Car won't start - Clicking noise (x2)

[Periodic]

So i had a site meeting this afternoon. Left the office at 2:15, met briefly at 2:30, was back to the office at 3:00. Car ran perfectly. Went to go home at 4:00, key in ignition, nothing.

So i tried it again, same result. As soon as I move the key to the start position, i hear a clicking sound which sounds like a relay of some sort under the dash. I was a few second on silence, and i head a 2nd click from what sounds like under the hood. All the interiors lights and what not work perfectly, and the car is turning over at all. It does not sound like a bad battery.

I tried the security system fuse under dash (read quickly in another thread), it's good, and the starter fuse under the hood also appears to be in good health.

Have also tried, per LightningG8/I12XLR8 advice, getting car into neutral and moving the car, back to park and reattempting, with no luck.

Does this sound like a starter problem, or bad ground?

I should mention that it is a fairly windy day and it is misty/spitting rain outside. Car is stock with magnaflows, VCM intake removed for winter months.

Much appreciate any advice.

[WhatNext]

You didn't say how old the battery is. Does the car start with a jump?

[Periodic]

Likely stock battery, if battery still has juice, wouldnt it attempt to turn it over? I'll get a jump tomorrow :( had to call my wife to come pick me up at work.

[WhatNext]

The problem is not enough juice. The starter motor needs a lot of current.

If it is the original battery, then you are way over due. They started dropping at the 3 yr mark.

[Periodic]

Used a friends car to try to boost the car, same result a faint clicking sound.

With the hood up, a "click" is heard from the back of the engine, as well as a quieter click from the fuse box. Battery still seems to have plenty of juice, but something is preventing the starter from getting a signal to "start".

[LDM]

Have you checked the ECM fuses? There's one in the trunk and one under the hood. Someone else had a won't crank issue and it turned out to be the ECM fuse in the trunk: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=36486

[-Ray-]

There are only a few things that would prevent the starter from engaging.
1) bad battery
2) bad starter
3) poor battery connection

[Periodic]

Tried the ECM fuse in the trunk.

With the fuse removed, there was no "clicking" sound, and absolutely no reaction from turning the key.

Swapped with the radio 15A fuse in the trunk, and got the same result as before, essentially ruling out the bad fuse. Don't have the tools at work to remove and test grounds, but will bring a set in tomorrow.

Pulled the ECU#1 fuse in the engine compartment and it appeared to be ok.

Here is a youtube video of the sequence.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3PE8QIDmyY

[jcmGT]

based on non-G8 experience, the starter is hung up. When you hit the key, you hear the starter click, then hear a circuit breaker in the fuse box as it's drawing too much current. Since I have not had this issue on the G8, I'm guessing it's a circuit breaker in the underhood fuse box -if not, all bets off.

Throw a socket/breaker on the crank see if it turns over.

[EcoBrick Bob]

I had this happen a couple weeks ago... bad battery.

[TailG8er]

Battery needs to be replaced most likely.

I had to replace every one in the 4 G8's I have had. All had around 30,000 miles or less and all were 2009+

[Periodic]

Any way to test? I still have power to everything, ill have my multimeter tomorrow and a socket set to loosen and tighten any grounds I can actually get to.

[TailG8er]

Any way to test? I still have power to everything, ill have my multimeter tomorrow and a socket set to loosen and tighten any grounds I can actually get to.

Yes at the battery should be about 12.6 V with nothing on.

I just swapped one out of a Saab, it has 11.7V but not enough to get it going.

[Tuclis]

If it's a stock battery. It should be an AGM. Those are very reliable and should last much longer than a normal flooded battery. Im still on my original AGM and expect more years out of it. Thats one reason the military and aviation have been using them for decades. That an their extreme resistance to vibration. Partly of which is why AGM batteries are being placed inside vehicles now. With that said, only a test/charge/retest will tell you if its bad.

[Periodic]

Using my old analog multimeter, the battery is (still) putting out a spec of 12V. I needed to use the 0-50V setting, so the decimal accuracy may be slightly off, but it was definitely on the north side of 12. Did not test for amperage.

