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Thread: M6 Transmission Removal?

  1. #31
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    I have Tick's remote bleeder for the 2010+ Camaro on order. Hopefully it fits.

    @Greg - How is the C6 Slave working for you? I'm going with the GXP stock unit (ouch on the price) because I wasn't sure if it was good or not. I wish I knew if the Tick braided Slave->Master lines would fit or not. I'd like to do that upgrade while the trans is out.
    2009 G8 GXP, M6, Sunroof, Magnetic Gray Metallic, #1481 of 1829
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbully View Post
    I wish I knew if the Tick braided Slave->Master lines would fit or not. I'd like to do that upgrade while the trans is out.
    Bumping and old thread.......anyone know if this one or the Tick braided lines from the C6 will work ?

    What kind of fitting are on the master cylinder and slave cylinder?

    Thanks

  3. #33
    VIP Member BuildItYourSelf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by screaminChick-n View Post
    Bumping and old thread.......anyone know if this one or the Tick braided lines from the C6 will work ?

    What kind of fitting are on the master cylinder and slave cylinder?

    Thanks
    The master has one of them quick snap in deals. And then runs to another snap in deal. And then a hard line to the slave. If your looking to run a new line all the way there's a adaptor from "snap" to a an or jic. "Flang fitting". I'm not sure the name of the snap fitting. Look up gm quick disconnect clutch fitting adaptor or something along them lines.

    As far as a remote bleader they should all be the same. I think its 1/8" npt or you can use a npt-jic and just run a braided line.
    I got mine free from monster when I got my clutch. And man does it help. When I bleed the clutch i stuck the end of the speed bleed in the reservoir and pump it to recirculate. Took about 5 mins.

    Also a tip to remove the trans. You don't need to drop the cradle. What I did was remove the trans but left the bell housing. The removed the bell bousing after.
    When you reinstall the trans put the bolts on the bell housing in about half way so its loose and once everything is lined up again. You start working all the bolts in a star pattern jumping from the front and back of the bell housing. Here's a pic
    IMG_20131010_183844_691.jpg
    2008 GT-M. PBM, #885

  4. #34
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuildItYourSelf View Post
    Also a tip to remove the trans. You don't need to drop the cradle. What I did was remove the trans but left the bell housing. The removed the bell bousing after.
    When you reinstall the trans put the bolts on the bell housing in about half way so its loose and once everything is lined up again. You start working all the bolts in a star pattern jumping from the front and back of the bell housing. Here's a pic
    ... If not for the awkwardness of it, I'd hug you. Unless there's some reason I'm missing to do otherwise, this is the route I'll go when I do my clutch.

    How do you like the Monster Twin Disc, by the way? I've been eyeing their stage one twin since my stock clutch and slave cylinder seem to be on their way out.
    2009 Liquid Red O/R M6 G8 GXP - Nickname: "The Yak"
    Bought 5/21/2009, Sold 5/2/2015. Will be missed!

    Daily Driver: 2013 Ford Focus ST
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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eidolon View Post
    ... If not for the awkwardness of it, I'd hug you. Unless there's some reason I'm missing to do otherwise, this is the route I'll go when I do my clutch.

    How do you like the Monster Twin Disc, by the way? I've been eyeing their stage one twin since my stock clutch and slave cylinder seem to be on their way out.
    I can't compare it to stock because I never drove one. And my car was an auto before obviously.
    Its a very very nicely build clutch. Its also a drivers clutch. You have to be good at driving a manual to like it on the street. You have to burp it and stuff sometimes. Its either in or out and the discs are solid so it hops and chatters a bit. But mines not really even broken in yet I would think a twin disk would take along time to brake in.
    The reason I chose it was it should be the last clutch I'll ever buy for the car. And its only a few hundred to rebuild it.
    2008 GT-M. PBM, #885

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuildItYourSelf View Post
    I can't compare it to stock because I never drove one. And my car was an auto before obviously.
    Its a very very nicely build clutch. Its also a drivers clutch. You have to be good at driving a manual to like it on the street. You have to burp it and stuff sometimes. Its either in or out and the discs are solid so it hops and chatters a bit. But mines not really even broken in yet I would think a twin disk would take along time to brake in.
    The reason I chose it was it should be the last clutch I'll ever buy for the car. And its only a few hundred to rebuild it.
    Yeah, the rebuild-ability is what's tempting. Some people seem to swear by Monster, while others claim they're the devil. Seems to take all sorts.
    Can you explain what you mean by "burp", by the way? Also, what stage did you go with and what flywheel weight, too?
    2009 Liquid Red O/R M6 G8 GXP - Nickname: "The Yak"
    Bought 5/21/2009, Sold 5/2/2015. Will be missed!

    Daily Driver: 2013 Ford Focus ST
    Hauler: 2005 Ford Excursion Powerstroke

  7. #37
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    I got the stage 1 28lb wheel
    By burp I mean a quick bump out to get moving then just let the clutch out instead of slipping the clutch.
    Like starting out on a hill one would normally slip the clutch and then start going. That's really hard to do with this one.
    2008 GT-M. PBM, #885

  8. #38
    VIP Member BuildItYourSelf's Avatar
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    I also have a pretty lopey cam tho so keep that in mind.
    2008 GT-M. PBM, #885

  9. #39
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuildItYourSelf View Post
    I got the stage 1 28lb wheel
    By burp I mean a quick bump out to get moving then just let the clutch out instead of slipping the clutch.
    Like starting out on a hill one would normally slip the clutch and then start going. That's really hard to do with this one.
    That's what I thought you meant, and that sounds like the behavior of the new clutch I just put in my old beater Subaru. It's still breaking in, but I have to either clutch out real quick from a stop or else run the RPMs up a bit to allow the clutch to slip without skittering/juddering. Not sure how long it takes a new clutch to actually break in.
    2009 Liquid Red O/R M6 G8 GXP - Nickname: "The Yak"
    Bought 5/21/2009, Sold 5/2/2015. Will be missed!

    Daily Driver: 2013 Ford Focus ST
    Hauler: 2005 Ford Excursion Powerstroke

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuildItYourSelf View Post
    The master has one of them quick snap in deals. And then runs to another snap in deal. And then a hard line to the slave. If your looking to run a new line all the way there's a adaptor from "snap" to a an or jic. "Flang fitting". I'm not sure the name of the snap fitting. Look up gm quick disconnect clutch fitting adaptor or something along them lines.
    You mean one of these russell male QD to -4AN fitting to the slave cylinder - like below
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/111147459015...#ht_676wt_1133

    , then a short -4AN female to -4AN female braided lines , then back to a male QD to -4AN fitting and then will I be able to
    use the tick performance camaro braided clutch line
    http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...014-camaro-ss/

    I plan on using the camaro MC. What do you guys think ?

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