The OIL thread... (Ask all the questions that may arise here)

[Chewy]

All questions and information you have on oil should be put here. If you start a new thread do not be surprised if it gets moved into here. I just know that most popular forums get asked the "what's the best oil" question ALL the time so we are going to try to keep them all in one place.

Here is some great info to read over.

Oil? Ok this is motorcycle related but there is some GREAT info to learn here.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html


Filters? Which ones that may be better to use...

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html (http://people.msoe.edu/%7Eyoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html)

Videos of dyno results of using Royal Purple in your vehicle...

http://www.royalpurple.com/rp-videos.html

My view on things... You get what you pay for when it comes to everything. Oil filters and oil are no different. Mobil and K&N oil filters are about as good as you can get over the counter. Royal Purple and Redline oils are also very good. I've heard good things about Amsoil but the hype is a bit too much for me to stand. OK I'm weird like that... lol

Here are some part numbers for the K&N filters.

2008, 2009 Pontiac G8 6.0L V8 F/I K&N Oil Filter HP-1017 (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Oil-Filter-Part-88110.html) Air/Oil Filter Details (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Oil-Filter-Part-88110.html)
2008, 2009 Pontiac G8 6.0L V8 F/I K&N Air Filter 33-2919 (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Air-Filter-Part-88109.html) Air/Oil Filter Details (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Air-Filter-Part-88109.html)
2008, 2009 Pontiac G8 3.6L V6 F/I K&N Oil Filter HP-7003 (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Oil-Filter-Part-88108.html) Air/Oil Filter Details (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Oil-Filter-Part-88108.html)

Mobil 1 M1-113
WIX 57060
Delco PF48
Fram PH10060
Please add your own info and remember... This is a no spin zone! :rules: If you add part numbers to filters I will try to keep this post up to date with all of them.

The GRRRR8 forum does not assume any liability from the use of any of the suggestions in this thread.

[Andy@Livernois]

We use royal purple in all of our shop/customer cars (unless a customer specifically requests something else). We also use Wix oil filters (I use k&n on my stuff) but Wix makes the k&n filter, and the only difference is k&n has that super sweet 1" nut welded on it, which makes it easier to install/remove for the average person...

[GRRRR8]

All questions and information you have on oil should be put here. If you start a new thread do not be surprised if it gets moved into here. I just know that most popular forums get asked the "what's the best oil" question ALL the time so we are going to try to keep them all in one place.

Here is some great info to read over.

Oil? Ok this is motorcycle related but there is some GREAT info to learn here.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html


Filters? Which ones that may be better to use...

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html (http://people.msoe.edu/%7Eyoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html)

Videos of dyno results of using Royal Purple in your vehicle...

http://www.royalpurple.com/rp-videos.html

My view on things... You get what you pay for when it comes to everything. Oil filters and oil are no different. Mobil and K&N oil filters are about as good as you can get over the counter. Royal Purple and Redline oils are also very good. I've heard good things about Amsoil but the hype is a bit too much for me to stand. OK I'm weird like that... lol

Here are some part numbers for the K&N filters.

2008, 2009 Pontiac G8 6.0L V8 F/I K&N Oil Filter HP-1017 (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Oil-Filter-Part-88110.html) Air/Oil Filter Details (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Oil-Filter-Part-88110.html)
2008, 2009 Pontiac G8 6.0L V8 F/I K&N Air Filter 33-2919 (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Air-Filter-Part-88109.html) Air/Oil Filter Details (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Air-Filter-Part-88109.html)
2008, 2009 Pontiac G8 3.6L V6 F/I K&N Oil Filter HP-7003 (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Oil-Filter-Part-88108.html) Air/Oil Filter Details (http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-G8-KN-Oil-Filter-Part-88108.html)

Please add your own info and remember... This is a no spin zone! :rules: If you add part numbers to filters I will try to keep this post up to date with all of them.

The GRRRR8 forum does not assume any liability from the use of any of the suggestions in this thread.

I have a maintenance post with all this info already.

[Chewy]

You're right... You do! This will be a great place for people to ask their questions as they arise though.

Cheers,
Chris

[bobyoung]

I have always been wary of 5-30 ever since a car of mine that called for it began to burn oil at 60,00 miles and stopped getting worse after I put 10-30 in it. Anyways I put 10-30 in my G8 GT today at 2500 miles and right away it idled better, more smooth. Am I doing any damage by using this viscosity? I put Valvoline regular oil in it. The manual does recommends 5-30 and warns against 20-50 but does not say anything about 10-30. I do a lot of highway driving. This is the same manual that recommends using 87 octane for the V8 and 89 octane for the V6 so I don't put a lot of stock in it.
Opinions?

[GRRRR8]

The 10W30 will not hurt anything except fuel efficiency. You may do 5W30 if you live in a cold climate in winter.

[bobyoung]

Thanks, that's what I thought, how much lower will the gas mileage go, is there a big difference or is it negligible?

[GRRRR8]

Maybe 1 mpg with a quality synthetic.

[norm8332]

Charlie, Wont the flow be reduced? Oil pump working harder? How about the rod/crank bearings at 6200 RPMs?

You know better than me.

[Crazy Paul]

The 10W30 will not hurt anything except fuel efficiency. You may do 5W30 if you live in a cold climate in winter.

Wonder how a change is viscosity affects that junk Y'all have lurking in the valley ?

[djchubbs]

Mobil 1 and lucas oil it the only thing in my pan

[GRRRR8]

Charlie, Wont the flow be reduced? Oil pump working harder? How about the rod/crank bearings at 6200 RPMs?

You know better than me.

No. It will not reduce flow at all. It might bump oil pressure 5psi, but there is a relief valve so pressure cant get too high. The oil thing it can effect is fuel economy and help keep the lifters from bleeding down too easy.

[norm8332]

Thanks for clearing that up for me Charlie, I'd better stick with the 5w30 here in the buffalo area...It gets very cold. Its almost here. Winter. I gotta move. I'm sick of winter here. Crappy driving, freezing my butt off, salt, sand and everything eating away at our cars...Ice, snow drifts breaking parts off...ugggh

[GRRRR8]

I havent forgotten. I am from Schenectady.

[Chewy]

From Amsoils site. Oil viscosity for the layman.

When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.

