Setting up a system from scratch - need advice (yes, I'm really buying)

[00 Trans Ram]

OK, I'm a racing guy who has been more concerned with going fast and turning corners than with stereos. Never really took the time to learn. But, kids are here, racecar is sold, and I drive 100 miles per day. Oh, and at least 1 rear speaker (perhaps the door and the sub) are buzzing, so it's killing me to listen to music or talk shows (gotta love XM).

Few questions:

- When you put regular 2-way speakers into the doors, do you disconnect the front tweeters?

- Do you just run the door speakers on the stock wires, or do you wire them up to an amp?

- How important is it to stick with the same manufacturer and speaker line for the door/center/rear speakers? I'm assuming that subs and amps are open.

- When you stick a couple of subs in the rear (probably do a spare-tire well installation), I've seen that people disconnect the factory subs; has anyone replaced those with something like a 6"x8" speaker for additional sound?
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Here's the system that I was contemplating. I know that the Polk DB651 speakers seem to be the most popular, and I haven't ruled them out. But, I was thinking of using the following components:

Infinity Kappa 62.9i - door speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_108629I...ppa-62-9i.html

Infinity Kappa 42.9i - dash-mounted center speaker (the stock size is 3.5", but I read that 4" will fit with some modification - I can do some pretty good fabrication)
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_108429I...ppa-42-9i.html

Infinity Kappa 682.9cf - rear deck speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_1086829...a-682-9cf.html

Kenwood KAC 7205 - 2-channel amp
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC...-KAC-7205.html

Infinity 1062w - 10" subs (2 of them, monuted in the spare tire area)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108106...ity-1062w.html

This package gets me $0.08 under my budget - hahaha! Any suggestions or criticisms? Am I wasting money, or what? Like I said - I'm a n00b when it comes to audio.

(However, if anyone wants to know brake compounds, alignment settings, and tire pressures to help a stock G8GT keep up with a BMW E46 M3 on a road course, I'm your guy!! Or, if you're building a Trans Am that will embarass Vipers Comp Coupes and ZR-1 Corvettes, I can do that too!)

[bubblyjock]

Infinity is good stuff! But I will start the comments out with saying Crutchfield overcharges out the ass. In order you could get your equipment for: $77, $70, $80, $127, $65 that is $419 compared to $700. It is your choice if you want to shop there, I will say they have amazing customer service, but really that is what forums are for, our time is free!

[00 Trans Ram]

Thanks for the advice! Where did you get those prices?

Another question:

- Are component speakers really worth the time/money? I accept that they are better, but without sound deadening and at interstate speeds, will it be noticeable?

[Belo]

OK, I'm a racing guy who has been more concerned with going fast and turning corners than with stereos. Never really took the time to learn. But, kids are here, racecar is sold, and I drive 100 miles per day. Oh, and at least 1 rear speaker (perhaps the door and the sub) are buzzing, so it's killing me to listen to music or talk shows (gotta love XM).

Few questions:

- When you put regular 2-way speakers into the doors, do you disconnect the front tweeters?

-yes, but i would suggest buying a component system

- Do you just run the door speakers on the stock wires, or do you wire them up to an amp?

-you can do either, an amp will give you more power and louder music with a little more thump, but it's not crucial. without an amp, your headunit is powering the speakers just like any bookshelf of home theater system

- How important is it to stick with the same manufacturer and speaker line for the door/center/rear speakers? I'm assuming that subs and amps are open.

-not at all impt, but sometimes for ease of use and similar specs it's a good idea. you dont want different levels of sensitivity, wattage etc. mixed throughout the car

- When you stick a couple of subs in the rear (probably do a spare-tire well installation), I've seen that people disconnect the factory subs; has anyone replaced those with something like a 6"x8" speaker for additional sound?

-not necessary as the factory subs are only bass and the 6.5 coaxials in the rear doors will do just fine. technically sound shouldn't come from the rear and car companies are just now realizing this. Just leave them connected for a little added bass unless you're powering your door speakers with an amp. then just disconnect them.
----------

Here's the system that I was contemplating. I know that the Polk DB651 speakers seem to be the most popular, and I haven't ruled them out. But, I was thinking of using the following components:

Infinity Kappa 62.9i - door speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_108629I...ppa-62-9i.html

Infinity Kappa 42.9i - dash-mounted center speaker (the stock size is 3.5", but I read that 4" will fit with some modification - I can do some pretty good fabrication)
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_108429I...ppa-42-9i.html

Infinity Kappa 682.9cf - rear deck speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_1086829...a-682-9cf.html

Kenwood KAC 7205 - 2-channel amp
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC...-KAC-7205.html

Infinity 1062w - 10" subs (2 of them, monuted in the spare tire area)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108106...ity-1062w.html

This package gets me $0.08 under my budget - hahaha! Any suggestions or criticisms? Am I wasting money, or what? Like I said - I'm a n00b when it comes to audio.

(However, if anyone wants to know brake compounds, alignment settings, and tire pressures to help a stock G8GT keep up with a BMW E46 M3 on a road course, I'm your guy!! Or, if you're building a Trans Am that will embarass Vipers Comp Coupes and ZR-1 Corvettes, I can do that too!)

