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dblott
01-16-2014, 05:36 AM
Not sure if this is the right place for a Emission question. but here goes.

CEL light came on and this is the code the tech found. Invoice says "tested Vent valve circut. OK Has internal open in the valve. Recommend replacement".

What and where is it, and is this something I could do to save $300? We were told it wasn't going to cause any damage to leave it, but cel would stay on. Got 68K on 2009 G8 GT, and starting to see some sensors going. Anything in the vicinity of the work that should be replaced while in there, whether done by me or a GM tech?

SubJosh82
01-19-2014, 01:26 PM
I'm having a similar issue that is being played out on a thread on another board. Long story short, mine is being replaced under an extended warranty. Mine originated with the same code. My tech recommended that charcoal canister be replaced as well but I have so far resisted since I do not believe the replacement is necessary. Their reasoning as that it is possible for fuel to get into the canister. I suspect that this would cause other issues.

There is a thread that explains how to do the replacement but it was above my level of expertise due to the required removal of at least the driver rear tire and some have said even more to complete.

This is why I am having GM do it instead.

WhatNext
01-19-2014, 02:48 PM
There are threads that go into the gory details. But the valve and canister are located above the fuel tank. If just replacing the valve, some have been able to do it without dropping the tank.

In NY, you won't pass the state inspection and neither the valve or canister are covered by the regular warranty. It cost me $750 for a dealer to do the job.

dblott
01-20-2014, 05:27 AM
Thanks you guys. This gives me a little hope although your name WhatNext has a touch of foreshadowing. lol

We have an extended warranty, (which has already proven valuable), and were reading yesterday in the Federal Emission section of the warranty booklet that "listed emission components are covered 8yr/80K". Now we need to find the list. Brother-in law found a list for the Malibu and the cannister was included if I remember correctly what he read to me over the phone. He had a similar problem with his motorhome and called the companies regional representative who called the dealer and told them it was covered and to take care of it. I'll try to keep you all in the loop as I progress, but it may take a couple of days. Got to get to work.

todds87ss
01-21-2014, 02:39 PM
There are threads that go into the gory details. But the valve and canister are located above the fuel tank. If just replacing the valve, some have been able to do it without dropping the tank.

In NY, you won't pass the state inspection and neither the valve or canister are covered by the regular warranty. It cost me $750 for a dealer to do the job.

They are NOT above the tank. You DO NOT have to drop the tank to replace them. The only thing above your fuel tank is your back seat.

todds87ss
01-21-2014, 02:44 PM
Thanks you guys. This gives me a little hope although your name WhatNext has a touch of foreshadowing. lol

We have an extended warranty, (which has already proven valuable), and were reading yesterday in the Federal Emission section of the warranty booklet that "listed emission components are covered 8yr/80K". Now we need to find the list. Brother-in law found a list for the Malibu and the cannister was included if I remember correctly what he read to me over the phone. He had a similar problem with his motorhome and called the companies regional representative who called the dealer and told them it was covered and to take care of it. I'll try to keep you all in the loop as I progress, but it may take a couple of days. Got to get to work.

I hope this works for you. If not, do a search to find threads (mine included) regarding the DIY fix. It is a 30 dollar part, and a few hours work. I had to source the part for a 2008 GT from the GTO parts bin - exactly the same part - since no part number was listed for the 2008 GT. Some 09s have a different part, of which there are pics of in one of the threads. The "quick release" fittings can be a pain, but the rest of the job is fairly straightforward. Do NOT hand over $750 for this unless you have no business with a wrench in your hand (no insult intended - just an indication of the level of mechanical ability needed).

WhatNext
01-21-2014, 03:10 PM
Thanks for the correction.

todds87ss
01-22-2014, 05:32 AM
Thanks for the correction.

no worries...it is a common misconception

aussiek2000
01-26-2014, 04:31 AM
GM procedure is to drop tank. So I wouldn't be so quick to call people out on what required or not required.


http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r39/aussiek2000/Pontiac/vent.png

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r39/aussiek2000/Pontiac/vent1.png

-Ray-
01-26-2014, 04:38 AM
Since Todd was the first one to do this I wouldn't be do quick to call him out.

aussiek2000
01-26-2014, 04:54 AM
Since Todd was the first one to do this I wouldn't be do quick to call him out.

I'm not calling him out. Im just saying, don't berate people for quoting GM literature. If alldata says it pays 3.3 hours, I'm not going to quote .5 because Todd says you can do it easier.

-Ray-
01-26-2014, 08:18 AM
I'm not calling him out. Im just saying, don't berate people for quoting GM literature. If alldata says it pays 3.3 hours, I'm not going to quote .5 because Todd says you can do it easier.

