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View Full Version : Changed the oil today...



PantherGT
08-03-2009, 03:45 PM
So that was more difficult than it needed to be!!!! Not only is it 9 qts (I've come to terms with that, plus got a great deal on the oil from here) but the stupid filter is horribly placed!!! You can't hardly get in there and apparently the factory does not follow the hand tight rule for the filter. lol Had to go pick up a band tool for the filter. But it's done, Royal Purple synthetic. So far runs great!!

And for you LS3 people... Do you have to go with 9 qts? Or is it around 5 like normal people. lol Is it the DOD that requires the 18000 gallons of viscous liquid? haha

polo
08-03-2009, 04:13 PM
I was thinking the complete opposite when I changed my oil for the first time about a week ago. I thought the filter was extremely easy to get to. On my previous vehicle the filter was way up high, so you barely had enough room to get your hand in there, let alone a wrench of any sort.

PantherGT
08-03-2009, 04:48 PM
I just couldn't get a grip on it because only that one side is exposed. And it was hot.

polo
08-03-2009, 04:54 PM
I used one of these (but mine was metal), and it works great.
http://sprinterstore.com/Oil%20Filter%20Wrench.JPG

PantherGT
08-03-2009, 05:17 PM
Hmmm that looks nice. The K&N filter that came with the Pace package had the same bottom. But the stocker was a dick.

polo
08-03-2009, 05:26 PM
Yeah, I happened to already have one of those that fit the stock filter. I bought one to fit the Mobil 1 filter that I put on it.

mark
08-03-2009, 06:18 PM
My stock filter was also a bitch to get off the first time I changed the oil. It's hard to accurately hand-tighten them too, since only that 1 side is really accessible. Other than that, the oil change was a breeze.

Between the oil filter being so tight, and the lug nuts(torqued to about eleventy-billion foot pounds), someone is going overboard tightening parts of this car together.

pha|anx
08-03-2009, 08:18 PM
lol my filter and so far everything else I've tampered with haven't been that nuts. funny others experiencing that though

:D

100 posts, woot lol

DRCUSTOMPARTS
08-03-2009, 08:25 PM
I just changed mine for the first time and it was so much easier than changing it on the V6 in my Grand Prixs. The filter is right out in the open, I used a cup wrench with a ratchet and it was a breeze. To install the filter I hand tightened it as much as I could, then gave it a 1/4th of a turn with the cup wrench.

ScottE
08-03-2009, 08:29 PM
I bought 9 qts. of Mobile 1 Extended Life oil and a K&N filter with the intent of changing the oil myself. My Rino Ramps would not easily fit under the front bumper, so I had the dealership change the oil for me (using my oil and filter) while it was in the shop for the recalls.

The only issue I have is that they only used 8 qts. of oil and gave me back 1 qt.

This is an 09' model bought in December. The oil level looks ok.

Should I be concerned with it only having 8 qts. in the pan?

DRCUSTOMPARTS
08-03-2009, 09:06 PM
If the oil level on the dipstick is at the top full mark, then it's ok. Just keep an eye on it.

PaFromFL
08-04-2009, 05:12 AM
I used one of these (but mine was metal), and it works great.
I've encountered filters that metal or plastic cup-type wrenches wouldn't budge (although that may be because I tend to buy cheap tools). Modern cars often don't provide enough clearance for handle-type wrenches. So far, my three-legged wrench is undefeated. I use a rubber band around the legs to initially hold it in place.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHKAO

dandragonrage
08-04-2009, 05:44 AM
I changed the oil/filter on my mom's 05 Accord the other day. The filter was sideways, up about 6-8" from the bottom of the block, above the half-shaft and extremely close to the exhaust. It was a pain and of course I burned myself (minorly)

I use this http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Car-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_b

polo
08-04-2009, 02:07 PM
I've encountered filters that metal or plastic cup-type wrenches wouldn't budge (although that may be because I tend to buy cheap tools). Modern cars often don't provide enough clearance for handle-type wrenches. So far, my three-legged wrench is undefeated. I use a rubber band around the legs to initially hold it in place.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHKAO

That's cool, I've never seen one of those. I've never had an issue with my cup wrenches, and I've also got a wrench that looks like a big set of pliers that works great for removing filters. I guess as long as you're installing the filter yourself, you don't have to worry about it being overtightened. But if you take your car somewhere else, and then try to do it yourself the next time, you better make sure you have a tool that works! (of you could just stab a screwdriver through it and turn it ;) )

dandragonrage
08-04-2009, 03:12 PM
I can also vouch for those cup wrenches sucking, btw.

