pennzoil ULTRA PLATINUM 5W-30 OIL

[AVIDMOTION]

Finally found a great dependable oil that is not crazy expensive and actually can feel a difference when using it. My favorite is still Amsoil but my go to oil is now Pennzoil Ultra platinum 5w-30. Nearly as good as Amsoil but locally sourced easily or off Amazon. It is really clear too. Do some research on Google or Bobtheoilguy.com
As soon as I put it in my stock lifters stopped making noise. I swear the car runs smoother, idles better, runs 8 degrees cooler on Avg and is a true 7500-10,000 mile oil change schedule. I change when convenient between 5000 and 7500.
I have since traded in my G8 and n pi w run a tuned 2013 Ford Taurus SHO with performance package. I just recently changed the oil and again it smoothed out the motor and it got a lot quieter. I found deal for 6 qts and a filter with free shipping on amazon for less then 50 bucks. Pep boys has the Platinum which is nearly as good in 5 qt jugs for 33 bucks.
Just a fyi...

[-Ray-]

Oh God, Henry is going to see this! LOL
He told me he would send me a case. I haven't held him to it. Yet. Glad the oil is working for you.

[AVIDMOTION]

Yea, it the first time I can actually feel and hear a difference. I was impressed when it quieted the stock lifters but when it really quieted the SHO's notoriously busy sounding 3.5 l I was really impressed. In both cars I noticed it smoothed out the motor too. I really like it.

[STL_G8GT]

I've used pu before, that's what's in the g8 right now with a top of the line napa filter. Good stuff.

Haven't bought it since the formula changed, however...

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

[Markmsf3]

I usually use mobile 1, but I think I'm going to try the penzoil ultra and a pf48e my next change. Walmart has the 5 qt jugs for about $28.

[jcmGT]

interesting, I have a different experience with the nat gas oil ...

Been running LS30 in my LSA'd L76 for two years. Decided to do an oil analysis while it was dormant this winter. Drained the oil then realized I didn't have inventory of LS30 I thought I had ... so, filled with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum so I'd have oil in the car to be able to move it if I had to. Move ahead two months, the car has been started few times, bought up to temp on fluids, driven less than a mile. My LS30 arrived, swap it out and, well, filled my pants. The oil that drained out was light brown chocolate milk colored -same as if it had water mixed into it, think what you find in the catch can. Radiator was full, IC rad was full, and just over 8.5 quarts came out exactly what I put in, just oil smell. In 40+ years I've never seen fresh oil come out like this -expected a little darker golden brown, not milk. Since my levels all are good, including drain, I assume it's condensation.

BTW, I let that oil sit weeks and it never separated the water out.

http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/cc350/jcmal_62/for%20sale/IMG_0090.jpg

[Markmsf3]

^^^^ Was the consistency normal?

[jcmGT]

seemed a bit on the light side, less than a 30 weight. I've never seen oil do that. I was if the crankcase was a 9qt catch can... just didn't separate out. FWIW, I refilled with LS30, car was still dormant, follow same routing and when I pulled a sample, it was normal.

[hflores3]

Finally found a great dependable oil that is not crazy expensive and actually can feel a difference when using it. My favorite is still Amsoil but my go to oil is now Pennzoil Ultra platinum 5w-30. Nearly as good as Amsoil but locally sourced easily or off Amazon. It is really clear too. Do some research on Google or Bobtheoilguy.com
As soon as I put it in my stock lifters stopped making noise. I swear the car runs smoother, idles better, runs 8 degrees cooler on Avg and is a true 7500-10,000 mile oil change schedule. I change when convenient between 5000 and 7500.
I have since traded in my G8 and n pi w run a tuned 2013 Ford Taurus SHO with performance package. I just recently changed the oil and again it smoothed out the motor and it got a lot quieter. I found deal for 6 qts and a filter with free shipping on amazon for less then 50 bucks. Pep boys has the Platinum which is nearly as good in 5 qt jugs for 33 bucks.
Just a fyi...

It's "very" good oil. That "gas to liquid" technology makes it 99% pure in crude form (it actually looks like water). So when they add the additives - the additives are able to perform better in that "purer" crude environment. What I personally like most are the additives' emphasis on anti wear & keeping the internals "clean." For what I spent on my engine rebuild, supercharger and all the other stuff -- I really want the good stuff.

[hflores3]

Oh God, Henry is going to see this! LOL
He told me he would send me a case. I haven't held him to it. Yet. Glad the oil is working for you.

Thanks for the reminder! Just sent a note to the marketing crew about getting this for you.

[hflores3]

interesting, I have a different experience with the nat gas oil ...

Been running LS30 in my LSA'd L76 for two years. Decided to do an oil analysis while it was dormant this winter. Drained the oil then realized I didn't have inventory of LS30 I thought I had ... so, filled with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum so I'd have oil in the car to be able to move it if I had to. Move ahead two months, the car has been started few times, bought up to temp on fluids, driven less than a mile. My LS30 arrived, swap it out and, well, filled my pants. The oil that drained out was light brown chocolate milk colored -same as if it had water mixed into it, think what you find in the catch can. Radiator was full, IC rad was full, and just over 8.5 quarts came out exactly what I put in, just oil smell. In 40+ years I've never seen fresh oil come out like this -expected a little darker golden brown, not milk. Since my levels all are good, including drain, I assume it's condensation.

BTW, I let that oil sit weeks and it never separated the water out.

http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/cc350/jcmal_62/for%20sale/IMG_0090.jpg

I'm no engineer - but I've seen this before when cars are left for periods of time. I noticed that you "started it a few times and drove it less than a mile." Normally, you would want to "drive" the vehicles for several miles at normal operating temperatures to remove oxidation and allow the additive packs to do their job. I say this -- very respectfully.

