Anyone install strut bushings themselves?

[Chewy]

Hey all,

I am between a rock and a hard place right now trying to decide whether to try and replace my strut bushings myself or have the dealer do it, possibly under warranty. I have this horrid creaking noise from the front left strut when pulling away from a stop and it rattles over large heaves and cracks in the pavement. I want the Pedders parts for longevity but I'm not sure I can do it myself. I have a good amount of tools but no special tools. Having talked to Charlie, he says there are no special tools needed. He did his on a hoist at work which makes it MUCH easier for him. (not to mention he's a trained/certified mechanic of many years) I will be doing it at home on jack stands if I build up enough courage.

So my question is; has anyone done these themselves in their driveway?

Do you have to remove the strut from the car or can you just drop them down while still attached to the the A-arm and just remove the bushing from the top of the strut and install the new one while the unit sits in the fender well. It looks like I would at the VERY least have to remove the swaybar end link.

Thanks for your help!:)

Chris

[steined]

I'm in the same boat. I don't want the stock POS part to fall apart in another 1100 miles. But I also don't think this is in the realm of my ability.

[G8Smitty]

I installed the Eibach springs myself and I am essentially just a computer programmer. It isn't necessarily the same as your question, but I could have changed that part with what I did. It wasn’t difficult or time consuming. I haven’t done a whole lot to my car, but everything I’ve have monkeyed with could not have been any easier to work with. I hope that makes sense. I did rent strut compressors from Oreilly Auto, although I probably didn’t need them because the Eibach springs were shorter (I should replace my struts now, but no $$$ for it).

I read a story somewhere where someone separated the bearing and got ball bearings everywhere, but mine stayed in place and of course I wasn’t trying to replace that.

[G8Smitty]

BTW - I'm no mechanic, but it would seem like it would be much easier to take out the whole assembly and deal with it then trying to do it while it is still attached at the bottom. That would seem almost impossible, but I've only swapped out struts in two other cars, so I am very green (St. Patty's Day Reference :)).

[Chewy]

Thanks Smitty this is the info I am looking for... I don't want to start and get into a hornets nest of pain! lol

I would LOVE to replace the bearings but not knowing what it would take kills me. I wish I had a parts breakdown or pics of this assembly removed from the car so I could see it. I am the type that learns by doing... NOT by reading. It's just that this is my DD so I want to make sure I don't mess something up.

[r33pwrd]

take it in for warranty... ask the mechanic to put the pedders in for you... (obviously you would have to pay for the pedders)

[G8Smitty]

Does this help?
1) Fe1: soft ride Fe1: soft ride Right (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=2534&componentid=70148&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=1&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 2) Bolt Bolt Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=2534&componentid=2312&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=2&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 3) Washer Washer Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=2534&componentid=2790&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=3&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 4) Nut Nut Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=2534&componentid=2290&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=4&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 5) Spring Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=2340&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=5&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 6) Spring insulator Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=12295&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=6&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 7) Spring seat Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=3572&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=7&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 8) Dust cover Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=4258&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=8&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 9) Strap Strap Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=4258&componentid=2785&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=9&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 10) Bumper Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=2391&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=10&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 11) Bearing Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=4159&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=11&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 12) Strut mount Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=2406&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=12&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 13) Retainer Retainer Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=2406&componentid=2531&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=13&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 14) Stop plate Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=3501&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=14&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 15) Top nut Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=3891&componentid=0&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=15&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0) 16) Cap Cap Back (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2512&groupid=52166&subgroupid=3891&componentid=2285&make=28&model=G8&year=2008&graphicID=FR08310&callout=16&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0)
http://forum.grrrr8.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1268&stc=1&d=1237304762

[Chewy]

Sweet! THAT helps a ton! It looks like other than the time to remove them, this may be a pretty easy mod to complete!

Thanks!

Chris

[GeorgeInNePa]

http://www.peddersusa.com/PS_images/assets/ZETAFrontStrutAssembly.gif

[Chewy]

Sweet thanks! DMS told me that I should replace the bearings when I'm in there. I am thinking maybe taking it to Chicago to have the touring package and new bearings and bushings put in is a better idea... Not sure what that would cost but I'm sure it's over a grand...

[steined]

It would seem an alignment would be required after this, is that correct?

[djchubbs]

make sure you get a spring compressor for dissasembly of the factory springs because they are under pressure. you could probably take them to a service center and they will swap them out for you. And i would recomend getting a alignment after your done.

[Chewy]

Oh yeah! Alignment for sure!

[jimmyban]

Sweet thanks! DMS told me that I should replace the bearings when I'm in there. I am thinking maybe taking it to Chicago to have the touring package and new bearings and bushings put in is a better idea... Not sure what that would cost but I'm sure it's over a grand...

Let me know if you go the "installed" Pedders route around Chicago. I'm considering upgrading to Pedders as well and would like to hear about the local installers.

As an FYI, I have had several struts replaced (you probably recall from the other Board) as my car was the original "memory steer" poster child. Even now, I still get a lot of rattling/noise when going over bumps, which I think I have tied to two missing plastic fasteners at the extreme corners where the black plastic, under-hood trim piece meets the windshield. You might check it out on your car. My extra fasteners are "on order."

[dms]

for me they are a piece of cake, but there again, I have a few under my belt.

You do have to take the strut out of the G8, and you will need a strut compressor. the job is pretty easy with he right tools.

The biggest issue is getting the strut, to coil, to mount all aligned together. This is an absolute essentiual process. I have posted a tech sheet somewhere on this forum on the process front and rear. If you have any questions, just ask

There are some serious differences between OEM and our Pedders unit. There is a reason the Camaro will not use the OEM bushing that is may by Opel

mike
dms
mike
dms

[z51l9889]

:charlie3:

I'm also a bit biased (I design shocks and coil-overs for a living), but it's not a bad job at all.

Mike is absolutely right about verifying the alignment of all the parts when you re-assemble the modules. Also, use a spring compressor and make sure you have it securely in place when you take the mount nut loose. The spring has enough energy stored in it to shoot the strut and top mount a long distance in opposite directions.

Finally, when installing shocks, particularly monotubes, make sure that you follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding tightening the mount nut onto the end of the shock rod. If they say to use hand tools only, they really mean it -- do not use an impact gun to tighten or loosen the nut or you may destroy the shock.

BTW -- I've NEVER liked the Opel top mount design ....... I'd be very interested to see the differences between the stock mount and the Pedders part.

[wyldman]

If you need to save a few bucks you can pull the assembly yourself and take it to your local frontend shop and have them take it apart. I would call them first and make sure they are willing to do this. Taking the assembly off the car is not too bad a job but messing with the spring will hurt you if you don"t know what you are doing.

Still...If your feeling game, it's not impossible. Make sure you make note of where every thing goes and the way it faces during the whole process. A quick picture is not a bad idea at all. The best way for me is to take the assembly after it's off and lay it on the ground with the ends facing east and west (your head and body being north and south) and compress the springs with the spring compressor just tight enough that they begin to move separately from the strut. If you leave any tension on them you will never get the nut back on. When you put it back together it's the same process just backwards. Take your time and don't get hurt. Personally I'm a firm believer in using a torque wrench when you go back with things. Nothing worse than a nasty pop when something isn't set to specs. And no an impact isn't "spec". Or if it is and you know how to set it by your airpressure then you obviously don't need my help.


My next question is strut bushings? Just exactly what are you replacing?