BigRob
08-04-2009, 07:31 PM
I bought 9 qts. of Mobile 1 Extended Life oil and a K&N filter with the intent of changing the oil myself. My Rino Ramps would not easily fit under the front bumper, so I had the dealership change the oil for me (using my oil and filter) while it was in the shop for the recalls.

The only issue I have is that they only used 8 qts. of oil and gave me back 1 qt.

This is an 09' model bought in December. The oil level looks ok.

Should I be concerned with it only having 8 qts. in the pan?

i think the dealer only did 8 on mine as well. after the car sat for about two hours the oil is right in the middle of the hash marks. usually its been a lot closer to the full mark. should i add about another quart or will this be fine?

dandragonrage
08-04-2009, 07:56 PM
Between the two marks is usually considered fine, but if you want to be at the top mark, add a quarter to a half of a quart at a time.

p71
08-04-2009, 08:02 PM
probably one of the easier cars to change it in... easier than the boneville... not as easy as my avalanche was...

BigRob
08-04-2009, 08:05 PM
so middle of the hash marks or 2nd hole down is a-ok? good to know... im just surprised to see it there, every other oil change the dealer did was right at the full mark when the level was checked on a warm motor.

dandragonrage
08-04-2009, 08:28 PM
Well, it's probably best to be at the top mark exactly, but between the two is usually the operating range. I doubt it's a full quart down from max capacity. Probably half at most.

PantherGT
08-05-2009, 02:10 PM
How often do I need to change it?

DRCUSTOMPARTS
08-05-2009, 02:47 PM
I change the synthetic oil every 5000 miles, I don't like leaving dirty oil in the engine for too long. There are contaminants from combustion that collect in the oil that the oil filter can't remove, and they can eat away at the internal engine parts.

dandragonrage
08-05-2009, 02:54 PM
I change the synthetic oil every 5000 miles, I don't like leaving dirty oil in the engine for too long. There are contaminants from combustion that collect in the oil that the oil filter can't remove, and they can eat away at the internal engine parts.

You're wasting your money and you're wasting oil. Cut it out. Especially for our engines that take 9 quarts and can hold far more contaminants.

With a good filter and German Castrol 0w30, I will go 10k in most cars. With our 9 quarts and a quality filter, I wouldn't hesitate going 12-15k.

DRCUSTOMPARTS
08-05-2009, 03:02 PM
Nope I drive my car hard most of the time, I make short trips and I hardly ever drive on the highway. When my engine is still going strong after 100,000 miles and yours needs a rebuild, then you won't say I wasted money on oil.

dandragonrage
08-05-2009, 07:01 PM
Nope I drive my car hard most of the time, I make short trips and I hardly ever drive on the highway. When my engine is still going strong after 100,000 miles and yours needs a rebuild, then you won't say I wasted money on oil.

Well, given that that's not going to happen, I will not be saying that. You are most definitely wasting your money if you're buying good oil. I could tell you I change my oil every single day. What would you say?

DRCUSTOMPARTS
08-05-2009, 07:21 PM
Well you can keep the oil that's contaminated with corrosive acids from combustion in your motor as long as you want, and I'll keep changing mine at 5000 miles because I feel it's well worth the extra money to get it out of there sooner. Besides the average quality oil filter reaches it's filtering capacity at 5000 miles, so that's another reason I change it at that interval too.

dandragonrage
08-05-2009, 07:29 PM
So be it. I've said what I wanted to. But, other people, don't bother going only 5000 miles ;)

G8GT594
08-05-2009, 08:41 PM
Well you can keep the oil that's contaminated with corrosive acids from combustion in your motor as long as you want, and I'll keep changing mine at 5000 miles because I feel it's well worth the extra money to get it out of there sooner. Besides the average quality oil filter reaches it's filtering capacity at 5000 miles, so that's another reason I change it at that interval too.

I change mine around every 3500-4k.

