Vaporworx Install

[aceperformance]

I just installed a VaporWorx \ PressureWorx system in my Supercharged G8 with a CTSV pump and thought I would do a write-up on how I installed it along with P/N for the parts I used. The process is the same for a ZL1 pump except for some of the wiring. I will be glad to answer any questions I can. First I just want to say that this setup is top notch. I spoke with Carl, the owner of the company, several times and must say that customer service is as good as the product, excellent. Any questions I had were answered the same day. He even called me on a Sunday to help me out. Well enough about that lets get to it.

Section One - Prep
Before you start I recommend that you have no more than 3-4 gallons of gas in the tank. You can check this by holding down the scroll button on the left side of your steering wheel while starting the car. This puts you in engineering mode. This allows you to see several things one being fuel level. Write down how many gallons are in the tank on a piece of paper and attach the paper to the steering wheel. Next, you will want to choose a location that is well ventilated, level, and on a solid surface such as concrete. When you remove the old pump the gas smell will be STRONG. And don’t smoke or use an open flame for shrink tube. I know this sounds crazy but I have seen crazier things. You will need to jack the rear of the car up so make sure the area that you have chosen is on level and solid. Lastly, disconnect the Battery before starting the install.

Section Two – Removing the old pump.
1. Remove the back seat by pulling up on the front of the seat bottom.
2. Next I removed the seat back by removing the 6 bolts at the bottom of the seat back.
3. Next you will need to cut out an access hole for removing and installing the fuel pumps. I did this with a nibbler. They can be purchased pretty cheap. I have also heard of people doing it with tin snips. However you do it keep in mind that the wires are very close and you don’t want to cut them. If you do it with snips I would loosen the straps on the tank and lower it a little. This is how mine looked once I cut the panel out. This is after I installed the ctsv pump but you get an idea of the size.

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After you have the hole ruffed out you can clean the cut up and make it look clean. You will be making a cover later so keep the piece you cut out as a reference.
4. Before you do anything else you need to clean up all the metal shavings and whatever else is in that area. I used a shop vac and then used brake clean and a rag to clean off all the dust. Then vacuum again. Anything that you don’t get will fall in the tank. You don’t want a bunch of crap going into your new pump.
5. Disconnect the plug and move the wire and harness out of the way the best you can.
6. Then release the fuel pressure on the fuel rail by pushing the center of the fuel pressure tap. Be carful it will be under pressure. Then unscrew the gas cap.
7. Next, Remove the lock ring with a hammer and a large screwdriver.
8. Now before you go any further I just want to let you know that the fuel will leak when you pull the pump out so you may want to have some rags laid out so you can soak up the fuel if it leaks in the car. The area that the pump sits in is concave so anything that goes in that area will go back in the tank. You don’t want to get gas on the interior; it will stink for a long time.
9. Now disconnect the fuel line on the pump. Push the fitting in then push the tabs and pull back. Now comes the fun part. Pull the pump up about 6-8 inches and lean it to the side so the gas in the cartridge can pour out. Then pull it out till you can get your hand to the transfer tube on the bottom of the pump. Disconnect this tube the same way you did the fitting on the top of the pump. Once disconnected let the transfer tube fall back in the tank. Now pull the pump out and remove from the car. Be careful not to bend the fuel level sensor arm. You will be using it on the new pump.

Section 3 – New Pump Setup

10. If you are using the ZL1 Pump all you need to do is remove the fuel level sending unit from the G8 pump and install it on the ZL1 Pump. No rewiring on the pump is required. If you are using the CTSV pump assembly you will need to modify the fuel level sending unit arm and modify the wiring on the pump. Not a big deal at all. Carl is modifying his wiring instructions so I will not explain this. To get the fuel level sending unit straitened out I took the factory G8 pump assembly and set it on a table. Then I hooked up a Volt-Ohm Meter to the plug with the two small wires, fuel level sending unit. I then measured in half-inch increments and noted the ohm reading from bottom all the way up.

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Please don’t give me grief about the Harbor Freight VOM









This is what I came up with:
Height from Table to center of the rod going through the float in Inches OHMS
Empty .9” 249
1” 249
1.5” 239
2” 222
2.5” 208
3” 192
3.5” 178
4” 162
4.5” 145
5” 128
5.5” 111
6” 94
6.5” 77
7” 56
Full 7.25 42

Then you can install the fuel level sending unit on the CTSV pump and hook up your Volt-Ohm Meter the same as before. IMPORTANT-Remove the float assembly from the sender before you do any bending.
First you will notice that the float is much higher, you will need to increase the radius of the bend closest to the sender. Re-Install and referrer to the chart above. It is trial and error. You don’t have to get it right on; the ohm reading can be a few off. My reading was 152 ohms at .75”. I had to set my empty a little low so that the ohms would change sooner. When I set the arm to 252 ohms at 1” I could move the arm up to 2” and it would still be at 252 ohms. This would cause you to read empty when you still had 5-8 gallons not 3 gallons. When I moved the empty to 252 ohms at .5” within a half of an inch of movement I started to see an ohm drop. Hope this makes sense. Once I got that close I decreased the radius of the last bend a little and got my full reading at 45 ohms. Remember this is a trail and error process so have a few beers close it may take a couple of tries. When I installed my pump setup it was dead on. Remember you will have to take your pump out if it’s not right and do it again so just take your time and you will get it. Like I said before Carl is making some new instructions and will be covering this as well. If you have access to HP Tuners you can modify the scale in it to make fine adjustments.
11. Here is a picture of my pump after the wiring mods. Remember Carl is modifying this so it may look a little different now.