As for the discoloration -- the cleaning agents in this Ultra stuff really do work. Again - I'm no engineer - but the cleaning additives "pickup" the small micron particles and suspend them in the oil. Those that are larger microns are caught by the oil filter. Those that are not -- are microscopic - and are removed at the next oil change.

I used this stuff on my father in laws 1970 Torino (351 Cleveland). It had been sitting for years. Dropped the oil -- yuck!!! Changed the oil to Ultra. Ran it a 2 weeks. Drained the oil - same result - oil came out discolored (I presumed the cleaning agents were doing their job). Refilled with Ultra & new filter again. Ran it for another 2 weeks. Dipstick check and the oil looks very good. Not overly scientific on this story -- but offered as a point of reference.

....now if I can get my father in law to let me turn that car into a Pro-Touring machine!! :-)

[MongosG8]

I have been using Pennzoil for years.. I never had an issue .. Pennzoil Ultra Plat. has been in my G8 since new. Walmart has it for 27.00 bucks for 5 quarts.
(I hate this place ..only purchase my oil there)

Others might disagree with me but I feel Pennzoil is way better than Mobil 1.
I had issues using Mobil 1 in my 95 Z28 and my Maxima. The dealer changed my oil all the time and all of a sudden I had an issue. They actually blamed it on Mobil 1 due to their additives ..I never touched that shit again!

[Chewy]

Mobil 1 is one of the best over the counter oils on the market and it's been proven multiple times, BUT, the Penn NG stuff has me intrigued. One of our Holden club members is the regional manager for Jiffy Lube so uses Penn in his 750 RWHP G8 with no issues. I may be doing the same this following spring.

[kevinm0131]

Finally found a great dependable oil that is not crazy expensive and actually can feel a difference when using it. My favorite is still Amsoil but my go to oil is now Pennzoil Ultra platinum 5w-30. Nearly as good as Amsoil but locally sourced easily or off Amazon. It is really clear too. Do some research on Google or Bobtheoilguy.com
As soon as I put it in my stock lifters stopped making noise. I swear the car runs smoother, idles better, runs 8 degrees cooler on Avg and is a true 7500-10,000 mile oil change schedule. I change when convenient between 5000 and 7500.
I have since traded in my G8 and n pi w run a tuned 2013 Ford Taurus SHO with performance package. I just recently changed the oil and again it smoothed out the motor and it got a lot quieter. I found deal for 6 qts and a filter with free shipping on amazon for less then 50 bucks. Pep boys has the Platinum which is nearly as good in 5 qt jugs for 33 bucks.
Just a fyi...

guesisng the link should have been - bobistheoilguy.com

[Napalm]

so I stopped using Mobil 1 when I noticed it always left tacky residue in the catch can. Now yes that's the catch can not the oil pan but still oil residue that sits on bare AL.

Amsoil never did this, neither did redline, nor Pennzoil platinum. which is how I moved over to pennzoil platnium recently. Now the amsoil I used to use isn't the expensive signature stuff but I used the Xl5000 or whatever it was called. And it worked great - I say the pennzoil works just as well if not better. For less money considering I can get a 5gt for under 30 at wallmarx.

[hflores3]

This Pennzoil Ultra stuff is really outstanding.
When we removed the cylinder heads of my car at 74k miles (I was upgrading to Trick Flow heads and an upgraded cam) - the heads, valve train, cam lobs - were "CLEAN." I mean really clean!

I also consider myself to drive under severe driving conditions (i.e., stop and go, short distances - oh! - and my fat foot buried in the throttle)

So - yeah - its good stuff

[-Ray-]

I'll soon have a case to convert my G8 to this wonder oil.

[Napalm]

Y'all are talking about the bottles with the black label right?

I'm using the silver label stuff - and I think it works very well also. Although I might go looking next go around.

[cstmg8]

Well, I run Pennzoil in my 97 4runner, and it blew a head gasket at 206,000 miles. Obviously Pennzoil is junk.

Lol, maybe I'll try the ultra in my G8, see if I notice any sound differences from the Mobil 1 full synthetic it usually drinks.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[Markmsf3]

Y'all are talking about the bottles with the black label right?

I'm using the silver label stuff - and I think it works very well also. Although I might go looking next go around.Yes. Ultra Platinum is the black bottle. Platinum in the silver bottle. Unfortunately, my local Walmarx doesn't have the Ultra. Guess I'll have to order it online.

[jcmGT]

I'm no engineer - but I've seen this before when cars are left for periods of time. I noticed that you "started it a few times and drove it less than a mile." Normally, you would want to "drive" the vehicles for several miles at normal operating temperatures to remove oxidation and allow the additive packs to do their job. I say this -- very respectfully.


I agree, it should be warmed up better to ensure the H2O is boiled off. I've had similar short cold drive cycles before, never had a oil hold the moisture like this one. When I replaced with LS30, it had a few starts, same as the oil in the image and it did look like oil should (yes, I drained a bit). From my perspective, clearly something different with this oil. I'm confident it was water as it looks the same as lower gear oil on a out drive when the seals leak - yet with time the oil will separate out. Is holding the moisture good? who knows?

As for what oil is best discussion, I have searched to the end of the internet and back. Endless testimonials (IMO worthless), biased studies by someone trying to sell you something, even rat540 data. You will find minimum specs, will not find direct comparisons that clearly show one oil is better as it's really application dependent and the manufactures do not want that. 1320 application is different than DD with LSA. Additive pack may crap out after 1000 miles - who knows (with data)? Perhaps the only way to really get a handle is the UOA, even then many variables.