I attemped the crank rotate trick with no luck, rotated he crank about 180* degress (+/-3 60* swipes). Same net result. Any way to access the starter without getting under the car? Current tools on side include various pliers and a full socket set with sizes up to 1-1/4 and 24mm.

Thanks guys.

[00 Trans Ram]

Can you get a jump start and drive to auto parts store?

Ask an electrical engineer for more details, but volts don't really tell the story. You can be outputting 12v by just stringing together 8 AA batteries. But, no way they have enough amps to start the car (you'd need something like 450 of them to provide the 225 amps needed/desired). So, you need to measure the amps that your battery is outputting. There are tools to do this, but few people have them.

Go to the parts store and have them test it. Their little machine tests the battery (volts and amps), if your car is drawing too much juice (a bad ground), or if the alternator isn't charging the battery. Plus - when they tell you that "X is wrong with your car", you can buy it right there!

[Periodic]

Thanks for the reply 00, I attempted to jump it yesterday but was unsuccessful. I may have to resort to a tow, which will require a special low profile truck and dolleys to access the 4th floor below ground. Called dealer and they said battery and starter are not covered under extended warranty. So if i tow it, it's going to my grandpas house who has an old school monkey pit and good lighting that i can access the starter and try to trace it. At lunch i am going to attempt to loosen and retighten all the grounds. Not sure how i am going to get to the grounds on the back of the drivers side head, its pretty tight back there.

[00 Trans Ram]

Ah - I see your dilemma.

For jumping, I've noticed that the connection of the clamps matters A LOT. If the clamps of the cables aren't really grabbing the battery posts, it simply doesn't work. You can rev the good motor all you want, but it won't work. Then, you go jiggle a clamp and it suddenly starts like it was meant to.

Head to a auto store and buy a new battery. Install it. If it works, then there was your problem. If not, then you can uninstall the battery and return it to the store and try plan B.

[mtnhickorynut]

Jumping with a bad battery can be iffy. I believe you'll need a battery. If you can, check the Voltage under load, such as when trying to crank or with the headlight on. Shouldn't see much of a drop with the lights on only but will see some drop if it engages the starter, if it drops down below 10 then you definitely have a battery in your future. Exide Edge is an AGM replacement available otherwise the Deka battery, which is sold at O'Reiley's is a good battery. Good luck and we hope it is something simple and expected - like the battery.

[Periodic]

Still no progress, but i just spent my whole lunch hour looking for this one thread. I had read it on Monday night, and for the life of me couldn't easily search it today at lunch.

Anyways, good information here about the different fuse panels and relays, as well as a full wiring diagram for the starter.

Figured this would be helpful for anybody else who stumbles onto this thread.

http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=36486&highlight=diagram

[Periodic]

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Diagrams/StartingCircuit.jpg

[LDM]

Still no progress, but i just spent my whole lunch hour looking for this one thread. I had read it on Monday night, and for the life of me couldn't easily search it today at lunch.

I had the link in my post up above

[Doug Hilliard]

I'm with a couple others on here; you will probably need a battery. I had this exact problem with mine. Had the battery tested and the store said it was fine so I dropped the starter and took it in and had it tested. It tested fine. I charged the battery but it would slowly discharge overnight and not start the car. I thought I might have a short, but finally went back to the parts store and bought a battery, installed it and bingo, no more problems! I don't know if they didn't know what they were doing with the battery checker or what was up but the battery solved all my problems.

[Periodic]

I had the link in my post up above
wow..sometimes you just get carried away and don't even look under your nose.

[00 Trans Ram]

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Diagrams/StartingCircuit.jpg

So weird - my wiring looks NOTHING like that. I've got wires snaking all over the car, under crap, behind things, disappearing into random looms, etc. And, mine are all these funky colors.