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12. You will need to cut the corners off of the locating tab on the top of the new pump. This will allow you to clock the pump the right way when you get ready to install the pump.

Section Four – Fuel Lines and Fittings
13. Here is a list of parts that I used.
(2) GM 3/8 EFI to -6 Male AN Get the ones with the screw on back. Rick C and Carl both have had issues with the quick connect type.
(1) -6 female to -6 female swivel 90 degree fitting
(1) -6 female to -6 male 45 degree fitting
(1) -6 male to -6 male with 1/8 inch fuel tap
(1) -6 female straight hose end
(1) -6 female 150 degree hose end
3 feet of -6 braided line. Note you would be wise to get a good Teflon lined hose. It is a lot less susceptible to ethanol deterioration than a regular rubber lined hose. Thank Carl...
I have all the p/n if you need them just PM me and I will be happy to give them to you.

Here is a picture of the fittings all together that go on the pump with pressure sensor.
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Install the pressure sensor in the adapter using Teflon tape. Do not get in on the first 2 threads. Assemble the fittings together as seen above. Do not tighten anything other than the pressure sensor at this time. Now install the straight -6 hose end on the 3-foot piece of hose. Once installed use air to blow out the hose making sure that no debris is in the fitting or hose.



Section Five – Pump install
14. Take your pump assembly and lower it into the tank making sure you do not hit the sending unit on anything as it will bend and or brake easily. Don’t forget your oring. Once you have the pump a few inches in reach your hand into the tank and find your transfer tube and connect it to the pump by simply pushing it on. Give it a little tug to make sure that it is locked in place.
15. Now lower the pump pointing the tab towards the at the 1 o’clock position. Make sure you don’t get any wires caught under the pump and that your O-ring is still in place.
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Here is a picture of the ctsv pump installed. Note the position of the locating tab. It is at the 1 o’clock position.

16. Now you can install your locking ring. Make sure that you get it locked. You will have to employee your hammer and screwdriver again.
17. Jack the rear of the vehicle up and secure it with jack stands.
18. Cut the quick fitting off of the factory fuel line at the pump.
19. Now feed the new fuel line down the passenger side of the tank.
20. Install the EFI to -6 quick fitting on the fuel pump. Be sure to lubricate the O-rings prior to installation.
21. Install the fittings with the fuel pressure sensor to the tank. This is a little tricky but it fits.
22. Once you do a test fit getting the fittings in the right position remove and tighten the fittings.
23. Reinstall the fittings the pump leave the connection to the pump loose for now.
24. Connect the new fuel to the fittings and tighten.
25. Tighten the fitting at the pump.

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Here is a picture of the finished product. Disregard the wiring for now.

26. Underneath the car disconnect the factory fuel line and pull the factory fuel line out.
27. Install the EFI quick fitting on the factory hard. Be sure to lubricate the O-rings prior to installation.

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Here is a picture showing the EFI fitting installed and the new line routed from the fuel pump. The factory line with the yellow tag you just pull out.

28. Install the 150-degree fitting to the efi fitting.
29. Wrap the new fuel line around the tank and cut to length. Add an extra 6 inches.
30. Install the fitting on the line.
31. Install an Adel clamp to secure the line.

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Section Six – Wiring
32. Find a suitable location for your controller.

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I used 3M double sided tape for added security.
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33. Cut the factory connector off at the pump and wire per Carl’s instructions.
34. Plug the new connector into the pump.
35. Run the long length of wires out the rubber boot to the controller.
36. Secure the wires.

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37. Now wire up the controller per Carl’s instructions. His instructions cover this in great detail. So I will not go over this. If you need help feel free to contact either of us. Note- if you choose to do a 1:1 pressure increase with boost you will have to run wires up to the map sensor.
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Finished product.

Section Seven – Finishing up
38. Check all of your fittings and connections, both fuel and electrical. Make sure they are tight and secured.
39. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail.
40. Connect your battery.
41. Turn your key to the 2nd click, do not start the engine. Wait 5 seconds and turn off. Repeat this step 5 times.
42. Check each fitting for leaks. This includes the pressure gauge. If you have leaks fix them and go back to step 41. Otherwise go to step 43.
43. Turn your key to the 2nd click, do not start the engine. Check the pressure on the gauge. If the pressure is 35 psi to 50 psi, adjust the controller with the provided insulated screwdriver.
44. Now that your pressure is 35psi to 50psi you can start the car. Do not rev the engine. Monitor the pressure gauge for 30 seconds and allow the fuel pressure to stabilize.
45. Make adjustments to the controller to obtain the fuel pressure your tuner recommends. I use 58psi constant, no 1:1 increase for boost. Note-This is what I did for the CTSV pump. I have not used a ZL1 pump so I have no info on it. If you do use the 1:1 increase for boost take your max boost and subtract that from 65. That number should be your gauge pressure at idle. If you have really large injectors this is the way to go as it can make it a lot easier to tune the idle and light throttle areas. Again this is something you need to discuss with your tuner.
46. Remove the gauge.
47. Tune the car. Don’t go out and beat up on the car until you have the tune modified for the pump. It might be spot on, I doubt it, and then again it might be way off. Don’t chance it.
48. I left the back seat out for a few day so I could check the fittings for leaks.
49. Make a cover for the fuel pump and install the back seat.
50. Go out and have fun. You now have a fuel system you can rely on.

Thanks Carl for all of your help and the great product.

[Crazy8]

Nice write up. Thanks for posting!

[aceperformance]

No problem. Happy to do it. If anyone has questions feel free to ask.