Obviously, cold temperature or W ratings are tested differently than regular SAE viscosity ratings. Simply put, these tests are done with a different temperature system. There is a scale for the W, or winter viscosity grades and, depending on which grade is selected, testing is done at different temperatures. See the Tables to the right below for more information.
If you look at the table, SAE Viscosity Chart (High Temp) you'll see that if a measured amount of motor oil flows through the viscometer at 210° F (100° C) faster than 5.6 but less than 9.3 seconds, then it will be considered a SAE 20 viscosity. Consequently, if a motor oil flows through faster than 9.3 and slower than 12.5 seconds, then it will be a SAE 30 viscosity.
Now if you look at the table labeled Winter or "W" Grades, you can get valuable information on how the W or winter grade viscosities are measured. Basically, as shown by the chart, when the oil is reduced to a colder temperature it is measured for performance factors. If it performs like a SAE 0 motor oil at the colder temperature, then it will receive the SAE 0W viscosity grade. Consequently, if the motor oil performs like a SAE 20 motor oil at the reduced temperatures (the scale varies - see the chart), then it will be a SAE 20W motor oil.

If a motor oil passes the cold temperature or W (winter grade) specification for a SAE 15W and at 210° F (100° C) flows through the viscometer like a SAE 40 motor oil, then the label will read 15W-40. Getting the picture? Consequently, if the motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil on the reduced temperature scale and flows like a SAE 20 at 210° F (100° C), then this motor oil's label will read 5W-20. And so forth and so on!
I can't tell you how many times I have heard someone, usually an auto mechanic, say that they wouldn't use a 5W-30 motor oil because it is, "Too thin." Then they may use a 10W-30 or SAE 30 motor oil. At engine operating temperatures these oils are the same. The only time the 5W-30 oil is "thin" is at cold start up conditions where you need it to be "thin."
Why don't we just use a SAE 10 motor oil so we can get instant lubrication on engine start up?

The reason is simple: it would be a SAE 10 motor oil at 210° F! The lower the viscosity, the more wear will inevitably occur. This is why it is best to use the proper oil viscosity recommended by the auto manufacturer as it will protect hot and at cold start ups. Obviously a 10W-10 motor oil won't have the film strength to prevent engine wear at full operating temperature like a 5W-20, 10W-30 or 5W-30 motor oil for example.
The VI additives have the effect of keeping the oil from thinning excessively when heated. The actual mechanics of this system are a little more complex in that these additives are added to a thinner oil so that it will be fluid at a cold temperature. The VI additives then prevent thinning as the oil is heated so that it now can pass the SAE viscosity rating at 210. For example; if you have a SAE 10 motor oil it will flow like a 10W at the colder temperature. But at 210 degrees it will be a SAE 10 giving us a 10W-10 or SAE 10 viscosity rating. Obviously this is good at cold start up, but terrible at engine operating temperature especially in warmer climates. But by adding the VI additives we can prevent the oil from thinning as it is heated to achieve higher viscosity numbers at 210 degrees. This is how they make a petroleum based motor oil function for the 10W-30 rating. The farther the temperature range, like with a 10W-40, then more VI additives are used. With me so far? Good, now for the bad news.

Drawbacks of Viscosity Improving additives
Multi-grade motor oils perform a great service not being too thick at cold startup to prevent engine wear by providing more instantaneous oil flow to critical engine parts. However, there is a draw back. These additives shear back in high heat or during high shear force operation and break down causing some sludging. What's worse is once the additive begins to be depleted the motor oil no long resists thinning so now you have a thinner motor oil at 210 degrees. Your 10W-30 motor oil can easily become a 10W-20 or even a SAE 10 (10W-10) motor oil. I don't have to tell you why that is bad. The more VI additives the worse the problem which is why auto manufacturers decided to steer car owners away from motor oils loaded with VI additives like the 10W-40 and 20W-50 viscosities.
The less change a motor oil has from high to low temperatures gives it a high Viscosity Index. Synthetic motor oils that are made from Group IV (4) PAO base stocks have Viscosity Indexes of more than 150 because they are manufactured to be a lubricant and don't have the paraffin that causes the thickening as they cool. But petroleum based motor oils (Group I (1) & II (2)) usually have Viscosity Indexes of less than 140 because they tend to thicken more at the colder temperature due to the paraffin despite the addition of Viscosity Improving additives. The higher the Viscosity Index number the less thinning and thickening the motor oil has. In other words, high number good, low number bad. Low numbers thicken more as they cool and thin more hot. You see these Viscosity Index ratings posted on data sheets of motor oils provided by the manufacturer.
As already mentioned, VI improving additives can shear back under pressure and high heat conditions leaving the motor oil unable to protect the engine properly under high heat conditions and cause sludging. Also there is a limit to how much viscosity improving additives can be added without affecting the rest of the motor oil's chemistry. Auto manufacturers have moved away from some motor oils that require a lot of viscosity improving additives, like the 10W-40 and 20W-50 motor oils, to blends that require less viscosity additives like the 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 motor oils. Because stress loads on multi viscosity motor oils can also cause thinning many racers choose to use a straight weight petroleum racing motor oil or a PAO bases Synthetic which do not have the VI additives. But only the Group IV (4) PAO based synthetics don't need VI additives. Read on to learn why:
What about synthetic motor oils? Do they need Viscosity Additives?
Group IV (4) and Group V (5) base oil (synthetics) are chemically made from uniform molecules with no paraffin and don't need Viscosity Additives. However, in recent years Group III (3) based oils have been labeled "synthetic" through a legal loophole. These are petroleum based Group II (2) oils that have had the sulfur refined out making them more pure and longer lasting. Group III (3) "synthetic" motor oils must employ Viscosity Additives being petroleum based.

Group V (5) based synthetics are usually not compatible with petroleum or petroleum fuels and have poor seal swell. These are used for air compressors, hydraulics, etc. It's the Group IV (4) PAO based synthetics that make the best motor oils. They are compatible with petroleum based oils and fuels plus they have better seal swell than petroleum. Typically PAO based motor oils use no Viscosity Additives yet pass the multi-grade viscosity requirements as a straight weight! This makes them ideal under a greater temperature range. One advantage of not having to employ Viscosity Improving additives is having a more pure undiluted lubricant that can be loaded with more longevity and performance additives to keep the oil cleaner longer with better mileage/horsepower.
How do I know what motor oil is a Group IV (4) based PAO synthetic motor oil?

As more and more large oil companies switched their "synthetic" motor oils to the less expensive/more profitable Group III (3) base stocks it has become much easier to identify which are PAO based true synthetic. Of the large oil companies, only Mobil 1, as of this writing (12-15-2007), is still a PAO based true synthetic. The rest, including Castrol Syntec, have switched to the cheaper/more profitable Group III (3) petroleum based "synthetic" motor oil. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are PAO based true synthetic motor oils with the exception of the short oil drain XL-7500 synthetic motor oils sold at some Auto Parts Stores and Quick Oil Change Centers. This leaves more than 20 PAO based true synthetic motor oils manufactured and marketed by AMSOIL with only 4 Group III (3) based synthetic motor oils identified by the "XL-7500" product name.

