Pulley Installation

[G8Smitty]

Is the pulley installation fairly straight forward? On a scale from 1 to 5, 5 being the most difficult, how would you rank this (assuming you have access to decent tools). I haven't looked and my car isn't with me and Livernois deal looks sweet.

Has anyone documented the procedure by chance? If so, would you mind sharing?

[Chewy]

I haven't done it but I have the parts to. Just no car. Sounds like you have to move the fans out of the way and of course need a puller to pull the old one off. It's like 55 bucks online.

It looks like a 2 hour job if you're careful and take your time:om:.

[G8Smitty]

I haven't done it but I have the parts to. Just no car. Sounds like you have to move the fans out of the way and of course need a puller to pull the old one off. It's like 55 bucks online.

It looks like a 2 hour job if you're careful and take your time:om:.

I have a couple different pullers, do you have a link to the one needed?

[Chewy]

I have a couple different pullers, do you have a link to the one needed?

Let me find it...

It HAS to be a special one that used on LS1 and other Chevy motors.

[Chewy]

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc6267.html

The puller of choice!

[GRRRR8]

Smitty, It is about a 3 on your scale. With an installer or longer bolt to press back on it is easy. DO NOT PUT THE RUBBER SEAL ON THAT IS ON THE FACTORY BALANCER!

[G8Smitty]

Hmmm...

I certainly don't have a LSx specific puller. It sounds like another mod abandoned then.

[G8Smitty]

Damn, you guys are fast with the updates!
The picture of the puller that you have linked looks like a more stout 3 jaw puller. Do you know if is it something more special that?

[Andy@Livernois]

come on... Everybody's doing it... :D I think i have one left at that price too....

[GRRRR8]

Smitty it is more then worth the effort!

[G8Smitty]

come on... Everybody's doing it... :D I think i have one left at that price too....


I want to, but I don't need another paperweight. :)

I've done this a bunch on older chevys, but I know that if you need a special tool and you don't have it, it isn't worth trying to poorboy it.

[G8Smitty]

Smitty it is more then worth the effort!

:lalala:

Right now I'm in a good frame of mind trying to make sure that I would have what I need. Once I dig into it, I get very determined. If I don't have what I need, I tend to improvise. I don't want to have to buy a new radiator or something else too, due to my improvisation. :)

[Chewy]

Hey Charlie,

This "longer bolt" please S plain?:huh:

I know you don't hammer them on so is there a bolt I need now? I have the ARP...:hmm:

[Andy@Livernois]

why don't you see how much MC racing will charge for the install??? I'm sure it wont be too much, and since it will be there for the tune anyways.... see what im getting at?

[g8_795]

I just installed my UDP two days ago. Give me a few minutes, I will post my thoughts on the installation.
-Robert

[Greg@PacePerformance]

I have a G6 balancer puller that I have used before. It was not perfect but it worked. Just buy the correct balancer puller you will need it in the future anyway :worthy:

ATI sells an adapter for the older SBC balancer install tools to get the balancer most of the way on.

[g8_795]

First off, don't start this process until you have all of the tools. Especially a way to put the pulley back on.

Secondly, I will probably be banned for being such a shade-tree mechanic.

If I had to do it over again and I knew a GOOD mechanic, I would rather pay $60-$100 for the good mechanic to do it. But I don't know any good mechanics around here.

Critical Tools required:
3-jaw pulley puller (I bought a cheap one at Pep Boys)
Large torque wrench (Should go up to 240lbs/ft)
UDP installer (I used a large bolt with a bunch of washers)
Crow bar (maybe not needed, but I needed it)

First I removed the RF CAI tubes and the fans. I did not have to remove any radiator hoses to remove the fans, but you do have to work to get the fans out. Pulling off the original pulley was not difficult. The hardest part was trying to figure out how to keep the engine from spinning. I used a crow bar on the flywheel to accomplish this (Anybody know a better or more proper way to do this?). Putting the UDP took a bit because I thought I was going to be able to use the old bolt to press the UDP on the crank. THIS DOES NOT WORK. The bolt is not long enough to start the process. I finally found a local shop that had a long enough bolt to use and the UDP went right on. The mechanic told me, they just use a hammer. Uh, NO, that is why I say find a GOOD mechanic above. Make sure that you keep the UDP straight when starting the initial pressing on the shaft. Once on tight, I put the old bolt back in and TQ'd to 240lbs. Removed the old bolt and put in the new TTY bolt. TQ'd to 37 lbs/ft. Then turned another 100-140 degrees. This is VERY tight. I put everything back together and was done.

