View Full Version : Possible TR6060 conversion coming
Posidon42
02-05-2013, 09:41 PM
Success! I modified the ZR1 slave tonight to clear the bump in the cover plate.
17824
Once I did that I took a torch to the pressure line and modified the ZR1 line to fit.
17825
Stock GXP slave for reference.
17826
After installing the modded slave the measurements are just about perfect. I measured from the bottom of the throw out bearing travel to the front of the input shaft where it would stop on the thrust bearing. It is about 1/8 of an inch longer than measuring from the thrust bearing surface to the tip of the pressure plate fingers.
Looks like I might get to use this katech unit afterall.
BuildItYourSelf
02-05-2013, 10:25 PM
hey,
i found that fitting i was talking about online. (the hyd o-ringed one to a AN or jic) so you could run a bradded line out of the bellhousing if you wanted to.
cant find the pic now. but does anyone know the name of the o-ringed fitting that is held in with the clip?
how hard was that line to bend?
Posidon42
02-05-2013, 10:34 PM
not hard at all. I just clamped the end of the fitting to my bench and used a socket extension as a die. Slowly applied heat across the joint and bent by hand. Took me 4 or 5 times to get it right but I didn't want to reverse the bend direction.
BuildItYourSelf
02-05-2013, 10:39 PM
sounds good. let me know if ya need a hand throwing that tranny up in there.
i can bring that line bender also if you want to bent that master cly line.
you got my number.
Greg@PacePerformance
02-06-2013, 05:06 AM
Tick custom makes the nipple that goes into the slave to AN. They wouldn't sell me one :(
Greg@PacePerformance
02-06-2013, 07:00 AM
The sticker on the side of my trans case says Dexron III, Greg. I know that doesn't technically exist anymore, but I thought GM released a specific MTF for it rather than push manuals to the Dexron VI. I even read something somewhere that Tremec specifically did not recommend using Dexron VI. I was not aware that GM had cleared Dexron VI for use in manuals. Can you clarify, Greg?
FWIW, I still use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF, which meets/met the old Dexron III spec.
You were corrrect. USE DEX III. In the service manual it specifies 88861800
Here is some info I found on Corvette forum
STOCK: slightly difficult when cold, pretty darn good when warm, OK hot
AMSOIL ATF: worse when cold, same warm, better hot
REDLINE D4 ATF: similar to stock cold, same warm, better hot
GM SYNCHROMESH: good feel overall, but felt slightly too thick
ROYAL PURPLE SYNCHROMAX: better shifting when cold & warm, but worse hot
GM SERVICE FILL 88861800: better/best when cold, very good warm, but slightly notchy/worse when hot
Posidon42
02-17-2013, 02:50 PM
Great progress today. BuildItYourSelf and a friend of his came over and helped me put the trans, driveshaft, and some other parts in. We learned that you don't have to drop the k-member to install the trans. We took the bellhousing off the trans and installed the bellhousing, then mated the trans. Everything bolted up just fine. Couple more evenings and I should be ready to hear this thing start up again.
-Ray-
02-17-2013, 02:59 PM
Sweet.
jonnynadeau
02-17-2013, 03:23 PM
I'm just simply excited about the finished product. Is Greg going to setup a "kit" or are you?
iPhone, Tapatalk, enough said!
Posidon42
02-18-2013, 06:10 AM
Greg is setting up the kit. I have taken enough time putting this together, I have no business doing distribution :)
Greg@PacePerformance
02-18-2013, 07:29 AM
Great progress today. BuildItYourSelf and a friend of his came over and helped me put the trans, driveshaft, and some other parts in. We learned that you don't have to drop the k-member to install the trans. We took the bellhousing off the trans and installed the bellhousing, then mated the trans. Everything bolted up just fine. Couple more evenings and I should be ready to hear this thing start up again.
That is great to hear. Now it won't take so long next time I have to change the clutch. :)
Thanks for the tip, I'm not sure why we didn't think about it. That would have made it much easier to get the top bellhousing bolts as well.
I have a complete list of needed parts that I keep editing when I'm told extra parts are required or extra. :D
Posidon42
02-18-2013, 08:03 AM
We REALLY didn't want to drop that k-member and we spent a bit of time looking at it trying to figure out why it wouldn't work. It just looked too easy... One of the bolts was a little interesting to get to, but if you already have the socket extensions required to get the top bolt of the auto off, you should be set. FYI, you might want to add a new set of bellhousing bolts to the kit, just to be sure.