[norm8332]

As more and more large oil companies switched their "synthetic" motor oils to the less expensive/more profitable Group III (3) base stocks it has become much easier to identify which are PAO based true synthetic. Of the large oil companies, only Mobil 1, as of this writing (12-15-2007), is still a PAO based true synthetic. The rest, including Castrol Syntec, have switched to the cheaper/more profitable Group III (3) petroleum based "synthetic" motor oil. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are PAO based true synthetic motor oils with the exception of the short oil drain XL-7500 synthetic motor oils sold at some Auto Parts Stores and Quick Oil Change Centers. This leaves more than 20 PAO based true synthetic motor oils manufactured and marketed by AMSOIL with only 4 Group III (3) based synthetic motor oils identified by the "XL-7500" product name.


I wasn't aware of this part. good info.

[Chewy]

I wasn't aware of this part. good info.


Yeah I posted that info in my oil thread which this thread has now been merged with.

[bobyoung]

This has convinced me, next change is to a group IV synthetic and 5-30 at least for the winter here in beautiful MA.

[SS Enforcer]

I run a 10w-60 full synthetic oil in mine so far see,s to work well and quitens down my lifters.

[Chewy]

I run a 10w-60 full synthetic oil in mine so far see,s to work well and quitens down my lifters.

I don't think I've seen 10W60 here before...

[todds87ss]

Wonder how a change is viscosity affects that junk Y'all have lurking in the valley ?

Chupacabras??? I don't they are affected by my oil viscosity!:uhm:

[jbradsh1]

I have read that Mobile 1 is one of the very few synthetic oils that is mainl oil, i.e., not as much additive. Other synthetics evidentl are putting more additives in an effort to reduce cost or so I've read. I wish I could remember the source but if I do I'll post it. Anyway, I use mobile 1 and I believe that is what my car came with from the factory.

[Chewy]

I have read that Mobile 1 is one of the very few synthetic oils that is mainl oil, i.e., not as much additive. Other synthetics evidentl are putting more additives in an effort to reduce cost or so I've read. I wish I could remember the source but if I do I'll post it. Anyway, I use mobile 1 and I believe that is what my car came with from the factory.

All the stuff says it comes with dino!

As far as Mobil being synthetic... It has synthetic additives but it's just a really really good group III dino base stock. Royal purple, Redline and some others are TRUE synthetics.

Read the article I posted. Not saying it's written in stone but seems feasible to me.

[99-LS1-SS]

Great info in this thread. I have a much better understanding of oil and how it works. Thanks guys!

[Chooch]

The artical said Mobil 1 is the only group 4 true synthetic from the large oil companies. I researched that and that is why I use it in my cars after the 1st oil change. Never ever had an engine failure, a part wear down. I have not been able to find Amsoil nor Royal Purple around my area so I go to good ole Walmart and get a 5 quart jug of 5-30 for 25 bucks..... but now I need 2 aaaahhhhhhhh

[Chewy]

To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics.

This is what I read...

[GEE8GEETEE]

What's the difference between using the 0w-30 and 5w-30. Never heard of the 0w-30, so is the 0w-30 better ? Is it ok to use in our cars ?

[jnak]

The number in front of the "W" is the winter rating. 0w oil can be pumped at a lower temperature than 5w oil. I don't think it would hurt to use 0w-30 but I don't think you need 0w-30 either.

[GEE8GEETEE]

but it's suppose to give better gas mileage too correct ? Can you swap back and forth between the two ? I'm mostly asking since they were out of 5w-30 but did have 0w-30. so i figured i'd just grab that. Wanted to know the pros and cons of 0w-30.

[FL_G82]

I just made the switch to Mobil 1 5w-30 at 5500 miles. My mileage went up by 2 whole points. Not bad!

[jnak]

but it's suppose to give better gas mileage too correct ? Can you swap back and forth between the two ? I'm mostly asking since they were out of 5w-30 but did have 0w-30. so i figured i'd just grab that. Wanted to know the pros and cons of 0w-30.

I'm not an oil expert by any means, but I'm pretty sure the 30 part of the weight indicates that once it's at operating temperature, 5W-30 and 0W-30 will be the same. So it shouldn't really have much effect on mileage. The only difference is how they flow in cold temperatures.

[EcoBrick Bob]

PAN GASKET LEAK UPDATE!

I installed Mobil 1 5w-30 at 2,500 mi. Pan gasket started leaking at about 11K!

Talked with mechanic today. When pan was off, he checked rear seal and claimed it wasn't leaking. He too was surprised the pan gasket would drip. Also surprised leak wasn't seal... Guess I'll find out if he is correct!

[GEE8GEETEE]

Does anyone here actually use 0w-30 and if so why did you choose it?

[Chewy]

I've used it before in my P/U truck when it was a daily driver. I would only use it in the cold weather though. It cranked easier and oil flowed quicker because of it.

0W30 won't really offer better fuel mileage over 5w30. 5W20 however WILL!

[GEE8GEETEE]

Oil types are such a PITA nowadays. Way too many different variations. I thought that the 0w-30 flows the same as 5w-30 in warmer weather so it wouldn't make much of a difference.

[Chewy]

Oil types are such a PITA nowadays. Way too many different variations. I thought that the 0w-30 flows the same as 5w-30 in warmer weather so it wouldn't make much of a difference.

It really is only beneficial in colder climates or if you do a lot of cold starting.

Chris

[GEE8GEETEE]

But it shouldn't have any downsides correct ?

[MissNaySimon]

I put Valvoline SynPower 5W30 in mine. I work in an auto center and sell the stuff all day, so I'll only put the best in my car. Except for a few variations, all oil is the same company to company. I would NEVER put Quaker State or Pennzoil in my car. But, I won't pay extra for the Mobil 1 brand name over Valvoline or Castrol. I definitely won't spring for Royal Purple, either.

[Chewy]

But it shouldn't have any downsides correct ?

Nope!

[Chewy]

I put Valvoline SynPower 5W30 in mine. I work in an auto center and sell the stuff all day, so I'll only put the best in my car. Except for a few variations, all oil is the same company to company. I would NEVER put Quaker State or Pennzoil in my car. But, I won't pay extra for the Mobil 1 brand name over Valvoline or Castrol. I definitely won't spring for Royal Purple, either.

Syn power isn't true synthetic like RP and redline to name a couple. It's just a highly refined dino with synthetic additives.

It's a good oil though.

[jetttstream]

We sell Royal Purple, but we also sell Eneos.

Who wants to try 0w50 full synthetic?

