M6 Transmission Removal?

[tbully]

Does anyone have information (instructions, gotchas, etc) on removing the 6-Speed Manual from a GXP? I searched both boards (even checked out camaro5 briefly) and came up with nothing.

I have all of the shop service manuals and I'm sure they contain details instructions on how GM would like you to do it. However, I'd be willing to bet that the guys/gals that have done it a few times have a better way of getting the job done.

I'm considering doing my own clutch install now that I have the 2300 installed. My guess is that my clutch's days are numbered.....

Thanks!

[Greg@PacePerformance]

What do you want to know :)
I pulled mine over the weeked in my driveway.

Was it as easy as I was thinking... No. Was it a PITA... YES. Can you do it with a friend and a free weekend.... YES
Make sure you have atleast 4 jackstands and two floor jacks.

You will also need 4-6 long bolts to lower the engine cradle so you can remove the transmission.

[Devilish34]

No instructions but new pilot bearing, new slave and get a remote bleeder when you do it

[MIEngineer]

I didn't have the remote bleeder done when mine was apart.

Looks like every other RWD i've pulled prior.

[tbully]

Certainly plan on new pilot and remote bleeder as part of the job. I haven't look closely but I assume you can pull the shift linkage from under the vehicle without pulling apart interior (*shuddering*). I had the interior apart when I put in my gauges and "smoker" packages. What a pain! :-)

Is there a cooler on the M6? I didn't see one during the maggie install but wondering if they're using a core or two in the radiator.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

You will need to pop the top of the console off so you can remove the bolts that hold the shifter to the body of the car.

Yes there is a trans cooler built into the radiator just like the automatic cars and one of the quick connect clips took us about 2 hours to get out, there wasn't any tool throwing or yelliing as my young daughters were outside playing lol

The GXP slave is pretty expensive, but I think I have found a sutable replacement.
I also got an email back from Tick saying they don't make a remote bleeder for the GXP slave but I am working on that also and should have an answer very soon.

You will need 2 14mm x 2pitch x 120mm bolts (longer would have been better) and 2 16mm x 2pitch x 120mm bolts.
If you don't lower the engine the trans bellhousing will hit the trans tunnel before the input shaft is clear from the clutch fingers

[tbully]

You will need to pop the top of the console off so you can remove the bolts that hold the shifter to the body of the car.

Yes there is a trans cooler built into the radiator just like the automatic cars and one of the quick connect clips took us about 2 hours to get out, there wasn't any tool throwing or yelliing as my young daughters were outside playing lol

The GXP slave is pretty expensive, but I think I have found a sutable replacement.
I also got an email back from Tick saying they don't make a remote bleeder for the GXP slave but I am working on that also and should have an answer very soon.

You will need 2 14mm x 2pitch x 120mm bolts (longer would have been better) and 2 16mm x 2pitch x 120mm bolts.
If you don't lower the engine the trans bellhousing will hit the trans tunnel before the input shaft is clear from the clutch fingers


Good info as always Greg. I just had a face-palm moment on the dropping / lowering of the rear of the engine. I'm wondering if the blower will be in the way of doing that. I'm guessing it's going to be close. The cogs are only about 1-inch from the firewall as it is. This is turning in to a bigger project than I thought.

What are the bolts for?

What happens when you pull the trans cooler lines? (besides fluid all over the place) Is the refill process involved?

I thought the bleeder for the stock slave goes straight out the side and assumed any standard (straight) bleeder would work. I'm considering going with the McLeod Twin RXT. I assume that it has it's own TB/Slave however I haven't checked in to that.

Full disclosure: I'm hoping my stock clutch holds for a few months but I always like to plan just in case.


Edit: Just read your previous. Bolts are for the cradle. Also forgot that you are supercharged so there must be room. :-)

[Greg@PacePerformance]

My 2300 had room so yours should be fine too ;) Just read your EDIT :D

The bolts are just longer than the stock ones. GM says to lower the cradle 65mm about 2.5" but I didn't need to go that far. The longer bolts are just to make lowering the crade easier and safer. You could run the stock bolts out but I didn't want to run out of threads and have the cradle/engine end up on the ground.

I think I lost more fluid from the clutch res than I did from the trans cooler lines. The pump is built into the trans so all you have to do is flush the cooler lines and fill the trans when it is reinstalled.

Yes the stock TOB bleeder does go straight out the side, but the remote bleeders replace that part and thread directly into the bearing so you need the correct fitting there.

[MIEngineer]

Tbully - if you need to borrow a few Non Harbor Freight 6 ton stands that go up fairly high and a 3 ton jack with great height let me know. I used to pop the manual transmission out of my old modified Volvo far more than I liked for replacement and these worked great. Could sit up under the car in the tunnel and work ;)

I can lend a hand to a certain degree depending on when you plan to do it an so on but you are more than welcome to the jack/stands for a while.