If my wiring was as neat as all that, I'd be a happy man!

hahahaha

[LDM]

So weird - my wiring looks NOTHING like that. I've got wires snaking all over the car, under crap, behind things, disappearing into random looms, etc. And, mine are all these funky colors.

If my wiring was as neat as all that, I'd be a happy man!

hahahaha

Yeah but if your automatic transmission was just a dashed box it probably wouldn't work very well. How would you keep the fluid in it?

[Crazy8]

My car also did the same thing when the battery died. Voltage looked okay when not cranking the car and jump starting didn't work at all. I bought a new battery just to try it out, and that was it. Everything worked like it was supposed to with the new battery.

[00 Trans Ram]

Yeah but if your automatic transmission was just a dashed box it probably wouldn't work very well. How would you keep the fluid in it?

Dunno - I don't see anything about fluid in the diagram. Must not be needed!

[-Ray-]

Anyone else want to hit his starter with a hammer?

[STL_G8GT]

Anyone else want to hit his starter with a hammer?

Crossed my mind....

[Periodic]

Not sure I can even get to it.

Kicker here is that the car is stuck at work...4th floor underground and a very poorly lit area.

Tomorrow im going to try swapping batteries. If that does work ill use my wifes emergency jack to try to get the front end up high enough to give the starter a tap. Shes tight in there behind the stock manifolds.

[todds87ss]

2 things. Try to jump start using the underhood terminals. Poor connections in the trunk may be causing a problem. Also check voltage from the + underhood to ground. Iif car jumps - it's the battery. If not it's the starter (most likely)

Also, I cannot believe that you have extended warranty that does not cover the starter. If I had an extended warranty, I would just replace the battery with a new one, then have it towed to the dealer and tell them to fix it (under warranty).

[-Ray-]

You can also use engineering mode to see the batteries state of charge.

[I12XLR8]

I also want to tap on the starter. Really badly ;-)

My battery is available for testing if you need it. We can also test your battery and charging system if you can get it started and get it here.

So weird that the battery would go from fine to so dead that it won't even engage the starter. Seems....too final too fast.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[Periodic]

Todd, I will give your suggestion a try at lunch, however I doubt it will solve the issue.

This morning I swapped batteries with a 1 year old 700CCA out of my wifes altima. Problem persisted. Although my battery is now down to 11.95V likely because of so much tinkering, i don't think my problem lies with the battery.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/redzed99/G8%20GT/20131121_072009.jpg

I am also getting steady power at the underhood Relay R12..however based on the wiring diagram above, it should be pin#30. Now reading the pin placement on the relay side, it doesn't make sense for this socket to be #30. However it is the only one with full time power so it must be the appropriate one.

I have swapped relays with the defroster relay, with no change in result. So the relay should still be good.


Based on the above, I can rule out;
Battery,
15A Starter fuse in trunk
175A inline fuse
40A starter fuse
R12 Relay.

The only thing left in the main circuit is the starter. I may try jumping the relay at lunch with a paper clip. This would similate an ignition switch, and should isolate if the starter is the problem or not.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/redzed99/Capture-2.jpg

[LDM]

I am also getting steady power at the underhood Relay R12..however based on the wiring diagram above, it should be pin#30. Now reading the pin placement on the relay side, it doesn't make sense for this socket to be #30. However it is the only one with full time power so it must be the appropriate one.


The relays are designed so that even if they go in backwards they still work. Pins 30 and 87 are for the switch side and 85 and 86 are for the coil side, and it doesn't matter which way the current flows through either pair. If you put the relay in backwards, because the pins are diagonal from each other, it doesn't matter. Based on the drawing in the service manual though, the pin you're pointing to with the probe is indeed pin #30.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Diagrams/DSC_5455.jpg

[Periodic]

Sweet, thanks! I know now which socket is "87" I should be able to simply jump #30 to #87 and turn the starter.

Rubber bands and a large paper clip were just sniped from the supply cabinet at work. Kind of ghetto, but as long as it provides continuity to complete the circuit it should help me isolate the issue. I'll report back at lunch.

