RX Catch can empty- intake full of oil

[Buford]

Routed properly and all. I contacted RX to get an explanation. Anyone else experiencing this?

[Buford]

RX Dual Valve on left, routing along firewall

http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa451/justinyoung1983/ProCharged%20G8/2012-08-13_14-37-30_5621.jpg

[incon3037r]

:uhm:

[WickedMom]

Did you email Tracy?
Will you forward it to me, as well as pictures? Im driving home from wyoming and staying in utah tonight, so the picture here isnt loading. I'll get you a solution.


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[Buford]

Only solution that needs to happen is drill 1/4 hole in drive side valve cover where the middle tube goes. See if that helps

[LS1_Disciple]

Buford - have you tried this yet? I've seen all sorts of recommendations on the appropriate size to drill, but never as much as 1/4"

Hopefully, Tracy will chime in and answer the questions we had at the end of Jessika's catch can group buy thread - http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=32851&page=12&p=483896#post483896

Paging Tracy/SC2150 - what is the appropriate size? 1/8" seems to be in the lead right now, with 5/32" close on its heels.

[Crazy Paul]

There's 2 basic ways to use a catch can.

Sealed...is a closed route system where the catch can is sealed, it has one foul oily air hose coming in from the PCV foul air nipple & one return going from the catch can back to the intake manifold.

Vented...the catch can usually has a paper filter on it's roof and all of the collected gasses vent thru the filter to atmosphere. All of the hoses going in dump oily air into the can. There is no return line back to the intake manifold.

I cannot tell from the pics how you have routed the hoses.....however, the paper filter on your oil filler cap would suggest you are venting crankcase gasses. If you're trying to run a Sealed PCV system then there should be no venting of crankcase gasses as these are intended to all pass thru the PCV orifice of the engine.

[LS1_Disciple]

Buford - have you tried this yet? I've seen all sorts of recommendations on the appropriate size to drill, but never as much as 1/4"

Hopefully, Tracy will chime in and answer the questions we had at the end of Jessika's catch can group buy thread - http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=32851&page=12&p=483896#post483896

Paging Tracy/SC2150 - what is the appropriate size? 1/8" seems to be in the lead right now, with 5/32" close on its heels.

Well, I'll be attempting this over the weekend. With no response from SC2150, I'm just going to start with 1/8" since I could expand it later if necessary. Hopefully I can blow out all the shavings with my air compressor.

[WickedMom]

I honestly dont see how you can go wrong here. 1/8th seems to be a great starting point which may allow resolution.

[hflores3]

Well, I'll be attempting this over the weekend. With no response from SC2150, I'm just going to start with 1/8" since I could expand it later if necessary. Hopefully I can blow out all the shavings with my air compressor.

Dude, you are my "compadre" and "just air" would concern me. Any chance you have access to a parts washer? Or even washing it out with water?

I say this because, many years ago, I shaved some roller rockers to clear the retainers in an LT1 engine. I used air and a "visual" and bolted everything back up. ..... About <1k mile later I was hearing ugle noises which turned out to be badly scored cam bearing. I "strongly" suspected that it was shaving related.

I cant validate that to be the case -- but it seemed plausible -- and it was my own fault.

Be extra careful my brother.

[-Ray-]

Well, I'll be attempting this over the weekend. With no response from SC2150, I'm just going to start with 1/8" since I could expand it later if necessary. Hopefully I can blow out all the shavings with my air compressor.

If you can get a shop vac nozzle while you drill would be good.

[LS1_Disciple]

Dude, you are my "compadre" and "just air" would concern me. Any chance you have access to a parts washer? Or even washing it out with water?

I say this because, many years ago, I shaved some roller rockers to clear the retainers in an LT1 engine. I used air and a "visual" and bolted everything back up. ..... About <1k mile later I was hearing ugle noises which turned out to be badly scored cam bearing. I "strongly" suspected that it was shaving related.

I cant validate that to be the case -- but it seemed plausible -- and it was my own fault.

Be extra careful my brother.