Greg@PacePerformance
02-18-2013, 08:17 AM
Both transmissions use the same bellhousing bolts.
Posidon42
02-18-2013, 10:54 AM
True, I just meant to have a new set to make sure. Especially since everything else from the bellhousing back will be new.
Posidon42
04-15-2013, 09:15 PM
Well, it's official. I am not going to be able to finish this before I leave for my deployment. I still need to finish some work on the basement in my rental and the renters are arriving two weeks early.
Thanks to Greg and everyone else who has helped with this project. Though there is still only one manual conversion in the world, there should be at least three by the end of the year.
I am hopeful someone else will take up the project as DIY and myself have gone a long way to getting the kit parts finalized for the conversion. Maybe we can get someone to take up the process of getting the ECM to be reprogrammed before you take anything else out of the car.
In the meantime, anyone have a good procedure for storing a car that hasn't run in almost a year and won't run for another 6 months? I am afraid of how stale the gas will be by the time I am ready to start it again.
AlaskaGT
04-22-2013, 08:25 AM
Drain the tank
Posidon42
04-22-2013, 01:48 PM
Any way to do this without dropping the tank? Right now I am kind tired of working on the car. Will get some stabil just to make sure but it won't get into the fuel system. Of course, most of the engine part of the fuel system isn't attached anyway.
G8GT721
05-13-2013, 02:44 PM
Have not read the whole thread yet, did you figure out the electronic gremlins yet?
Posidon42
05-14-2013, 11:03 PM
nope, and I won't be able to work on it until after I get back to the States. Uncle Sam has given me an opportunity to visit other parts of the world for a while. :)
G8GT721
05-15-2013, 04:06 PM
is the bell housing basically the same size, or.....? Just wondering if it is even and option with my turbos
G8GT721
05-15-2013, 04:07 PM
nope, and I won't be able to work on it until after I get back to the States. Uncle Sam has given me an opportunity to visit other parts of the world for a while. :)
Thanks for your service and Stay Safe
BuildItYourSelf
05-15-2013, 04:47 PM
is the bell housing basically the same size, or.....? Just wondering if it is even and option with my turbos
Should be just fine. Bell housing is very close to the same size and the manual trans is I little thinner.
Posidon42
05-16-2013, 08:59 AM
As he said. The bellbousing is basically the same size but the manual trans body is actually a bit thinner. The guys doing the ls swaps in miatas use manual trans for this exact same reason.
G8GT721
05-23-2013, 03:03 PM
which diff do you have, did you go with the 3.27, 3.45 or stick with the 2.92? Does anyone know of a calculator to compare speeds and rpm with all 3?
Kermit
05-23-2013, 03:16 PM
which diff do you have, did you go with the 3.27, 3.45 or stick with the 2.92? Does anyone know of a calculator to compare speeds and rpm with all 3?
I have a PDF file with that info if you want to send me your E-mail address. Got this file from a fellow member awhile ago.
G8GT721
05-23-2013, 03:23 PM
Thanks pm sent
Posidon42
05-27-2013, 05:06 AM
Since I have the supercharger, I took the advice of many people here on the forum and kept the 2.92. The manual trans is overall a bit shorter geared than the automatic, so I believe the end result with this package (without calculating it) is closer to a 3.00. I actually bought a 3.45 and sold it based on the advice of people here.
Posidon42
11-04-2013, 02:56 PM
BCM is out. :)
By the way, the images from the shop manuals are very confusing. They make it seem like it is on the left side of the drivers area, above the fuses. However, it is on the right side of the steering column. Was a tight squeeze to remove, but it's one day closer to being back on the road!
BuildItYourSelf
11-04-2013, 11:01 PM
What tune do you have in your ecm now?
I'm thinking you might have a problem loading the manual tune from the stock one. It might still look for the TCM. Although the new bcm may let it happen.
When I got home I started by getting the thing to run with the auto in with auto harness using the auto tune then try the manual. (All using the factory bcm)
After troubleshooting I found my f'in engine to body ground cable was for some reason not making contact. So after cleaning and all that it fired right up using the auto (with my mods) tune but would not shift gears. I believe the trans segment setup needed changed again in the auto cal to properly make that work. Anyway you could shift it in R or D and the dash said P and would not shift it to anything other the N so. I'm not sure if the TCM allowed that or the shift link overrides it manually for safety/towing reasons.