[LDM]

Another thing you can check while you're at it, is if you get voltage at pin 86 when you turn the key. This will require a second person, but will let you know if the ECM is even commanding the starter to crank.

[Periodic]

Another thing you can check while you're at it, is if you get voltage at pin 86 when you turn the key. This will require a second person, but will let you know if the ECM is even commanding the starter to crank.

This. Was. Gold.

Couldn't wait, had a coworker come down with me. I get power at pin 86 when turning the key. I get fulltime power at pin 30. Only remaining thing to do is check starter.

jumped pin30 to pin 87 with a paper clip. loud "click" from starter, but no rotation.

Will try to get the car elevated after work and tap on it.

[LDM]

Here's the service manual info on what seems to be your situation

Starter Solenoid Clicks, Engine Does Not Crank

Diagnostic Instructions
• Perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle prior to using this diagnostic procedure.
• Review Strategy Based Diagnosis for an overview of the diagnostic approach.
• Diagnostic Procedure Instructions provides an overview of each diagnostic category.

Reference Information
Schematic Reference
Starting and Charging Schematics

Connector End View Reference
Component Connector End Views

Description and Operation
Starting System Description and Operation

Electrical Information Reference

• Circuit Testing
• Connector Repairs
• Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
• Wiring Repairs

Scan Tool Reference
Control Module References for scan tool information

Circuit/System Verification

Verify that battery is sufficiently charged and that the battery cables are clean and tight.
⇒ If battery not sufficiently charged, refer to Battery Charging.
⇒ If battery cables are not within specified torque , refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications.
Place the ignition switch to the start position. The starter solenoid should click.
⇒ If starter solenoid does not click. refer to Starter Solenoid Does Not Click
Remove the drive belts Refer to Drive Belt Replacement for the 3.6L engine or Drive Belt Replacement - Accessory for the 6.0L engine.
Place the ignition switch to the START position.
⇒ If the engine cranks, inspect the engine and belt drive system for mechanical binding, seized engine, or seized generator, etc.
⇒ If the engine does not crank, refer to Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate for the 3.6L engine or Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate for the 6.0L engine.
Test for less than 0.5 volts between the positive battery cable and terminal A X1 at the solenoid as the ignition switch is placed to the START position.
⇒ If greater than the specified value, replace the positive battery cable.
Test for less than 0.5 volts between the negative battery cable and the starter motor case as the ignition switch is placed to the START position.
⇒ If greater than the specified value, replace the negative battery cable.
If all circuits test normal, replace the starter motor.


Repair Instructions
Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification after completing the diagnostic procedure.

• Battery Positive Cable Replacement
• Battery Negative Cable Replacement
• Starter Motor Replacement

[I12XLR8]

I was going to add something here but LDM has it covered ;-)

[texn884]

Hope its something that turns out simple

[Periodic]

Here's the service manual info on what seems to be your situation

Starter Solenoid Clicks, Engine Does Not Crank

Diagnostic Instructions
• Perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle prior to using this diagnostic procedure.
• Review Strategy Based Diagnosis for an overview of the diagnostic approach.
• Diagnostic Procedure Instructions provides an overview of each diagnostic category.

Reference Information
Schematic Reference
Starting and Charging Schematics

Connector End View Reference
Component Connector End Views

Description and Operation
Starting System Description and Operation

Electrical Information Reference

• Circuit Testing
• Connector Repairs
• Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
• Wiring Repairs