No parts washer. I've got WD-40, trans fluid, diff oil, and coolant (and of course, water). Seems like maybe the ATF would work the best? Thoughts?

[LS1_Disciple]

Ok Henry, I just did this, and I think it's possible we've been overthinking this (not the first time for me I know). I went with 1/8" (note that a 3/32" bit just barely fit through the orifice opening, so we're talking less than 1/32" increase in diameter). The amount of drilling is incredibly miniscule, so I didn't generate that many shavings. I think the drill bit probably made 10 or 15 slow revolutions before I punched through. Here's what I was able to get out with a pick before attempting any type of flushing:

16627

NOTE/WARNING- the baffle underneath this orifice is very close to the orifice itself. Since it takes so little effort to drill through the orifice, it would be very easy to punch through the baffle, too. I used the 3/32" bit as a depth-checker so I could mark the location of the baffle on the 1/8" bit.

After I got the big pieces of shavings out, I decided to backflush it with WD-40. I figured WD-40 would be flowing much faster than the higher viscosity ATF or gear oil, and would therefore probably pick up and flush out more shavings. There is also the possibility that something oil-based would not flow out of the orifice at all and just "bridge" over it (think capillary tension). Plus, the straw on the WD-40 allows you to poke it through a hole in the baffle and deliver the fluid much closer and faster than if I had just poured in some ATF and waited for it to slowly run down the baffle and out the orifice.

I flushed the WD-40 out onto a paper towel for about a minute. When I checked the paper towel afterwards with a light, I could see the reflections of some metallic particles, but they were too small to photograph. So I'm satisfied that I actually did manage to flush something out. I was also encouraged that the particles were small and not very numerous since I wasn't expecting many shavings based on how little drilling I had to do.

Thanks for the advice, Henry. Now man-up and go do it to yours ;)

Ray - the outlet is so small, I don't think I could have gotten any type of shop vac nozzle anywhere near close enough to make a difference.

[hflores3]

Ok Henry, I just did this, and I think it's possible we've been overthinking this (not the first time for me I know). I went with 1/8" (note that a 3/32" bit just barely fit through the orifice opening, so we're talking less than 1/32" increase in diameter). The amount of drilling is incredibly miniscule, so I didn't generate that many shavings. I think the drill bit probably made 10 or 15 slow revolutions before I punched through. Here's what I was able to get out with a pick before attempting any type of flushing:

16627

NOTE/WARNING- the baffle underneath this orifice is very close to the orifice itself. Since it takes so little effort to drill through the orifice, it would be very easy to punch through the baffle, too. I used the 3/32" bit as a depth-checker so I could mark the location of the baffle on the 1/8" bit.

After I got the big pieces of shavings out, I decided to backflush it with WD-40. I figured WD-40 would be flowing much faster than the higher viscosity ATF or gear oil, and would therefore probably pick up and flush out more shavings. There is also the possibility that something oil-based would not flow out of the orifice at all and just "bridge" over it (think capillary tension). Plus, the straw on the WD-40 allows you to poke it through a hole in the baffle and deliver the fluid much closer and faster than if I had just poured in some ATF and waited for it to slowly run down the baffle and out the orifice.

I flushed the WD-40 out onto a paper towel for about a minute. When I checked the paper towel afterwards with a light, I could see the reflections of some metallic particles, but they were too small to photograph. So I'm satisfied that I actually did manage to flush something out. I was also encouraged that the particles were small and not very numerous since I wasn't expecting many shavings based on how little drilling I had to do.