My point here is you could have got the thing done and drove it with out the hacked bcm just yet. You would just have other issues. But the tune may be easer to load/change.
If you run into problems you got my number feel free to call me and we may be able to solve it.
Also that 2.92 rear you'll never use 6th I got 3.45 rears and its pointless under 70mph. At 60 its at 1400 rpm. And when you ask for more power it says blahhh and sounds like the valvetran is pissed. Granted you have a blower but I think a little more rpm would be best for the engine. I'm thinking that's why the GXP went with 3.70. That and it had to impress the test driver with fake power over the auto. But even with my I'm guessing 425ish HP I can smoke the rears into 3rd no problem. So if I had more bottom end power is say 3.27 is the sweet spot.
Sorry for the long blabling post. Figured I would shair as much info as I could.
Posidon42
11-06-2013, 08:33 PM
Yeah, I already have my auto back out of the trans box and I'm going to hook pull the connectors on the ECM so the auto will communicate. I should have started with the tune first, but the hardware was 'easier' to deal with.
While I'm waiting for the BCM to get tuned, I'm working on the BMW. It's the project that never ends!! I thought I had a couple of oil leaks, but I am pretty sure it was just a clogged vent tube in the power steering reservoir. That's the only place I could see that was leaking. Tomorrow, I'm going to drain and refill the transmission and replace the 140k gear lube in the rear diff. Hoping to pick up an extra mpg or two for my effort.
Then I can reliably drive to work while working to get the G8 up and running.
BuildItYourSelf
11-06-2013, 09:00 PM
Yeah your gunna need the bcm with auto segment to load the tune by just jumping the TCM.
Welp I sure hope the tune takes with the manual segment.
Posidon42
11-06-2013, 09:22 PM
Well youre just a pot of sunshine arent ya... This will royally suck if thats true. Thought i would need the bcm changed before I flashed it.
BuildItYourSelf
11-06-2013, 10:01 PM
Well the best way for someone knowing what we know now would be to flash in the manual tune first thing. Then disconnect the battery. Then sway everything else.
I'm thinking the bcm centrols the TCM so it may not even look for it with the manual segment. My ecm with the auto segment loaded in NEEDED to see the TCM to flash.
So just hope the bcm can change that. This is why I just bought a new bcm and had it done.
Worse comes to worse I can send my bcm to be flashed for you. My auto is sold off so I'll never need it again. I was thinking about getting it flashed as a back up but its not a problem as long as Chris is around.
Posidon42
11-14-2013, 03:52 PM
So I have the new BCM and the auto harness reconnected to the car and the automatic trans. Seems like I have an error with the tune as I get a $0536 error :( At least I know it is seeing the auto.
Posidon42
11-14-2013, 04:28 PM
Holy blazing fast support Batman!! Pat sent me a new tune file and had me update my EFI live software a touch over an hour after I emailed him. He must be part borg or something :)
STL_G8GT
11-14-2013, 04:43 PM
He's pretty awesome
Posidon42
11-14-2013, 04:54 PM
Having some trouble getting the EFI live software update. And yes pat is pretty awesome.
Posidon42
11-14-2013, 05:05 PM
Finally got the software update installed. What a PITA!! And I now have my new tune, but I won't be able to mess with it until the morning. I've lost my daylight and it's darn cold out there :)
BuildItYourSelf
11-14-2013, 08:50 PM
I was going to say to you earlier but didn't think of it until I was off the phone.
I had to re configure the autocal for the manual segment.
Im thinking that's what he had you do?
Maybe that will help. I know after I re configured it and loaded the auto tune i could shift the shifter but the trans didn't shift.
Posidon42
11-14-2013, 08:54 PM
yeah, but at least I know the tuner can talk to the car. Just need to roll the automatic back out tomorrow and hopefully the tune will work. Then I just need to reinstall the exhaust system, wire up some stuff and fill up all of the fluids. Can't wait to get this working!!
Posidon42
11-15-2013, 10:12 AM
No joy with the new tune yet. Still seems to have some sort of communication problem. :(
Sent the info to PatG and we'll see what he can do to help.
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mrroy61805
11-24-2013, 04:42 PM
any luck yet? I hope its all working out for you!!