Scan Tool Reference
Control Module References for scan tool information

Circuit/System Verification

Verify that battery is sufficiently charged and that the battery cables are clean and tight.
⇒ If battery not sufficiently charged, refer to Battery Charging.
⇒ If battery cables are not within specified torque , refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications.
Place the ignition switch to the start position. The starter solenoid should click.
⇒ If starter solenoid does not click. refer to Starter Solenoid Does Not Click
Remove the drive belts Refer to Drive Belt Replacement for the 3.6L engine or Drive Belt Replacement - Accessory for the 6.0L engine.
Place the ignition switch to the START position.
⇒ If the engine cranks, inspect the engine and belt drive system for mechanical binding, seized engine, or seized generator, etc.
⇒ If the engine does not crank, refer to Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate for the 3.6L engine or Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate for the 6.0L engine.
Test for less than 0.5 volts between the positive battery cable and terminal A X1 at the solenoid as the ignition switch is placed to the START position.
⇒ If greater than the specified value, replace the positive battery cable.
Test for less than 0.5 volts between the negative battery cable and the starter motor case as the ignition switch is placed to the START position.
⇒ If greater than the specified value, replace the negative battery cable.
If all circuits test normal, replace the starter motor.


Repair Instructions
Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification after completing the diagnostic procedure.

• Battery Positive Cable Replacement
• Battery Negative Cable Replacement
• Starter Motor Replacement

So, when testing the starter (if i can get to it), with the ignition in start position (somebody turning the key), i should see less than 0.5V at the starter motor? Does the solenoid reduce the voltage, as there should be 12V leaving the relay.

[LDM]

So, when testing the starter (if i can get to it), with the ignition in start position (somebody turning the key), i should see less than 0.5V at the starter motor? Does the solenoid reduce the voltage, as there should be 12V leaving the relay.

It's saying less than 0.5V between the positive battery cable and terminal A X1. Each one of those to ground should be nominal 12V, but between them should be 0V. Instead of your black meter probe being on a ground and the red on a hot, each probe will be on a hot, so the potential difference between them should be nothing.

[LDM]

I highly doubt the issue is with one of the cables though, it's almost certainly the starter that's the problem

[todds87ss]

I'll repeat my suggestion to appeal the warranty decision...does not sound right to me.

[-Ray-]

I still want to hit that starter with a hammer.

[I12XLR8]

I'll repeat my suggestion to appeal the warranty decision...does not sound right to me.

I'm fairly sure he got a clear no. But if not, this would be my route. Problem is that changing the starter is what the tow alone will cost if he's not covered. He's 4 stories down in underground parking ;-(

Edit: unless GM roadside assistance is still active and will get him...

[Periodic]

Yes, dealer confirmed no warranty on starter outside of bumper to bumper.

I do have roadside, but taking it to the dealer will cost me $383 + tax for the part + however many hours they want for the install. Meanwhile, Grant is helping me out quite a bit and has ordered the starter for me since already had an order in from Pace. Unfortunately, I won't be able to report much until the part is on hand.

I have the roadside assistance program through costco, free tows up to 250km. Due to the spot i am in, i am really skeptical about towing it out, but this job will be way easier to tackle at home with good lighting than at work.

[TonyKarter]

When you get the old one out connect it to a battery. Like G8 Ray said, hit it a couple of times with a ball peen hammer. If it scares the shit out of you 'cause it came after you then reinstall it and save the new one for later when you really need it.

[TooManyHobbies]

I you can't whack it with a hammer directly because of access issues, why can't you rest something like a steel pipe on it and then whack the end of the steel pipe?

[TonyKarter]

'Cuz its more fun to take it out and let it chase you...

[TailG8er]

Try putting power right to it, bypassing the factory wiring.

[STL_G8GT]

'Cuz its more fun to take it out and let it chase you...

X2

[Periodic]

I jumped the r12 relay and sent power directly to starter. Loud snap/click. Starter has been ordered from pace, it should be here next week.

[todds87ss]

I wonder when "bumper to Bumper" got changed to "b to b except the starter".

what a load of crap. I'd review my paperwork. The battery is not covered - I get that. The Starter IS covered - at least always has been.

[I12XLR8]

I also don't understand the starter thing. What about the alternator? Or the fuel pump? Why the starter? If it is a part that they expect to fail then that is all the more reason why it should be covered.

Maybe our resident GM customer service contact should get in on this and help Periodic understand the ins and outs of his warranty.

