Pulley removal - help!

[00 Trans Ram]

OK - I feel like a complete moron. I've built a prepared racecar from stock, and I can't figure out how to change the pulley on my car!

I got the bolt off, and stick on a gear puller. Well, that didn't go so well, as I broke the lip of the stock pully while tightening down the puller.

So, I went to the store to get a proper "harmonic balancer puller". After 5 stores, I finally found one. But, when I get home, there are no holes to thread the bolts into!

As a last try, I reattach the gear puller to the inside spokes of the stock pulley and start tightening it up. Well, it's on there so tight that I start bending the threaded rod of the gear puller!

So - how do you get the stock pulley off?

[Chewy]

You have to use the right puller. One for an LS1 motor will work. I found one on line for 55 bucks I think.

[GRRRR8]

OK - I feel like a complete moron. I've built a prepared racecar from stock, and I can't figure out how to change the pulley on my car!

I got the bolt off, and stick on a gear puller. Well, that didn't go so well, as I broke the lip of the stock pully while tightening down the puller.

So, I went to the store to get a proper "harmonic balancer puller". After 5 stores, I finally found one. But, when I get home, there are no holes to thread the bolts into!

As a last try, I reattach the gear puller to the inside spokes of the stock pulley and start tightening it up. Well, it's on there so tight that I start bending the threaded rod of the gear puller!

So - how do you get the stock pulley off?
The puller will have 3 L shaped legs that hook from the inside with a rod that slides in the end of crack to press off of. OTC 6267 is the correct tool. Can be had cheap at a discount online tool place.

[Chewy]

The puller will have 3 L shaped legs that hook from the inside with a rod that slides in the end of crack to press off of. OTC 6267 is the correct tool. Can be had cheap at a discount online tool place.

You need a tool loaner program huh?

I give you say 75 bucks you ship it, I use it and when you get it back you credit 60 bucks to me...:boobs:


Works for me!

[00 Trans Ram]

I appreciate the offer for tools - but I kinda want this done soon.

I think I'm going to run by Thunder Racing today and see if I can borrow one.

[GRRRR8]

They should have 1.

[00 Trans Ram]

They should - I just hope they'll let me borrow it. I'm pretty sure that I can have it swapped in under 30 minutes if they can let me borrow a stall.

[G8Smitty]

So what ended up being the solution? I want to get the pulley too, but I will have to put it on myself (cheap bastard). I don't want to start something I can't finish though.

[-Ray-]

Chris, Call Charlie, he'll make sure you are armed with all the correct tools and information to do it.

[GRRRR8]

By all means. Anyone wanting tech info or just an extra "just in case" Post or PM your situation............or crisis!

[00 Trans Ram]

Oh - got the right tool, but haven't had a chance to chhage anything. It's all sitting in the cargo net in the back of the trunk.

[G8Smitty]

I presume this is true, but I'll ask anyway. Is it best to remove the pulley when the car is hot? :poof:

[GRRRR8]

Cooler is better on the skin! Hot does not ease removal.

[00 Trans Ram]

In fact, I'd wager that it makes removal harder. Heat expands things. The heat, in this case, would radiate from the crank to the pulley. This means that the pulley would be cooler than the crank.

[GRRRR8]

Correct Sir.

[G8Smitty]

Hmmm... I was using the analogy of removing wrist pins from pistons. I would have thought that the crankshaft would have less expansion than the pulley due to the denser metal. Bad assumption I guess.

[GRRRR8]

You are right in the metal temp theory, but I have done 100s of balancer removals and I found if you have the right remover/installer temp makes no difference other then easier on the skin.

[G8Smitty]

Experience > Logic :o