Posidon42
11-25-2013, 06:29 PM
Sorta. One step forward, two steps back :) Turns out I have some electrical problem that is preventing the Autocal from writing to the ECU. Likely related to the fact that I am trying to connect to the automatic trans while it is out of the car. I have part of the automatic harness connected and part of the manual harness connected. Something isn't happy. So I'm going to pull the ECU tomorrow and ship it off for a remote tune. PatG has an associate that can bench tune the car and since I'm using Pat's tune, I shouldn't have a problem reconnecting to it when I put everything back in.
Posidon42
12-26-2013, 12:05 PM
Grr. Now I have some ECM codes that are being thrown. No spark, no fuel but it does crank over. The security light isn't on, but I do get a check engine, and all of the other warnings that are there because I haven't retuned the throttle yet.
Codes are: P0107
P0118
P0122
P0223
P0641
:(
Now P0690: Chevrolet - Electronic Control Module Power Relay Sense Circuit High:
Possible causes
- Weak battery - Low voltage while cranking
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) relay
- Blown ECM fuse
- Faulty ECM
- ECM harness is open or shorted
- ECM circuit poor electrical connection
This is no fun...
Posidon42
12-26-2013, 12:45 PM
Also, I can communicate with the ECM via HPT and Autocal. However, I am starting to suspect that my new ECM may have some issues as I don't get any signals at all when using the VCM viewer.
Posidon42
12-26-2013, 04:46 PM
So now the starter doesn't work. Perfect. No clicking no nothing. Just nothing. Did I mention how much I hate electrical problems?
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STL_G8GT
12-26-2013, 06:29 PM
So now the starter doesn't work. Perfect. No clicking no nothing. Just nothing. Did I mention how much I hate electrical problems?
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Even jumpered to 12v it doesn't?
Posidon42
12-26-2013, 06:37 PM
haven't tried that. I'm trying to figure out what is causing the starter, the fuel injectors, and the spark not to work at the same time. It seems like maybe a mismatch with the ECM/BCM but I already sent the BCM off to Chris for reprogramming so I wouldn't have this problem. So I made some progress in other areas, but I am very frustrated with this project right now. I have the shop manual set and it doesn't seem to help me figure out what is going on.
STL_G8GT
12-26-2013, 07:10 PM
Shit I wish I could help. Has anyone else done this swap? Is your 6l80 tehcm still connected?
Posidon42
12-26-2013, 07:17 PM
Yes, there is a guy who helped me with this, but he moved back to PA. TCM is not connected anymore, that's why I had to send the ECU off to have it reprogrammed as I couldn't get it to flash while it was in the car.
I am fairly positive it is some connector or a ground or something that isn't connected right. Just makes me angry when it would crank earlier today, and now it won't.
STL_G8GT
12-26-2013, 07:25 PM
What did you change since the last time it cranked?
Your car has been on a lot, not running.... Any chance dead (dying) battery....?
Posidon42
12-26-2013, 07:57 PM
It's been in my garage and I charge the battery periodically. The only thing I tried was the 'resynch' procedure with the ECM / BCM. Where you turn the key on for 10 min, key off for 30 sec, repeat 3 times. After that it didn't wok anymore.
No change in ECM codes or anything. Did discover that I didn't have the cam position sensor installed. But correcting a problem shouldn't create a new one.
Posidon42
12-30-2013, 02:49 PM
Anyone else have any ideas? I can't find anything wrong, but I know it's probably cause I'm not looking in the right place.
BuildItYourSelf
12-30-2013, 06:35 PM
You check all the fuses in the trunk, kick pannel and under the hood. Plus the 120a inline to the starter?
Have some one turn the key on and listen to the fuel pump, and starter And that kind of stuff.
STL_G8GT
12-30-2013, 06:53 PM
Anyone else have any ideas? I can't find anything wrong, but I know it's probably cause I'm not looking in the right place.
The fact that the last thing you did was a resynch makes me worried it's an electronic issue. Any help from Chris white?
Posidon42
12-30-2013, 08:14 PM
I don't recall hearing the fuel pump kick in, but I'll check again. It isn't all that loud as a stock piece. I'll double check all the fuses again...
No word from Chris as I haven't contacted him about this yet.
Posidon42
12-30-2013, 08:54 PM
Hooray, some progress! Luckily I also have an HPTuner and I posted my woes on their forum as well. Two clicks of a button to disable the VATS system and at least the car cranks now. :D Unfortunately, it won't start but the battery was pretty dead. Apparently I forgot that there was a light in the trunk and I had the deck lid open. So here's to at least getting the car making some car-like noises!
