Radiator removal/reinstall DIY - also radiator design improved?

[DJ_57]

I know i've seen a DIY on radiator removal and replacement but I can't find it on either board (yes, I've used search), can someone point me there?

Time to replace it...yep it was a temporary fix that worked great while it lasted.
Funny thing is, just 2-3 weeks before this, I was on another big road trip. The first time it happened I had just gone out of town a few weeks before. So I've dodged that bullet twice now.
Hose popped off two weeks ago in town just coasting off the freeway and dumped a ton of coolant, then twice more in the last 4 days (but I caught it before it pumped it out), so needless to say it's parked now awaiting my decision to R&R the radiator myself or let a shop do it (no time to dedicate even though it sounds easy).
Just a warning to those who might sweat the temporary replacement of a better hoseclamp (or in my case, two of them) when the inevitable upper neck lip breaks off - the 2 clamps bought me over a year of time but I can't recommend it to anyone else either now.

Does anyone know if the newest GM radiator is a changed/improved design? I mean, by the looks of this board, it's a common failure to happen, not just an isolated incident.
The new part number is 92234040. Something has changed on it where it requires a new cap (13502509) and seals (92191951, x2) between the radiator and AC condenser.
As of 1/1/2015, OEM radiators have a lifetime warranty. Sweet. I got the GM parts price down to the same price as an aftermarket radiator (from 1800radiator.com). When I learned about the new-for-2015 warranty terms, it seems like a no-brainer...

Especially since the Cold-Case brand (which is one of the only ones out there that fixes the plastic neck issue the RIGHT way - with an aluminum tank) is 4-6wks out at this time...and I don't have that kinda time to kill on a DD since my other DD is down right now too...

[G8eraid]

GTOG8TA also makes an all aluminum performance radiator now, price looked pretty good but it's says call now for price...

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[DJ_57]

GTOG8TA also makes an all aluminum performance radiator now, price looked pretty good but it's says call now for price...

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GTOG8TA is the "Cold Case" brand I mentioned above.
I called them, price is reasonable considering that it completely eliminates stupid plastic radiator end tanks for good. The reason the site says to call is because of the lead time.

[-Ray-]

Radiator is pretty easy to remove.
There are 2 tabs that hold the fan assembly on the radiator. Push those in and push forward and then up. Unclip harness, chack to see if it looks like it's been getting hot.
The items holding the top of the radiator in are just as easy to remove. Use a small screw driver and push the tab from the top and lift. Don't push too hard. Now the radiator will tip forward. There are 4 10mm bolts holding the A/C condensor. 2 top and 2 bottom. After those are removed, I use the 10mm to remove the thermostat bolts holding the housing to the water pump. Easier than removing the hose from the rad.
Lift up and pull it out.

[DJ_57]

Thanks Ray. Last night I got brave and decided to try it all, I got the 2 top clips and the e-fan assembly out in about 20minutes easily. Didn't see the 2 lower M6 (10mm head) bolts, only the top two and it seemed like it would all come out easily at that point, but it was almost midnight and I didn't have a drain pan at that house to finish the breakdown, but will tonight. Sure there is 2 lower bolts?

[TooManyHobbies]

No bottom bolts on my condensor. Bottom has tabs that connect to radiator.

[-Ray-]

Thanks Ray. Last night I got brave and decided to try it all, I got the 2 top clips and the e-fan assembly out in about 20minutes easily. Didn't see the 2 lower M6 (10mm head) bolts, only the top two and it seemed like it would all come out easily at that point, but it was almost midnight and I didn't have a drain pan at that house to finish the breakdown, but will tonight. Sure there is 2 lower bolts?

I might be mistaken on the 4 bolts. I think Curt is correct. When you put it together, drop in rad, then slide the condensor into the back of the rad.

[Ben2009GT]

I might be mistaken on the 4 bolts. I think Curt is correct. When you put it together, drop in rad, then slide the condensor into the back of the rad. You be right Ray that really the only way to do it. It a pain either way taking it out and putting it back in is a B--ch.

[DJ_57]

I'm doing it with the front bumper on, and not discharging AC system to remove condenser. I thought you could separate the bottom of the condenser from the radiator, remove the radiator while holding the condenser away from it, and use something to temporarily support the condenser from the top of the bumper bar while the radiator is out.

Am I now doing this wrong?

[-Ray-]

No. You are doing it correct. You can separate the condenser from the radiator. I just let the condenser hang.

[Homerfan]

Hmmm... I'm glad I saw this thread. I already have a brand new GM rad (92234040) waiting to install. I've now
gotten prices on the new rad cap and seals, my question is am I also going to need the 90 degree elbow that attaches to the lower hose (92237786) or am I okay to use my existing one?

[Homerfan]

Now I'm starting to lose my mind.

Pulled my rad today - no issues. Put new rad in, reassemble everything - no issues. Start adding coolant & it's pissing out the connection where the lower rad hose elbow goes. So I drain it again, pull the fan again and check that the elbow was properly inserted... looked okay, but I removed it to check on the old rad. The o-ring is still good, it slides onto the old rad and snaps in place firmly without putting the clip in. Back to the new rad - visually, the spot where the elbow connects is identical to the old one. It doesn't feel quite as tight when installed, but there isn't a ridiculous amount of play.

Installed the elbow once again onto the new rad making sure that it's properly seated before putting the clip in, poured a bit of coolant into the elbow to check for leaks - looks good. Once again I reassemble everything & start adding coolant... SAME DAMN THING!!!

Am I missing something? I've searched and searched and it doesn't appear that there is a new part number to replace the elbow.
At this point, it's dark out and I will likely have to use my wife's car to get to work in the morning anyway, but I want to know if it's me or the rad!?!

[JimmyJazz]

I'm going to change my hoses and flush my radiator next weekend. What's the story about the o-ring and elbow? Are you just talking about the elbow in the hose where it connects to the radiator? And what's the deal with an o-ring? Thanks.
***EDIT*** after reading more posts you're talking about the transmission line connection o-ring?

[Homerfan]

No, the transmission lines are 'quick-connects'. They weren't a problem at all.
The elbow in question is what the lower rad hose connects to on the rad itself (yes, separate piece!) If you are just changing your hoses, you won't need to remove the elbow.
25460
There is an o-ring inside it where it seals to the rad.

[JimmyJazz]

Thanks Man! One of the threads I read said it was a bitch to get the lower hose off the radiator. True?

[Homerfan]

Thanks Man! One of the threads I read said it was a bitch to get the lower hose off the radiator. True?

I will say that it probably is. However, I was replacing the entire rad so everything was out of the way. If you are swapping your hoses, you may want to drain the system then remove the top hose first. With that out of the way, it's very easy to remove the fans from the radiator & then the lower hose will be easily accessible. :)

[Conflans321]

I'm having issues getting the tranny lines back into the new radiator. I get them in then try to put he clips back on and they will not go on. Do I need to apply force to the get the lines in further before trying to install the clips? I don't want o break the quick connects.

Also, should I replace what little ATF drained out? Not sure if it was enough ATF to be concerned about replacing. I really don't want to have to jack up the car and level it out to check the Tranny level. I've read that procedure and it sounds pretty time consuming considering I don't have a lift in my garage. :-/

[heavy2500]

I've always had the Quick clips in the fittings when I put the trans lines back in. An depending on how much fluid comes out, it should be replaced


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