Installed new cluster face

[VegasNate]

http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/NateTejeda/da42e343.jpg

I was able to swap the new one without completely removing the cluster or unplugging it as to prevent throwing a code. Its pretty much a one off face so not really for sale. For the guys doing the group buy I'm happy to answer any questions on installing these. It's easier than I thought it would be......(thanks for the info too Zeppy!)

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[LDM]

Cool. :thumbsup:

[travis gore]

Very nice

[auzgts]

Looks good mate.

[matts88yj]

Very nice Nate! It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be either!

[GXPaycheck]

Excellent!

[LSX G8]

Looks great!

[zepcom]

That looks amazing, but check your tire, man, maybe someone stole it?

[VegasNate]

Yeah all of them.....


Sent from somewhere

[WhiteDeathLSX]

Nate has all the cool stuff! :) that looks ridiculously good!

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[Matt82]

Thats a great little addition for all the guys adding Holden pieces.

[Seattle09GT]

DUDE! Nate is first - WOOT!

So tell us about the install.

[zepcom]

DUDE! Nate is first - WOOT!



Actually the above statement is incorrect.

Back in March 2012, I helped Matt install a new cluster face on his car.

It really wasn't all that hard, but then and again, we had a Tech2 at our disposal to "Step" the needles to be exactly where they needed to be for full OEM accuracy.

It can be done without the Tech2, but you have to be very careful to not twist the pins that the needles affix to, and you need to make sure that you align them exactly where they need to be, obviously.

A metal kitchen fork comes in handy for evenly and carefully removing each of the needles.

It also helps to have an absolutely full tank of fuel... the needle (pre-removal) should be exactly vertical on the gauge, this will make reinstallation and alignment later much easier.


Through engineering mode, there's a mode that says "SELF TEST" (wear earplugs when conducting this test!)
Before you remove the cluster, run self test and take a picture.

Also take note of how far away each needle is from the backplane, and how far each needle is from the inner bezel "circles" on the speedo and tach.

Now for the step by step...

To get to the IPC cluster face, it is NOT NECESSARY to physically/electrically unplug the cluster from the car.
First, locate the black plastic trim bezel under the sun-visor arc of the IPC area, held in by 3 angled philips head screws. Might want to use a stubby screwdriver for this, as the steering column might provide a clearance issue for a standard sized screwdriver.

Best to tilt the steering wheel down all the way to do this.

You don't NEED to unplug and remove the IPC from the car. If you do, it's best to do so after unhooking the battery to ensure that you don't short anything out or disturb the BCM bus too much. NOTE: If you physically disconnect the wiring from the back of the cluster as part of this process, a BCM code is set saying that the cluster has been removed. Of course these codes can be cleared with a tech 2 or a dealership visit (NOT possible with simply the $50 handheld "CEL code scanner" type devices) if this bothers you.


If you are able to work within the confines of the steering wheel area, it's not necessary to completely remove the cluster from the car, just extra care is needed to ensure that you don't break anything (needles) when trying to get hands and tools (fork) in there to complete each task.

In any event, if you do decide to leave the cluster installed in the car, ensure that the drivers door is open and that the key is OUT of the ignition, to ensure that the power to the IPC is cut (and not under RAPP control either)

Anyways ... back to the how-to:

Then the clear plastic shield can come off with a few screws, and this *should* allow you to do the needles without having to disconnect the cluster from the car (and thus not tripping that "cluster removed BCM code"). Be very gentile with the needles, use the fork to slowly, carefully, and EVENLY pull the needle off of the base one by one. Now the cluster rings surround can be removed (this is the plastic "rings" around the speedo and tach, just a plastic piece) ... and followed by the sticky stock cluster face that is just stuck on there from the factory.

Now you can carefully align the replacement cluster face, a quality one will have the same "pegs" and alignment marks to align and install the replacement cluster face just like the stock piece came off. Now install the cluster rings surround, followed by the moment of truth, the needles.

If you are daring enough to power up the cluster without needles installed, go back into engineering mode and re-run self test (Reference ear plugs, it's loud and headache inducing!) and if necessary, reference the picture you took earlier. One by one, put on each of the 4 needles to the exact same positions as the self-test-picture-from-before-you-started shows, and you should be good.

Be careful NOT to press the needles on TOO FAR. Not only will this prevent them from sweeping properly, but it may cause contact with the trim ring that surrounds the speedo and tach that have the lit up "white marks" along the arc. You want the needle close to these, but not touching EVER.

PROTIP: Do not re-install the clear plastic cover over the IPC until you've verified your needle accuracy.

Those who are very interested in accuracy.... ensure the following:


Run "big speedo DIC mode", or engineering-mode, or use dashboss or similar datalogging device to get a digital readout of SPEED and ensure that the newly placed needle is accurate. Even using a handheld GPS and datalogging actual speed at various speeds will tell you if your speedo needle was installed accurately or not. IF NOT, shut down car and carefully use fork again, and repeat the process.
Same as above for TACH, go into engineering mode and select "RPM" to see the digital readout on the DIC and compare it to your tach needle recently replaced. Verify at 1k, 2k, 3k, etc. If good, You're Awesome. Otherwise, power down car, carefully use the fork to remove the needle without twisting it, and try again.
Same for temp
Same for Gas (if you filled up to a full tank, simply make sure that needle is once again vertical with power applied to the car, indicating a full tank.


Each of those bulletpoints above can be simplified if you have direct access to a GM Tech2. That allows the user to, through menus, step each of the needles to their "zero point" and "max value" to ensure that they're aligned properly. Additionally, the Tech2 can command any value of any guage, for utmost precision.

Again, this can easily be done without the Tech2, negligable inaccuracy if a combination of the above tips and tricks are followed above (SELF TEST mode at 50% (vertical) needles, or Engineering mode digital value comparison of tach, speedo, etc, or GPS alignment to speed, etc) then you can have a custom cluster face with minimal effort.


Once all is well and you're satisfied your needles are correct, now you can re-install the plastic face onto the cluster (be careful of smudges and fingerprints, use a microfiber towel if needed), followed by installing the cluster back into the dash itself. I recommend a magnetic philips screwdriver in this case, it's a bitch to try and retrieve a dropped screw when you're "so close" to bringing it to the screw hole. Finally, re-install the plastic bezel with the screws along the top at the proper angle. Shorty/stubby screwdriver is needed here due to steering column clearance issues.


:thumbsup: That should get it done. :thumbsup:

Matt and I took a bunch of pictures back when we did this project, but we never did a writeup for whatever reason. My writeup skilz aren't all that great, but hopefully the above makes sense and you can accomplish this. I also helped Nate with some of the above so that he could complete his cluster face swap with minimal effort.

Sorry to tag onto Nate's thread, but I didn't want to put this in Matt's group buy thread either, so I figure the mods can do what they want to to make this be a resource to those who want to tackle this cluster face swap project. :popo: It's easy, straight forward, and something that accuracy and carefulness can pay off big dividends. Matt's first cluster turned out fine, and his next one will be even better. And Nate's cluster face swap is awesome too.

Hope this how-to helps. I hope this resource proves useful to others (including those participating in the group buy) who want to do this themselves.

--zepcom

[El Dorian]

Looks real good Nate!

[GXPaycheck]

What, no pics? :poke:

[deputycrawford]

I changed mine over and should get some pics soon. Looks good Nate.

Jerry

[Savage-wp]

Looks good.