Group Buy: RX Products Oil Catch Can & Breather

[WickedMom]

Stage 1 catch can
$140 shipped!

or

Stage 1 catch can & check valve breather
$185 shipped!

Over 5 orders have been received!

ANY COLOR or Polished included in cost

**Stage 2 and monster catch cans available at a discount as well**
**additional shipping charge if shipping outside of the continental US**

161941619316192

**Note: the brackets are no longer painted to match**

[MIEngineer]

Hmm, I have a Monster can I never installed yet, but its black....I wouldn't mind a blue one with check valve breather...

Pricing on Stage 2 and / or Monster?

What are the additional discounts? I can always post on the local FB page see if anyone is interested

[LS1_Disciple]

Why do you keep running group buys on stuff right after I buy it from you? ;)

Side note, though. My bracket did not look like that at all. It was the one that allows you to attach the can to the passenger side head. I didn't want to put it there, so I got something from Home Depot that is similar to the brackets you have shown to allow me to mount it on the driver's side.

[Zodiac]

Argh after I already got a catch can last week. I would have loved a colored one.

[fengstang]

I think I am down for one!

[WickedMom]

Hmm, I have a Monster can I never installed yet, but its black....I wouldn't mind a blue one with check valve breather...

Pricing on Stage 2 and / or Monster?

What are the additional discounts? I can always post on the local FB page see if anyone is interested
$260 for the Monster, $165 for stage 2.
(plus $40 for breather)

Price has been lowered $5 since 5 orders have been placed

Why do you keep running group buys on stuff right after I buy it from you? ;)

Side note, though. My bracket did not look like that at all. It was the one that allows you to attach the can to the passenger side head. I didn't want to put it there, so I got something from Home Depot that is similar to the brackets you have shown to allow me to mount it on the driver's side.
I will give you a great discount on whatever you get next to make up for it :)
As far as the bracket goes, I don't have control over that. I can make suggestions though. Did you take a picture of the bracket you used before mounting it by chance?

Argh after I already got a catch can last week. I would have loved a colored one.
:(

I think I am down for one!
Lime green?????!!! send me a picture of whatever green you want, I will see how close they can match it :)
Tell my baby I miss her. :'(

[cynic783]

OK, what does this thing do, and when do I need it. :D

[WickedMom]

LOL! you need one for BOTH! It is to prevent oil from entering the intake manifold.

I can get yours painted to match each car if you want. :)

[Kermit]

Are these recomended over Billet Prototypes catch cans if you have a blower and if so why? How or why are they better?

[WickedMom]

Here's a crap load of info from the RX owner regarding catch cans.

The main difference that I see is this one has a drain tube vs having to remove it to empty it :)


Since the vast majority of supercharged or turbo charged builds have less than adequate PCV systems, I thought I would offer up a thread for disscusions on the subject.

First, the history of crankcase ventalation & how it has progressed over time:


Understanding PCV Systems




To understand why we need a proper PCV system one must understand what takes place in the crankcase during the average day of driving. First off, all internal combustion engines have a certain amount of "blow-by" or leakage past the piston rings into the crankcase. This consists of several compounds such as unburnt fuel and a small amount of the combustion gasses that result from the explosion of the air/fuel mixture. The combustion gasses contain several nasty things including sulfuric acid, carbon particles, and other caustic compounds that will contaminate the oil over time. In the crankcase there is also a certain amount of water, or moisture from condensation. Even if never run, an engine will accumulate moisture from the heat of the day to the coolness of the evening depending on how humid the climate is where the motor lives. Every time the motor gets run up to operating temperature these compounds are "gassed off" and with the OEM system it all gets "flushed" or pulled into the intake manifold where it is mixed with the intake air charge and burned in the combustion process and further in the catalytic converter before it is exhausted into the air as mostly just water vapor at that time. Now of course, a small amount keeps leaking past the rings into the crankcase and completes the cycle all over again, but without a proper vacuum pulled ventilation system....these nasty compounds will break down the oil and reduce its protection properties and the corrosive aspects start to rust internal parts resulting in reduced engine life.

In the "old days" of our grandfathers, the engineers that designed engines new the importance of evacuating these nasty compounds and the design was extremely simple. First was nothing more than plain breathers to allow excess crankcase pressure to be released or vented. But the damage from not "flushing" all the gasses out resulted in very short engine life (of course the oils of that day were nothing like the protection today's synthetics provide) so the next change added a vent tube, or evacuation tube that ran from the top of the crankcase to low on the car where the air streaming past would create a suction, or vacuum that would pull the vapors out and vent them directly into the air with a breather (barely filtered with a wire mesh type media that was oiled to catch dust & dirt) allowing the "fresh" makeup air in to complete the flushing process. Now this resulted in greatly increased engine life, but as the motors got worn oil would start to drip out the tube and drip onto the roadways, then the rain would wash it into the ditches, where it would enter the ground water (you know the rest of the EPA story) and the gasses just vented to the air.