Sorry for soap box, in the end, without hard data, it's all personal preference.

[Zodiac]

I'm currently using the ultra platinum in my Mustang. No complaints. Do notice my catch can is cleaner since the switch. Don't know much about fuel economy since i hit 7500+ waay too many times to keep track. Valvetrain noise still sounds the same. Is it wonder magic in a bottle? Maybe.

[matts88yj]

Running Amsoil Signature Series in the G8 and 5.3 in the Jeep and sent out an oil test to Blackstone Labs and so far they have all come back clean. It helps there is an Amsoil distribution center about 15 minutes from me that I can pick my order up at. :thumbsup:

[hflores3]

Y'all are talking about the bottles with the black label right?

I'm using the silver label stuff - and I think it works very well also. Although I might go looking next go around.

Yes sir ... bottles with the black labels. That stuff works pretty good.

This is what the cylinder heads, valley (you can see a couple of the lobes) and the DOD actuator plate -- having run the engine on the Ultra stuff. Pretty clean if you ask me.

Note: Blower and heads came off as I was moving up to Trick Flow heads. I had been running with the stock DOD actuator valley cover (i.e., Patrick G had deactivated). Since the blower was off and out of the way -- I went with a different valley cover to get rid of that DOD stuff.

26823268242682526826

[hflores3]

I'm currently using the ultra platinum in my Mustang. No complaints. Do notice my catch can is cleaner since the switch. Don't know much about fuel economy since i hit 7500+ waay too many times to keep track. Valvetrain noise still sounds the same. Is it wonder magic in a bottle? Maybe.

"...wonder magic in a bottle?" No sir - that would be called beer!!

[-Ray-]

Got my case of oil. Thanks Henry. It also came with a black stone labs oil kit. I'll need to get 3 more quarts if I'm going to put it in the G8. Also, if I email the address when I'm ready to change out the new oil, they will send me another case for swapping to the pennzoil.

[Zodiac]

"...wonder magic in a bottle?" No sir - that would be called beer!!

Truer words have never been spoken.

[texn884]

"...wonder magic in a bottle?" No sir - that would be called beer!!

Yes Natty Light all the way:thumbsup::cheers::beer3:

[texn884]

"...wonder magic in a bottle?" No sir - that would be called beer!!

Yes Natty Light all the way:thumbsup::beer3::cheers:

[tchr49]

Yes Natty Light all the way:thumbsup::beer3::cheers:

And that folks, is the truth...

[texn884]

And that folks, is the truth...

I was just waiting for your comment, LMAO

[Napalm]

natty light - smurf that. I made some bad decisions while drinking natty light. many a moon ago.

course I've made a few bad decisions sober too so meh.

[Jeff92se]

The G8GT because of it's 9qt oil pan is already a 10,000 mile oil change interval capable car.

[texn884]

Thinking about trying the Penzoil Platinum been running Royal purple since day one

[AVIDMOTION]

Best oil I ever used, actually quieted the ticks in my motor....price is right too, deals on Amazon and local parts stores..

[tchr49]

If you're running a heavier weight, most places can get a euro spec 5w40 also.

[AVIDMOTION]

I now run the platinum, not the ultra platinum in my SHO, it also quieted the motor significantly. Love this oil.. I heard the Ultra is same as platinum but with even more cleaning agents but I not really sure. Ultra hard to find and more expensive.

[Markmsf3]

I'm using the ultra and had to order it online. The Walmart here carries the platinum, but not the ultra platinum. I'm pleased with it also and plan on using it again.

[texn884]

Ok cool advanced and az have 5 quart jugs for like $28-30 not bad Royal Purple is $40.00 for 5 qt jug I think im going to try and see

[Chewy]

From the tests I've read, RP is NOT the oil to use. I used Rotella 5w40 last year and put a good 100+ miles on that. I've vowed to use the car more this year though and I am thinking about the Penn ultra as well. I have Penn synthetic in my '17 Durango 5.7L and it seems OK. I'd like a 5W40 though for my stroker. I'm not sure it's necessary however.

[texn884]

When they tore the first engine apart from the lifter issue the engine was like so clean in side all the techs could not believe it I guess depends on driving which mine is all highway miles so I like the RP.

going to give the PZ a try in due for a change now in a few weeks I change my oil every 10-12K

[Napalm]

From the tests I've read, RP is NOT the oil to use. I used Rotella 5w40 last year and put a good 100+ miles on that. I've vowed to use the car more this year though and I am thinking about the Penn ultra as well. I have Penn synthetic in my '17 Durango 5.7L and it seems OK. I'd like a 5W40 though for my stroker. I'm not sure it's necessary however.

Considering the extra forces you are putting on the mains and the extra loads across the cam - I'd recommend it - other than maybe moving to a 10-30.

[Chewy]

Considering the extra forces you are putting on the mains and the extra loads across the cam - I'd recommend it - other than maybe moving to a 10-30.

I want to keep the 5 because the bearing tolerances are still tight so I don't want to starve it any longer than necessary. I'd read that it's NOT a good idea to run a 10 on current engines for that reason. Back in the day when machining tolerances weren't as good, a 10W was necessary. This is why I went 5W40. I'll look for the Penn in it when I get there. Still a few months to go!

[texn884]

I want to keep the 5 because the bearing tolerances are still tight so I don't want to starve it any longer than necessary. I'd read that it's NOT a good idea to run a 10 on current engines for that reason. Back in the day when machining tolerances weren't as good, a 10W was necessary. This is why I went 5W40. I'll look for the Penn in it when I get there. Still a few months to go!

