Alignment...just DIY it.

[toedrag]

The places that you went can you tell me if the alignment machines had sensors or targets on them?
Sensors are larger and use lasers to send beams between the other sensors on the wheels.
Targets are basically just reflectors that are seen by cameras in a large overhead boom. these typically flash red lights when they are working.

NTB & Firestone both had the flashing red light system, where the car was on a dedicated lift

Sears had a different system...no lift, the car sits on the ground, and I didn't see any flashing lights. Sears claims to have an exclusive deal with Hunter for this eqp't. Found an article on this here: linky Looks to be camera based.

if a shop give you a print out, but then writes the numbers on it by hand, that's not a good sign.

That's my handwriting. I'm not sure why I didn't bother to ask about the actual numbers. I think I was in a hurry, and from just eyeballing the results, I knew they were different than the others. It didn't so much matter to me that they weren't exact.

[RamJet]

I know this is an old post, but I'm glad to find this one.
The wife's G8 has a crooked wheel after hitting a pothole, so after I check that nothing is bent or crushed, I'll check the camber. I am assuming that you rotated the bolt with the car off of the ground?
But then that would be a pain to keep dropping it down to re-measure. So was it on the ground for the video?
Thanks!

Dave

[BuildItYourSelf]

Nice post.
I been doing my own alignment for years.
I have the level for the spindle. It helps a lot.
Caster camber level.
images_78260.jpg

Toe plates
download (1).jpg

These and two tape measures that read the same are pretty much all you need
Turn plates help but not necessarily.

[toedrag]

I know this is an old post, but I'm glad to find this one.
The wife's G8 has a crooked wheel after hitting a pothole, so after I check that nothing is bent or crushed, I'll check the camber. I am assuming that you rotated the bolt with the car off of the ground?
But then that would be a pain to keep dropping it down to re-measure. So was it on the ground for the video?
Thanks!

Dave

After you've measured the camber with the wheel on the ground and determined how much you want to change it, jack up the car to put the wheel in the air and re-measure the camber (yes, with the wheel hanging and suspension relaxed). The measurement will be vastly different, but that's fine. Then, adjust the eccentric bolt to increase/decrease the camber by however much you had determined from your initial measurement with the car on the ground. Once the camber is adjusted where you want it, lower the car back on the ground, and torque it. You do need to watch the eccentric while torquing because it will want to rotate.

To test your adjustments and to re-measure after lowering the car, you need to get the suspension to settle, which usually means rolling the car back and forth a couple of times. Don't simply lower the car and re-measure b/c the camber will naturally be too positive, and your measurements will be off.

In the video, the wheel was up in the air.

[RamJet]

Thanks, Toe, this will help a lot.

Buildit, where did you get your level?
Thanks.

[RamJet]

Okay, toe looks to be wide by about 1/8" (with plates measures 77 1/16" at front, 76 15/16 at the rear), but the camber doesn't look off. Not that I have super accurate measuring devices. Nothing looks bent or damaged, though I'd bet both G8's have bad strut tower bushings.
Her alignment was off anyway, has always worn the front tires funny.

[RamJet]

Okay, back again.
I bought a digital angle gauge and checked the front camber. Driver's side reads positive, passenger reads .3 negative. Book says to replace the two strut bolts, but can they safely be reused?
I'd bet they can, just wanted to see if others had had success reusing these.
Thanks again.

[BuildItYourSelf]

Thanks, Toe, this will help a lot.

Buildit, where did you get your level?
Thanks.

Sorry I didn't see your question.
I got it from a local shop. There online.

[v84me]

Great thread. I had no idea the shops would be so different from each other. I do my own alignment because the shops seemed to willing to settle for anything inside the factory range, several shops wanted to charge me extra to set the alignment at the numbers I provided, and they wouldn't let me either weight the seat, or sit in the vehicle. For my garage, finding / creating 4 level spots took most of a morning. In the end, I used a couple of self stick vinyl tiles on the low spots to set the vehicle level. It takes a fair amount of time to complete the alignment, but I think my results are better than the shops are willing to set.

[Vz28]

Okay, back again.
I bought a digital angle gauge and checked the front camber. Driver's side reads positive, passenger reads .3 negative. Book says to replace the two strut bolts, but can they safely be reused?
I'd bet they can, just wanted to see if others had had success reusing these.
Thanks again.

I won't tell you to reuse them but I have had much success doing so without the alignment ever slipping - I only tighten them to the "lb-ft" spec initially and tighten them more (towards the "+ X degrees") once I am happy with the settled numbers. However I do change them out once in awhile for peace of mind as I change the alignment often.

OEM rear alignment bolts require inspection if you reuse them as the welds to the eccentric washer can break with multiple alignments and your toe/camber can shift under load which is not fun. Pedders rear bolts have more range if you need it but require more torque (on the main nuts) and some loctite to keep them from slipping in my experience.