As the EPA and the powers that be mandated stricter emission laws the system was refined more and more ultimately evolving into what we have today. A completely sealed system that uses the vacuum provided by the intake manifold to draw these vapors out, and the filtered fresh makeup air is drawn from the main air intake system and filtered by the main air filter. This results in very clean emissions, but the unintended issues are the detonation or "knock" that occurs when oil is introduced into the combustion chamber that the knock sensors pick up (before we can hear it) and pull timing to protect the engine from damage, and thus reduced power. Another result is the carbon buildup on the valves & piston tops (any techs reading this can surely verify the amount) also resulting in decreased performance and less power made.

The purpose of a proper oil separating catch can is to route these gasses through a baffle system that provides the most contact possible with the outer surface resulting in the oil being trapped and removed from the other gasses that do continue on through the intake and are burnt and consumed. It does NOTHING else in ANY way to the engine oil itself....it can't.

Deleting your PCV system:


While this will insure NO oil the the intake tract via the PCV, it will greatly shorten the life of your engine if street driven. The worst example I have seen is to cap off all the fittings and run an open hose from each valve cover to near the ground. One would think “they are both releasing pressure, so what can it hurt”. The answer is plenty. Lets take the basic principle of the Venturi effect. Whip a piece of hose around in a circle so that air rushes past the end. This will result in suction from the end of the hose near the center of the radius. Now with a car traveling down the road at speed, both hose will have air traveling past the ends and one ultimately will have more air rushing past thus creating more suction, and the other will them become a vacuum tube sucking up dust, dirt, water, sand, etc. directly into the engine from the side with the least suction. Depending on the amount of dust & dirt on the roads you travel (just look under your hood to see all the sand & dust that accumulates on the engine exterior). So it may take years to destroy your engine this way, or it may take no time at all. To see this if you have been misguided into doing this just remove each valve cover, and looking up into the baffle in each you will see the accumulated dirt built up as it comes in contact with the oil.


Now, addressing the "Home Depot" oil separator, it will and does catch a small amount of the oil but the majority still gets past into the intake (we used these and then the other cans that popped up on the market through the years before designing the ultimate final product that is offered today) and the reasons are simple:

It is plastic and transfers heat very inefficiently so very little condensing takes place.

The size. Anything less than 1 qt capacity and there is not enough surface area to be as functional, and the volume needs to be enough to allow the flow to slow enough for the oil to drop out of suspension.

And the lack of an effective baffle system allow oil to be pulled directly through.

As for having steel wool or another type of filter media inside, this will work well at first to trap oil....but as soon as it gets saturated droplets are pulled off and into the intake.

Why don't the auto manufacturers incorporate something similar? Cost and the added maintenance was deemed something that would NOT be accepted by the general market. (even though it is as simple as draining the can at each oil change).

Bottom line is this: The OEM system does a great job of meeting emission standards and removing the harmful contaminants, but the unintended consequences are the oil that is drawn into the intake charge. For an engine to produce the maximum amount of energy per explosion (of the A/F in the combustion chamber) you want air & fuel only....any amount of oil in this mix will hamper the explosion resulting in less energy released, detonation, and carbon buildup. Trapping and removing this oil before it gets into the combustion chamber is the ONLY solution to maintaining the maximum efficiency and prevent excess carbon buildup.



Now how this applies to forced induction. (Procharger/Vortech/Paxton style & turbo's both single & twin). (This does not apply to top mount twin screw types, I will cover that in the next installment).

The vast majority of kits available come with a rudimentry PCV mod, that only evacuates the crankcase part of the time, and is barely effective at best. The issue is if the vacuum from the intake manifold is used to pull out the harmful combustion byproducts, when under boost the crankcase can become pressurized by the boost causing seal & oil leaks, as well as oil vapors/mist being introduced to the intake air charge resulting in detonation & lost power.

To counter this, most kits will include a line to run to the inlet side of the head unit pulling the gasses into the intake charge to be burnt during combustion & further in the cats. The problems are this is only marginally succesfull in properly "flushing" the crankcase of the harmful compounds that are introduced during combustion.

To delete the system alltogether and vent with breathers alone will relieve the excess pressure, but do nothing to remove the majority of the harmful combustion byproducts (unburnt fuel, carbon paticles, sulfuric acid, water, etc.) that shorten your engine life and result in slowley damaging the internal parts. Even worse than this is when the PCV system is deleted alltogether and open hoses are run from the valve covers to near the ground where dirt, dust, water, sand, etc. are sucked directly into the engine. BEWARE OF THIS MOD!!!! Very detrimental to an engine.