The car seems to rev much quicker now. I can definitely tell the difference, but can't wait to bring it back out to the track.

Thanks Charlie for your help during the install. As Charlie pointed out a few time, don't put the rubber seal thing on the original pulley on the new UDP. Also, the UDP is keyed, and the shaft is not. It looks like this does not matter.
-Robert

[Featherburner]

come on... Everybody's doing it... :D I think i have one left at that price too....

Not anymore. :bleh:

[Andy@Livernois]

damnit, now I will have to order more :D anyone else up for one???

[Chewy]

Ok so if the crank isn't keyed what keeps the pulley from spinning on the end of the crank? :o

What length of bolt is needed??? Pics of your setup??

Thanks for the tutorial. I may do a step by step with pics.

How DO we keep the engine from turning?

[GRRRR8]

Slight taper. A hi rpm or blower app, would need need to be pinned or keyed

[Chewy]

Slight taper. A hi rpm or blower app, would need need to be pinned or keyed

Don't leave me wanting man...:o

[G8Smitty]

damnit, now I will have to order more :D anyone else up for one???

Same price? How long before shipping?

[Andy@Livernois]

I am sure i could do it for the same... let me make some calls

edit... I could do that for the same price...

[g8_795]

Ok so if the crank isn't keyed what keeps the pulley from spinning on the end of the crank? :o

What length of bolt is needed??? Pics of your setup??

Thanks for the tutorial. I may do a step by step with pics.

How DO we keep the engine from turning?

You will need a bolt at least 3/4" longer then the original bolt. To keep the engine from spinning I used a crow bar against the flywheel and TQ converter. There is a little access panel directly under the flywheel. Does anybody know a better way to do this? My way worked, but was sort of a pain and seemed like a hack. I didn't take pics during the install. I should have. Are you wanting pics of the final install?
-Robert

[Chewy]

You will need a bolt at least 3/4" longer then the original bolt. To keep the engine from spinning I used a crow bar against the flywheel and TQ converter. There is a little access panel directly under the flywheel. Does anybody know a better way to do this? My way worked, but was sort of a pain and seemed like a hack. I didn't take pics during the install. I should have. Are you wanting pics of the final install?
-Robert


Nope just wanted bolt size and all that... Length thread size. I can grab the ARP bolt I have and take to the hardware store though I guess.

[G8Smitty]

You will need a bolt at least 3/4" longer then the original bolt. To keep the engine from spinning I used a crow bar against the flywheel and TQ converter. There is a little access panel directly under the flywheel. Does anybody know a better way to do this? My way worked, but was sort of a pain and seemed like a hack. I didn't take pics during the install. I should have. Are you wanting pics of the final install?
-Robert

Thanks for the write up Robert. It sounds very similar to how I expect it would go. I think I'll order one up and if I don't get to it, I will have MCRacing put it in.

Thany you everyone for your responses. I love this forum!

[00 Trans Ram]

FYI - the "proper" way to do it is to have an impact wrench handy. When you get the fans off, the wrench will be able to turn the bolt. It may take repeated attempts, but it'll get it off.

Also, to get the new pulley back on, you don't need a longer bolt if you have a torch of some kind. You can heat up the inside of the pulley until it's nice-n-hot. It should slide on enough to get the bolt started. If not, it'll slide on enough such that you can put a piece of wood (2x4) against it and tap it with a hammer. Do NOT hit it hard, as you'll screw the pooch if it crooked.

But, as noted, the above ways work, too! Just some other ways of doing stuff.

[G8Smitty]

Okay, you guys talked me into it. I bought the pulley, belt and bolt. I hope to receive it for a weekend install. I'll let you know how it goes.

THANKS!

[Greg@PacePerformance]

The proper GM tool to hold the flywheel bolts in the starter location and has teeth that fit into the flywheel and keep it from spinning. Just an FYI.

