Brake job

[wreckwriter]

Planning on doing a minor brake overhaul soon. I'll be doing the following items, in this order, one wheel at a time, starting at right side rear:

1- Swap brake lines to Russel SS lines
2- Bleed using Motive bleeder and DOT 4 fluid
3- Remove calipers
4- Clean area with spray Brake Clean
5- Paint calipers with G2
6- Swap pads to Hawk HPS
7- Reassemble

Anyone see any issues with any of this? Any gotchas? I have all the parts already except for the pads.

Considering removing and painting the brackets too. Any special tools (like huge Torx drivers or anything) required for this?

[Big Daddy G8]

I put HPS pads on a few weeks back. Had to file a bit on the metal backing plates themselves to get them to fit in the metal "shims" for a lack of a better word. That was the only way they would go in.

Had to do the same to a car we ran in the 24hrs of lemons in the spring using the HPS pads as well.

[wreckwriter]

I put HPS pads on a few weeks back. Had to file a bit on the metal backing plates themselves to get them to fit in the metal "shims" for a lack of a better word. That was the only way they would go in.

Had to do the same to a car we ran in the 24hrs of lemons in the spring using the HPS pads as well.

Thanks much! Maybe the Hawk pads aren't the best option? I've heard good things but if they don't really fit without modification...........

['02 ws6]

Even if you have to file them, they're still well worth it.
BlackBerry8830/4.2.2 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/104

[wreckwriter]

Even if you have to file them, they're still well worth it.
BlackBerry8830/4.2.2 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/104

I think that depends how much you have to file them. 5 minutes, yes, 2 hours, no.

[Chewy]

I've also noticed that with pads in the past... They press cut the backing plates so a bit of filing can be necessary but it's uber easy.

Let us know how it goes for ya.

Chris

[confused2much]

Considering removing and painting the brackets too. Any special tools (like huge Torx drivers or anything) required for this?

IIRC the brackets just used a socket a little larger than the calipers. They weren't too bad to remove at all. I had more problems fitting everything back together than getting it apart to paint. I took mine completely apart and sanded everything before I sprayed them with paint.

Only advice I have is to use disposable latex gloves when reassembling them. That way if you get any dirt/grease/brake fluid/etc on your gloves you can throw them out and put a fresh pair on. I did this with the last 3 of mine cause I had to repaint the first after assembling it because the grease wouldn't clean off and I left a couple of fingerprints :spank:

[PerfectD3]

Planning on doing a minor brake overhaul soon. I'll be doing the following items, in this order, one wheel at a time, starting at right side rear:

1- Swap brake lines to Russel SS lines
2- Bleed using Motive bleeder and DOT 4 fluid
3- Remove calipers
4- Clean area with spray Brake Clean
5- Paint calipers with G2
6- Swap pads to Hawk HPS
7- Reassemble

Anyone see any issues with any of this? Any gotchas? I have all the parts already except for the pads.

Considering removing and painting the brackets too. Any special tools (like huge Torx drivers or anything) required for this?


You may already know this, but when doing the SS lines, turn the stockers about a quarter turn to get them off the holders. Same thing with SS lines when putting them on.

[wreckwriter]

You may already know this, but when doing the SS lines, turn the stockers about a quarter turn to get them off the holders. Same thing with SS lines when putting them on.

No, I don't know. Trying to visualize what you mean.... Turn the line itself, right?

[confused2much]

Yeah the line itself has a round circular plastic piece that locks it in place. Its flat on two sides and you have to turn it to lift it out of the holder.

[wreckwriter]

Yeah the line itself has a round circular plastic piece that locks it in place. Its flat on two sides and you have to turn it to lift it out of the holder.

Gotcha. Thanks!

[confused2much]

I stole this pic from someones thread on this forum, but I highlighted the piece were talking about.

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/745/dsc01621.jpg

[wreckwriter]

I think my main concern is the amount of fluid that's going to pour out when I take the lines off.

[PerfectD3]

Fronts will dribble out alot of fluid, rears not much at all. The fronts I had alot on my rags/hands, but the rears I had one rag dampened and my hands were dry of brake fluid. I'm thinking about draining my fluid out and refilling the entire brake system. I couldn't find just a DOT4 fluid, only DOT3/DOT4. Not sure if it matters but Im hoping there isn't any ill effects from it. For all 4 lines I went through a half a bottle when all was said and done.

[wreckwriter]

Wagner makes several DOT 4 fluids.