The solution? You need filtered fresh air to rplace the gasses pulled or flushed from the crankcase. This is provided in most case by the OEM or aftermarket air filter, or a added filtered breather (ideal is clean air entering one valve cover, and traveling through the entire crankcase with the harmfull compounds & pressure evacuated out the opposite one) provide for this. I prefeer to pull from the rear of the drivers side, and have the fresh air enter from the pass side. If in a non-emmissions state or off-road/race an optional filtered oil fill cap works nicely.

Then a proper oil seperating catchcan to trap the oil mist/vapors from reaching the intake air charge.

Here is a picture of a purpose built FI oil separating catchcan with labels to help understand:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RXproducts/Prochargerinstructions002.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RXproducts/Prochargerinstructions001.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RXproducts/Prochargerinstructions004.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RXproducts/Prochargerinstructions003.jpg

How is this configured? Either dual inline checkvalves that will allow the intake manifold vacuum to pull during non-boost running, and close when the manifold is pressurized under boost running. Then the inlet side of the head unit/turbo will provide suction when under boost with another inline checkvalve in the line running to the inlet that allows it to open when boost is forcing the intake manifold vacuum line valve closed.

This provides proper crankcase evacuation in both non-boost (idle & moderate driving) and during WOT boosted operation.

PM me with your email and a request for the entire file of application diagrams.




You will note from the picture showing the type of can with dual integrated checkvalves that the inline checkvalves can be avoided, and no need to "T" into the outlet line from the can to the FI head unit inlet side. It does it all with 3 simple connections, but any catch can can be used with inline checkvalves.





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[LS1_Disciple]

Don't forget it also has a check valve also. Not sure if anyone else's has that.

[WickedMom]

Ya. In the breather.


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[cynic783]

"Now how this applies to forced induction. (Procharger/Vortech/Paxton style & turbo's both single & twin). (This does not apply to top mount twin screw types, I will cover that in the next installment)."

Have next installment? If you have please post. Thx.

[WickedMom]

Sorry, thought I posted it all.


The Maggie has a pretty straight forward routing setup. On the driver side is the "Dirty side" where the maggies does have vacuum at most all times, and should not pressurize (unlike a turbo or front mount SC) so the main issue with the setup it comes with is controlling the amount of flow so oil is not sucked into the intake side. This is done with either a correct metered PCV valve (that also can prevent any back-flow or reversion) or an integrated check valve that also regulates the flow.

On the "clean side", is more of an issue. At normal operation this is where the crankcase draws the filtered fresh make-up air that allows for the harmful combustion by-products to be flushed out the dirty side. The issues we see are after heavy WOT operation there is some reversion, or back-flow into the intake air bridge through this connection and (just pull the line off of the air bridge and see oil drip out) a good deal of oil is ingested this way.

There are a few solutions. One, and the easiest may be a breather filter added to the pass side valve cover, but if doing this you MUST cap off the clean side tube so unmetered air is not drawn from the breather into the intake bypassing the MAF. (the small amount that does if that line is removed & capped is not an issue, but having both will result in a lean condition & CEL light tripped). Or adding an inline check valve that will allow flow into the crankcase, but not reversed.

Any time the extra cylinder pressure of a power adder is introduced, increased blow-by occurs and the excess crankcase pressure must be dealt with.

My solution is a proper oil separating can on the dirty side with check valves that also control the amount of flow, and either a breather on the pass side (clean side) or a second can inline to catch that oil.

The road race guys that run the smaller cans can attest that when running at WOT, and then rapid deceleration, and back again constantly, most smaller cans cannot prevent the oil they have trapped from being pulled through and out of the can (they may catch a good amount in the can during normal driving, but when running an auto cross or track event find very little in the can...and going further open the smaller cans before the start the event, note the oil level in the can, and then run the event and find most of it gone.), This is due to the rapid velocity of the flow through the cans when intake vacuum is at its highest.

So yes, it is critical that the flow through the can (or as the connection is laid out by Maggie or the other SC brands) be controlled,the cans in these "extreme driving conditions" have a large enough capacity to allow this flow to slow enough inside the can chambers to allow the oil droplets to fall out of suspension, and the outlet be far enough from this accumulated oil to prevent it being sucked right out again when at maximum vacuum during deceleration. The positive closing check valves also prevent the reversion, or back-flow. As long as you have a large enough can with the inlet & outlets far enough apart from each other a proper inline check valve can be added to help prevent this.




On The RX can, the center fitting is the inlet, and the outer fitting (s) are the outlet (s).

This may vary on different can brands.

[LS1_Disciple]

Ya. In the breather.


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There's also a check valve in the can (on stage 1 anyway). Stage 2 can has 2 check valves iirc.

