Drill and tap the broken pad on the side of the intake manifold.....1/8NPT
Screw in a 1/8NPT to 8mm tube stem adapter, available from Pneumatics suppliers like Parker,SMC, Norgren etc.
8423.jpg
Drill and tap the broken pad on the side of the intake manifold.....1/8NPT
Screw in a 1/8NPT to 8mm tube stem adapter, available from Pneumatics suppliers like Parker,SMC, Norgren etc.
8423.jpg
Crazy Paul
Your Holden Parts Connection in Australia!
3M makes a great 2 -part fast setting adhesive that I use all the time. Scuff the area around the break with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper or use an exacto knife to score the plastic making criss cross lines to give the adhesive additional bite. I like to use super glue to get it in place and then when that is dry use the 2 - part stuff around the break. Very strong fix.
This thread is one of the reasons I enjoy this community so much, the OP is takes on the cam swap and has a problem that I know would have freaked me out having never done a swap before and even with the unforeseen issue coming up you guys that are responding are helping in ways that makes me more than confident when the time comes to tackle things I would have previously paid to have done.
I was freaked out when I snapped the cradle bolt on my rear end project swapping the diff and tons of other stuff with the suspension but I got the same type of feedback and was able to finish it up confidently knowing I was not the first to have the problem.
Jimmy- I hope it gets sorted out and you enjoy the new power.
Ideally you want the stem diameter (A) to be 8mm but 5/16" OD is close enough and probably easier to find.
(B) thread 1/8"NPT is the perfect size.
Brass would be the best material to go with.
Swagelok have a range of tube adapters.
SS-5-TA-1-2 would be stainless steel, 5/16" diam male stem, 1/8"NPT male thread.
if you either drop the SS entirely or change SS to B.....you should get brass material instead.
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Crazy Paul
Your Holden Parts Connection in Australia!
CP saves the day....AGAIN!
I want to make an official board request to play the first 6 seconds of this every time Paul posts: http://youtu.be/BdIev12fCPs
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The best fix is to get a soldering iron and black zip. "Plastic-weld" it, works great. Glue will not hold...
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2009 G8 GT-Rick Crawford- LS-4-SPEED@nc.rr.com
2.00 60ft 13.06 @ 106.65 w/ 1.85 SLP Rocker-HPTuner
1.97 60ft 12.97 @ 107.9 w/ 3.45 gears
1.97 60ft 12.87 @ 107.7 w/ 4"-2.5" exhaust
1.94 60ft 12.57 @ 111.9 w/ 217/225 Lunati cam
2.03 60ft 12.37 @ 115.3 w/ Doug Thorley headers
1.94 60ft 12.20 @ 115.0 w/ 219/233 Thumpr Cam
1.70 60ft 11.38 @ 121.5 w/ 100hp NOS Dry shot-HSW controller & 285/40 NT05 Drag Radials on stock 18's
1.72 60ft 11.65 @118.55 w/ 221/233 111LSA+0 Ported AirRam intake, Street tires. All Motor. DoD/AFM still functional.
1.66 60ft 10.87 @ 127.08 w/ 221/233 lunati, 2800 stall, 100HP wet nitrous shot, milled & ported LS3's.
1.65 60ft 10.81 @ 129.10 150Hp shot 2600 stall.
1.53 60ft 10.59 @ 129.72 ALL MOTOR! ! ! ! Fastest N/A G8 Record Holder
Just noticed , looking at intake on right side, there was a plastic nipple sticking out, for what i would assume is a vacuum line and it plums to other side to a sensor? Anyway it broke off intake, can i tap hole and put a brass fitting in with a barbed end to hook hard plastic line to it without changing the whole intake manifold? Anybody run into this problem.....