[Chewy]

The proper GM tool to hold the flywheel bolts in the starter location and has teeth that fit into the flywheel and keep it from spinning. Just an FYI.

Part number price and availability? :mellow:

[g8_795]

The proper GM tool to hold the flywheel bolts in the starter location and has teeth that fit into the flywheel and keep it from spinning. Just an FYI.

That is good info. Thanks. At least I know there is a real solution to holding the engine from spinning if need be.

[EcoBrick Bob]

Underdrive Pulley Install extra.....

If you decide to purchase a second, 4 3/4 - 5 inch bolt to pull your Powerbond on, you need a 16MM (millimeter) 2.0 thread pitch bolt that is at least 4 3/4 in
120 mm. long. Stock GM Bolt is 4" long.

I ended up ordering a 130 mm bolt from Fastenal. The closest bolt was about 400 mi. away in Indiana!!!!! Arriving in 2 days. $8.00 cost.

You need to have this bolt in your possession before installing Underdrive Pulley.

Rob Moser

[GRRRR8]

Thanks Rob! I could not find my bolt to measure and list thread size/pitch.

[G8Smitty]

I presume you cannot get that bolt at bLowes?

[Blackdevil77]

Smitty it is more then worth the effort!

Is it really? I heard it only makes a 5 hp difference. I may have it done then :) not by me of corse, im not capable of doing that.

[EcoBrick Bob]

Napa store checked the bolt I got from Andy at Liverois.

My install is Tuesday. Guy was surprised that the G8 crankshaft is not keyed...


:lies:
With the $27.48 Ebay Turbocharger I bought, I am expecting 3.0 60 mph times! That silver Bugatti I saw at the beach better watch out!:pee:

Breakin Wind...

[Crazy Paul]

G8-GT 25% UD Crank Pulley.
P/N PBU 1117-SS25 Powerbond 25% underdrive balancer [same as Corvette].

Post up the new belt number.
:D

[Andy@Livernois]

dayco 5060780

[g8_795]

I presume you cannot get that bolt at bLowes?

Nope. I tried. Their metric selection was crap.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

Part number price and availability? :mellow:

Sorry for the long delay.
Here is the tool. The part number is J-42386-A (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KENT-MOORE-J-42386-A-FLYWHEEL-HOLDING-TOOL-GM-ENGINES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQihZ025QQ itemZ380064423321QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW) It is on Ebay right now for a very good price. This tool lists for $85.00 on the Kent-Moore website. This is great if you are doing anything with the balancer and don't have any help.

[G8Smitty]

Got my UDP installed last night. I used Robert’s (g9_785) “Shade-Tree” method of hold the crankshaft steady (described earlier in this post). Thanks Robert, it worked beautifully. This is really an easy job if you have the tools. Having the tools is an entirely different deal. One of those tools is the ability to generate the 240lbs of torque. :P

My regular 3 jaw puller worked, but I had to finagle it a bit to get it to work. It isn’t wide enough to pull from the base, so I had to rig it to pull from the front lip, which I felt was a little risky, but it worked for me. I also went to Oreilly and did their load a tool on the balancer installer, but it didn’t quite work. The hole in the crankshaft is quite deep before you get to the threads. The installer sleeve was too long to work. I was able to create a longer bolt using the installer and a socket as a washer (as well as addition washers). Like what was reported yesterday, the belt I had was too long. The 60750 is the right one. The funny thing is that I couldn’t remember how the belt needed to be installed and I got the 60780 to work, but it wasn’t in the proper configuration. I was able to score a replacement locally.

Overall, my car seems quicker. I’m glad I did it. Like most, I would probably recommend that it be installed by a professional. I enjoy these kinds of tasks, so I had fun. The accomplishment of doing these tasks are sometimes better than the overall reward of the finished product. I also don’t like the thought of someone beating my crankshaft with a hammer to get the balancer installed.

Thanks to everyone for you help. I really appreciate it!

--Chris

[todds87ss]

Napa store checked the bolt I got from Andy at Liverois.

My install is Tuesday. Guy was surprised that the G8 crankshaft is not keyed...




I have yet to work on an LSx motor that is keyed, although I haven't seen them all...
Don't look for a lot of dyno power with this mod. SOTP feel definately improves (as with any reduction in rotating mass). This mod is worth the money (IMO).