[Blanky]

Ill take a stage 2 with breather in black

[WickedMom]

alright! You got it!

[WickedMom]

4 orders in!!

[MIEngineer]

You may want to post differences between stage 1, 2, and monster for people also.

[jzpiano]

You may want to post differences between stage 1, 2, and monster for people also.

^^^
This. I'm in the market for a catch can for my other g8.

Sent from my EVO 3D

[Kermit]

I'm thinking of getting one to be on the safe side with my Maggie and selling my Billet Prototypes can but like MIEngineer said. Can you explain the differences in Stage 1, 2, and monster.
Also, how is it hooked up. I don't want it on the passenger side of the engine and I only use two hoses right now, where would I hook up the third hose?

[WickedMom]

Stage 1 is for positive displacement and NA. It has two barbs.
Stage 2 is for turbo and centrifugal and has three barbs.
Monster is for super large displacement engines and hiiiiiigh boost levels.

I'd suggest stage 1 for you.


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[WickedMom]

16216

I know this is for Camaro, but it helps explain it a little better

[#28]

How much if I pick it up from you?

Damn you people are costing me a crap ton of money.

[MIEngineer]

You could make any can work for NA or boost as I was going to set up this monster for NA at some point...

But I want a blue one, just need to decide which.

[WickedMom]

How much if I pick it up from you?

Damn you people are costing me a crap ton of money.

Shipping is $15. So you would save that. :) but then gotta pay taxes, so it's the same practically!


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[WickedMom]

You could make any can work for NA or boost as I was going to set up this monster for NA at some point...

But I want a blue one, just need to decide which.

Stage 1 would be fine!


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[Kermit]

Stage 1 is for positive displacement and NA. It has two barbs.
Stage 2 is for turbo and centrifugal and has three barbs.
Monster is for super large displacement engines and hiiiiiigh boost levels.
I'd suggest stage 1 for you.

If your suggesting stage 1 then what's the difference between this and my BP? I don't mind having to open it up to empty the can. Is there really a difference?
I'll get one if I can really see an advantage/safer operation.

[WickedMom]

To be honest, I don't know why you would want to switch cans. But I asked RX for his official stance. I'll post it when I get a reply.


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[Kermit]

To be honest, I don't know why you would want to switch cans. But I asked RX for his official stance. I'll post it when I get a reply.


Any word yet from them?

[MIEngineer]

I may be in for a stage 2, since I can probably set it up for NA as far as I can tell [unless you know otherwise...but I am sure Tracy iirc can follow up] until I use it for my other car [modified turbo 4 engine]

Any word on different brackets mentioned previously?

[WickedMom]

Nope. I'll see what I can push for.


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[incon3037r]

Jessika, do you have any pics of the monster catch can?

[WickedMom]

I do not, I haven't ever actually seen one in person, but Daniel Linnett has one. Perhaps he can post a picture of it. He might of sent me a picture but I don't have it handy.

[WickedMom]

Bump! I'm on vacation now, making a list of orders to go in when I get home!


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[Blanky]

Stage 2 w/ breather recieved a day or two ago thanks... Now if i just had my G8!

[WickedMom]

Woohoo!! And you got something big and powerful too!!! Right?

(is that where the G is?)


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[Blanky]

I should have some cool vids and a smile by end of the week

[incon3037r]

Whats the price now? Has there been more than 5 orders yet?!!

[08G8V8]

Is this still going on? Thinking about possibly swapping out my Billet Prototype can.



Side note, though. My bracket did not look like that at all. It was the one that allows you to attach the can to the passenger side head. I didn't want to put it there, so I got something from Home Depot that is similar to the brackets you have shown to allow me to mount it on the driver's side.

Can you post a pic of the bracket that came with your can?

[WickedMom]

One more order will get us to the 5 mark, I lowered the price on the stage 1 in the first post. Not sure if I did the stage 2.

The gb goes till the 31st. Im on vacation now, so orders will go in as soon as I get home (or get bored enough while here)


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[hflores3]

I may be interested - I purchased a Billet Prototype unit. It's quite the small can.

OKAY - I'm in! (in black)

Stage 1 - works for Maggies - correct?

[matts88yj]

Jessika I'm interested in a Stage 1 setup (keeping mine NA) and my good friend may also be interested in one since his BP catch can order has taken over a month already.

Let me know if the $140 is the current going rate and I'll get that over to you. Also just curious if they could match the MSM paint at all? If not, let me hear your recommendations on color for it being under the hood. :)

Thank you and enjoy your vacation!

[08G8V8]

I'm in for a Stage 1 in Black. Let me know how to pay.