[rclinton]

I would replace the bleed valves with speed bleeders, especially with the Motive bleeder. They make the job so much easier. I use the Motive bleeder and speed bleeders on all my autos.

[wreckwriter]

I would replace the bleed valves with speed bleeders, especially with the Motive bleeder. They make the job so much easier. I use the Motive bleeder and speed bleeders on all my autos.

Yea, I already have those also.

[G8V8]

Can you bleed the lines with the old pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed method. I'm about to change lines to SS.

[wreckwriter]

Can you bleed the lines with the old pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed method. I'm about to change lines to SS.

Sure you can.

[VENOM]

never liked Hawks. Always squeeled. I have had Wagner thermo-quiets on my past 2 cars and they were amazing. Quite, little dust, stopped well.

[wreckwriter]

Pads are done; snap simple. Took longer to get the car on jackstands. Lines tomorrow, maybe paint depending on weather.

[GT-610]

i was thinking of hawks as well,but do they squeek for anyone else?
that will drive me nuts,especially if stop squeal wont help.

hey,Wreck! how many miles did you get out of the stockers? I am at 24k and still have like to them,but I dont now how much more-and i dont take it easy,either!

[wreckwriter]

Old pads still have plenty left at 15k. Doing this for want, not need.

[wreckwriter]

Done except for test and burnishing.

[MichaelG8]

Thought I'd post my experience today:

Did a brake overhall on my 09 today.
1: All new Rotors (Centrik blanks, bought from Tirerack)
2: All new Pads (Carbotech Bobcats)
3: Completely Flushed brake fluid (replaced with ATE Super blue)

I pretty much dove right into without much information. After searching and searching I could not find any hard facts about proper bleeding sequence or whether or not there were any hang-ups I might encounter. Getting this car jacked up period is a huge PITA.

Firstly, My rotors were damn near WELDED onto the hubs. All of them. I couldnt believe it. The driver's sides were the were worst for some reason. Had to beat on them pretty good with a mallet for about 5 minutes each. I did a similar brake job on my 2000 Trans Am. Those factory rotors popped right off. This car is only a year old, and they felt like theyd been rusting to the hub for ages.

Once I had the Caliper and rotors off, I cleaned all parts and the new Rotors themselves. Popped everything back on after compressing the pistons in the caliper. Torque specs were another small issue. I had found a pdf file on the other board showing what all torque specs should be for each brake component. The one that didnt seem right was the torque spec for the front Caliper Bracket bolts. Where it bolts to the steering knuckle. The specs I found said:
Fist pass - 44 lb/ft
Second pass - 120 degrees
The 120 degrees part didnt seem right. With a large breaker bar i was only able to get maybe 30 degrees out of it. There is absolutely no way to get that bolt to turn another 120 degrees after torquing it to 44 lb/ft. I basically just made it as tight as I could get it with the breaker bar.
The rears were basically the same procedure, except for a nice simple 81 lb/ft torque spec on those bracket bolts. All guide pin bolts were torqued to 31 lb/ft.
Once all pads and rotors were on and secure, I went on to bleeding. I had a friend help me witht his. Since I couldnt find any evidence that disagreed with them standard brake bleeding procedure, I went ahead and did them that way. Starting at the furthest caliper (right rear) and working my way closer. Made sure all of the dirty/bubbly stock fluid was completely flushed out. These cars will basically use One full liter of brake fluid to fill the system.
I took the car out and bedded in the pads. 4 stops from 60 to 20. about 3 minutes of cool down. Then another series of four hard 60 to 20 stops. And then a long cool down period.
So far the brakes have felt great. I did this overhall mainly because of bad pulsation i was feeling on high speed stops. It got very bad when the brakes were very hot. I also did not feel comfortable using the stock pads for much longer. I took this car on a road course a while ago, and havnt touched the brakes at all until today. Pads had plenty of meat left, but did not look to great. They were starting to crack/crumble a little.
Price for this project comes in at about $540 with the liter of fluid. Carbotech pads are a bit pricy. About twice that of the equivalent Hawk pad. Took me and my friend almost 4 hours at a leisurely pace.

[GotMyG8V8]

Good info, i'm going to be attacking my brakes this spring, will definitely check out the parts you got MichaelG8. Man I love this forum, makes doing most any job a snap.

[dklau33]

On such a heavy car such as ours, the stock pads just don't stand up to road course abuse. Your Bobcats with the hi temp ATE fluid should fare much better the next time you do a HPDE day.