I have the ZR1 twin disc in mine, but I did not do the install [as warranty covered labor on my issue]

[tbully]

Ha! I love the bold print. I've been known to be guilty of using HF stuff from time to time but try to stay away from it for the life protection stuff. :-) I may take you up on your offer on a second set of hands, especially because it sounds like you've done this before.

It's on the dyno right now. I fully expect them to call me and say 1) Cooked clutch or 2) Need more fuel. Or both! :-)

More to come.....

[MIEngineer]

I have to if I don't care about the outcome of the tool in question.

Believe it or not, I actually found a set of rhino style ramps that come apart for easy transport....made in the USA there (but not there brand).

Ive messed with a few engine/transmission events. Not many lately though, but I hate working on automatics ;) I avoid those if possible.

[Crazy Paul]

Yes the stock TOB bleeder does go straight out the side, but the remote bleeders replace that part and thread directly into the bearing so you need the correct fitting there.

1) Order in a new GXP slave.
2) Measure thread and make a drawing of what's needed in total.
3) Make up a GXP specific remote bleeder kit.
4) Return the new GXP slave.
5) Produce a few GXP kits
6) Profit ???

:brock:

[Greg@PacePerformance]

Working on it Paul lol
I don't need to order in the slave as I had mine sitting on the desk. I already have parts on order for it.

I had planned to use a C6 slave but the pressure fitting isn't in the same spot as the GXP slave and the GXP line will not fit the bellhousing on the C6 slave. I have been trying to locate the quick connect fitting that Tick uses in their 2010 Camaro line kit but have had no luck. I dont really want to spend 99.00 for two fittings since the rest of the line really won't fit.

I was trying to get all the parts by this weekend but I don't think it is going to happen. Why didn't Holden use more standard parts from GM parts bin??? lol
The GXP slave is over 300 and the C6 slave is about $150.00. That is a huge difference.

[Crazy Paul]

Why didn't Holden use more standard parts from GM parts bin??? lol
The GXP slave is over 300 and the C6 slave is about $150.00. That is a huge difference.

The 04-06 GTO slaves were identical to the usual Holden slaves of that era and were an AP Racing (UK) product.
They had AP D951004 cast into them.
Check and see if there are any similar non-GM markings on the GXP slave you have there.
(92227219 is the same as normal Holden VE V8.......there's nothing Pontiac GXP specific about that part or the fittings hanging off it.)

[MIEngineer]

Katech sells a kit already. Can be used on GXP but its at a funky angle when installed.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

The C6 remote bleeders will work on the GXP slave but I'm not sure how the 45* fitting will work out with our bellhousing.

Paul, the GXP and C6 slaves are almost identical. Both have GM and FTE cast into them.
GXP slave
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=160596434280

C6 Slave
http://paceperformance.com/files/grrrr8.net/c6slave.jpg

[tbully]

It looks like this project is going to become a reality sooner rather than later. I did a few hard launches last night and the pedal didn't return very quickly afterwards. I did a fluid change today but it didn't help much.

I need to try to find a remote bleeder ASAP. Also, does anyone know where to get braided lines as well? I may as well do it right the first time if I can.

[MIEngineer]

Were you on Woodward tonight.....

There was a MGM GXP with a few people in it.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

It looks like this project is going to become a reality sooner rather than later. I did a few hard launches last night and the pedal didn't return very quickly afterwards. I did a fluid change today but it didn't help much.

I need to try to find a remote bleeder ASAP. Also, does anyone know where to get braided lines as well? I may as well do it right the first time if I can.

Buy the 2010 Camaro remote bleeder from Tick Performance. It works perfect. They wouldn't sell the fittings I needed to install the C6 slave wo cutting the trans case but bo big deal. a little trimming of the case and it fits great.

[tbully]

Hey Greg - Appreciate the advice. I'll get that ordered. I haven't decided if I'm going to have the work done for me or take up MIEngineer's offer to help. It is something I'd like to accomplish myself, if possible.