STL_G8GT
12-30-2013, 09:37 PM
Awesome!!!!!
Posidon42
12-30-2013, 09:49 PM
Yeah, something is better than nothing. Still won't turn over though. I found some instructions on how to diagnose which of the 5V reference circuit sensors are causing a problem. Too bad I am out of time and need to go to bed :( I just really, REALLY hope that this doesn't come back that something in the ECM is fried. I don't know if parts of the ECM will work and others won't. But just about all of the error codes have a possible cause of a bad ECM.
Oh, and the fuel pump turns on just fine. Haven't checked for any fuel / spark yet. More diagnosing to do tomorrow, but it will probably wait until 1 Jan since I have that day off.
-Ray-
12-31-2013, 02:53 AM
Hooray, some progress! Luckily I also have an HPTuner and I posted my woes on their forum as well. Two clicks of a button to disable the VATS system and at least the car cranks now. :D Unfortunately, it won't start but the battery was pretty dead. Apparently I forgot that there was a light in the trunk and I had the deck lid open. So here's to at least getting the car making some car-like noises!
The light in the truck will only stay on for 10 minutes once it's opened and the cars not running. RAP=retained accessory power.
Posidon42
01-01-2014, 01:41 PM
Diagnostic update:
Still no luck finding the source of the problem. But I have narrowed it down to a problem with the low reference circuit. According to some instructions online I should get around 12 if I connect a multimeter to the brown pin on the cool and the positive battery lug. The chassis ground loop was ok as it had about 13v but I only get 8 on the low reference circuit. Continuing the slogging...
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Posidon42
01-01-2014, 03:12 PM
After double checking my wiring I discovered that there is a connector missing on the GXP harness that is on the GT harness. It is on the rear driver side main engine harness. On the GT there are three wires that come out of one bundle. One for the oil pressure sensor, one for the O2 sensor/knock sensor, and a third connector with 5 wires. This last one is not present in the GXP harness and with the Maggie installed, I can't see where it would go anyway. Thoughts??
The mystery connector is in the top right in the first pic. For some reason it rotated the pic when I took it.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/8uvugepa.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/3uqatype.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/ta6ypyvy.jpg
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BuildItYourSelf
01-01-2014, 03:30 PM
Your going to slap your forehead when I tell you.
Its for DOD
Posidon42
01-01-2014, 03:43 PM
I know, but will that prevent it from starting? I read here: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=36295&highlight=p0690 that their car wouldn't start and was throwing the same P0641 code because this wasn't connected.
I truly think I have some wiring issues here though. After checking the diagnostic procedures for the ECT and the TPS sensors, both indicate that there is a short in the system somewhere. And when I get continuity when I am supposed to get around 5 ohms of resistance, that kinda tells me the same thing :( What the heck could I have done wrong? I just plugged everything in like it was supposed to be. :(
BuildItYourSelf
01-01-2014, 03:53 PM
Dod should be turned off in your tune.
I'm not sure but if the 5v comes from your ecu then you might have to replace it if all checks out else where.
BuildItYourSelf
01-01-2014, 03:54 PM
Also that's what happened with my Maf. It shorted out and caused that issue. Unplug one sensor at a time and or one fuse at a time and see if you get the normal 5v.
Posidon42
01-01-2014, 04:40 PM
Yeah something is bleeding around 6v back through the system. When checking the 5v ref circuit, I'm supposed to have no voltage when the car is off and I have about 6v. Then when the ignition is on, I get 11v.
After about an hour of searching through my manual, I finally found all of the 5v ref circuit sensors. So I'm going to take a dinner break and start pulling them.
Wiring sucks.
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BuildItYourSelf
01-01-2014, 04:43 PM
That tells me it adds it together to male the 11v start with fuses and see what circuit makes the 6v go away then find the sensor on that circuit.
Don't limit yourself to thinking its one sensor or one circuit tho.
BuildItYourSelf
01-01-2014, 04:48 PM
Start with the can sensor. That's what started the problem with the voltage. And that would cause no spark no fuel when cranking.
Posidon42
01-11-2014, 03:41 PM
IT LIVES!!! Turns out my wiring problem was that I connected the x2 connector backwards. For the GT the wiring harness points away from the bumper. For the GXP, it's the opposite. That's why the connector didn't fit originally. Silly GM. Anyway I'm about to take it off the jacks and see if it will roll on it's own power.
