What an extra 100 hp translates into?

[solty]

I have been enjoying my recently new found power (dynoed at 420 rwhp) but i have been surprised recently that the difference in a rolling street race does not translate into hearth shattering advantage over cars with 100 hp less power. I always reel them up and put one or two car length between us over a half mile stretch but i thought the difference would be more....are my expectations unrealistic?
I realize there are a lot of factors that will impact the outcome, but as a general rule, what does an extra 100 hp (400 vs 500 hp at the crank) translate into ?
Car length advantage lets say after a 1/4 miles?
Would you expect the advantage to be more pronounced in a race from a dig than a rolling race from 80 mph?

Cheers

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[GRRRR8]

Roll racing from 80mph? Your race for your power level would be from a dead stop(as most REAL races are). If you insist on roll racing get a higher stall convertor and race from a 2nd gear roll at about 2-3000 rpms.

[rocket69GTP]

Try starting from 40-45 mph as that seems to be the sweet spot for G8's (this will vary if you have a stall, gears, and other supporting mods).

[solty]

Ok! So i infer from your comment that at 80 mph 100 hp extra at the crank does not translate into much because both cars have plenty of momentum....but from a dig the 100 hp advantage would pay dividends.

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[SpeedRacerX]

Try starting from 40-45 mph as that seems to be the sweet spot for G8's (this will vary if you have a stall, gears, and other supporting mods).

Agreed. My car is down right scary at 40mph - like it leaps.

[SpeedRacerX]

OP, no one is really answering the question you posed for the most part although you can infer a few things.

Off the line, there are so many factors: Tq, weight, gearing, traction, other mods, etc, etc, etc. What I worry about is a 500rwhp G8 getting beat 0-60 or 1/4 mile by a 320rwhp AWD Subaru or Evo because the G8 can't put it all to the ground, especially in DD scenarios where the G8 might not be running around on DRs on the street...like me.

From a roll, especially the starting speeds you indicated, assuming you are in your punch-it sweet spot (about 70mph unless your mods dictate otherwise), vehicle weight is no longer as much of a factor and traction is less of a factor although some will jump on here and tell you how they get sideways at 80mph.

At those speeds, factors like gearing, rotational mass, aerodynamics and frontal area, where the vehicle makes it power, and of course horsepower are critical.

To your question, if all other factors were equal, my guess is that an extra 100HP will yield you 10 car lengths over the other car but remember, the HP need to overcome drag at higher speeds curves up like a hockey stick the faster you go. So while 100HP might help you tack on 10 car lengths from 40 to 90, it might only be 7 car lengths from 70-120 or 4 car lengths from 90+.

[solty]

SpeedracerX, thanks for the detail explanation. I can relate to your logic. What i need to do once the temp goes up a bit is to take it to the strip and see what she returns, i think that might be the best apple to apple comparison though i am sure there are still plenty of factors like driver response time....

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[SpeedRacerX]

The track is a whole different story. LOL.

[gr8lover]

The track is a whole different story. LOL.

+1!!!!

I can get killed by a 500rwhp G8 on the street.... but not on the track....

Weight is huge and just as important as hp on the street.... traction, traction, traction.... Driver mod on street and fully knowing your car and how it reacts makes all the difference and is way more important than hp figures... thats why street racing is silly cause it really proves nothing and varies so much....

it would be interesting to see vids of two identical cars with different rwhp numbers (from same dyno same day) so see how they compare.... this would be a great thread!!!

[Eric_GT]

500+ whp imo is a totally different car. Now I was only 374whp before my build. And honestly I thought that was a fast car, and it was.
But at over 500, now I feel I have a car that if I can get traction (IF!) it is faster than most cars I am going to encounter.
That is not something I will test regularly. But it is a pleasure to know, if you know what I mean.

BUT, the most fun thing about 500+ is being able to feather the throttle at just about any legal speed at 2000 rpm and break the tires loose. I lmao off every time driving down the road at 45 mph and then just breaking the tires loose to take off.
And burnouts....I am thinking they are nothing more than a joke now. Powerbrake, why?