[hflores3]

Jessika I'm interested in a Stage 1 setup (keeping mine NA) and my good friend may also be interested in one since his BP catch can order has taken over a month already.

Let me know if the $140 is the current going rate and I'll get that over to you. Also just curious if they could match the MSM paint at all? If not, let me hear your recommendations on color for it being under the hood. :)

Thank you and enjoy your vacation!

I have a BP catch can (brand new - still in box) I can sell your friend! That funds my Stage 1 purchase here!

[WickedMom]

If you guys PM me your email address & color you want I will send a PayPal invoice. They will paint based on color code, so matching MSM (or anything else) is no problem.

They are averaging about a week time from order to ship times


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[LS1_Disciple]

I may be interested - I purchased a Billet Prototype unit. It's quite the small can.

OKAY - I'm in! (in black)

Stage 1 - works for Maggies - correct?

Stage 1 is what I've got on mine, Henry. Works like a charm.

[WickedMom]

Here is info from RX directly

[quote]The RX cans have the checkvalves integrated into it and the BP has no vlaves and no designated inlet or outlet. The BP can holds and collects oil right at the outlet so app 30-40% of the oil pulls right through the can making it one of the worst functioning of all the expensive cans. The Elite and AMW work far better. BP makes the Morso cans and the Diablosport cans.....beautiful quality machining, extremely poor design.

above is the RX can....3 times the size, over 7" from inlet to outlet. separate coalsecing and condensing and collection and outlet chambers....


BP can is second from the left....far to samll to allow the flow to slow enough to contain oil (like a dentist suction tube...pulls through) and behind the perforations just steel wool on both inlet and outlet.

Horrible design.

Far left is earlier design of RX can from years ago, then 2nd from right ebay can...just empty, then far rt Mike Norris/CCA/Catchcans.com Not bad but still allows oil pull through.[\quote]





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[WickedMom]

http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d9a0-bd5d-c0c4.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d9a0-bd68-a97d.jpg


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[screaminChick-n]

What is the funtion of the check valve breather since it is offered as an option.

MIEngineer, may have already asked about this but
Discounted pricing on Stage 2 ?
Can it be used on a NA engine (future FI) ?
Does stage 2 require a check valve breather also ?

[WickedMom]

The check valves are built into all the catch cans. :)

Stage two can be used on NA, but best utilized on centrifugal or turbo charged engines.

Stage 2 prices are on the first page... I'll repost when I get internet on my laptop.


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[Kermit]

LS1_Disciple
Do you also have the breather? I'm pretty sure I will get a Catch Can but wonder if the breather is really necessary? I thought I read somewhere about the breathers actually messing things up.

[hflores3]

Stage 1 is what I've got on mine, Henry. Works like a charm.

Thanks. ....with the breather?

[WickedMom]

Breathers without check valves will allow unmetered air into the engine. That is bad. These breathers have check valves which prevent that problem.

[WickedMom]

Here is the pricing for the others, $260 for the Monster, $165 for stage 2.
(plus $40 for breather) shipped

A breather is suggested HIGHLY with any forced induction. For NA it is not as important.

[08G8V8]

A breather is suggested HIGHLY with any forced induction. For NA it is not as important.

OK.....got the invoice from Brian, but am replying to have him send me a new invoice to add the breather.

[hflores3]

Here is the pricing for the others, $260 for the Monster, $165 for stage 2.
(plus $40 for breather) shipped. A breather is suggested HIGHLY with any forced induction. For NA it is not as important.

(Stage 1 catch can & check valve breather $185 shipped!)

--------------------------------------------------------------------
I need the Stage 1 & Breather -- correct Jessika?

[LS1_Disciple]

LS1_Disciple
Do you also have the breather? I'm pretty sure I will get a Catch Can but wonder if the breather is really necessary? I thought I read somewhere about the breathers actually messing things up.


Thanks. ....with the breather?

Yes, I got the breather as well. This breather is different than the typical autoparts store push-in breather because it allows air in, but the check valve prevents venting anything to the engine bay like a typical breather does. On a maggie, you basically plug up the PCV fresh air supply on your CAI, and the breather then functions as the fresh air supply for the PCV system. Here's a (long) thread about PCV and catch cans in general. I think the OP is the manufacturer of the RX catch cans.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102582

Jessika, if I'm wrong or messing up your thread, please stop me.

[incon3037r]

I definitely need to get one of these

[WickedMom]

Yes, I got the breather as well. This breather is different than the typical autoparts store push-in breather because it allows air in, but the check valve prevents venting anything to the engine bay like a typical breather does. On a maggie, you basically plug up the PCV fresh air supply on your CAI, and the breather then functions as the fresh air supply for the PCV system. Here's a (long) thread about PCV and catch cans in general. I think the OP is the manufacturer of the RX catch cans.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102582

Jessika, if I'm wrong or messing up your thread, please stop me.
No worries! I have all this posted on the first page anyway :) Maybe just link to that post?