[GM Customer Service]

Hello I12XLR8,

The starter would be covered under the bumper to bumper warranty as long as it was a defect that made the part fail. I believe that Periodic stated that he has an aftermarket extended warranty since his bumper to bumper warranty has expired, but please let me know if I am not correct. GM does offer a GMPP, which is a service contract and not a warranty. Our dealerships do sell aftermarket extended warranties and that may be what Periodic has. I don’t have any information regarding those aftermarket warranties, but if Periodic does have a GMPP, I would be happy to use his VIN to research if the starter would be covered under that service contract.

Gregory W.
GM Customer Care

[vert]

I hope it just your starter and I hope you will not need a battery. My factory battery just died when I was leaving for work yesterday morning. Car started to turn over then all I got was clicking sound. That morning my wife drove my daughters car so I stole the battery out of her car, 2009 Malibu. Put it in and I got the same noise a few clicks, lights blinked and then nothing. Went to Walmart, picked up a new battery and it fired right up. Not sure why her battery did not work, but i placed it back into her car and it was slow to fire up, but it did start.

[I12XLR8]

Ryan, hopefully GM can help.

Also, maybe we should try VERT's suggestion and put a battery in it. I can order you one in and I'll take it back if it doesn't work. I'm good like that ;-) (although I know I told you I couldn't! I talked to the rep today and interstate has us covered).

Text me.

[Periodic]

Hello I12XLR8,

The starter would be covered under the bumper to bumper warranty as long as it was a defect that made the part fail. I believe that Periodic stated that he has an aftermarket extended warranty since his bumper to bumper warranty has expired, but please let me know if I am not correct. GM does offer a GMPP, which is a service contract and not a warranty. Our dealerships do sell aftermarket extended warranties and that may be what Periodic has. I don’t have any information regarding those aftermarket warranties, but if Periodic does have a GMPP, I would be happy to use his VIN to research if the starter would be covered under that service contract.

Gregory W.
GM Customer Care

Thanks Greg. It is GMPP powertrain only, valid until Feb 2014/160,000km. I will PM you my VIN.


I hope it just your starter and I hope you will not need a battery. My factory battery just died when I was leaving for work yesterday morning. Car started to turn over then all I got was clicking sound. That morning my wife drove my daughters car so I stole the battery out of her car, 2009 Malibu. Put it in and I got the same noise a few clicks, lights blinked and then nothing. Went to Walmart, picked up a new battery and it fired right up. Not sure why her battery did not work, but i placed it back into her car and it was slow to fire up, but it did start.
I hooked up another battery to the car last week, only 1 year old, that works in my wifes car. It did not change the net result. Still got a "click". Usually a bad battery will still attempt to rotate the crank, but won't have the power to keep rotating.

I have since traced power supply, and the final relay before the starter is commanding power when it should (to activate starter). I have attempted to "jump" the circuit, and get a loud click/snap sound from the passenger side, rear enginer area (starter location). All fuses are good and pass continuity test. It's either starter/solenoid/wire.

I have ordered a new starter, which was shipped out today, starter includes the solenoid, so the only remaining possibility would be the connection to battery.


Ryan, hopefully GM can help.

Also, maybe we should try VERT's suggestion and put a battery in it. I can order you one in and I'll take it back if it doesn't work. I'm good like that ;-) (although I know I told you I couldn't! I talked to the rep today and interstate has us covered).

Text me.

Again Grant, thanks for all your help! Very glad you stuck with the community.

[Periodic]

Hey guys, have a little update. No the car is not running yet, but i thought i would post some of my findings.

Since i am 4 levels underground, i pushed my car to a nearby receptacle and also did my best to position to benefit from the fluorescent lighting. Jacked the car up and went to work.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/redzed99/G8%20GT/20131202_174120.jpg

I struggled to get the cat free from the exhaust manifold, the rear bolt is very tricky to get too. with my deep 3/8" 15mm socket, reducer, universal joint, 3 extension bars, a breaker bar, and a scrap peice of 2x4 used for leverage we got it free.