[Edsel1134]

I have been enjoying my recently new found power (dynoed at 420 rwhp) but i have been surprised recently that the difference in a rolling street race does not translate into hearth shattering advantage over cars with 100 hp less power. I always reel them up and put one or two car length between us over a half mile stretch but i thought the difference would be more....are my expectations unrealistic?
I realize there are a lot of factors that will impact the outcome, but as a general rule, what does an extra 100 hp (400 vs 500 hp at the crank) translate into ?
Car length advantage lets say after a 1/4 miles?
Would you expect the advantage to be more pronounced in a race from a dig than a rolling race from 80 mph?

Cheers

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Ok.. Here is my insight on our fooling around..
The first few pulls u had gotten infront of me before hand.. So draft was in my favor.. And idk if u know this but I had my friends is keep up for a good second in my draft line.. And every one is correct on the 80mph plus rolls.. If we had lined up at a light blue car would of looked like an escort :)

And driver response time.. Luck of throttle response and down shift time.. To many unknowns at a high speed like that..

How do u like the 2C? I'm pondering this :)

[solty]

Edsel1134 it was not just with you brother.....the stretch of highway we travel is full of enthusiast wanting to chalenge the G8....thus far all have failed ;-) :first:
I love the 2C, no regrets the car is so much fun, from the lope, the sound at iddle and at WOT.
I really never had such experience with such increase in HP and never took it to the track so had no reference point hence my question to gage how much an increase in 100 HP translates into during a rolling race.
The unanimous feed back which make sense to me is that from a dig the extra HP translate into more difference than from a roll.
You should do the cam, you will love it. Though in your case since you already have the header and cat back, the cam may be good for maybe 50 Rwhp?
I think this summer I will hit the strip at Milan. This past year Livernois had a customer appreciation day at the strip, but the weather did not cooperate.
I work in an engineering firm with some serious gear heads, one guy has a viper with a compressor and we've been talking about going to Milan one of those day...


Ok.. Here is my insight on our fooling around..
The first few pulls u had gotten infront of me before hand.. So draft was in my favor.. And idk if u know this but I had my friends is keep up for a good second in my draft line.. And every one is correct on the 80mph plus rolls.. If we had lined up at a light blue car would of looked like an escort :)

And driver response time.. Luck of throttle response and down shift time.. To many unknowns at a high speed like that..

How do u like the 2C? I'm pondering this :)

[Edsel1134]

Edsel1134 it was not just with you brother.....the stretch of highway we travel is full of enthusiast wanting to chalenge the G8....thus far all have failed ;-) :first:
I love the 2C, no regrets the car is so much fun, from the lope, the sound at iddle and at WOT.
I really never had such experience with such increase in HP and never took it to the track so had no reference point hence my question to gage how much an increase in 100 HP translates into during a rolling race.
The unanimous feed back which make sense to me is that from a dig the extra HP translate into more difference than from a roll.
You should do the cam, you will love it. Though in your case since you already have the header and cat back, the cam may be good for maybe 50 Rwhp?
I think this summer I will hit the strip at Milan. This past year Livernois had a customer appreciation day at the strip, but the weather did not cooperate.
I work in an engineering firm with some serious gear heads, one guy has a viper with a compressor and we've been talking about going to Milan one of those day...

They said with supportive mods I should be putting down more hp.. Who knows we will see and I'm down.. Never been to a drag way.. Roadcorses are my forte though.. :). That's why I brought up the drafting :) and yeah that stretch I get lots of attention.. Mostly from trolls incars from a 240sx, cobalt SS, to magnums and Sho Lmfao

[GRRRR8]

I would like to elaborate on this so everyone can have a better understanding.

1. You must know your car! You have to know at what MPH you are able to be in the best gear(M2-M3). Using my car as an example: 3.45 gears, loose 3600 stall and it ALWAYS has drag radials on and making 500RWHP NA, there is no way I can go from a very slow roll in M1. IMPOSSIBLE! There is no way I can hit the shift as it revs so fast it will hit the rev limiter.