Good advice

[texn884]

just ordered 10 quarts from walmart.com for $7.98 quart with tax and free to house shipping $86.18 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 Full Synthetic

[Napalm]

I can see where that might be true but I don't think a modern synthetic 10-30 has the same 0 degree pour points or shear viscosity of the older stuff. I'd have to check a spec sheet to be sure. so I mean that's always a good measure - check a spec sheet.

Then again with the dollars they also make a 0-40 or some such if it was really an issue.

[MongosG8]

Just in Walmart has the 5w30 Ultra Plat for sale here for 29.99 for a 5 quart jug

24.95 for the platinum 5w30

[texn884]

Just in Walmart has the 5w30 Ultra Plat for sale here for 29.99 for a 5 quart jug

24.95 for the platinum 5w30

Shit

[G8eraid]

Just in Walmart has the 5w30 Ultra Plat for sale here for 29.99 for a 5 quart jug

24.95 for the platinum 5w30
Says out of stock now, had it set to notify me when back on stock. You sure it was the 5w30 5qt jugs?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[MongosG8]

Says out of stock now, had it set to notify me when back on stock. You sure it was the 5w30 5qt jugs?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Yeah I was there yesterday ..Purchased the last 5 quart they had left on the shelf near me.
Too bad (1) 5 quart doesn't do it. But I changed my oil with Penz Platinum before I put my G8 away this winter.

It cost me 58.00 bucks with an ACDelco UPF48R filter back in November.

[Markmsf3]

Yeah I was there yesterday ..Purchased the last 5 quart they had left on the shelf near me.
Too bad (1) 5 quart doesn't do it. But I changed my oil with Penz Platinum before I put my G8 away this winter.

It cost me 58.00 bucks with an ACDelco UPF48R filter back in November.
Hmm. What is the difference between a UPF48R and a PF48e, which I used last time?

[texn884]

mine will be delivered today at the house

[MongosG8]

Hmm. What is the difference between a UPF48R and a PF48e, which I used last time?

This filter is much more heavy duty/ Higher performance. The base plate are made with a better gauge metal and the filter itself has more media in it.

When I went from the plastic internal PF48E I noticed a big difference in the weight of the UPF48R compared to the standard PF48e. Overall better filter but you pay for it. Its about 10-11 bucks.. Sometimes Amazon has them on sale for 8.00

[sal329]

I run this oil, changed every 4-5k haven't noticed any negatives

[texn884]

I run this oil, changed every 4-5k haven't noticed any negatives

Why would you change it so frequent? Seems like a total waste of your money, I'm just saying. You can run it for a good 10,000+ miles with a top notch filter

[MongosG8]

I usually change it before I put it away for the winter = 4 months. Still looks great when drained.

Since I only average 4k a year with my car I change it once a year. Have only 31760 on her. Yes I do feel sometimes Im wasting money but it cost me 60 bucks a year

[texn884]

I usually change it before I put it away for the winter = 4 months. Still looks great when drained.

Since I only average 4k a year with my car I change it once a year. Have only 31760 on her. Yes I do feel sometimes Im wasting money but it cost me 60 bucks a year

I forgot that I drive mine a hell of a lot more than most of you all, so yes that makes sense to do it like that! Money well spent then! :)

[Napalm]

To be fair with the long duration on the oil I change my filter more often.

I go about 5-6 K on it or nearly 6 months. Give or take a tick. I also make sure I'm at or near the 50% life number. Often above - say 60%

Change filter and top off oil. Run to about 10% life or so - or 1 year which ever is first.

trade it all.

Why - The filter having that bypass valve - and the car not having any way of letting me know it's clogged - I don't know if the filter is really doing it's all or not. so for a few dollars I trade that merf out just to be sure. Also I don't mind getting the filter out and keeping the oil when I see it's in good standing.

[Napalm]

so side note - this morning gertrude starting making lifter noise. loud lifter noise.

Or I think that's what it is.

sad am I.

149K on the clock

[MongosG8]

so side note - this morning gertrude starting making lifter noise. loud lifter noise.

Or I think that's what it is.

sad am I.

149K on the clock


Sorry to hear this Napalm ..That sucks moose balls!

Well at least you go some decent mileage out of it before it happened. (if that is what it is)
I know I read that some were seeing this issue at 50k

I only have just under 32k on mine and Im nervous about it.

Any plans on rebuilding if that is the case?

[STL_G8GT]

so side note - this morning gertrude starting making lifter noise. loud lifter noise.

Or I think that's what it is.

sad am I.

149K on the clock

Booooooooo. Cam swap time.

[AVIDMOTION]

Mine always ticked if I was low on oil(rare) or the oil was on the dirty side. I would quickly replace oil and filter and it would go away. In your case I would buy 2 jugs on sale good oil, change oil and filter and see if it went away. This way you don't waste good synthetic oil when you tear into the engine to fix if you have to. Good luck, it may go away. ....

[Napalm]

Yeah I had 3 people recommend lucus oil stuff to smooth it out and clean it out. I said smurf it yesterday and bought a bottle. It was about a quart low - which is about normal for what I get out of the catch can over the course of _____ miles. I'd already done my swap the filter thing back in january - OLM says 38% and I was about to swap out the mess anyway. it's about that 8-9 month time.

so meh.

Check my spark plugs to make sure they were tight - because when I listen to other people's noises this is louder and oddly sounds just like a loose spark plug in the cabin - but outside it's louder and sounds like head noise. eliminate a simple thing right. Also check engine light pops on and off occasionally.


I don't know - I either put money in her to rebuild it - thinking cam, new heads with whatever, might as well pop the pistons out and re-ring them right - new chain the like.

DOD delete too.


BUT - I also think I want a transit wagon (the ford thing -yes I know). Or an SS, or an F150 ecoboost, or __________. hell I even looked at a CPO tesla.

