Can't say if they are telling truth but guy at Tire Kingdom said same (not much English, he just said "no caster"). He did, however, get the car going straight again.Originally Posted by Virus
Can't say if they are telling truth but guy at Tire Kingdom said same (not much English, he just said "no caster"). He did, however, get the car going straight again.
The car is definitely going straight. I've just had so many "tire" issues over the last couple years I worry. I have a 2007 Nissan Quest SE w/PAX. The stock tires outer tread was completely bald by 11k. The dealer blamed me for not rotating. I purchased new rims and tires for DTR and all 4 rims weren't true. They replaced them with better rims and tires. While I have no vibration whatsoever now on the Quest, the outer edges are again wearing very rapidly with only 2500 miles on them. A local shop and the dealer said the alignment is perfect. It goes straight, but they are feathering badly. I don't want this to happen to the G8 as the tires are expensive and don't last long to begin with.
Isn't caster...where the front of the tire is 'say' pointed in or out, and camber is when the top of the tire is in or out?
I just had mine re-alinged and the tech adjusted both...it was way out...the rear was worse than the front.
He set the (caster?) by turning the adjustment on the tie rod.
He set the (camber?) by loosening the 2 bolts on the strut and turning the little (8mm) bolt to add some camber. It had too much negative..was wearing out the inside of the front tires.
My rear was out because I run with 80lbs of lead weight distrubuted in the rear...for road courses...he set it up with the weight. Also the steering wheel was cocked to the right...it's straight now.
I drives....DAMN good now....
gone but not forgotten
1.698 60' 11.946@113.66 BEST 60'....1.650
ENGINE....ls3 block,mahle pistons,forged rods,cloyes timing chain/tensioner,stock crank,clevite bearings,arp bolts through out.
VALVETRAINl92 heads(821casting) with lightweight exhaust valves/stainless intake valves,patriot gold dual springs/titanium locks/retainers,230/240 .595/.605 cam
EXHAUSTkooks mid length headers,no cats,magnaflow mip-pipe/resonators,no rear mufflers.
MISC..3.27 gears,spohn trailing arms,VMR V710'S....245/45-18 FRONT,275/40-18 REAR. CIRCLE D 3K
for now....'95 mystic teal ta,slightly built lt1,cam,headers,intake, tb,every suspension mod,c5 brakes,lowered,3.90 gears,corbeau seats,6-point cage,ZR1 rims.
CASTER>>>
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle
Caster angle is the angular displacement from the vertical axis of the suspension of a steered wheel in a car, bicycle or other vehicle, measured in the longitudinal direction. It is the angle between the pivot line (in a car - an imaginary line that runs through the center of the upper ball joint to the center of the lower ball joint) and vertical. Car racers sometimes adjust caster angle to optimize their car's handling characteristics in particular driving situations.
2011 Kona Blue 5.0 Auto -->(Livernois 93Tune and DR only-11.880 @ 118.11, 1.827) - Lund Racing Tune - BOSS Intake - JPC LTs&OTA, O/R-X, GT500muffs - CircleD 4500 - DSS shaft - DA QA1s - J&M LCAs - JPC UCA/BMR mount - 295/50/16 MT DRs - JLT Catch Can (awaiting install UPR K, TSS oil pump gears)
'08 Black on Black G8GT--> 12.166 @ 113.13, 1.723 Bolt 0ns and Converter --Gone, but not forgotten.--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/gr_devil.gif
Plastic Cuttin' Bad Ass!
That's toe. With the car on the ground and the front tires pointed straight, you can measure it with a tape measure.
Rest in Peace Charlie!
Sold
Just a GT
Ok...then I got the toe and camber fixed. All I know is it drives/feels alot better.. and the damn steering wheel is straight.
gone but not forgotten
1.698 60' 11.946@113.66 BEST 60'....1.650
ENGINE....ls3 block,mahle pistons,forged rods,cloyes timing chain/tensioner,stock crank,clevite bearings,arp bolts through out.
VALVETRAINl92 heads(821casting) with lightweight exhaust valves/stainless intake valves,patriot gold dual springs/titanium locks/retainers,230/240 .595/.605 cam
EXHAUSTkooks mid length headers,no cats,magnaflow mip-pipe/resonators,no rear mufflers.
MISC..3.27 gears,spohn trailing arms,VMR V710'S....245/45-18 FRONT,275/40-18 REAR. CIRCLE D 3K
for now....'95 mystic teal ta,slightly built lt1,cam,headers,intake, tb,every suspension mod,c5 brakes,lowered,3.90 gears,corbeau seats,6-point cage,ZR1 rims.
I had to take mine back in after the last time because they didn't get the steering wheel straight. Now the steering wheel is completely straight, but the alignment sheet is showing 3 things out of spec where the last time only the front total caster was out. Now, the front right Camber is at -0.8 and spec is -0.7 - 0.0. The front left Caster is 7.4 and spec is 4.8 - 7.3. Front Cross Caster is .8 and spec is -0.6 - .6. I'm concerned this may wear the tires prematurely. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Hmmm. My advice is to get a different alignment guy. As far as I know everything is adjustable. Now to get someone to do it is a different story. Heaven forbid some of these front-end guys have to actually do some work. Most of them want to just set the toe and call it good. Too bad you can't get a recommendation for a good shop in your area. Very frustrating imo.
08 White Hot G8GT Sold but not forgotten
Vararam, Fasterproms ported throttlebody and intake, VMS 91octane tune/powerflash
Kooks 1 3/4 Lt's and x pipe, 3.27 gears
The bad thing is I've had 5-6 alignments already. A few for it pulling right, but the rest were just trying to get the steering wheel straight. 3 different shops, one of which I paid for. I hate to have to pay again.
My LCA Recall Service was done in early December, and of course included an alignment. When it originally came home new in June there was the often reported pull to the right. Several shops including the dealer suggested to put some miles on the car before trying to make any changes to the suspension geometry. It actually settled in nicely after about 2000 miles. But after the LCA service and alignment, the steering wheel is out of alignment and it really has a strong urge to drift to the right. I really don't want to go back to the dealer for this I (although that might be a warranty service) but I don't like the way it is right now either.
I wonder (and this is just thinking out loud) that because these are RH drive cars originally if the suspension geometry is set to accommodate the crown in roads while driving on the left side as in Australia?!? I've noticed that when driving on a road with little crown to it, or when passing on a two lane the pull to the right doesn't really appear. Any thoughts?
2009 MSM-Onyx G8, Premium Package, Sunroof, Comfort and Sound Package
VG Shark Fin Antenna Mark II, Pontiac Cargo Tray, Trunk Lid Liner, Auto Dim Mirror, Garmin 1450LMT, Mobil 1
Other Cars:
2014 Terrain SLT
2012 Malibu LT
2009 Impala LS
1967 Bonneville Convertible - Completely Original/No Restoration 56000 Original Miles No Winters NYS Car
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