:) check 'em out: http://www.eneos.us/

Also--check this out:

lsxTV did a dyno comparo--- 0w50 in a LS1 vette

"We gained almost 8 wheel horsepower from the Eneos 0W50.
"

http://www.lsxtv.com/forum/testing-0w50-eneos-oil-ls1-c5-916.html

My supplier also ran his TBSS bone stock on the dyno and swapped out the oil to Eneos to see for himself and also netted a 'corrected' (as he put it) 8rwhp gain--so I'm waiting on the dyno graphs...

Sorry to sound like a commercial! Sham wow!

-Mike

[gearhead455]

but it's suppose to give better gas mileage too correct ? Can you swap back and forth between the two ? I'm mostly asking since they were out of 5w-30 but did have 0w-30. so i figured i'd just grab that. Wanted to know the pros and cons of 0w-30.



IMO,use what your manual says.That's why they call it an "owners manual" everything you need to know and what to use for your car.
That said....5w-30 is the recommended oil weight. Why would you use any different?

As far as using synthetic oils,IMO yes AFTER break in period.For increased mileage,less carbon deposits and faster starting in colder weather.IMO using synthetics on a brand new engine may not let the parts "seat "properly (cam,lifters,rings ect...)

I'll be switching to Mobil 1 5w-30 at 1000 miles,my first oil change.:)

[ronbuick]

Anyone run a 5-40 syn oil, and Valv. synpower is a full synthetic, where did you get your info?? The reason for a 5-40 is it meets Euro specs and usually costs a little more too. So next change in a month or so I will install either Chevron or Valv. full syn. oils.

Rons

[Chewy]

I got my info here. http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html Sounds like a lot of the "synthetic" oils out there are just high grade dino with synthetic additives poured in.

[95_9C1]

What oil comes in the engine from the factory, is it Mobil 1?

If it is Mobil 1, how long should I leave it there, as far as the break in period is concerned?

[BigRob]

What oil comes in the engine from the factory, is it Mobil 1?

If it is Mobil 1, how long should I leave it there, as far as the break in period is concerned?

Yes, i do believe the gxp does come with mobil 1 syn. I changed mine at 1k, then 3k then 5k to Royal Purple.

[Chooch]

I switched to Mobil 1 at 4K. My wifes 2003 Caravan was switched to syn at 10k. All I can say for sure is in winter, in her car, 0w-30 makes starting quick and no tap/slap from the engine and it has 105k miles on it. We brought it in to the Shop to do my yearly check, compression test to check, and it had close to 96% across all 6 cylinders. That at least to me is why I use it. As with the G8, I use Mobil 1 5w-30 year round. The caravan I use 0w-30 winter and have recently switched to 5w-30 back due to spring. My history with Mobil 1 is my last 3 cars icluding my wifes cavelier, my Neon, My ALero all had 150k miles before we got new cars. So far so good so I am sticking with it. I just trust it, but again, this is my experieince.

[Vertical]

Thank you OP, very good read.

[95_9C1]

Yes, i do believe the gxp does come with mobil 1 syn. I changed mine at 1k, then 3k then 5k to Royal Purple.

BigRob, did you go to dino oil after 1K or stay with syn the whole time?

So far, I'm planning a change to dino at 500, then back to syn at 2500 miles.

http://tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:m_DT5peiOwLltM:http://www.tvacres.com/images/dino.jpg

[BigRob]

i have a gt, and gts come with dino from the factory. from my understanding, the gxp comes with mobil 1 syn factory (this isnt set in stone, this is just what i read and understand to be true.) i changed at 1000 with dino, 3k with dino, then 5 to royal purple. i hear dino is better for break in. however, i think i am going to go with mobil 1 on my next change, because of the fact that it is endorsed by gm, and many people say they have no issues. RP seems great, but i think the next one im going to give mobil 1 a shot.
ive heard from numerous sites that dino is better anywhere from 3k-6k for break in.

[gearhead455]

8 quarts? or 8.8 like the manual say's? dealer told me 8. :uhm:

[norm8332]

8 quarts? or 8.8 like the manual say's? dealer told me 8. :uhm:

The dealer put only 6 in mine, never count on the dealer. 8.8.

[z51l9889]

Another good site for oil information is www.bobistheoilguy.com (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com).

I've been using Mobil 1 for almost 20 years now with zero issues, including heavy road course use in 100 degree weather. I do oil changes every 9000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. I also have used Castrol Syntec with good results. I use 5W-30 unless I am running a track event, then I switch to 15W-50.

[G8GT721]

i was looking over the install specs for the APS TT kit and it said
Ensure that the engine oil grade utilized is suitable for use with gasoline turbocharged engines.
Will the Royal Purple Kit from Pace be sufficient?

[pha|anx]

European Formula Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (ACEA A3, Benz 229.5, BMW LL-01, all GM specs, virtually all specs on earth AFAIK) for mine, and only that. Filters by Wix. :nah:

[gearhead455]

Got my oil changed today 1800 miles. Service manager recognized me right away from our previous spat about how much oil it takes (I said 8.8 he said 8) he said "I told the mechanic to put in 8 and check it and add more if needed" well when my car was done he said you were right it does take 8.8 quarts,I just smiled at him and drove away.

On a side note,while the oil was being changed I asked the manager about the tranny service bulletin about the slow shifting,I asked him if my car had that done,he looked on the puter and said "yes we did it last August 22nd" I laughed to myself at this statement since my car was delivered to another dealer in the area and my dealer got it for me from them 2 months ago. lol

[uh6tdrvr]

The answer for the last page is YES, all of the HP cars come with mobile1. vette, viper, gxp.....M1 from the start!

[Gris]

Hi, first post here. I picked up a demo 2009 GT last week with 100 mi on it, (thrilled with it , great car!) However as the build date was a year ago I had the dealer change the oil, (time factor, poss. condensation), but when I got home (30 mi) and checked it I saw the level was an inch over the maximum fill mark on the dip stick. The manual cautions strongly to not overfill so I advised the dealer and they insisted it was filled to spec. Anyway I siphoned off the overfill and noticed no changes in driving it but I'm curious as to what damage overfilling the oil by 1 in. (about 2 quarts) can cause and what the symptoms would be. The siphoned off oil looked dark brown for new oil.

[jbradsh1]

Hi, first post here. I picked up a demo 2009 GT last week with 100 mi on it, (thrilled with it , great car!) However as the build date was a year ago I had the dealer change the oil, (time factor, poss. condensation), but when I got home (30 mi) and checked it I saw the level was an inch over the maximum fill mark on the dip stick. The manual cautions strongly to not overfill so I advised the dealer they insisted it was filled to spec. Anyway I siphoned off the overfill and noticed no changes in driving it but I'm curious as to what damage overfilling the oil by 1 in. (about 2 quarts) can cause and what the symptoms would be. The siphoned off oil looked dark brown for new oil.

