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View Full Version : Pedders EP6560 & 1169 install advice



PerfectD3
03-29-2009, 11:16 AM
Anyone take any pictures or done a how to on these pedder bushings? I am going to use the EP1167 how to, but would like one on these as well. If not, I'll make one for the 6560 & 1169. Would someone mind snapping photos of their locations so I know where they go? I've done alot of engine work in my day but never done any thing relating to the suspension and am a little hesitant. I don't know what torque etc. to tighten everything back up with and I didn't receive any instructions from Pedder.

GRRRR8
03-29-2009, 11:21 AM
These bolts are torque to yield and should be replaced. It should be done on a lift as well. I did one yesterday and one of the subframe bolts broke when trying to remove! WTF! I got it out, but I will offer kits soon to replace all this torque-to-yield crap.

PerfectD3
03-29-2009, 11:36 AM
Torque to yield mean one time use? Doh, that's gonna suck. I'm taking it to auto hobby shop on base and get to use their lifts / tools for $4/hr. I'm just not sure where these bushings are located. Got any advice on what bolts I need to get (like at HomeDepot or what not)? I was going to do this Mon or Tues after work. If not, I'll wait for your kits.

-Ray-
03-29-2009, 11:38 AM
Torque to yield mean one time use? Doh, that's gonna suck. I'm taking it to auto hobby shop on base and get to use their lifts / tools for $4/hr. I'm just not sure where these bushings are located. Got any advice on what bolts I need to get (like at HomeDepot or what not)? I was going to do this Mon or Tues after work. If not, I'll wait for your kits.

You should post this in the Pedders forum. DMS from Pedders will read and help out as well.
I can move it if you want.

GRRRR8
03-29-2009, 11:39 AM
GM only on the sub-frames, but I should know by Tuesday on the replacement bolts for them.

PerfectD3
03-29-2009, 11:45 AM
G8 Ray - Feel free to move this to the Pedders forum.

Grrrr8 - Do you know the part numbers for the subframe bolts? What torque do I apply for torque on yield?

GRRRR8
03-29-2009, 11:51 AM
I have it at work, but its torque and then so many degrees.

PerfectD3
03-29-2009, 01:12 PM
I'm lost bud, how do I figure out the degrees?

GRRRR8
03-29-2009, 03:02 PM
Once I find out I will post the degrees. You use a torque angle meter. Degrees would be like 90 degrees, 120 degree rotation of the bolt.

dms
03-29-2009, 04:00 PM
Here are the torque specs for the back end

http://forums.peddersusa.com/imagehosting/749d00b0317557.jpg


Now the info I have, that is based on Si documents that I have copied from mid last year, does not show the rear cradle bolts as TTYs. So do you have Si documents that you can share that indicates any differently?

thanks for the help

mike
dms

Jaysin
03-29-2009, 05:12 PM
Anyone take any pictures or done a how to on these pedder bushings? I am going to use the EP1167 how to, but would like one on these as well. If not, I'll make one for the 6560 & 1169. Would someone mind snapping photos of their locations so I know where they go? I've done alot of engine work in my day but never done any thing relating to the suspension and am a little hesitant. I don't know what torque etc. to tighten everything back up with and I didn't receive any instructions from Pedder.

I'm doing a writeup on the 6560 install.

Here's one for the differential bushings I did

http://www.stlg8s.com/tutorials/differential/index.htm

Here's one for the 1169

http://forums.peddersusa.com/showthread.php?t=476

PerfectD3
03-29-2009, 06:25 PM
Thanks Jaysin, I figured it would be easy! My only Q is since Im doing this on a lift and not jacks, what should I do around step 23 for the 1169 install since I'll lower the whole car and not just the front?

Jaysin
03-30-2009, 05:55 AM
Thanks Jaysin, I figured it would be easy! My only Q is since Im doing this on a lift and not jacks, what should I do around step 23 for the 1169 install since I'll lower the whole car and not just the front?

There is no need to lower the car at all. In step 17 your jacking the rear cradle into place. 18 through 22 your inserting all your subframe bolts (without loctite). In step 23 your just removing the jack as it was only supporting the cradle prior to getting the subframe bolts started and snug. in step 24 with no jack support you remove one subframe bolt at a time to put loctite on and torque.

I don't work off a lift, but I would imagine you would substitute a tranmission jack for the floor jack. But no need to lower the car.

PerfectD3
03-31-2009, 04:21 PM
Hey man if you still have the original write up in word or whatever send it my way. Since it's saved as a jpeg it loses alot of quality (mostly the font) when printed on an 8.5x11 paper. I can make it into a higher quality pdf for you.

PerfectD3
03-31-2009, 05:36 PM
Alright now I am completely confused. What bolts / nuts need to be replaced with these when they are put on and what are their GM part numbers (or equivalent) so that I can buy them? Why didn't Pedders just include these nuts & bolts that need to be replaced with their respective kits?

Jaysin
04-01-2009, 06:37 AM
Alright now I am completely confused. What bolts / nuts need to be replaced with these when they are put on and what are their GM part numbers (or equivalent) so that I can buy them? Why didn't Pedders just include these nuts & bolts that need to be replaced with their respective kits?

I didn't replace any bolts or nuts with any of the items listed above, except the nut for the radius rod bushings, and pedders supplies new ones with the bushings.

Most of the bolts and nuts are listed in the GM manual as single use, because thread locker comes on a new bolt. Just clean the thread lock (loctite) off the old bolt and apply loctite upon reinstallation, unless you receive a new bolt and/or nut with your new suspension part.