Every 10k? I don't even let my mothers lease go that long lol.

dandragonrage
08-06-2009, 04:44 AM
Good for you, but you're wasting your money.

p71
08-06-2009, 02:16 PM
additive packages will also break down by that time...

the super long change intervals being touted are fine if you drive highway miles at 60 mph under low loads in 55 degree weather with an engine that is 100% to spec etc etc etc...

in the real world 5K miles is sensible insurance.

g8sponge
08-06-2009, 04:44 PM
Have either of you arguing your point sent in a sample? Otherwise its conjecture. It would be surprising that 9 qts of a synthetic would go bad in 5k short of .5 mile trips in 100+ degree dust bowl.

dandragonrage
08-06-2009, 07:04 PM
In my car? No. But go ask on Bobistheoilguy if German Castrol is good for 10k if you use a good filter. Plenty of them HAVE had their oil analyzed.

The Commodore
08-06-2009, 07:49 PM
It was easier than in my 2003 F-150 FX4. With the 4x4, you had the front drive axles and control arm making it impossible to get to with a big arm. Had to get my little bro to loosen it lol.

The thing that gets me with this car is that it's a car so I have to jack it up. With my truck you could slide under it easily with out jacking it up.

G8GT594
08-06-2009, 08:07 PM
It really doesn't matter. Change your oil when you want to. If I choose to "waste" my money changing my oil every 2500-3k then so be it. If you choose to run oil for 10k miles then do so. I prefer clean oil running through my motor. Keep in mind I run my car hard.
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piecesparts
08-07-2009, 07:02 AM
Good for you, but you're wasting your money.


I have to ask, please don't go postal. Do you have a background in lubrication engineering or are you supporting your discussion with something else? I understand the thought of good oils--as a matter of fact I am running Mobil 1 in my G8 since the first oil change, but I also understand the discussion of the changing oil at 5000 miles. I do this with my daily driver truck and it is at 290,000 and still climbing fast with driving in all kinds of weather. ( I do not run a true synthetic in it, though---I use a friction reducer additive with the dinosaur blood) I also change the oils in my show vehicles at short term intervals, due to the type of use and the amount of time they sit around after running short distances.

As for wasting oil and money--it is only a factor to those that feel it is a waste. If the changing at a regular rate is creating a placebo for the driver, then so be it.

I went to a clinic, given by a couple of oil manufactueres (Synergyn) in Oklahoma and they support a couple of reality items----Royal Purple is a complete synthetic and hass no real oil backgrounds to it. They also support the claims of RP is somewhat mystic and their organization will not use it. They stand by the Mobil 1 product, since it has the best programs to date. (They do not make Mobil 1, by the way) I and my Engine guru/machinist believe that changing oil at 5000 is not bad at all---even the higher dollar synthetics--due to contaminants. GM supported the 12000 to 15000 mile changes with their Gen III and Gen IV motors and to me that is surprising.

dandragonrage
08-07-2009, 07:13 AM
Was someone going postal? You guys are making some weird stuff up about me here.

The evidence I quote might be that of other people, but at least I have something to back up what I'm saying here.

Some people just refuse to move forward with the times. :nah:

PantherGT
08-07-2009, 09:51 AM
What did I start?!?! lol

G8GT594
08-07-2009, 09:57 AM
Was someone going postal? You guys are making some weird stuff up about me here.

The evidence I quote might be that of other people, but at least I have something to back up what I'm saying here.

Some people just refuse to move forward with the times. :nah:

Dude I'm 21.. I understand with new techbology oil can be ran longer be ran longer but I'm still a firm believer in changing every 3k to 5k miles.
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waco54sp
08-12-2009, 02:17 PM
Wow, watching this thread is like a train wreck. You want to look away but you can't. So here I go............
I agree that changing your oil at any interval less than 10K miles is a waste of oil, time, and money; not to mention environmentally unfriendly. That is under the assumption we are all using a high quality synthetic oil and high grade oil filter. There wouldn't be anything wrong with changing the filter at 5K miles if you were still not comfortable with 10K miles oil change interval. I've seen engines 200K miles running dino oil and 5K mile change intervals. If dino oil lasts 5K miles, then synthetic will definitely last 10K miles. There are some synthetics that tout 20K mile change intervals with filter change at 10K.
P.S. It's clear from watching this thread that the oil company's marketing efforts of the 70's, 80's worked pretty well. They convinced everyone that we must change our oil every 3K miles. Clearly additive packages and oil technology has improved, but the marketing has done it's damage.