This will be my last on this. He didn't berate anyone. Just showing folks they can save a lot of money if they do it themselves, provided they have the skills to do so.

gr8lover
01-26-2014, 08:25 AM
If everyone did everything the way the GM service manual told us to do it..... we would waste many many hours..... I know some of the guys that write the manuals..... wheeeeeewwwwweeeeeeee........ :) There is always a better way... well most of the time... Glad I didn't follow the way the manuals told us how to change the rear studs either.... Creativity goes along way...

skinsfangreg
01-26-2014, 09:45 AM
I've now replaced the canister & valve on 3 G8's (mine and 2 local's) and didn't remove the tank on any of them. The first one I did (my G8) took me 3 hours due to the learning process. I can now do them in about an hour from start to finish. Practice makes perfect :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

AVIDMOTION
08-01-2014, 10:48 PM
Basically what is the procedure. I have both the po445 & po449 code, which happened strangely right after when while getting gas the pump did not click off, spewing precious fuel on my feet and street. I figure perhaps it over poured into the canister, maybe burn off or evaporate and codes would go away. I tried to clear but the one pops right back on.

WhatNext
08-02-2014, 02:51 AM
Since you know you overfilled the tank, I would think that the hardware is still ok.

In some other post, It was outlined the lengthy process the system must go through to get a reset. Check that out and I would give it more operating time before going down the path of changing parts.

AVIDMOTION
08-02-2014, 07:18 AM
The purge valve selenoid is the only code on now. Where is this valve? On the motor or left side of fuel tank?

todds87ss
08-05-2014, 02:02 PM
Basically what is the procedure. I have both the po445 & po449 code, which happened strangely right after when while getting gas the pump did not click off, spewing precious fuel on my feet and street. I figure perhaps it over poured into the canister, maybe burn off or evaporate and codes would go away. I tried to clear but the one pops right back on.

this is exactly what caused my issue. You have likely shorted the electrical solenoid valve. I had a post with more detailed directions, as have a few others. Ill see if I can find it.

http://www.forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=18849&highlight=evap

I know it is not detailed directions, but it will give you a good idea of what is necessary. Basically, lower one side of the cradle and loosen the other to gain access. push/pull/tug to get that damn "not-so-quick-connect" loose. the metal bracket I used a screwdriver to "pry the tang". It pops out, and the new one goes on in reverse. Not too difficult, if you can find the replacement, and access the area to R/R.

AVIDMOTION
08-06-2014, 06:29 AM
Thanks! I think I ordered the wrong part. I ordered the solenoid purge valve which is under the hood. When I tried to look what parts the article said purge valve so I found out were it was and ordered the part. Now I see others are replacing the hard to get to part near the gas tank.
We will see. Also got a tire sensor light now too. Wtf everything at once! I am about to drive 1500 miles back to NJ to get my car inspected and now I throw codes which will fail me!

todds87ss
08-06-2014, 07:02 AM
sorry about the confusion. It should be listed as a canister vent solenoid.

AVIDMOTION
08-07-2014, 10:43 AM
Np...for future reference I tried tightening my gas gap. I bought a new Stant gas cap. I installed the purge valve under the hood. None of these worked. The purge valve Selenoid by fuel tank is on order. Due in a few days. I will post part numbers later for all parts I used thus so....it did get rid of one of my codes, the po445, the po449 is still on and irritating me. Also just got a tire sensor code too, when it rains it pours!

AVIDMOTION
08-30-2014, 11:50 PM
Finally got code off. It was the purge valve canister solenoid under rear of car near or on the gas tank. My mechanic did the replacement and wrote up a quick how to replace. I will post after he gives it to me for posting.

2fast4
12-16-2014, 04:53 PM
Code 449... i recently had this code pop up. After reading all the good info on this site..i tackled the problem my self. I removed the pass rear tire.. found that i had to loosen the 2 cradle bolts enough to get both hands in there to get clamp off hose.. other than that not to bad of a job. Cleared light..it was off for 4 days.. check engine light came back on! So back in i go... test light in hand..no power to plug in.. so upon further checking i found at the connector right by the gas tank a rock must of flew up and hit the orange wire..it had rotted into..had signs of the green death. I cut out the bad spot and spliced it..cleared the code..all good!

STL_G8GT
12-16-2014, 04:59 PM
Code 449... i recently had this code pop up. After reading all the good info on this site..i tackled the problem my self. I removed the pass rear tire.. found that i had to loosen the 2 cradle bolts enough to get both hands in there to get clamp off hose.. other than that not to bad of a job. Cleared light..it was off for 4 days.. check engine light came back on! So back in i go... test light in hand..no power to plug in.. so upon further checking i found at the connector right by the gas tank a rock must of flew up and hit the orange wire..it had rotted into..had signs of the green death. I cut out the bad spot and spliced it..cleared the code..all good!


2fast, that's great info, nice addition!! Thanks!