[WickedMom]

Here is the pricing for the others, $260 for the Monster, $165 for stage 2.
(plus $40 for breather) shipped. A breather is suggested HIGHLY with any forced induction. For NA it is not as important.

(Stage 1 catch can & check valve breather $185 shipped!)

--------------------------------------------------------------------
I need the Stage 1 & Breather -- correct Jessika?
Yes. I sent you the invoice with that, for one in PBM.

[matts88yj]

Paid! Thank you! Can't wait to get it!

[WickedMom]

Thank you!!


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[screaminChick-n]

Anyone have a photo of this installed on a GXP or G8 ? What color would blend well with the engine bay in a white car ?

[WickedMom]

Do you have a roto fab or vararam? you can mount it on the air box stud by the positive battery cable. I can have it painted any color you like, but Matte Black would blend best, IMO

[WickedMom]

PS. I think PINK looks best in a white car... but that is just me.

[WickedMom]

http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d9a0-bd5d-c0c4.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d9a0-bd68-a97d.jpg
Far left is earlier design of RX can from years ago, then 2nd from right ebay can...just empty, then far rt Mike Norris/CCA/Catchcans.com Not bad but still allows oil pull through.

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Keeping these bumped up so everyone sees the difference!

[screaminChick-n]

My engine bay is all stock.

[WickedMom]

so Matte black would blend in best if you want an OEM look. Red would pop if you want a lil eye candy. Blue would look nice and subdued.
Stock engine bay = blank canvas!

[Blanky]

I got black and its got a slight shine to it but still doesnt look too flashy

[WickedMom]

Could you post a picture?

[Blanky]

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w458/BlankyD1SC/8cf13f30.jpg

[WickedMom]

OH! its not in yet?

[matts88yj]

OH! its not in yet?

That's what she said??

LMAO sorry couldn't resist!

Can't wait to get my catch can!

:)

[WickedMom]

BAHAHAHHA... damnit, you got me. That's not a phrase I say often ;)

[hflores3]

That's what she said??

LMAO sorry couldn't resist!

Can't wait to get my catch can!

:)

I "have to admit" -- THAT was hilarious!!!

[screaminChick-n]

want to see installed photos to see its final resting place. maybe i can go with WH and it will look good.

[LS1_Disciple]

want to see installed photos to see its final resting place. maybe i can go with WH and it will look good.

This isn't the best pic, but it's the only one I've got on me. It'll at least give you an idea.

16294

[screaminChick-n]

Thanks LS1_Disciple....i really appriciate it. but looks like i would have to loose the stock airbox....???

[WickedMom]

Not necessarily. You can mount the can in the original location which is at the right side cylinder head since you have the stick air box. I think there's a picture in the install guide. Send me your email and I'll send that to you tomorrow.


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[hflores3]

This isn't the best pic, but it's the only one I've got on me. It'll at least give you an idea.

16294

That looks nice and clean!

[WickedMom]

Yessir!


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[Bill Brollier]

Installed mine yesterday evening. I suspect a more tidy mount system is in its future, but for now all is well.

[matts88yj]

I'm still waiting on mine but I so can't wait to get it installed! Looks GRRRR8 Bill!

[hflores3]

I thought you gents might be interested in the amount of oil "inside" the Maggie "without" a catch can.

I took some pics yesterday that I thought you might find "VERY" interesting!!

164601646116462164631646416465

[Kermit]

Thanks Jessika, got mine yesterday. Looks good but won't be able to install for awhile. Working on my G-force axles and 3.27 gears right now.

[Buford]

My RX catch can is empty and intake full of oil. Note: RX did not supply instructions with the kit. Apparently, you are supposed to drill out the part of the valve covers where the middle hose goes to. Just an FYI for anyone installing this to do the drill mod

[hflores3]

My RX catch can is empty and intake full of oil. Note: RX did not supply instructions with the kit. Apparently, you are supposed to drill out the part of the valve covers where the middle hose goes to. Just an FYI for anyone installing this to do the drill mod

Yikes! Really? Have you done it?

[LS1_Disciple]

My RX catch can is empty and intake full of oil. Note: RX did not supply instructions with the kit. Apparently, you are supposed to drill out the part of the valve covers where the middle hose goes to. Just an FYI for anyone installing this to do the drill mod

Is this true for all cases, i.e. maggie, procharger, stage 1, stage 2?

[hflores3]

This might be a "substantive" piece of information we should have.

[WickedMom]

I never heard back from RX when I questioned about this. I will call tomorrow, err Tuesday.
I believe it only affects stage 2/procharged cars but I don't know for sure.