I have to say that the short shift kit I bought is SHORT. Maybe two inches of travel between first and second. Can't wait to drive it!
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STL_G8GT
01-11-2014, 04:13 PM
IT LIVES!!! Turns out my wiring problem was that I connected the x2 connector backwards. For the GT the wiring harness points away from the bumper. For the GXP, it's the opposite. That's why the connector didn't fit originally. Silly GM. Anyway I'm about to take it off the jacks and see if it will roll on it's own power.
I have to say that the short shift kit I bought is SHORT. Maybe two inches of travel between first and second. Can't wait to drive it!
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That is awesome!!!!
Darkmanx
01-11-2014, 04:38 PM
nice....
Posidon42
01-11-2014, 04:59 PM
Omg that was the greatest drive ever. Kept it nice and docile. Second is actually kinda hard to get into but it should get better.
It does have an odd noise coming from the clutch when it's running in neutral. But again I assume it's just because it's a new clutch.
So stoked!!
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richm52
01-11-2014, 05:39 PM
Great news! Glad to see all your hard work come together.
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G8GTSBM
01-11-2014, 05:44 PM
Congrats!
Posidon42
01-11-2014, 06:16 PM
Thanks. I'll take some videos once I get some valid plates.
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Matt G8 dude
01-11-2014, 08:58 PM
I just read through all 33 pages of this and after everything you went through with this conversion I am sooo happy for you right now. I hope for your sake there aren't anymore complications with it. I have always wanted a manual trans in my GT and I read the other guys page when he did his. I was a little disheartend when he said it would take around $7000.00 to do it and most other mechanics would tell me if I was going to switch to a manual it would be best to buy the 6.2 with the M6 trans.
Hopefully this means Greg can complete his list on this conversion so us manual lovers can all enjoy our G8GT's as much as the lucky few who got a hold of the M6 GXP.
Congrats! This is awsome!
WIKED
01-12-2014, 03:59 AM
Excellent news. I'll be changing my HSV GTS from auto to manual this year too.
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travis gore
01-12-2014, 04:22 AM
Omg that was the greatest drive ever. Kept it nice and docile. Second is actually kinda hard to get into but it should get better.
It does have an odd noise coming from the clutch when it's running in neutral. But again I assume it's just because it's a new clutch.
So stoked!
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that is awesome! I am glad to see all the hard work finally paid off
TooManyHobbies
01-12-2014, 05:59 AM
Congrats on finally getting the bugs all worked out!
Posidon42
01-12-2014, 06:13 AM
Thanks all. It's definitely been a challenge but it sure feels worth it. :D
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BuildItYourSelf
01-12-2014, 09:33 AM
Omg that was the greatest drive ever. Kept it nice and docile. Second is actually kinda hard to get into but it should get better.
It does have an odd noise coming from the clutch when it's running in neutral. But again I assume it's just because it's a new clutch.
So stoked!!
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The noise is from the trans. Its normal so I'm told. That was something I was concerned with. Its just the trans running.
Matt G8 dude
01-12-2014, 10:25 AM
I guess this means you will have to change your sig.:thumbsup:
Posidon42
01-12-2014, 12:00 PM
Oh yeah! Signs don't come through via tapatalk so I forgot about it. :)
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Posidon42
01-12-2014, 12:31 PM
Thanks again to all who helped out with this project. I added some kudos to the first post. This is seriously a great community and I thank you all for the encouragement to continue. In the end, I achieved ALL of my goals with this project. A complete transplant with no customization using stock parts, and complete bolt-in ease (relatively). I also wanted to make sure I didn't have to have the TCM connected to the car, and that all of the gauges, lights, and everything worked just like a GXP.
I learned a lot through this process and in the upcoming weeks, I plan to post some of my lessons learned to BuildItYourSelf's installation post. No need to recreate the wheel, and he helped me install the transmission and get most of the mechanicals done before we both left on our deployments.
If anyone has any questions about the swap feel free to ask. The only thing I don't know is what this cost me as I had a LOT of different steps along the way. Just make sure you tune the electronics first before getting to the mechanical stuff. Even though this took me forever, I think we have figured out the way to get this done and it is a very achievable project.
jpG8GT
01-12-2014, 12:49 PM
Congrats on getting it running! Gotta be an awesome feeling. I always wanted a manual GXP. I hate the auto on a road course. Maybe some day this will happen for me...
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spider1701
01-12-2014, 06:06 PM
What would you say the cost would be now that you know the process from beginning to end. For those of us who can now benefit from your knowledge.
