10" subs in stock location?

[rumbler]

Anyone put 10" subs in factory location?
I've searched here and in the "other" forum and people that swap out the stock 8" subs replace them with aftermarket 8" subs. Considering the amount of trouble they go through to make the aftermarket 8's fit and to eliminate rattles, wouldn't a 10" upgrade be better?
Rumbler

[GT-610]

big 'ol np to that one! I wouldnt use the stock location if you bought the subs for me!

keep those crappy stockers right where they are as passive radiators and install a new box.

[fourthmeal]

First post... I just couldn't let the misinformation go as-is.

Don't use other speakers as passive radiators. PR systems need to be tuned to work effectively and often they need to be weighted as well.

What you are asking, if I understand the question, is can you upgrade the infinite baffled factory "subs" to something more substantial. While I do not YET own a G8 of my own, I regularly build systems and I can offer some info here. Assuming the sub you choose is optimized for IB use which means the sub will have some special specs to handle the purpose, you should be fine. Ideally it will have close to .707 Qts, it will have a stiff suspension to avoid bottoming, and it will hopefully have some excursion potential.

I would recommend any IB situation be carefully examined. Look for holes or paths for the sub's back wave output to make it to the cabin area, and plug them. Ideally, the trunk would be hermetically sealed for an IB setup, but in the real world all we can do is optimize as close as possible to this.

If this is not possible, consider the possibility of choosing subs that are more tuned to a small sealed box, and build them one in the trunk above the rear deck.

Either way, I'd recommend that you reinforce that back deck quite thoroughly.

[jkayner]

You would have to cut out the rear deck to be able to fit 10" subs in there. Stock there is a 8" riser where the subs fit, they are not mounted directly to the metal. This is why people just replace the speakers. It could be done, I'm sure, but not worth it IMO. The rear deck would be pretty flimsy for a quality 10" sub. Just build a box if you want to use 10's.

[rumbler]

I've read the posts of how others installed 8's in the deck. Everyone bent/cut/modified the metal anyway. Everyone also deadened the deck.
My point was "IF" you're doing an IB install, why not just take it to the next level? Make a bigger hole, add some plywood and run real subs.

Another IB option for the lunatics-Laminate some plywood to the flat foreward facing metal behind the seat backs. Install 2-12's or 2-15's firing foreward through the seat backs.
IB(free air) installations are viable-it's all in the execution.

[GT-610]

fourthmeal has got it.....skip the deck mount its not worth the work like jkayner says as well... get a box

[jkayner]

I've read the posts of how others installed 8's in the deck. Everyone bent/cut/modified the metal anyway. Everyone also deadened the deck.
My point was "IF" you're doing an IB install, why not just take it to the next level? Make a bigger hole, add some plywood and run real subs.

Another IB option for the lunatics-Laminate some plywood to the flat foreward facing metal behind the seat backs. Install 2-12's or 2-15's firing foreward through the seat backs.
IB(free air) installations are viable-it's all in the execution.

with the bigger 8's they are only cutting the lower part of metal where the magnets are visible. With 10's you would have to cut a bigger hole in the top of the rear deck and not use the tubs that the 8's are in stock.

If you are set on it go for it and post some pictures, etc when done.

[ForexOnlineTrue]

I am a dumbass spammer. I was banned by George.

[Paniller]

lol, bannination!

Anyway, to contribute, even the 8" subs are almost too much for that rear deck. I have two Kicker CVR8's with 175w each, and they vibrate the crap out of the deck, even with tons and tons of soundproofing. (Though be it elemental design's 80mil, which is mediocre I hear now. Still though, many layers. Heavy liquid deadener on both sides, then 2 layers of stick-on on top)

And yes, the 8's hit pretty hard, but like it was said, they're too much for that flimsy deck already. 10's would be impossible to hold steady. Also, like he said, the 10's drop right in. You may just need to bend the one edge of the metal down so the magnet doesn't rub. You'll see the cutout has one edge kind like flat instead of a circle. You just need to bend that edge down 1/4" or so. 20 second job with pliers.

[fourthmeal]

With virtually every IB install, you need to reinforce the deck. Not just sound proof it! You can't use CLD mats as metal or wood. All they can do is lower resonance.

If you strengthen that deck w/ a 3/4" MDF form cut properly, you'll get what you want.

[Paniller]

With virtually every IB install, you need to reinforce the deck. Not just sound proof it! You can't use CLD mats as metal or wood. All they can do is lower resonance.

If you strengthen that deck w/ a 3/4" MDF form cut properly, you'll get what you want.
Damn, I thought that's what they were for, adding mass. I guess I could go in and add some mdf across the bottom, but I'd hate to ruin the look inside the trunk...anyone know a good match for the trunk carpet? I'll just carpet the underside as well.

[fourthmeal]

My thoughts here are that you could simply carpet it with black or "heather" trunk liner.

With regard to adding mass...consider that you can stick mud to your car and that adds mass, but it doesn't make it more rigid, right? It just makes it heavier.

[Paniller]

My thoughts here are that you could simply carpet it with black or "heather" trunk liner.

With regard to adding mass...consider that you can stick mud to your car and that adds mass, but it doesn't make it more rigid, right? It just makes it heavier.
I wasn't worried about it vibrating/moving, I was only concerned about the sound. I thought the tar/butyl would eliminate all audible noise.

I'll just make a customer mdf board that bolts to the bottom of the deck. Painted black with a nice smooth leading edge, and it should look fine.

[fourthmeal]

sound like you are on the right path...just keep in mind that the more solid a baffle you make, the better it will sound. Both for resonance issues (added noise is no good), and for the purpose that your sub's own movement force will not work against itself and cancel itself out. You know how much audible output a speaker has if the baffle it is attached to moves with the cone? Not much! When you build it, consider building a brace across the bottom which doubles as a trim piece. Metal or a strong hardwood, perhaps.

[NDM]

I wasn't worried about it vibrating/moving, I was only concerned about the sound. I thought the tar/butyl would eliminate all audible noise.

I'll just make a customer mdf board that bolts to the bottom of the deck. Painted black with a nice smooth leading edge, and it should look fine.

Here is an idea... have done it in the past...

to do IB 10's simply remove the factory subs, make a baffle that mounts under the factory deck and bolt it in multiple spots on the rear deck. This will stiffen the rear deck up alot. You will have to use a nut above the rear deck, below the rear deck, on top of the baffle and below the baffle. You can do this with threaded rod and nuts and washers.

Now make sure you leave space between the baffle and the rear deck for the sub's excursion plus about a half inch.

once you have the baffle bolted up to the reardeck....make some framing around the sides....secure the sides until the cabin is sealed off from the trunk and then remove the baffle but leave the threaded rods in place by unscrewing the bottom nuts. seal the baffle with silicone on the inside edges and apply foam weather sealant from the hardware store to the edges that will contact the rear deck. You can also cover the baffle with the carpet at this time. Now install the subs and bolt the baffle securely for good.


there you have it....the subbass will be forced through the factory holes and the rattling should be gone because the baffle with all the stiffening bolts will have stiffened the rear deck up considerably....

Best part is....This can be done really cheap and you will still have tons of trunk left.

Oh and you wont have to fold the seat down to hear the bass.


You can check out some of my installs in my links below...I have been doing this for many years so if you need any tips please ask...