[Kermit]

Ya, this would be some good info for sure. Please be as specific as possible as to what stage needs to do this please.

[WickedMom]

I have another email into RX and will follow up with a phone call in the AM. I have a busy morning on the books tomorrow, but I will let you all know ASAP

[hflores3]

Thanks Jessika! Hit those books while you're at it! :-)

[WickedMom]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239961
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194811

Here is a little reading for you guys. I feel like an idiot for not already knowing this.

[LS1_Disciple]

First link is interesting. I've been noticing some oil seeping/weeping around various seals lately (timing cover, valve cover, oil pan), and I've been wondering if the PCV system is flowing enough to properly evac the crankcase. Drilling out the valve cover hole would certainly help that, so perhaps that's my next step.

I did not ever run across this in my reading beforehand, nor do I recall seeing it mentioned in RX's instructions. Don't feel too much like an idiot, Jessika. I'm sure most of us are right there with you ;)

[WickedMom]

Thank you :)

[Buford]

Jessika what is your email

[WickedMom]

Did you see my reply?

[Kermit]

So in quick summary, we need to take off the drivers valve cover and drill out the back barb with a 5/32 bit. Just make sure not to go past the baffle on the other side.
All this is done to basically allow the PCV system "breath" easier.

[WickedMom]

Yes. My understanding is that the small hole can get clogged causing restriction.




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[hflores3]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239961
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194811

Here is a little reading for you guys. I feel like an idiot for not already knowing this.

Not your fault here Jessika. I suspect the "catch can" remains a good design - but the "somewhat arbitrary" instructions and now these "fixes on the fly" lead me to wonder a bit. Mabye he needs loads of miles and feedback to "finalize" the system properly?

Nevertheless, I have the product in hand and wanting to be "sure" about the install of the "whole" system.

[hflores3]

I sent the guy over on the Camaro5 site a private note for a steer on this as well......I hope he writes back.

[hflores3]

From the RX guy.........
-------------------------

Sorry! I should be clearer.

Drill 7/64" for NA and as much as 1/8 for FI as long as your using the RX can with the flow controlling checkvalves.

Quote:


Originally Posted by hflores3
I've read and re-read your post on your RX catch can....and how the system can get clogged.

a) first and foremost - I did purchase one of your stage 1 (2 barb) catch can & breather for a Pontiac G8 Magnuson equipped car (I also own one of your VMax throttle bodies -- so my questions are from "a customer's perspective")
b) Your notes say "to drill the valve cover barb hole to 5/32nd to allow the motor to breathe easier.
c) then in the photo you suggest to drill to 1/8

Please help with some "specific clear" directions so that I may install this properly. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

hflores3@comcast.net



__________________
RX Performance Products
VMax CNC Porting
Turbo/Supercharging specialists
www.RevXtreme.com (http://www.revxtreme.com/) file:///I:\DOCUME~1\Henry\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\cl ip_image001.gif


Debbie and Henry Flores
Friendswood, Texas

[LS1_Disciple]

Thanks for snooping that out, Henry. Goodness there's lots of numbers, though. He told Jessika 5/32 (through that camaro5 link) and you 1/8. I imagine it doesn't much matter either way, but those are two different recommendations nonetheless.

I certainly don't want to drill this thing out and then start filling up the can every week. I'm also still kicking around how to drill it out and keep the shavings out of the baffle area of the valve cover.

[hflores3]

Thanks for snooping that out, Henry. Goodness there's lots of numbers, though. He told Jessika 5/32 (through that camaro5 link) and you 1/8. I imagine it doesn't much matter either way, but those are two different recommendations nonetheless.

I certainly don't want to drill this thing out and then start filling up the can every week. I'm also still kicking around how to drill it out and keep the shavings out of the baffle area of the valve cover.

Great catch! I completely overlooked the shavings! Jeez!

[WickedMom]

I did not drill out the valve cover on my G8, and I collected a nice amount of oil...

[fengstang]

Should be getting mine this week. I can't wait. Free bump.

[hflores3]

The RX guy said "he could not register to this site for some reason" -- maybe we can help him get registered and gain direct answers to the guy.

[hflores3]

Would love to.
I get through the entire registration process but it does not display the "pass thru" test (I think the weird letters/numbers for antispam)
Register me as : SC2150 and password xxxxxx and this as my email and I can complete the rest. Good idea.

:thumbsup:
-----Original Message-----
From: Henry H. Flores <hflores3@comcast.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 9, 2012 8:49 am
Subject: RE: RX can instructions
Good morning Tracy. Hey, would you be able to help with “questions and answers” if I can get you registered to the GRRRR8 forum?
Your can’s are have a healthy interest….so having access to you for "direct" Q&A's might benefit you.
Interested?