Posidon42
01-12-2014, 06:37 PM
What would you say the cost would be now that you know the process from beginning to end. For those of us who can now benefit from your knowledge.
The only thing I don't know is what this cost me
:D I knew that would be one of the first questions, which is why I put that in there. I would figure a solid $5k or better with all new parts and ECM/BCM tuning.
BuildItYourSelf
01-12-2014, 07:21 PM
I second the cost of at least $5k to start.
Greg@PacePerformance
01-13-2014, 07:46 AM
Does the cruse control work still?
Which ECM did you use? I think you used the 2008-2009 ECM with the GXP harness if I remember correctly.
Cost on parts? 5k seems very close.
I'm at 4500.00 in new parts w/o the clutch and flywheel since I leave that as an option to the customer. Since BuildItYourself and Posidon42 started these projects we have figured out where to save money and which parts can be reused.
The BCM programming is 199.99 (currently) from Chris White (http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=82&category_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54)
Then you will just need the ECM reprogrammed.
Glad to hear it is now running and driving.
BuildItYourSelf
01-13-2014, 08:46 AM
I can turn cruise on and off. It says its on or off on the dash. But it goes not work. I'm not sure why just yet. But that's what's going on with mine.
I had to do brake and clutch relearn to get it to come on and off.
But also I don't need to push the clutch in to start. Maybe if I change that if will.
Greg@PacePerformance
01-13-2014, 09:34 AM
I can turn cruise on and off. It says its on or off on the dash. But it goes not work. I'm not sure why just yet. But that's what's going on with mine.
I had to do brake and clutch relearn to get it to come on and off.
But also I don't need to push the clutch in to start. Maybe if I change that if will.
Hmm that is weird.
The BCM takes care of the cruise control. I think the clutch pedal sensor goes to the ECM.
Both of these should function I think and are important to the end user. Thanks William
BuildItYourSelf
01-13-2014, 02:50 PM
I think maybe the clutch pedal goes to the bcm its on the harness anyway. And the relearn is done when a bcm is replaced.
I'm just not sure if the clutch less start over rides the cruse control.
When I get my tune redone I'll have him change it and see what happens then.
Greg@PacePerformance
01-13-2014, 02:55 PM
Did you have Chris fix your BCM yet? That would explain it if you didn't
BuildItYourSelf
01-13-2014, 04:02 PM
Yes i got one from him.
Posidon42
01-13-2014, 04:54 PM
My BCM was fixed but I haven't tried the cruise yet. Still getting the abs and stability control errors. Took it to the dealership to reprogram the throttle but they didn't relearn anything else.
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BuildItYourSelf
01-13-2014, 05:18 PM
The dealer couldn't get anything to work when I went. There system looks for the TCM and shit.
We tried to do it as a 08 holden manual and still nothing.
That's the next step to figure out.
I emailed Chris and I don't think he understood my question. He said that's the ecu and has nothing to do with the bcm. But when the computer was doing its checks it looked for the bcm and TCM.
Not sure who to ask about that.
BuildItYourSelf
01-13-2014, 05:25 PM
The dealer couldn't get anything to work when I went. There system looks for the TCM and shit.
We tried to do it as a 08 holden manual and still nothing.
That's the next step to figure out.
I emailed Chris and I don't think he understood my question. He said that's the ecu and has nothing to do with the bcm. But when the computer was doing its checks it looked for the bcm and TCM.
Not sure who to ask about that.
Posidon42
01-13-2014, 06:37 PM
Grr. Can't catch a break with this car. Now I can't get I to second gear. Guess this MGW shifter won't work for me. Any ideas on if I can adjust it to make it engage better? Guess it's good I still have another car :)
Oh, and my cruise doesn't work either. Cruise turns on but won't engage. Probably something to do with the reason my ABS and traction control lights are still on.
Greg@PacePerformance
01-14-2014, 09:38 AM
I'm pretty sure the ABS and TC lights are from the dealer not doing a relearn on the brake pedal after the BCM swap.
Posidon42
01-14-2014, 10:35 AM
Ok I'll take it back again and see what they can do.
Need to mess with the shifter tonight and make sure I didn't do something wrong when putting it in. Called MGW and they had some ideas of things to check.