MIEngineer - Wasn't me. I didn't know there was another MGM GXP in the area (darn it!). :-)

[Eidolon]

Question regarding the transmission, would it be possible to unbolt the engine from the mounts, lift it just slightly, then tilt it back to allow the transmission to come free? I'd be worried about toying with the subframe, considering how much trouble GXPaycheck had with getting his front end back into alignment after the dealership replaced his oil pan seal.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

That may work but you would have to tilt the engine pretty far and I'm not sure if there would be enough firewall clearence if you did it this way with the supercharger installled. Plus all the other parts that would need to be removed to do it this way. (if any)

[Posidon42]

Greg should I be concerned about any of this with my current project? I hadn't planned on messing with the subframe to put the manual in as I didn't need to mess with it when I pulled the auto last time.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

To get the auto trans out you just have to unbolt the toque coverter from the flexplate and drop it out. With the manual trans you have to pull the trans input shaft out of the clutch so you have to move it back much further.
I would say yes you will have to mess with the cradle, but maybe give it a try first. and you will see if it will go or not.

[Eidolon]

Hmm. Drat. So whenever my clutch finally gives up the ghost, I'll have to make sure to change out everything I need to all at once. :)

[tbully]

So, if I didn't mention it before, I have the "sticking pedal syndrome". I am in the process of getting a clutch ordered and unsure if I need to replace the slave / TB or not.

Can someone give advice? Any luck on using something other than the $300 model?

[GXPaycheck]

So, if I didn't mention it before, I have the "sticking pedal syndrome". I am in the process of getting a clutch ordered and unsure if I need to replace the slave / TB or not.

Can someone give advice? Any luck on using something other than the $300 model?

Have you tried flushing/bleeding your clutch fluid? Sometimes that can be the issue.

[tbully]

Well, I did do the flush routine. I did not, however, bleed the system from below. Maybe I should look in to that as a stop-gap.

[tbully]

Going to do the flush this evening to see if it'll get me by. However, the parts have been ordered. I'm playing with possibly doing this myself now that Greg, Dan, and others have offered advice and encouragement.

I still have a few questions and was wondering if anyone has some ideas:

1) Finding the bolts that Greg was referring to drop the cradle a few inches.
2) Clutch and Slave/TB "setup" (if any) such as spacers / shims, etc.
3) Factory torque specs on the flywheel bolt(s) as well as the pressure plates, bell housing, etc
4) Whether or not to use loctite on said bolts (red vs blue) - lots of heat - does it even matter?

[GXPaycheck]

Going to do the flush this evening to see if it'll get me by. However, the parts have been ordered. I'm playing with possibly doing this myself now that Greg, Dan, and others have offered advice and encouragement.

I still have a few questions and was wondering if anyone has some ideas:

1) Finding the bolts that Greg was referring to drop the cradle a few inches.
2) Clutch and Slave/TB "setup" (if any) such as spacers / shims, etc.
3) Factory torque specs on the flywheel bolt(s) as well as the pressure plates, bell housing, etc
4) Whether or not to use loctite on said bolts (red vs blue) - lots of heat - does it even matter?

Hopefully that will work and save you some $$.

[tbully]

I have Tick's remote bleeder for the 2010+ Camaro on order. Hopefully it fits.

@Greg - How is the C6 Slave working for you? I'm going with the GXP stock unit (ouch on the price) because I wasn't sure if it was good or not. I wish I knew if the Tick braided Slave->Master lines would fit or not. I'd like to do that upgrade while the trans is out.

[screaminChick-n]

I wish I knew if the Tick braided Slave->Master lines would fit or not. I'd like to do that upgrade while the trans is out.

Bumping and old thread.......anyone know if this one or the Tick braided lines from the C6 will work ?

What kind of fitting are on the master cylinder and slave cylinder?

Thanks

[BuildItYourSelf]

Bumping and old thread.......anyone know if this one or the Tick braided lines from the C6 will work ?

What kind of fitting are on the master cylinder and slave cylinder?

Thanks

The master has one of them quick snap in deals. And then runs to another snap in deal. And then a hard line to the slave. If your looking to run a new line all the way there's a adaptor from "snap" to a an or jic. "Flang fitting". I'm not sure the name of the snap fitting. Look up gm quick disconnect clutch fitting adaptor or something along them lines.

As far as a remote bleader they should all be the same. I think its 1/8" npt or you can use a npt-jic and just run a braided line.
I got mine free from monster when I got my clutch. And man does it help. When I bleed the clutch i stuck the end of the speed bleed in the reservoir and pump it to recirculate. Took about 5 mins.

Also a tip to remove the trans. You don't need to drop the cradle. What I did was remove the trans but left the bell housing. The removed the bell bousing after.
When you reinstall the trans put the bolts on the bell housing in about half way so its loose and once everything is lined up again. You start working all the bolts in a star pattern jumping from the front and back of the bell housing. Here's a pic
20751

[Eidolon]

Also a tip to remove the trans. You don't need to drop the cradle. What I did was remove the trans but left the bell housing. The removed the bell bousing after.
When you reinstall the trans put the bolts on the bell housing in about half way so its loose and once everything is lined up again. You start working all the bolts in a star pattern jumping from the front and back of the bell housing. Here's a pic

... If not for the awkwardness of it, I'd hug you. Unless there's some reason I'm missing to do otherwise, this is the route I'll go when I do my clutch.