Thanks for the advice, Henry. Now man-up and go do it to yours ;)

Ray - the outlet is so small, I don't think I could have gotten any type of shop vac nozzle anywhere near close enough to make a difference.

a) Way to go!!
b) Yeah...maybe we "overanalyzed" this -- but shoot -- being "anal retentive" is ever so slightly cheaper than an engine R&R. :-)
c) Now that you have supplied us with real world data -- I will "sprinkle" some Home Depot purchased Miracle Grow on my nuts and do this as well! :-)

[LS1_Disciple]

a) Way to go!!
b) Yeah...maybe we "overanalyzed" this -- but shoot -- being "anal retentive" is ever so slightly cheaper than an engine R&R. :-)
c) Now that you have supplied us with real world data -- I will "sprinkle" some Home Depot purchased Miracle Grow on my nuts and do this as well! :-)

Isn't there a warning against that on the label? I'm sure you wouldn't be the first to try, but I will not take responsibility if your future kids have grass instead of hair ;)

I'm in the process of draining the catch can to see what I've caught so far. This way, I'll also be able to accurately compare what I catch after the "orifice mod" (sounds dirty) with the before.

[SC2150]

Hi All, sorry I have not been back on the past week but if your using the RX can it will controll the flow with the integrated checkvalve so you can go even 1/4". If another brand w/out the flow controlling checkvalves 1/8" would be the largest I would go other wise you would be pulling more flow than intended and have issues with short term fuel trims, etc. :thumbsup:

Also, anyone that needs specific help can email me direct as well.

:thumbsup:

[GeoffA]

Damn those 1977 pennies...



Hope this works out.

[LS1_Disciple]

Damn those 1977 pennies...



Hope this works out.

lol...they're the hardest ones to snag with the pick, too.

For reference, here's how much I drained out after 800 miles with the stock size PCV orifice (maybe 1-2 tablespoons?):
16630

[Kermit]

How did you mount your RX can? I'm ready to do this but today when I looked at everything, the mount did not seem right for where I was wanting to install it. My old can is using the bolt next to the + battery jumper post.
http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii603/kermitg8/Oil%20Catch%20Can/GEDC0479_zps82a86c3f.jpghttp://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii603/kermitg8/Oil%20Catch%20Can/GEDC0476_zps26b7ae36.jpg
Did you use the mount that was supplied or what? Looking at the new can, it looks like the mount needs to bend 90 degrees to be able to use this mount.
http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii603/kermitg8/Oil%20Catch%20Can/GEDC0470_zps8660ea37.jpg
http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii603/kermitg8/Oil%20Catch%20Can/GEDC0471_zps12947118.jpg

[LS1_Disciple]

No, I did not use that bracket. I think that bracket is if you wanted to mount the can on the front of the passenger side head. Here's where mine is mounted (not the best pic, but the only one I've got):

16677

The bracket I used is just an L-bracket I got from Home Depot (around the lumber section where they have the various fence brackets). It was similar to this one, but the one I used had a long slot on one of the legs instead of holes - http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1vZ25ecodZ25ecodZaqnsZ12kx/R-202033905/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=bracket&storeId=10051#.UF0c31GDmSo

I'll paint it one day, but for now it's just galvanized.

[Kermit]

Ya, that's kind of what I thought I would have to do. Thanks for the feedback LS1 disciple.

[08G8V8]

Jessika asked me this before ordering: "So i guess i can either get a mount for the right cylinder head, or the stud where the air box used to go. Which would you like?" I got the airbox stud bracket, which is a 90 degree angle.

[Kermit]

Thanks for jogging my memory 08G8V8, I too seem to remember talking to here about that. I'll see if she can still hook me up with the correct bracket.

[WickedMom]

Email me kermie... :) ill have one sent.


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[LS1_Disciple]

Oooh, oooh...can I get the correct bracket, too? Didn't know that was an option.

I'll send you an email Jessika.

[WickedMom]

Ya, please email me... I will make it happen. :)

[LS1_Disciple]

lol...they're the hardest ones to snag with the pick, too.

For reference, here's how much I drained out after 800 miles with the stock size PCV orifice (maybe 1-2 tablespoons?):
16630

Closing the loop on this one, here's how much I drained out after 800 miles with the drilled out 1/8" PCV orifice:
17014

I'd say that's basically the same amount, so drilling it out hasn't increased the oil flow through the PCV. If anything, I drove a little harder this 800 miles testing out the axles and line-lock :)

[todds87ss]

For those drilling this orifice larger, you can pack the bit with grease and the metal will mostly be caught in it.