If it looked dark brown, well, they probably didn't change it. Just called to pick mine up at the dealer and I asked what the bill was for the Maintenance 2 service. The cashier said $36.74 and I said huh? Knew right away they had put in regular oil instead of Mobile 1 (had talked it over briefly with the service manager when I dropped it off and he said yep Mobile 1 for the G8 GTs). Had to had them change it again, with a new oil filter, and all is good now. But I tell ya, sometimes .....

[Gris]

If it looked dark brown, well, they probably didn't change it. Just called to pick mine up at the dealer and I asked what the bill was for the Maintenance 2 service. The cashier said $36.74 and I said huh? Knew right away they had put in regular oil instead of Mobile 1 (had talked it over briefly with the service manager when I dropped it off and he said yep Mobile 1 for the G8 GTs). Had to had them change it again, with a new oil filter, and all is good now. But I tell ya, sometimes .....

Yeah, I have little trust in my small dealer & G8 - I think they've only sold 2 total. I was worried maybe they didn't really change the oil too but then it probably shouldn't be dark brown after just a 100 miles (or overfilled from factory either), so probably they did. I was thinking that driving with overfilled oil maybe could have made it dark? I'd still like to know what damage could have occurred.

[PolRoger]

How many of you (more experienced modders) out there recommend an early oil change on a new car? I've now got ~1000 mi. on mine and I was thinking of changing mine early. I've already purchased some Mobil 1 (5W-30) and a K&N (HP-1017) oil filter.

[gearhead455]

What brand oil filters are you guys using? and why?

[buick gn]

Should use the viscocity the manufacturer recommend, the Engineers that designed the engine with a viscosity in mind are no dummies. I used 5w30 synthetic on my Buick Roadmaster (Impala SS in disguise with LT1 engine) all year round, oil viscosity as recommended by GM. I used 5w30 synthetic on my Buick Grand National all year round the viscosity as recommended by GM. I drove both these cars hard and over rev them all the time. Both these cars had CAI, free flow exhaust, and computer tune. I put 580,000 kilometers on the Roadmaster and still ran better than when it was new, the Grand National had 190,000 kilometer and ran better than it was new. A kilometer is 0.6 of a mile. The Grand National was stolen and I replaced the Roadmaster with 2009 G8. The synthetic brand I use is what ever brand name is on sale. I changed the oil on my G8 at 5000 km with Mobil 1 synthetic because it was on sale. I used Fram oil filters for last 30 years with no problems, but I will not use Fram oil filters any more due to low ratings from oil filter reviews. I live in the Toronto area and we get extreme cold in the winter and hot tempertures in the summer. My two cent worth.

[Identity Crisis]

I was going to use Redline oil but I cant find a whole lot of info on it other then whats on their own site. And when I put into Google synthetic oils etc it seems like all there is, is a plethora of information on AMSoil.

[mcduff]

While I will be changing to synthetic after studying this thread some more, I did have to get the G8's rear seal fixed at the dealer. I noticed that there was some oil on the engine pan and tranny pan. Supposedly there is a factory advisory about this and the dealer repaired it without any problems. Just a note for everyone to keep an eye out. I am getting to hate this stock shifting though and may need to upgrade in the near future.

[G8GT594]

How many of you (more experienced modders) out there recommend an early oil change on a new car? I've now got ~1000 mi. on mine and I was thinking of changing mine early. I've already purchased some Mobil 1 (5W-30) and a K&N (HP-1017) oil filter.

I know this is an older post and not sure if you have already changed it or not. But at 1000 miles that is perfectly fine. I changed mine to RP at 2000.

[Identity Crisis]

I am almost at 3000kms and about to change the oil. I am switching to Synthetic but which type I don't know. And for a filter I will use a K&N.

As far as oil guys, I can get Castrol 0W30 for about $8cdn or Redline 5W30 for $10.50cdn. I don't know which one is better.......

[pha|anx]

As far as oil guys, I can get Castrol 0W30 for about $8cdn or Redline 5W30 for $10.50cdn. I don't know which one is better.......

Castrol; PAO, ACEA A3/A4, BMW LL1, Benz 229.3 (meets all specs save Benz 229.5, which only EDGE 0w-30 Euro spec meets... whos gonna let their oil go 56k km's without changing anyway? lol), cheaper, etc. heaviest 30 weight AFAIK, could've been classified as a 40 weight. 0 winter rating is great for us north of the 49th too lol. forget CAFE standard dino oil junk, these things in Aus need a 40 weight, and cut no corners.

:brock:

[Chewy]

0W30 in the cold ass winters and 5W30 the rest of the time IMO.

Redline is a HELL of a good oil... No issues with that one...

I use a AC filter on mine with Royal Purple oil that I get from Greg at Pace Performance (vendor here)

[JAM]

I've got a few old cases of RP. After seeing this site - I hope they are old enough:
http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1300

JAM

[Identity Crisis]

Nice find. A lot of reading but worth it.

Anyway I picked up 9 1L bottles of 0W30 Castrol Syntec from Germany. I hope that does it.

[pha|anx]

Nice find. A lot of reading but worth it.

Anyway I picked up 9 1L bottles of 0W30 Castrol Syntec from Germany. I hope that does it.

it will. I buy it by the box. if its good enough for all the European stuff and the 'Vette guys, its good enough for the G8 lol.

[steve b.]

i have 2000 miles on car, going to washington for vacation 750 miles should i change the oil

[steve b.]

what about castrol edge oil

[norm8332]

i have 2000 miles on car, going to washington for vacation 750 miles should i change the oil

I would if that is the oil that came with the car, Standard oil this time, then synthetic if you want after.

[pha|anx]

what about castrol edge oil

as indicated above, its entire range is all class IV PAO (polyalphaolefin; poly-alpha olefin's) based formula's. they meet and exceed virtually all the standard specifications, but the formula's vary greatly depending on where you are on the planet. the Australian's get far more formula's than we do, and those in the UK get the most to my knowledge (including Edge 0w-30-- to trump Euro formula Syntec 0w-30 which is also a class IV). the class III's are all hydrocracked based formula's, and not necessarily the 'true synthetics' they are advertised to be lol. Royal Purple comes to mind when I think of a class III, whereas AMSoil or Castrol's Edge for class IV. typically speaking the PAO's outperform the hydrocracked stuff according to the standards and spec's they meet. all are good oil's, but some are better oils.

its not only about what the oil is made of, but about what certification standards it meets, passes, or exceeds. www.bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of good reading. they have a thread from last year (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1137824) answering which is what and by who you can check out. I made mention of it earlier in this thread but specs like; ACEA A3, BMW LL-01, Benz 229.3, GM-LL-A-025, ILSAC GF-3, are worth a google (notice all the bobistheoilguy threads that come up). there are a number of good noteworthy oils that pass few, some, most, or all of these standards commercial availability of said aforementioned oil's is another thing to consider. Castrol Edge and Syntec 0w-30 European Formula, AMSoil's product line (minus the XL or Extended Life stuff [class III]), Mobil1's European formula's, are all example's of PAO's that'll pass or exceed most of the toughest standards. I use the Syntec 0w-30 Euro stuff because I can buy it almost anywhere I go lol. I've never seen Mobil1 European formula stuff anywhere I've ever shopped for oil, and I'm sure as hell not going to order shit online.

oil is one thing, but filters are another. an oil is only as good as a filter its paired with, otherwise filters that wear out before long term change interval oil's break down, are pretty important notes to consider.