I need to replace the clockspring on the car - yep airbags light. and it needs a few widow seals - Even though I treat them 2 are dryied out now.

trans has lots of miles though it - as does the diff. It's a mess and I'm a nervous wreck.

[AVIDMOTION]

Run a scan on the memory for the codes for the on n off again SES light.

[Napalm]

thank you - trying to but I don't have a scanner right now. waiting to borrow an innova setup right now.

I don't know what codes I want to see. I mean would a lifter issue cause a misfire - I'd think so.

[texn884]

Man that sucks for sure my first engine lasted 98,200 miles under warranty, GM can fuck up a wet dream on anything, bastards

[Napalm]

I'm going to make a new thread as I will need some help picking and deciding. Thanks guys.

[hflores3]

The G8GT because of it's 9qt oil pan is already a 10,000 mile oil change interval capable car.

Respectfully,

a) "any oil" can go to 10,000 mile interval. The core question is the level of protection you want for your engine at that interval.
c) a 9 quart sump is not a significant determinant of the level of protection you want for your engine.
d) The level of protection comes from the quality of the base oil and the additive packs therein. (dispersents, detergents, antioxidants, friction modifiers, anti shearing, etc.)
e) At some point all additive packs will diminish (via volatility, oxidation, mechanical shearing, combustion contaminants, etc.) .... that's when you see gunk, soot, and all that stuff!)
f) You are correct that you can take our 9 quart cars to a 10,000 oil change interval - but we would do so at a cost/benefit compromise. (i.e., the reduced cost of oil changes vs. the high cost of a reduced mileage engine and subsequent R&R. The dealer replacement cost of an L76 (with labor) is $9,000. Not suggesting that 10k oil intervals lead to engine replacment (cause & effect) ..... only that we have a lot of cash invested in our cars and thus the need protect drive trains with quality lubricants.

[buzzard302]

Bringing this one back up for an unscientific comment. I recently bought my 09 G8 GT with 49k miles on it. When I went to look at the car, I was floored by how quiet and smooth the engine was idling. I could barely hear it running when walking around the vehicle. The previous owner religiously used Penzoil Ultra Platinum. For the past 10 years, I had a GTO and used Mobil 1. That engine always had a slight sewing machine/ticking sound, even when new. Obviously I am comparing two separate engines here, but I am currently very sold on the Penzoil and plan on using it going forward with the G8.

[Chewy]

Bringing this one back up for an unscientific comment. I recently bought my 09 G8 GT with 49k miles on it. When I went to look at the car, I was floored by how quiet and smooth the engine was idling. I could barely hear it running when walking around the vehicle. The previous owner religiously used Penzoil Ultra Platinum. For the past 10 years, I had a GTO and used Mobil 1. That engine always had a slight sewing machine/ticking sound, even when new. Obviously I am comparing two separate engines here, but I am currently very sold on the Penzoil and plan on using it going forward with the G8.

Remove the foam rubber piece and faux cover from the intake plenum and it'll make a bit more noise. My stock GT ticked. Mostly injector noise though.

[Napalm]

Yes without the big noise blocker - you'd be amazed at how loud fuel injectors are under load.

[MongosG8]

Yes without the big noise blocker - you'd be amazed at how loud fuel injectors are under load.

So true .. I even had a friend notice a big difference when I pulled it off

[Chewy]

I hear nothing under "full load" from the front of my car! ;)

From what Manton is saying about their trunnion bushings, I should hear even less from upfront.

[MongosG8]

I hear nothing under "full load" from the front of my car! ;)

:thumbsup::worthy:

[Napalm]

just an FYI

Got 5qt jugs of the ultra platinum from wallmart.com for 25 per jug. Cheaper than the lower grades sitting on the shelf in the store.

AND buying 2 of them I got free shipping to the house. NUTS I tell you.

[Chewy]

Just can't buy from Wally World. Just can't do it... I still have this sitting in my garage. My plan is to finally use it this year. I put 100 miles on last year.

[Jeff92se]

Respectfully,

a) "any oil" can go to 10,000 mile interval. The core question is the level of protection you want for your engine at that interval.
c) a 9 quart sump is not a significant determinant of the level of protection you want for your engine.
d) The level of protection comes from the quality of the base oil and the additive packs therein. (dispersents, detergents, antioxidants, friction modifiers, anti shearing, etc.)
e) At some point all additive packs will diminish (via volatility, oxidation, mechanical shearing, combustion contaminants, etc.) .... that's when you see gunk, soot, and all that stuff!)
f) You are correct that you can take our 9 quart cars to a 10,000 oil change interval - but we would do so at a cost/benefit compromise. (i.e., the reduced cost of oil changes vs. the high cost of a reduced mileage engine and subsequent R&R. The dealer replacement cost of an L76 (with labor) is $9,000. Not suggesting that 10k oil intervals lead to engine replacment (cause & effect) ..... only that we have a lot of cash invested in our cars and thus the need protect drive trains with quality lubricants.

While I'll agree in general, I contend.

Same oils but different quanties:

1) Car with a 4-5 quart sump. Probably not recommended to go 10,000 miles unless you run a solid synthetic with quality base stocks. 5,000 is probably the max.
2) Car with 9-10 quart sump. Probably no problem to go 10,000. Why? Because there is 2x the additives etc.. available for the engine to consume. More oil means the degradation of all the additives that 10quarts of oil will be used up slower.

[MongosG8]

just an FYI

Got 5qt jugs of the ultra platinum from wallmart.com for 25 per jug. Cheaper than the lower grades sitting on the shelf in the store.

AND buying 2 of them I got free shipping to the house. NUTS I tell you.