Greg@PacePerformance
01-14-2014, 11:56 AM
OK just let me know since I have the stock shifter on the shelf here. (see PM)
Posidon42
01-14-2014, 04:23 PM
PM sent
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Posidon42
01-15-2014, 05:51 PM
so apparently I didn't follow the MGW instructions as close as I thought. :( I had tightened up the rear two nuts under the car before fully raising the transmission in place. It's all good now.
I also discovered that I could give myself back quite a bit more travel by readjusting the jamb nut. So much nicer now
Posidon42
01-25-2014, 02:37 PM
Went up to the AF Academy shop today and fixed the shifter. Just needed to move it back a little bit more and it works Grrrrr8 now. :D
And while the car is definitely a bit slower than it was before due to the overall gear ratio, I'm not sure I want to change it yet. I took a quick drive up north on the highway and the DIC said I was getting around 35mpg @ 70mph. Surely gives my new Cruze a run for its money.
Blanky
01-27-2014, 09:06 PM
Id love to see a little video.. Im curious if this will be super reliable or if little gremlins will cause problems for the less hands on guys
Posidon42
01-28-2014, 06:35 PM
As in the other thread I don't forsee any issues. The car is basically a GXP now. Same mechanicals and the dealer can't mess with the tune anyway. I haven't gotten around to re-learning the clutch and brake yet. The only small issues I still have is that the cruise control doesn't work. I have a strong feeling this will be fixed once I get the pedals programmed.
No vids until the white stuff on the ground goes away and it warms up another 50 degrees or so :)
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Steve
01-29-2014, 02:52 PM
With all the snow that will give you plenty of time to write up an extremely detailed step-by-step guide right? ;)
BuildItYourSelf
01-29-2014, 04:00 PM
Between him and I we could but its pretty straight forward.
Mine has everything in the first post.
This one goes through his research and problems he and I have run into.
I learned a lot from this before I started mine. So it shows the path getting to where we are now.
Now we got everything figured out its all swapping parts and installing the clutch pedal.
My post has the picture for the cutout measurements.
As far as a step by step with torque specs and all that it would take some doing...
I have the manual of file so I could post the pages of the parts related to the swap.
If positon wants to do a write up I'm willing to help him with it. Using my pics and them files.
Posidon42
01-29-2014, 07:21 PM
Sounds like a good project. As soon as I feel like I'm done with all of the niggling issues. Also, I have hptuners and I'm going to eventually to a compare / contrast with the working tune and the last one with the automatic.
Also working on a separate relay to control the key lock. After I reprogram the pedals I'll see if that helps my cruise control issue. So far everything else works great.
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Posidon42
02-11-2014, 07:27 PM
Hooray!!! I finally took the car to the local dealership and got the brake and clutch pedal reprogrammed. They used an 09 g8 to tune the brake and a 10 corvette tune to relearn the clutch.
Abs light is gone, stability light is gone, and the cruise control works!! Best $100 I've spent (currently) on the car.
Ok so now everyone can go order their kit from Greg :) I'm still going to get a license plate that says #2 of 2 as I am the first one to not have any errors or any remnants of the automatic connected to the car.
Woot!! This was a very rewarding project and I'm VERY glad it's done. :)
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Matt G8 dude
02-11-2014, 07:34 PM
So glad to hear it all worked out. It will be a while before I have around $5000 of extra chash to spend but the most important part is you got it to work like it came from the factory. Awsome, simply awsome!
Congrats! Please post a video when you get the chance.
BuildItYourSelf
02-11-2014, 07:34 PM
Who's #1?
BuildItYourSelf
02-11-2014, 07:35 PM
Best part is both cars can be found in the same city this weekend!!!
Posidon42
02-11-2014, 08:04 PM
Who's #1?
#1 is the guy on the other board who inspired me to start this project. But I didn't want the keep the TCM in the car and I wanted everything to work like it would have come from the factory. So maybe I am #1 but I'd rather acknowledge the inspiration.
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Greg@PacePerformance
02-12-2014, 06:58 AM
A huge Congrats are in order!
Nice to hear it all now functions like it should and everything works. Now get onto that DIY write up :)
Matt82
02-12-2014, 07:49 AM
Awesome! It's been a long time coming.
BigV8
02-13-2014, 03:06 PM
A BIG congrats on getting this done. Hope you enjoy it for years to come. Your #1 in my book cause what you've gone thru!
Kermit
02-14-2014, 03:49 PM
Happy to see your trials and tribulations have come to produce fruit. Enjoy your "new" ride brother!!!!
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