[SC2150]

Hey all, thanks Fflores for steering me in here.

A NA car may not need to do the drill mod, but it does not hurt. The RX systems have integrated flow controlling checkvalves so there is no worry about to much flow, but any other with just fittings there would be.

With the added blowby from FI the tiny fixed orfice holes are not large enough to allow the crankcase to be evacuated at the rate it needs to and excess pressure can build up. Drilling is a simple way to fix this.

With the OEM configuration any excess pressure will back flow through the fresh air tube to the main airbridge....and it takes oil mist back with it. Using an open breather will allow more air in not metered by the MAF and then your fuel trims will go nuts.

The PCM looks at data from the MAF, the MAP, and the upstream O2's to determine how much fuel to add or take away. If this data is not withing the parameters the PCM expects to see it trys adding and subtracting fuel and you see the fuel trims going nuts thus the flow controlling breather is calibrated to only allow in the amount of fresh air the PCM can adapt to.

Now on to the crankcase evac.

If evacuating from the valley cover, the entire driverside bank remains stagnant and the combustion byproducts are not evacuated or "flushed". Evacuating from the rear of the drivers side valve cover the filtered fresh air enters the passenger side valve cover, either through the OEM line that attaches to the inner front of the passenger side cover, or the breather kit if used, past the valvetrain on the passenger bank, down the pushrod valley, through the center of the crankcase pulling and flushing the harmfull combustion byproducts through with it up the drivers side push rod valley and past the valvetrain out the rear of the drivers side valve cover.

On a top mount PD blower, there is no intake manifold pressurized like a turbo or centri blower so the evac system is slightly easier. Simply (and do the drill mod on ALL FI applications or oil leaks may occur) install the oil separating catchcan between the vacuum barb on the blower snout and the valve cover vent, but a turbo or centri application you will want to evac at both boost and non boost operation.

The intake manifold provides the evac at idle and non boost, but as soon as the primary valve senses positive pressure it closes, and the secondary valve opens using the inlet side of the head unit for suction/evacuation and the reverse after out of boost so no matter what the operation your engine is under it is always being evacuated.


Have to get back to work so ask any questions in detail and I'll be back to answer them.

:thumbsup:

[-Ray-]

Welcome to the forum Tracy. I think that's your name from scanning this thread. Please check out the intro forum so more folks can get to know you.

Ray

[WickedMom]

Hi Tracy! Glad you made it over here.




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[LS1_Disciple]

...
On a top mount PD blower, there is no intake manifold pressurized like a turbo or centri blower so the evac system is slightly easier. Simply (and do the drill mod on ALL FI applications or oil leaks may occur) install the oil separating catchcan between the vacuum barb on the blower snout and the valve cover vent, but a turbo or centri application you will want to evac at both boost and non boost operation.
...

I think this is what I'm seeing (have not done drill mod yet). This is good info, Tracy. Now once again just to clarify, what size hole does a top mount blower need to drill? I've seen both 1/8 and 5/32, but I doubt that it matters much either way.

[Bill Brollier]

Hey Tracy, welcome. It was most informative chatting with you the other day, now having you on the forum is GRRRR8.

[hflores3]

Hey all, thanks Fflores for steering me in here.

On a top mount PD blower, there is no intake manifold pressurized like a turbo or centri blower so the evac system is slightly easier. Simply (and do the drill mod on ALL FI applications or oil leaks may occur) install the oil separating catchcan between the vacuum barb on the blower snout and the valve cover vent, but a turbo or centri application you will want to evac at both boost and non boost operation.

:thumbsup:

Glad you could join us Tracy!!

a) So if we we have a Maggie and have one of your breathers as well - do we need to "block off" any barbs at all?

b) With a Maggie and one of your catch cans - we only need to install your catchcan between the vacuum barb on the blower snout and the valve cover vent / and drill out the valve cover?

Thanks.

[hflores3]

I think this is what I'm seeing (have not done drill mod yet). This is good info, Tracy. Now once again just to clarify, what size hole does a top mount blower need to drill? I've seen both 1/8 and 5/32, but I doubt that it matters much either way.

How are you going to deal with the shavings? Drill then take it to a parts washer with solvent to rinse and dry?

[LS1_Disciple]

How are you going to deal with the shavings? Drill then take it to a parts washer with solvent to rinse and dry?

I'm hoping it's not that complicated, but won't know for sure until I get the cover off and can get a good look at the baffling. Hopefully, blowing it out with the air compressor will be sufficient. I have no idea where the closest parts washer is around me.

[WickedMom]

I am ending this group buy :)

Thank you for the orders guys!

Can a mod lock this thread? We can start another for the drill mod

[LS1_Disciple]

Here's an appropriate thread to re-direct to - http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=33202