I never shop at that store but I seen the same deal.. looks like I will need to enter at my own risk and purchase a couple of the 5 quart containers.

[tchr49]

I never shop at that store but I seen the same deal.. looks like I will need to enter at my own risk and purchase a couple of the 5 quart containers.

You can always people watch:)

[Chewy]

You can always people watch:)

Ew! I'd rather do that at Target! A much better-looking mix of people.

[Napalm]

enter nothing.

y'all missed the bit about shipped to my house. I don't even have to walk in the melonfarmer. win win.

I will say if the shipping cost money I'd have walked in and picked it up though.

[Napalm]

OH and there's a rebate on too

[hflores3]

While I'll agree in general, I contend.

Same oils but different quanties:

1) Car with a 4-5 quart sump. Probably not recommended to go 10,000 miles unless you run a solid synthetic with quality base stocks. 5,000 is probably the max.
2) Car with 9-10 quart sump. Probably no problem to go 10,000. Why? Because there is 2x the additives etc.. available for the engine to consume. More oil means the degradation of all the additives that 10quarts of oil will be used up slower.

Your contention is absolutely respected.

However, with all due respect - I don't think "tribology" (i.e., the study of friction, wear, lubrication, the design of bearings; the science of interacting surfaces in relative motion) works - as you describe (related to volume in the sump)

Oil degration is not determined by the “volume” of oil. Rather …..



Dirt containing fine metal particles can be a shitty catalyst that speeds up the degradation process of our lubricant. Air and water provides a source of oxygen that reacts with the oil and leads to oxidation of the lubricant.
Oxidation is our primary oil degradation mechanism. Its the chemical reaction that naturally occurs between the oil and oxygen. Can't get around it
Additive Depletion reduces the performance, protection, and service life of lubricants. When they are being used (cars trucks – you name it), additive levels constantly deplete which reduces the oil’s ability to resist oxidation and limits oil service life. Additive depletion is accelerated by stuff like acids, water and fine metals. Monitoring oil and replenishing the fluid’s additive package regularly helps maintain fluid performance. Oil volume in the sump is not part of the equation.
Contamination of fluids by foreign substances (solids, liquids or gases) can significantly accelerate fluid degradation and create a whole bunch of other crappy problems. Stuff that is in engines creates its own contaminants (acid byproducts of oxidation, fine metals (rust and wear particles). It’s just a normal part of the combustion process.


For every 100 gallons of gasoline burned in an internal combustion engine …. You end up with:



90 gals of water
3-10 gals of unburned gasoline
½ - 2lbs of soot
¼ - 1 lb of varnish
1 – 4 lbs of Nitric Acid


So I will certainly NOT be taking MY CAR to the 10,000 mile oil change interval. No way! I have too much invested in my engine. I speak for myself and myself alone. By the way, the aforementioned are industry facts.

[Jeff92se]

Your contention is absolutely respected.

However, with all due respect - I don't think "tribology" (i.e., the study of friction, wear, lubrication, the design of bearings; the science of interacting surfaces in relative motion) works - as you describe (related to volume in the sump)

Oil degration is not determined by the “volume” of oil. Rather …..



Dirt containing fine metal particles can be a shitty catalyst that speeds up the degradation process of our lubricant. Air and water provides a source of oxygen that reacts with the oil and leads to oxidation of the lubricant.
Oxidation is our primary oil degradation mechanism. Its the chemical reaction that naturally occurs between the oil and oxygen. Can't get around it
Additive Depletion reduces the performance, protection, and service life of lubricants. When they are being used (cars trucks – you name it), additive levels constantly deplete which reduces the oil’s ability to resist oxidation and limits oil service life. Additive depletion is accelerated by stuff like acids, water and fine metals. Monitoring oil and replenishing the fluid’s additive package regularly helps maintain fluid performance. Oil volume in the sump is not part of the equation.
Contamination of fluids by foreign substances (solids, liquids or gases) can significantly accelerate fluid degradation and create a whole bunch of other crappy problems. Stuff that is in engines creates its own contaminants (acid byproducts of oxidation, fine metals (rust and wear particles). It’s just a normal part of the combustion process.


For every 100 gallons of gasoline burned in an internal combustion engine …. You end up with:



90 gals of water
3-10 gals of unburned gasoline
½ - 2lbs of soot
¼ - 1 lb of varnish
1 – 4 lbs of Nitric Acid


So I will certainly NOT be taking MY CAR to the 10,000 mile oil change interval. No way! I have too much invested in my engine. I speak for myself and myself alone. By the way, the aforementioned are industry facts.



Your concerns are valid. But the QUANTITY of oil also has a great effect on change intervals. I think you're missing this point. With two of the same oils in the same engine with similar usages. The more oil you have, the longer the oil will last before it needs to be changed. It's why all the cars with larger sumps have a longer recommended change interval. ie.. BMWs, G8s etc... do these engines run better/cleaner etc?? No. It's the sump capacity that's the difference.

Now I didn't mean to say to demand that everyone run to 10k before changing their oil. That depends on mostly how the engine is run/built/operating conditions etc... And only a Blackstone labs could really tell you what the oil's actual condition is. What I'm saying is that our 9-10 qt sumps will greatly increase the safe interchange interval. If you're still changing the oil a 3k, that's a complete waste of time. 5k is probably way too soon.

This is IMHO for a basically stock engine. If you have a built motor or if it's forced inducted in anyway, all bets are off.

[Napalm]

so having be involved in implementation of OLM systems.

One of the biggest benefits of having more sump capacity with respect to useable oil life has to do with oil temp and cooling cycles. More oil - tends to run cooler - and breakdown less. It also keeps the engine cooler to a certain degree - some 1/3 of your engine cooling is done via oil path. This surprises quite a few people.

