunroof, Trunk liner, Custom-fitted Sunshade, Sony GPS, LED Rear License Plate Lights. X-PEL Headlight Protectors, Osram Nightbreaker Low- Beams, Redline armrest cover, Raceramp Flatstoppers, Led Reverse Lights, Led Taillights, Led Foglights, Genuine HSV Seat Belt Shouder Pads, Commodore VF rear window interior sunshade direct from AU. No Performance Mods, maybe someday just get a 480HP Crate Engine from GMPerformance.