I had a lot of spare time on my hands back in February one day to do some research on this topic lol.

:charlie2: :nutkick:

/rant lol

[Virus]

We use royal purple in all of our shop/customer cars (unless a customer specifically requests something else). We also use Wix oil filters (I use k&n on my stuff) but Wix makes the k&n filter, and the only difference is k&n has that super sweet 1" nut welded on it, which makes it easier to install/remove for the average person...

Andy, Champion labs makes the K&N filter and the Mobil 1 filters. As a matter of fact, if you cut both open you will see they use the exact same filter media. K&N uses more media, but filtering tests show the extra media doesn't equate to better filtering.

[Virus]

I just did my first oil change today. My 2009.5 manual says 8 quarts even. I've seen so many posts from people stating 8.8-9 quarts. After changing, I parked my car on a fairly flat surface and it appears to be half way between low and full, indicating 8 quarts is enough. What gives?

[gearhead455]

Going in for my second oil change at 5000 miles,putting in Mobil 1 from here on out.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h309/bluesman455/4thofJuly021.jpg

[drewcifer]

anyone know anything about amtecol fully synthetic oil. i know they are based in california and i read the spec sheets and all the info on their website. i was just wondering if anyone has used it or heard anything about it. it sounds pretty good, it's hard to find though, but it's cheap if you do find it.

[SpeedRacerX]

Yes, lots of great information and thoroughly confusing. Too many choices. :wacko:

I see no one replied about the Eneos 0W50 oil making 7-9 RWHP. Not believable?

Time for my first oil change. I was leaning Mobil 1 but I can get Royal Purple at my local Walmart, my normal oil change guy has Amsoil synthetic and now there's the Eneos stuff.

What the heck should I do???

[G8GT594]

Royal purple is my choice. 2nd would be Amsoil, 3rd would be Mobil 1.

[xruling]

I have always been wary of 5-30 ever since a car of mine that called for it began to burn oil at 60,00 miles and stopped getting worse after I put 10-30 in it. Anyways I put 10-30 in my G8 GT today at 2500 miles and right away it idled better, more smooth. Am I doing any damage by using this viscosity? I put Valvoline regular oil in it. The manual does recommends 5-30 and warns against 20-50 but does not say anything about 10-30. I do a lot of highway driving. This is the same manual that recommends using 87 octane for the V8 and 89 octane for the V6 so I don't put a lot of stock in it.
Opinions?

When the engine/oil is warm, all the oils ending in 30 are all going to be performing equally as far as viscosity goes.

The 0W, 5W, 10W factors-in only when the oil/engine is cold. So, the difference between 5W and 10W is that, when cold, the 10W will not be as thin as the 5W and will not flow as well. If the engine is not designed for 10W when cold, then 10W will not provide sufficient lubrication. "Cold" is a relative term, based on the temperature and design of the engine, so to understand when you can/should use which ??W, you need to follow the chart in the owner's manual.

[Chewy]

When the engine/oil is warm, all the oils ending in 30 are all going to be performing equally as far as viscosity goes.

The 0W, 5W, 10W factors-in only when the oil/engine is cold. So, the difference between 5W and 10W is that, when cold, the 10W will not be as thin as the 5W and will not flow as well. If the engine is not designed for 10W when cold, then 10W will not provide sufficient lubrication. "Cold" is a relative term, based on the temperature and design of the engine, so to understand when you can/should use which ??W, you need to follow the chart in the owner's manual.

Agreed!!!

My F-150 has had 5w30 or 0w30 (winter) in it since new and it too uses oil. A lot of cars use oil though and it isn't something to be alarmed at. As long as it's not smoking or using an incredible amount you're OK. I always use the intended viscosity in my vehicles. I even run 5W40 in my bikes.

[mtolivecracker]

My question:

I have 5 qts of MOBIL 1 5w-30, and 5 qts of Pennzoil synthetic 5w-30. can i mix them for my oil change?

[pha|anx]

My question:

I have 5 qts of MOBIL 1 5w-30, and 5 qts of Pennzoil synthetic 5w-30. can i mix them for my oil change?

My answer:

Yes. motor oil is motor oil. the chemical additives or detergents may be different but especially since the 2 are the same category (Hydrocracked Group III), weight and winter rating they should be very similar to one another.

[R.Penguin]

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Factory_Fill/Vehicles_Filled_Mobil_1.aspx

Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic engine oil has been the factory and recommended service fill for all Porsche engines since 1996.

Click here to learn more.



More Makes and Models
In addition to being in all Porsche engines, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:

Acura RDX

Aston Martin DB9 and DBS
All Bentley Vehicles
Bristol Fighter and Bristol Fighter S

All Cadillac Vehicles
Chevrolet Cobalt SS S/C Coupe

Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06

Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS

Chrysler 300C SRT-8

Dodge Charger SRT-8 and Viper
All Holden HSV
Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT-8

Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles

Mercedes SLR McLaren

Mitsubishi Evolution and Lancer Evolution FQ400
Nissan GT-R
Opel GT

Pontiac Solstice GXP
Saab 9-3 TTId

Saturn Sky Red Line

Vauxhall VXR8

Mobil 1 5W-30 is a high performance fully synthetic engine oil designed to exceed the industry's toughest standards and outperform all conventional oils.



Full specs for Mobil 1 5W-30

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-30.asp

If this is bullshit, Mobil has a serious problem. :ban:

[pha|anx]

Mobil 1 5W-30 is a high performance fully synthetic engine oil designed to exceed the industry's toughest standards and outperform all conventional oils.



Full specs for Mobil 1 5W-30

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-30.asp

If this is bullshit, Mobil has a serious problem. :ban:

like I said in an earlier post, all the European and Australian formula's differ greatly than our own North American ones. one could argue they are much better motor oil's period. Mobil1's Euro spec 40 weight formula's are all Group IV PAO's for instance lol. we can't buy that stuff domestically here at all, at least not that I've seen locally other than online (definitely not worth the extra $$$ when we have PAO's available domestically). I'm not an expert on all of this, but I've done my fair share of research over the years.