The second - as mentioned is the increase in anit-foam capacity - and acid absorption. Do you know why most OLM meters top out around 10K miles - it's not always about the oil. It's about your filter.

your car while having a bypass value in the oil filter doesn't have a light to tell you it's bypassed. So in the design of the OLM it was also measured approximately how long it takes to clog up the filter enough to bypass it. (short of drastic things like running with no air filter - failed PCV etc etc).

and 10K miles is about half of what it takes before the filter is useless. so the 10K top spec is more about getting your old oil filter off the engine.

[Chewy]

I run the Mobil 5W-20 20,000 mile oil in my 2017 Durango R/T along with their specific filter and change it every 10,000. I put a lot of interstate miles on it, but some city too.

[hflores3]

Your concerns are valid. But the QUANTITY of oil also has a great effect on change intervals. I think you're missing this point. With two of the same oils in the same engine with similar usages. The more oil you have, the longer the oil will last before it needs to be changed. It's why all the cars with larger sumps have a longer recommended change interval. ie.. BMWs, G8s etc... do these engines run better/cleaner etc?? No. It's the sump capacity that's the difference.

Now I didn't mean to say to demand that everyone run to 10k before changing their oil. That depends on mostly how the engine is run/built/operating conditions etc... And only a Blackstone labs could really tell you what the oil's actual condition is. What I'm saying is that our 9-10 qt sumps will greatly increase the safe interchange interval. If you're still changing the oil a 3k, that's a complete waste of time. 5k is probably way too soon.

This is IMHO for a basically stock engine. If you have a built motor or if it's forced inducted in anyway, all bets are off.

Great chat!

Quantity of oil (all things being carefully controlled; variables accounted for...) then yes - has an effect on oil additive pack protection and thus oil change intervals.

The challenge is driving conditions are "rarely" controlled. They rarely are ...

Driving conditions play the largest part in the degradation of oil additives. So the 8.8 quarts in our sump, I would “argue,” is not an automatic “pass” to longer intervals (even as a suggestion). The variables are too vast …..

a) stop and go driving
b) dusty conditions
c) heavy loads
d) short drives
e) hard driving.

I don’t think it’s a case of oil change “hypochondria” on my part - rather – maintaining a WELL lubricated engine in the pursuit of engine longevity.

Ever notice how the oils are getting thinner and thinner while intervals are being marketed as longer and longer? The thinner oil is in pursuit of CAFÉ fuel economy.

The longer intervals are in the pursuit of the magic 100k mark. You can get to 100k miles easy with extended oil change intervals. Easy. However, after 100k miles – the manufacturer is done with their warranty obligation to you. So, in my cynical mind – longer intervals is a marketing value proposition: “ease of operation.”

The pattern seems to be producing fewer and fewer domestic vehicles running to up to the 175,000 - 250,000 mile mark these days. Shoot, domestic makes used to hit these marks by using the old “every 3,000 miles” The old "straight six, 283, 327, 350 could hit those marks -- but back then - our dads lived by the "every 3,000 miles" which meant the additive packs were refreshed often! But I don’t see many of those mile markers being hit by many domestics any more (in the aggregate).

My cynicism is that thinner oils + longer intervals = repair --- LONG after the warranty has ended.

[hflores3]

so having be involved in implementation of OLM systems.

One of the biggest benefits of having more sump capacity with respect to useable oil life has to do with oil temp and cooling cycles. More oil - tends to run cooler - and breakdown less. It also keeps the engine cooler to a certain degree - some 1/3 of your engine cooling is done via oil path. This surprises quite a few people.


1) Great reminder on the Quantity of oil as a "cooling" strategy! I overlooked that. You, sir, are spot on! Gracias.
2) The oil filter life span -- another great catch!

[Napalm]

It's why I tell people to use the OLM - for most it's remarkably accurate. and people get testy because "well it's always ______miles every time" or etc.

Thing is - most people drive exactly the same way day in and day out. SO image that.

But to someone else's comment it's also designed around the car as built. So for you guys with headers, cams, . . . . . . . whatever you need to be on a different schedule. Even though I run a cam in mine I still go more than 6K on oil changes. and I still trade the filter out half way between changes. I r weird though.

[donkeyGT]

So what about the actual AGE of the so called oil? Here in MI my car sits idle for about 6 months..I always change it and filter in the spring regardless of miles (some years only around 500). I have been told you should never leave oil in a car for over a year regardless. Thoughts? There must be some kind of shelf life yes? I only have 23K on the car and maybe my analness is overkilling it? BTW I use Mobil 1 full synthetic.

[Jeff92se]

I'll clarify that the OLM monitors the driving habits and adjusts accordingly. But the OLM can't pick up if something in the engine is going wrong etc...

As far as the age of the oil. I think 1 year is just fine. Even mobil 1 is advertising oil that can last a year

[tchr49]

So what about the actual AGE of the so called oil? Here in MI my car sits idle for about 6 months..I always change it and filter in the spring regardless of miles (some years only around 500). I have been told you should never leave oil in a car for over a year regardless. Thoughts? There must be some kind of shelf life yes? I only have 23K on the car and maybe my analness is overkilling it? BTW I use Mobil 1 full synthetic.

Michigan winters do suck.....
I’m just a hair over 19,000 miles and the car sits from the end of November until about now (weather permitting). I change the oil and filter just before I put it away, regardless of how many miles it went in a season. Sometimes I feed the oil to my POS Ford Ranger so,it doesn’t go to waste.

[Napalm]

chemically speaking - from what I've read all the modern synthetics can live in open air for 1 year and still easily meet all the required corrosion resistance and anti-foaming requirements.