I drive around my area in M-3 or M4 ALWAYS. You will not catch me slipping. If I am in M3 at about 2500 rpms and you floor it......you fucked up. My car will instantly jump to 4,000-4,200 rpms, no wheel spin and be gone. It took a bit of seat time to know what gear/speed I am in and have to be in to make the car perform like I want it to. I do not rely on auto downshifting. If it goes 1 gear to low and then shifts in 1-2 seconds.....I probably have to go back by them.

I have raced from a dig, let out when I am out by 10+ at 60-70 MPH and then they want to go from a roll due to their boost, traction, radio station wasn't tuned in blah blah blah. Now instead of just putting links on them and shutting it down, I explode away from them and lift at 120. Needless to say they were way more behind then 10! lol

I guess what I am saying is you don't know what the competitor has in street racing in most cases, but you MUST know how to drive YOUR car to perform at it's best. How you build your car has to suit your needs and unless you are building it for racing.......you have to except you win some and you lose some. If you lose because you didn't know how to make your combination perform........keep practicing.

[Edsel1134]

I would like to elaborate on this so everyone can have a better understanding.

1. You must know your car! You have to know at what MPH you are able to be in the best gear(M2-M3). Using my car as an example: 3.45 gears, loose 3600 stall and it ALWAYS has drag radials on and making 500RWHP NA, there is no way I can go from a very slow roll in M1. IMPOSSIBLE! There is no way I can hit the shift as it revs so fast it will hit the rev limiter.

I drive around my area in M-3 or M4 ALWAYS. You will not catch me slipping. If I am in M3 at about 2500 rpms and you floor it......you fucked up. My car will instantly jump to 4,000-4,200 rpms, no wheel spin and be gone. It took a bit of seat time to know what gear/speed I am in and have to be in to make the car perform like I want it to. I do not rely on auto downshifting. If it goes 1 gear to low and then shifts in 1-2 seconds.....I probably have to go back by them.

I have raced from a dig, let out when I am out by 10+ at 60-70 MPH and then they want to go from a roll due to their boost, traction, radio station wasn't tuned in blah blah blah. Now instead of just putting links on them and shutting it down, I explode away from them and lift at 120. Needless to say they were way more behind then 10! lol

I guess what I am saying is you don't know what the competitor has in street racing in most cases, but you MUST know how to drive YOUR car to perform at it's best. How you build your car has to suit your needs and unless you are building it for racing.......you have to except you win some and you lose some. If you lose because you didn't know how to make your combination perform........keep practicing.

Well put air!

[Edsel1134]

Sir•

[solty]

I would like to elaborate on this so everyone can have a better understanding.

1. You must know your car! You have to know at what MPH you are able to be in the best gear(M2-M3). Using my car as an example: 3.45 gears, loose 3600 stall and it ALWAYS has drag radials on and making 500RWHP NA, there is no way I can go from a very slow roll in M1. IMPOSSIBLE! There is no way I can hit the shift as it revs so fast it will hit the rev limiter.

I drive around my area in M-3 or M4 ALWAYS. You will not catch me slipping. If I am in M3 at about 2500 rpms and you floor it......you fucked up. My car will instantly jump to 4,000-4,200 rpms, no wheel spin and be gone. It took a bit of seat time to know what gear/speed I am in and have to be in to make the car perform like I want it to. I do not rely on auto downshifting. If it goes 1 gear to low and then shifts in 1-2 seconds.....I probably have to go back by them.

I have raced from a dig, let out when I am out by 10+ at 60-70 MPH and then they want to go from a roll due to their boost, traction, radio station wasn't tuned in blah blah blah. Now instead of just putting links on them and shutting it down, I explode away from them and lift at 120. Needless to say they were way more behind then 10! lol

I guess what I am saying is you don't know what the competitor has in street racing in most cases, but you MUST know how to drive YOUR car to perform at it's best. How you build your car has to suit your needs and unless you are building it for racing.......you have to except you win some and you lose some. If you lose because you didn't know how to make your combination perform........keep practicing.

Indeed wise advises....and you are dead on with being in the right gear before WOT. In everycase thus far I am in auto mode and the downshifting after WOT seems eternal....