:nah:

AMSoil (XL or Extended Life are Group III Hydrocracked), Castrol EDGE, and Castrol Syntec 0w-30 European are all we have available domesetically for Group IV PAO over-the-shelf oil's. depending on where you live, that might be a different story.

[gearhead455]

Just got my Mobil one oil change at the dealer today,it was my second one, I got home and checked the oil life monitor they didn't reset it(no big deal) I checked the dipstick and it was between the top and middle holes, what do the holes mean? middle hole would be one quart down?

[SRG963]

After updating myself on this thread, I'm buying Castrol Ege 5W30 and K&N HP1017 filter next go round :)


Thanks for all the helpful info guys!

[GN driver]

This has convinced me, next change is to a group IV synthetic and 5-30 at least for the winter here in beautiful MA.

I bought an 05 Dodge Magnum 5.7L hemi new. As you all know it also had a DOD system for mpg improvement. In those engines 5-30 was required for proper operation of the lifters in this system. Supposedly, DOD was out the window if the wrong weight oil was used.

[Identity Crisis]

I have used Castrol 0W-30 Syntec Euro in the winter and it ran great.
Summer last year I used AMSoil 5W-30

I am now thinking of using the Edge 0W-30 Syntec that is finally here in Canada. If not I will just use the Mobil 1 this time and change it sooner.

I am using the AMSoil Oil filter with my changes though too.

[BigRed585Lbs]

I tried to just post the pdf, but it wouldn't work, so use the link in the first post of this:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1900434

[incon3037r]

only AMSOIL oil and filter for me

[Identity Crisis]

Thinking of trying the Mobil 1 0W40 next.

[CanadianEh]

After the cam install I ran some 5W-30 for initial start up and when I went to change it out it was way to runny (runnier then water, almost like a stain)

After seeing that I decided to go with 20W-50 royal purple XPR fully synthetic. Mad expensive but being synthetic it seems to be about where it should be seeing as it starts out much thinner.

[todds87ss]

anyone ever run a Bypass oil filter setup on a gasoling engine? I just read a Government study that installed bypass units on Gov't Tahoes, and extended the oil drain interval to 10-12K with no issues. I just installed one of these in my Ford diesel, but have never seen one in a gas powered car. Amsoil says that you can go 25K or more between oil drains with their setup. Starting to peak my interest...I am currently looking for a place to tap into the oil system, and a port to return back to.

[Sephiroth]

After updating myself on this thread, I'm buying Castrol Ege 5W30 and K&N HP1017 filter next go round :)


Thanks for all the helpful info guys!

Penzoil Ultra is another good product, it's avaliable at wally world and UOA's on bitog put it right up there with top tier oil such as edge

Also, for those not in the know... e-core delcos are starting to replace our PF-48s, they differ in having felt endcaps instead of steel caps and plastic core supports. I'll let people make their own judgements on whether it affects them or not, seeing as it hasne't been mentioned and many people here probally use them (myself included this OCI before I found out) I thought it relevent to mention.



anyone ever run a Bypass oil filter setup on a gasoling engine? I just read a Government study that installed bypass units on Gov't Tahoes, and extended the oil drain interval to 10-12K with no issues. I just installed one of these in my Ford diesel, but have never seen one in a gas powered car. Amsoil says that you can go 25K or more between oil drains with their setup. Starting to peak my interest...I am currently looking for a place to tap into the oil system, and a port to return back to.

There's nothing distinguishable between a diesel and gas engine that would cause an issue, infact amsoil offers gas bypass oil filters for several trucks. I believe it's just not seen on gas vehicles as often since typically, fleet diesel vehicles are run on extremely long OCI's anyway, and it's impractical (and hugely expensive) to do even 5-7.5K OCI's when you have 10-15+ quarts of oil. On a consumer vehicle, the OCI and acutal miles/year are short enough that it doesn't matter too much, or it may be because trucks that these things are designed for typically see off-road or heavy debris duty. oil filters today can filtrate down to < 30-40microns on any decent quality filter, and oil bypass systems extend that typically to sub 10micron filtration. So you really have to ask if it's worth it at that point, as additives in the oil you're using may not even do 10-15K changes, and if it does, are you acutally going to put the 100K/year on the engine or run on dirt roads most of the time to justify the extra expense of the kit/more expensive oil? Bearing in mind, most engines today will do 200K very easily when run on non synthetic oils and regular filters.

I would also not believe any amsoil advertising.. if you want some data, go look for UOA's on bitog. They (amsoil) have been repeating the same song for the last few decades, and are no more ahead in the game than they were before.

[texn884]

I am running Royal Purple now and with their filter. I am trying to see if the oil change place can get the folks are RP to run my car as a test vehicle since I drive 60K a year and maybe they would cover some of the cost at change time. Full synthetic is the only way to go.

[Sephiroth]

I can't trust a company(like RP or Amsoil) that responds with single ASTM test that isn't even relevent in modern engines to a competitor VOA's, and bases their 'increased' hp numbers on a brand new oci. I don't doubt it's a good oil, but if I were to spend $$$ for "the best" I'd be looking @ Motul.

[texn884]

Well on my colorado 2004 it just turned 383,000 all amsoil in the engine, tranny and rear end. Can't get much better than that. But what do I know.

[Sephiroth]

Well on my colorado 2004 it just turned 383,000 all amsoil in the engine, tranny and rear end. Can't get much better than that. But what do I know.
I see, if I told you the 500,000 mile honda down the street was using regular supertech synthetic would you believe me? As I said before, modern engines are built to last. To suggest it was because of amsoil your engine has lasted 383K and not say, that you maintained it well is a stretch imo.

[Virus]

I love how these oil threads always turn into a personal grudge fest. I've used Amsoil since 1994 and always adhered to long drain intervals up to 20k or so. I've never had any issues. Don't really care which oil is best when the difference between best and really good is so small.

[Sephiroth]

I love how these oil threads always turn into a personal grudge fest. I've used Amsoil since 1994 and always adhered to long drain intervals up to 20k or so. I've never had any issues. Don't really care which oil is best when the difference between best and really good is so small.
I was simply suggesting that it's likely because he's taken care of the vehicle instead of it being the oil, because there's really little proof beyond 'well I've used such and such for X miles' that X brand oil is what caused it to last that long. Why is that considered a personal grudge?. In synthetic (no pun intended) testing differences can be pretty large. In an acutal car however.. I agree, it doesn't matter. Anything will last as long as you take care of it the correct way.

[john ny.]

dealer puts 9qts. mobil 1. in my g8 GXP. 8 was reading low. whats the corect amount? can't find oil lite or vascosity level info. either dealer says doesn't have one ..?

