Battery terminal wires

[jboogie]

Anyone know what the 2 red wires with the black stripe on the pos battery terminal go to? They are the ones that connect to what looks like 60 amp fuses.

[jboogie]

anyone.....???

[-Ray-]

I tried to post a schematic but my program was being weird.

[-Ray-]

I tried to post a schematic but my program was being weird.


Sorry, it's not either one of those. I'll keep trying. :D
OMG, I quoted myself.

[jboogie]

Whats weird is that the wires are 16awg and connected to 60A fuse lookin things. If i remember correctly from school.. thats just askin for a fire but they are there..

[wreckwriter]

Time to revive an old thread. Paul gave me an answer to this once, or at least a clue, but I can't find it. Anyone know what these circuits are?

[LDM]

Are you talking about the wires that go to the rear fuse block? The fuse block with the fuel pump, ONSTAR, etc fuses that's right above the battery?

[wreckwriter]

No, the fuse block thats part of the positive terminal.

[LDM]

Don't the wires from that fuse block on the terminal go to the rear fuse block I mentioned?

[wreckwriter]

Don't the wires from that fuse block on the terminal go to the rear fuse block I mentioned?

I dunno :/

[LDM]

Unless I'm reading the schematics from my service manual wrong, I believe they do. The schematic I posted in your alternator thread shows the "Fuse Block - Auxiliary" which has two 60-amp fusible links. The schematics for the rear fuse block show power coming from two 60-amp fusible links via a red/black wire, but it calls it the "Fuse Block - Battery Cable." I'm pretty sure the "Auxiliary" and "Battery Cable" fuse blocks are the same thing based on the rear wiring component view. If you need this info for the disconnect switch, you'll need to kill the power to those two 60-amp links somehow because one of them feeds the fuel pump. I can scan more schematics for you if they'd be helpful, I'm just not sure how much you need.

[wreckwriter]

I have AllData too but just having issues figuring out which wires need to go. I guess I could pull the positive terminal off while running and see if the car dies....

[LDM]

What exactly is it that you're trying to do? Make it so the car dies when you turn a switch, or kill all power to everything? I know your car is pretty much just a drag car at this point, but never having been to the track myself, I'm not familiar with all the rules and whatnot.

[wreckwriter]

What exactly is it that you're trying to do? Make it so the car dies when you turn a switch, or kill all power to everything? I know your car is pretty much just a drag car at this point, but never having been to the track myself, I'm not familiar with all the rules and whatnot.

Make the engine shut off with a switch.

[LDM]

Well of those two wires coming off the battery terminal with the 60-amp fuses, it looks like one supplies power to stuff like the radio, audio amp, XM and instrument panel while the other one powers the fuel pump and ECM. I think killing power to those two things alone would probably shut off the engine pretty quick. Which wire is which, I don't know, but just remove only one of them and with a voltmeter see if you still have 12V at the fuel pump fuse in that rear fuse block. That will tell you if you picked the right wire.

[Napalm]

I replied in probably the wrong thread. But for your kill switch, you need to follow the line from the generator again. there are 2 of them. one completes the line to the under-hood fuse/relay panel which in tern feeds the ECM/TCM and other stuff. that splt also goes to the battery + line, as it passes up by the IP fuse panel. IE the generator is a junction block of sorts.

without putting your interrupter between the generator and the harness, it can power parts of the car by itself without the battery.

[LDM]

I replied in probably the wrong thread. But for your kill switch, you need to follow the line from the generator again. there are 2 of them. one completes the line to the under-hood fuse/relay panel which in tern feeds the ECM/TCM and other stuff. that splt also goes to the battery + line, as it passes up by the IP fuse panel. IE the generator is a junction block of sorts.

without putting your interrupter between the generator and the harness, it can power parts of the car by itself without the battery.

These are all good points. The other issue though is that the Auxiliary Fuse block back on the battery terminal itself supplies power to both the ECM and fuel pump as shown in this schematic:
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/Misc%20Pics/PowerDistRearBlock.jpg

If for some reason the fuel pump relay shorted closed, disconnecting the underhood fuse box from the battery or alternator wouldn't kill the power to it.

[Napalm]

Option: wire in a contactor between the battery terminal and the cable, and another contactor between the alternator + and the harness. then wire both contactors in series, off the battery power with your disconnect switch. then as long as the switch is on, and the battery is providing 11+ volts, then the + circuit of the car is active and connected.

kick the switch to off; both contactors break and close, and the + system of the car is dead. computer modules think the battery is disconnect and the alternator just died. alarm might go off once the battery is re connected.