-infinitis are nice. i've narrowed it down to them or polk. polk usually wins the battle because for they're cheaper and just as good as infiniti. some complain about harsh tweeters in the kapps too

typed some responses for you

[00 Trans Ram]

Thanks, Bob. I was wondering about the tweeters. One of the things I liked about the Infinity's is that they had a harder tweeter material, which is supposed to give crisper highs. But, I should probably go listen to them (or similar) to compare. I might like the softer ones...

I think I'll probably take your other advice (no rear speakers, no amp for door/center speakers). I'll have to look at component. I saw the thread about the Polk db6501 components in the front door. That might be my choice.

[Habibus]

I had some infinity kappa components in my Bonneville. What people say about the highs is correct. They were way overdone and tinny. The speakers themselves just sounded like crap. Tried it with an amp and without. I was unimpressed for what they cost.

To people with the Polks, Do you have to turn up the stereo louder with them to get the same amount of volume with the stocks, once you undo the center speaker? I am sick of my wife's Saturn Aura having a better stereo than my g8.

[JoshHefnerX]

OK, I'm a racing guy who has been more concerned with going fast and turning corners than with stereos. Never really took the time to learn. But, kids are here, racecar is sold, and I drive 100 miles per day. Oh, and at least 1 rear speaker (perhaps the door and the sub) are buzzing, so it's killing me to listen to music or talk shows (gotta love XM).

Few questions:

- When you put regular 2-way speakers into the doors, do you disconnect the front tweeters?
If you are going to do co-axials in the doors then yes you should disconnect the dash tweeters. Components are really a step up if you have the $$$ though.

- Do you just run the door speakers on the stock wires, or do you wire them up to an amp?
You can run them w/o an amp, but I believe that the stockers are running at 2ohm. Which means that most aftermarkets running at 4ohm will be 3db quieter (for the same efficiency). I've also noticed that when a speaker is underpowered that it tends to loose bass/midbass. Many sub problems are actually a lack of good midbass... If you decide to run a front amp, which will probably make a difference, then you should run new wire to the doors.

- How important is it to stick with the same manufacturer and speaker line for the door/center/rear speakers? I'm assuming that subs and amps are open.
As said above it's not important at all - however you'll want to keep the specs in mind when mixing speakers - having some that are much more efficient than others can unbalance the sound. (db/watt/meter)

- When you stick a couple of subs in the rear (probably do a spare-tire well installation), I've seen that people disconnect the factory subs; has anyone replaced those with something like a 6"x8" speaker for additional sound?
Disconnecting and removing the rear subs would be best. You don't want two speakers playing in the same frequency range as you can run into phasing/cancelation issues. Will also allow air movement from trunk into the cabin easier.

Here's the system that I was contemplating. I know that the Polk DB651 speakers seem to be the most popular, and I haven't ruled them out. But, I was thinking of using the following components:

Infinity Kappa 62.9i - door speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_108629I...ppa-62-9i.html

Infinity Kappa 42.9i - dash-mounted center speaker (the stock size is 3.5", but I read that 4" will fit with some modification - I can do some pretty good fabrication)
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_108429I...ppa-42-9i.html

Infinity Kappa 682.9cf - rear deck speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_1086829...a-682-9cf.html
Don't bother w/ rear speakers unless you're going to run a true 5.1 system. They're usually more distracting - and screw up imaging. Keep the stockers and fade them out until they're barely there.

Kenwood KAC 7205 - 2-channel amp
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC...-KAC-7205.html

Infinity 1062w - 10" subs (2 of them, monuted in the spare tire area)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108106...ity-1062w.html

This package gets me $0.08 under my budget - hahaha! Any suggestions or criticisms? Am I wasting money, or what? Like I said - I'm a n00b when it comes to audio.

I'm not going to give alot of specific brand recommentations, however I suggest that you listen to each speaker if possible and see how it sounds to you. You're the one spending the money, and you're the one that will be listening to this. Personally, I find it hardest to get good clean vocals so that's what I bias my listening for. The other things such as bass/treble being to strong can be dealt with in part by processing. I can say that I have listened to the Infinity 1042 and 1242 and even though they are on the lower end of subs they are awesome bang/$$$. If the 1062s are the same they will be good - ensure that you build a proper box for them, and power them properly. Also, I would suggest that you do some sound deadening and sealing on the front doors to help w/ the midbass, you won't regret it.

I agree that there are many places that will sell audio cheaper than crutchfield. They are good people, but expensive....

If you have more questions I would be happy to answer them. Also, if you have time spend some of it at the diyma forum, theres ALOT of knowlege over there.


(However, if anyone wants to know brake compounds, alignment settings, and tire pressures to help a stock G8GT keep up with a BMW E46 M3 on a road course, I'm your guy!! Or, if you're building a Trans Am that will embarass Vipers Comp Coupes and ZR-1 Corvettes, I can do that too!)

Answers above.

Josh

[00 Trans Ram]

Now I'm confused. Talked with a friend who used to sell and install custom systems. He concurred with what most here say - good front speakers, passable rears, good subs and amp in the rear. He said hold off on a front amp, see if I like it, and I can get a front amp later if I want.

Went to an audio store to listen to speakers. The guy there said that I would be better off getting a front amp with stock speakers than I would with aftermarket speakers on a stock head unit. Talked about how good Bose systems sound, and how they use cheap speakers but with good processing.

So, I'm confused again. I think I want new speakers up front anyway. But, do I get cheaper fronts and everything else so I can afford a front amp? Or go ahead with the original plan?