No maker will come out and claim anymore than that. Which incidentally is the other reason OLM systems on cars stop at or around 10K. NO auto maker will put the system out there that would allow you to run oil in the engine longer than a year without throwing up a light. because no oil maker would agree to oil living any longer than one year.

In theory however it's been tested on a few stand engines. With regular light use it's possible to go about 3 years - issue again is that oil filter and the cleanliness of the air around you. It is however not recommended by any stretch.

Conversely - it is recommended to not ever change the oil but even 3-6 years like flushing your coolant. I know shocker - but again long term tests show it would actually be better for most people to run the car with a periodic oil filter change - and oil top off for some time - with a occasional full fluid swap. Your top off oil however would be mostly additives and corrosion agent. The oil however - if it never got hot (read 400 or so degrees) would be perfectly happy.

It is however so far from conventional wisdom that only commercial vehicles tend to accept this idea.

[hflores3]

So what about the actual AGE of the so called oil? Here in MI my car sits idle for about 6 months..I always change it and filter in the spring regardless of miles (some years only around 500). I have been told you should never leave oil in a car for over a year regardless. Thoughts? There must be some kind of shelf life yes? I only have 23K on the car and maybe my analness is overkilling it? BTW I use Mobil 1 full synthetic.

I'm no engineer - but cars that are left "sitting" for extended periods of time are more prone to "oxidize." When you drive your car - you heat it up to where accumulated moisture is evaporated off. thus .... a car that is static for long periods of time may need to be run and/or oil changed sooner.

[Napalm]

So what about the actual AGE of the so called oil? Here in MI my car sits idle for about 6 months..I always change it and filter in the spring regardless of miles (some years only around 500). I have been told you should never leave oil in a car for over a year regardless. Thoughts? There must be some kind of shelf life yes? I only have 23K on the car and maybe my analness is overkilling it? BTW I use Mobil 1 full synthetic.

As I stated in my other post this is mostly true. So far no oil company I know of will warranty the properties of their oil past the one year mark if opened to the outside air. which in your crankcase is considered that. IE on the shelf in sealed bottle - all is peachy keen. Crack that joint open - all bets are off. So yes that is mostly true - and I would say quit spending that extra money but it's not hurting anything either. Bigger issue I would see. in 6 months time you might have sat long enough for the oil film to leave some of the metal bare. As in exposed and oxidizing. Thus I would ask how do you start your car after that first run out? That's a far bigger concern.


I'll clarify that the OLM monitors the driving habits and adjusts accordingly. But the OLM can't pick up if something in the engine is going wrong etc...

As far as the age of the oil. I think 1 year is just fine. Even mobil 1 is advertising oil that can last a year

So that's not exactly true. Depends on the system and who made it - but newer OLM systems do add on determinants for noted misfires, anytime there is a significant vibration event, missed starts, etc. Now yes if you are eating a cam bearing - it can't know that - and neither do you. If you are changing your oil without some UOA - you might not even see it with monthly oil changes.


I'm no engineer - but cars that are left "sitting" for extended periods of time are more prone to "oxidize." When you drive your car - you heat it up to where accumulated moisture is evaporated off. thus .... a car that is static for long periods of time may need to be run and/or oil changed sooner.

while that is mostly true - and useful if you run a catch can. the bigger issues is if the oil film has sat long enough to depart the metal. The oil can oxidize but most full synthetic products have additive packs for that. Of course some are better than others. But really if you sit more than 6 months I'd give a strong thought to moving down to dino oil for that time sitting - and marking your calendar to start the car once a month for about 10 minutes. Even if it is on jack stands and the tires rotate at idle.

Similar issues apply to trans fluids and diff fluids too - not to mention your brake fluid.

[Napalm]

So far off topic though.

If you like pennzoil ultra platinum - get some. I just got another 3 - 5 quart jugs last week. 25 dollars for 5 quarts is just too hard to pass up today

[GXPaycheck]

So far off topic though.

If you like pennzoil ultra platinum - get some. I just got another 3 - 5 quart jugs last week. 25 dollars for 5 quarts is just too hard to pass up today

Cheap at Walmart.com and Pennzoil has a rebate going!

[MIEngineer]

I have run Amsoil and M1 without any major issues for the last 10 years plus. Castrol here or there as well in my moms Saab to use up some extra syntec synthetic 5W30 I had [and that car has all of 34k on it].

I really prefer the Amsoil but the accessibility was difficult at the time and I bought in large quantities - I used to do the once a year on my old 2002 Avalanche and that truck absolutely loved Amsoil - my 2013 is not in love with Mobil 1. So I am looking to move to the M1 extended performance before I may drive back to Amsoil for that. I bought some M1 extended performance recently to try out in the mean time.

I will run the regular M1 synthetic until my stock depletes [as my oil changes will be on 7 cars instead of 9 this time around (as I do the changes now for myself, my parents, my fiancée and her parents as well - as needed when her dads lease runs out of Buick freebies)

Since the dealer did an oil change on my 16 at around 4500 miles [and I did a break in after I arrived home with it] it should be fine

My fiancées 17 has 2 dealer changes [and of course I did a later break in change due to weather].

The GXP had a fresh change before storage

So that cuts down my oil quantity quite a bit :)

Also picked up a "free" VW turbo beetle from a friend who was going to scrap it due to an international move [and it needs some tinkering - plan to sell it after some small work]. Who knows maybe I'll find it decent enough as a tinker toy to keep it and sell it later on...it has 2 sets of wheels already :D

My beater Volvo wagon will be getting some attention this year finally - hopefully with the engine sitting 3 years on a pallet back in service...and the car parked for a decade with a few trips around the neighborhood here or there.

So maybe I do need all that oil!