Got the cat off, and the starter itself came loose pretty easily, however, it is VERY tight in there, I really don't even know how i got the thing out, but 5-10 minutes of wiggling between the exhaust manifold and the lower engine mount, i managed to get it free. then i disconnected the main power feed, as well as the solenoid control feed. things are never easy eh?

Anyways, tonight i hooked it up to a charged battery to test it out. This thing is completely bummed. neither solenoid or starter would turn over, just short out.

Here is the video. Powered up the positive feed, grounded the casing, then used mini jumpers to activate the solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-O9nybrSgg

Some pics..
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/redzed99/G8%20GT/20131203_191025_16.jpg


And writing on the starter; can't believe it has ink pens (looks like something you;d find in a junkyard)...
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/redzed99/G8%20GT/20131203_191534.jpg

and the badge on the starter; Mitsubishi - wtf?? not even ACdelco, not Genuine GM product? Very weird
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/redzed99/G8%20GT/20131203_191551.jpg

Now, it may be related, or completely unrelated, but the dealer had my car in for warranty work in August (lifters and cam replaced). Prior to the warranty work, the car would start very quickly, every time. Since then, it has been very lethargic to start, frequently taking 3-5 seconds, of whur whur whir vroom, versus normal wh-vroom.

Stay tuned lads!

[LDM]

For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure my starter is original, and it's a Mitsubishi.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/9d28060a-b409-433b-b443-f9bcda9c0aad.jpg

[-Ray-]

Mitsubishi is one of my customers. The one in Indiana makes A/C compressors. GM is one of their customers. Their are hundreds of manufacturers that make automotive parts. The air bags and seats aren't made by GM either.

This is also a good warning for those in the Northern climates.

[Periodic]

I know it was pretty obvious from the video...but the starter was the culprit. New starter installed this afternoon in pretty good time.

HUGE thanks to Grant, I12XLR8 for not only ordering the part for me..but also taking time outof his busy schedule to drive down to Ogdensburg to pick it up. Oh and for stopping by for moral support whilr reassembling. Sometime in the next week I will disassemble the old starter and post pictures.

[G8 GT V8]

Mine has a misterbitchi starter too from the factory. I think it is a common piece.

[LDM]

This thread got me wondering. The part number on my starter as seen above is 92225205; only thing I can find that used this in this country is the 2009.5 G8. It seems Caprice PPVs and Camaros use 12617229, which from the pictures I've found looks the same, but it's an ACDelco. I wonder if Holden just used the Mitsubishi starters due to Australia's global location, and if we'd be better off using the Delco since it's probably more readily available here.

I'm just curious, what was the part number of the new starter you got from Pace, and is it a Mitsubishi like your original or an ACDelco?

[Periodic]

Its a mitsu...I didnt check part number..but will reconfirm with the box tomorrow.

[I12XLR8]

I know it was pretty obvious from the video...but the starter was the culprit. New starter installed this afternoon in pretty good time.

HUGE thanks to Grant, I12XLR8 for not only ordering the part for me..but also taking time outof his busy schedule to drive down to Ogdensburg to pick it up. Oh and for stopping by for moral support whilr reassembling. Sometime in the next week I will disassemble the old starter and post pictures.

You are very welcome but I had no choice. I couldn't stand by while a G8 needed my help ;-)

Glad I was able to catch the first starting attempt (successful!). It felt good.


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[DySea]

I had the same thing happen a couple of months ago. I blamed it on the gear shift. Same symptoms as Periodic. Called the tow truck. When he tried it, it managed to turn over and start. Haven't had any problems since, but thanks to this I will keep an eye open for the starter.

[Steve]

HUGE thanks to Grant, I12XLR8 for not only ordering the part for me..but also taking time outof his busy schedule to drive down to Ogdensburg to pick it up. Oh and for stopping by for moral support whilr reassembling. Sometime in the next week I will disassemble the old starter and post pictures.

This right here is what makes the G8 Community so great - Way to Go I12XLR8! :thumbsup:

[WhatNext]

Awesome!

[-Ray-]

Way to go Grant!