How do you like the Monster Twin Disc, by the way? I've been eyeing their stage one twin since my stock clutch and slave cylinder seem to be on their way out.

[BuildItYourSelf]

... If not for the awkwardness of it, I'd hug you. Unless there's some reason I'm missing to do otherwise, this is the route I'll go when I do my clutch.

How do you like the Monster Twin Disc, by the way? I've been eyeing their stage one twin since my stock clutch and slave cylinder seem to be on their way out.

I can't compare it to stock because I never drove one. And my car was an auto before obviously.
Its a very very nicely build clutch. Its also a drivers clutch. You have to be good at driving a manual to like it on the street. You have to burp it and stuff sometimes. Its either in or out and the discs are solid so it hops and chatters a bit. But mines not really even broken in yet I would think a twin disk would take along time to brake in.
The reason I chose it was it should be the last clutch I'll ever buy for the car. And its only a few hundred to rebuild it.

[Eidolon]

I can't compare it to stock because I never drove one. And my car was an auto before obviously.
Its a very very nicely build clutch. Its also a drivers clutch. You have to be good at driving a manual to like it on the street. You have to burp it and stuff sometimes. Its either in or out and the discs are solid so it hops and chatters a bit. But mines not really even broken in yet I would think a twin disk would take along time to brake in.
The reason I chose it was it should be the last clutch I'll ever buy for the car. And its only a few hundred to rebuild it.
Yeah, the rebuild-ability is what's tempting. Some people seem to swear by Monster, while others claim they're the devil. Seems to take all sorts.
Can you explain what you mean by "burp", by the way? Also, what stage did you go with and what flywheel weight, too?

[BuildItYourSelf]

I got the stage 1 28lb wheel
By burp I mean a quick bump out to get moving then just let the clutch out instead of slipping the clutch.
Like starting out on a hill one would normally slip the clutch and then start going. That's really hard to do with this one.

[BuildItYourSelf]

I also have a pretty lopey cam tho so keep that in mind.

[Eidolon]

I got the stage 1 28lb wheel
By burp I mean a quick bump out to get moving then just let the clutch out instead of slipping the clutch.
Like starting out on a hill one would normally slip the clutch and then start going. That's really hard to do with this one.
That's what I thought you meant, and that sounds like the behavior of the new clutch I just put in my old beater Subaru. It's still breaking in, but I have to either clutch out real quick from a stop or else run the RPMs up a bit to allow the clutch to slip without skittering/juddering. Not sure how long it takes a new clutch to actually break in.

[screaminChick-n]

The master has one of them quick snap in deals. And then runs to another snap in deal. And then a hard line to the slave. If your looking to run a new line all the way there's a adaptor from "snap" to a an or jic. "Flang fitting". I'm not sure the name of the snap fitting. Look up gm quick disconnect clutch fitting adaptor or something along them lines.


You mean one of these russell male QD to -4AN fitting to the slave cylinder - like below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111147459015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_676wt_1133

, then a short -4AN female to -4AN female braided lines , then back to a male QD to -4AN fitting and then will I be able to
use the tick performance camaro braided clutch line
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-stainless-braided-clutch-line-for-2010-2014-camaro-ss/

I plan on using the camaro MC. What do you guys think ?

[Posidon42]

See If Greg can chime in but I had problems trying to use any other slave cylinders due to the clocking of the fittings. As for the master cylinder, I used the camaro part too. I think it is a better, stronger piece and I bought one of the higher flow versions from the camaro5 forum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[BuildItYourSelf]

You mean one of these russell male QD to -4AN fitting to the slave cylinder - like below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111147459015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_676wt_1133

, then a short -4AN female to -4AN female braided lines , then back to a male QD to -4AN fitting and then will I be able to
use the tick performance camaro braided clutch line
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-stainless-braided-clutch-line-for-2010-2014-camaro-ss/

I plan on using the camaro MC. What do you guys think ?

If you buy the trick flow unit you don't need anything else. It comes with the qd fittings.
Also the camaro slave will work fine. I used the entire clutch peddel assembly BC it was cheaper then the gxp and the GDP didn't have the mount.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

Camaro Slave? I think you mean master correct?

The Tick Camaro SS line will not work on the GXP. The master cylinder fitting is correct but they will not sell it separate to build your own line.

[BuildItYourSelf]

[QUOTE=Greg@PacePerformance;552508]Camaro Slave? I think you mean master correct?

Yes I ment the master.