Npg+

[PerfectD3]

Is this stuff worth it? I just read about GMHTP mag's use of it. Is the Dexcool stuff on par with it?

[G8GT721]

is this what your talking about Evans NPG+ coolant?
http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

[PerfectD3]

Yes sir that would be it. Is it better or is the dexcool suffice?

[newman27]

This product (http://evanscooling.com/products/coolants/) appears in the latest issue of High Performance Pontiac. Anyone using this? Would NPG+ improve engine performance? Jay Leno seems to like it :)

[tchr49]

I've been doing some searching on the Evans and other sites. Evans contact people are very prompt in replying to any questions posted. When the car comes out in the spring, I'm going to give it a try.

[newman27]

I've been doing some searching on the Evans and other sites. Evans contact people are very prompt in replying to any questions posted. When the car comes out in the spring, I'm going to give it a try.

I think I might too. I like the idea of never having to replace the coolant again and isn't a cooler running engine going to put out more power? The Evans site doesn't make any performance claims that I can find but it seems to make sense. Evans is focused on better fuel economy, environmental friendliness, and reduced maintenance costs. That's all good too...

[jcmGT]

I like the "Because Evans Waterless Coolants do not contain water electrolysis and corrosion are also eliminated."

Well, few minutes with Mr. Google.... I'll pass on this stuff.

Clipped from 3si.org:

"Evans coolant is 100% propylene glycol...no water added. Cool thing is it doesn't boil until 360F. Thats great when you think about localized boiling around the cylinders causing hotspots with conventional...with Evans there's no way you're going to get hotspots in the combustion chamber that can possibly cause knock. Bad thing is propylene glycol's specific heat isn't all that great. That effectively makes your radiator act like its smaller than it really is. That also means that when your engine makes a fixed amount of heat the Evans coolant temps will rise more than water will. That's all fine and dandy when you remember that it won't boil until 360F...it has plenty of overhead. The bad thing is the fans run more often than they should since the stock computer thinks you're getting hotter than you should be. The other bad thing is your oil temps go up from the extra heat in the block so you need a nice big oil cooler to manage things. Granted Mobil 1 says its good for 400F but I know most road racers shut things down at 300F. Other negatives to the Evans coolant are the cost and the large expansion rate range of the fluid with temperature swings.

Plain water with Water Wetter (or a similar surfactant like purple ice or stay cool) keeps temps the lowest. Problem with it is a boiling and freezing protection. Water wetter doesn't do anything significant to the boiling or freezing point of plain water. The best protection for boil over is adding conventional antifreeze but that will increase your actual coolant temps. If you want to increase the boiling point while avoiding antifreeze you need to crank the system pressure as high as possible. The highest pressure cap I could find is the TRD at 1.5 kg/cm2 (21.75 psi) which will raise the boiling point to 262-263F. Of course with the high pressure comes the chance of busting hoses. Water Wetter does contain corrosion inhibitors but they don't hold up for too long. Redline reccomends replenishing or replacing the Water Wetter every 15,000 miles. "

Caveat Emptor

[Chewy]

I looked at this stuff a while back. If I remember right, you have to get rid of every bit of water in your coolant system first.


Sent from my iDevice using data nodes and algorithms.

[TonyKarter]

IMHO adding Water Wetter to the recommended ratio of water/antifreeze is about as good as you are going to get without going NASA, and even then the results will only improve nominally over sans WW. The physical science of heat transfer is absolute and unforgiving. There is no such thing as a free lunch. Water still offers the best overall performance when all things are considered, and Water Wetter slightly improves its ability to transfer heat. I have had good cause to seek out and unfortunately, refute most professed miracle cures:

That CR-125 Honda two-stroke over there has a VERY small water jacket on it, and a very small radiator. There is not much room for error, especially if you jet it too lean. Racing it in 140+ degree track temps and 70%+ humidity fully taxes its ability to stay "cool". Water temps exiting the head must be kept within a very small range: Don't hammer down until 120 degrees or you will stick it, don't keep hammering down above 140 degrees...or you will stick it. When the telemetry on the steering wheel starts flashing red at 140 you slow down to preserve it and let it live to race again, but then you are no longer racing and contending. This small window of safety kept me quite busy for a couple of years seeking out the best cooling combination so I could keep my foot in it. (I only lean-out heat-seized a piston one time at speed. Ironically it was on a twenty-eight degree morning while practicing on an empty, almost completed new highway. Twenty-eight degrees on a dry winter morning at forty-five feet above sea level yields a awesome DA, but you can't jet the carb fat enough, nor equip it with a radiator big enough to cool it down to safely run it that hard at that low of temp. No liquid exists that will transfer the super-lean combustion heat quick enough to keep from burning it down. But, for a short time, until it stuck, that SOB was running like a scalded dog! That was the second scariest ride and longest five second of my life.)

Over the years I tried anything and everything to improve its thermal efficiency, and IMHO Water Wetter/water gave about the best performance.

[TonyKarter]

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