[laserred]

Mobil 1 and lucas oil it the only thing in my pan

Check out bobistheoilguy.com and search for the Lucas oil additive, I'd rethink my choice about that if I were you... :)

[-Ray-]

dealer puts 9qts. mobil 1. in my g8 GXP. 8 was reading low. whats the corect amount?

8.8

[Kermit]

Question,
I have RP right now in the GT but will be going to the dealer to have them fix my oil leak. I'm almost positive that they will be putting dino oil back in. Will that be okay until I do my next oil change in 2,000 miles or should I get that dino oil out as soon as possible and put the synthetic back in. Real question is it okay to mix the two for a short period of time? I mean it was some what mixed when we drain the dino and put in synthetic! I would just like to keep with my schedule of changing it every 6,000 if no harm would happen.

[john ny.]

g8 gxp, can't find oil service lite. either can my dealer. no reference to in manual.???

[Virus]

g8 gxp, can't find oil service lite. either can my dealer. no reference to in manual.???

What do you mean oil service light? Hold your left silver scroll on your steering wheel down while you are starting your car. Cycle through all the information until you hit the oil life monitor. You might consider taking it to another dealer if he doesn't know this.

[john ny.]

thank you. will try another dealer.

[Virus]

You can also find this information in your Onstar account if it's still active. You can find out all types of stuff in the engineering mode I referenced in the previous post. Trans temp, oil life, etc.

[Savage-wp]

Just had a read through this thread, and i see most of you are running 5W30. Just had a look in my owners manual, and it recomends 5W30.
The agents here in South Africa have been selling me 5W40 for the car.
Which one would be the better oil. I use the car for drags, and track days.
I'm guessing that since the manufacturer says 5W30, that would be the one to go for.
Also, would the lifters be quieter on the 5W30, or 5W40.

[DRCUSTOMPARTS]

5w40 is a better choice since you're racing it, because the viscosity is higher (40w) at operating temp. If the lifters are ticking at startup, both grades will be the same since they are both 5w when the motor is cold.

[Savage-wp]

5w40 is a better choice since you're racing it, because the viscosity is higher (40w) at operating temp. If the lifters are ticking at startup, both grades will be the same since they are both 5w when the motor is cold.

Thanks for the reply. The lifters are actually fairly quite at startup. After banging the car for a while, i can hear some lifter / valvetrain noise. I know it's pretty normal to hear your valvetrain when you have headers on the car. I just like a motor to be as quite as possible.

[john ny.]

how do i find oil life monitor? 2009 g8 gxp.

[Savage-wp]

how do i find oil life monitor? 2009 g8 gxp.

Hold down the left scroll wheel button, then start the car (while still holding the button)
This will get you into engineering mode, now you can scroll to the oil life monitor.
To reset the oil life monitor, turn the ignition switch to the on position, don't start the car, fully depress the accelerator 3 times in 5 seconds. Switch off and then back on.

[BigRed585Lbs]

Whatcha think?

http://www.gmdexos.com/licensedbrands.html

[SavageHenry26]

So for living in Miami where it might drop down to 30 or 40 degrees, what would be a good oil to run. I am going to use Royal Purple or Mobil 1 synthetic.

[rjones916]

I use Mobil 1 0w-40 European formula, I find that to be the best oil around for the price, usually on special @ Advanced or Autozone with a filter....I've used Royal Purple, and it's very good, just super expensive. I tried the regular Mobil 1 5w-30 and had to top off the oil semi-regularly...no burning with the 0w-40.

[ULTRA Z]

Does anyone here actually use 0w-30 sig series and if so why did you choose it?

I have and i do it in 20,000 mile intervals with amsoil however i will be switching to there 5w30 sig series soon

also i ran there 0w30 sig series in my tahoe for a solid year and went 43,000miles on it with only filter changes. The oil was still useable and the metal contint was min. according to the sample anyways. the motor ran crazy strong and it was one of the few 02 tahoes i know of that got 22-23 mpg so everything had to be in good shape. Note i only did that as a test since if i would have had engine failure and i didn't i could replace that motor for $500 all day long

[pha|anx]

just switched to Mobil1 0w-40 for this oil change. MB 229.5 certified, higher than the European Formula Castrol Syntec 0w-30's 229.3. The numbers represent potential oil life in mileage. 229.5 dictates 25,000 US miles IIRC.

[Lucifer]

I've used Mobil 1 0W-40 on my last few cars with excellent results, just changed the GXP's oil at home for the first time. While at SEMA back in 2003 I spent a good amount of time with the Mobil reps, according to their engineers that attended the show, the 0W-40 is their best oil with the largest antiwear additive package.

Quick question; I'm finding the dipstick hard to read. On my LS2 GTO I could clearly see the line but not so on this LS3 stick. I filled the filter prior to replacing it and then added 7qts. Can't tell if I'm over or under. I think I'll pull her out tomorrow, take a quick spin and then check again.

[pha|anx]

should be 8 quarts for both LS3 and L76, should it not? 8-8.8 or thereabouts. mine is generally 8 at any rate. I ran the oil life monitor to nearly 0% when I did the change on mine. I might as well have had dark water in there, because I noticed a HUGE difference with the change this time to the fresh 0w-40 over the 0w-30 European Syntec.

[Virus]

It's 8 quarts for the 09.5 and GXP. 8.8 for the 08-09 GT. I can tell you without a doubt that my 09.5 is sitting at the top full line with 8 quarts.

[jeff]

Anybody Have a good current address on where to send oil to be tested?? How it has to be shipped,expected price?? Probably need a website to some who have used a company to check.I have never had a Test performed so all new to this. Any info would be great. I searched some on info but figure I should ask a Exp. guy on this.Thanks!

[LDM]

Anybody Have a good current address on where to send oil to be tested?? How it has to be shipped,expected price?? Probably need a website to some who have used a company to check.I have never had a Test performed so all new to this. Any info would be great. I searched some on info but figure I should ask a Exp. guy on this.Thanks!

Check out Blackstone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com/).

[jeff]

Check out Blackstone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com/). OK ....Thanks LDM!

[fixem2]

Your local AMSOIL dealer can get you the test kit as well.

[todds87ss]

still trying to find M-1 0W40. Where does everyone get it?

[fixem2]

Why do you want to run a 40W oil? Do you road race or autox heavily?

[todds87ss]

check out the specs for M1 0W40. It's actually very close to a 30wt oil in viscosity, and perfect for extended ODIs.

[pha|anx]

I've got an oil analysis container here waiting for spring time... when that finally comes, I will send in a soap sample of my Mobil1 0w-40 and post results for those curious. FWIW. todds87ss, north of the 49th the stuff is pretty common. I've even seen it in some gas stations and even convenience stores lol. should be pretty easy to find in oil central USA.

[todds87ss]

not as easy as you would imagine...