Easiest/best source of 12 volt switched power for Wideband?

[DavesG8GT]

I'm about to install a digital Innovate LC1 wideband in my car, and I have a red power wire for the LC1 box itself AND a red power wire for the digital guage. Both have to go to 12 volt switched power. Where's the best and easiest place to get this power from? In reading this:

http://www.g8modz.com/wideband.htm

.....it says to use the F14 slot in the fuse panel to the right of the brake pedal. But can I run both power wires there or do I need to one run there and the other somewhere else? Sorry but I am a complete wiring dummy. I can do cam swaps like nobody's business but I'm not the brightest when it comes to electronics.

Thanks in advance for the help.

[08G8V8]

Any of the fuses you tap into in the fusebox in the drivers kick panel will not support remote start. See post #12 for info to wire it for remote start. I have yet to do this, and not sure I will, because my fuel system needs to prime before starting. It does work, but it cranks and cranks to start using the remote start.

http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=27228&highlight=wideband


And, I think you should be fine using the same location for both power wires. My wideband is the NGK AFX, and I have AeroForce gauges. All my gauges require 5V power, so those are all tied in together to 1 fuse, and my wideband is on a separate fuse.

[DavesG8GT]

Thanks. So I should be ok splicing in twice for 12v power to the pink & blue wire behind the light switch controls, PIN 10 circuit 1339? And that WILL activate the WB power after remote start but before key-on? I don't use remote start all that often, but when I do I would like it to warm up the WB as well.

[STL_G8GT]

Thanks. So I should be ok splicing in twice for 12v power to the pink & blue wire behind the light switch controls, PIN 10 circuit 1339? And that WILL activate the WB power after remote start but before key-on? I don't use remote start all that often, but when I do I would like it to warm up the WB as well.

That is the turn on wire I used for mine, however I used it to trigger a 12v relay that I then connected to my wideband... this allowed me to later add another gauge no problem. I don't know the current capacity of those wires and that circuit, but I would only use it as a +12v trigger for a relay.

[DavesG8GT]

Wait I just had a thought. I want the WB to come on on remote start, but only the LC1 wideband itself needs to come on not necessarily the display/guage light up. So wouldn't it make sense to wire the LC1 to the pink/blue pin 10 at the light switch so it activates at remote start, then do power to the guage/display itself to one of the fuses in the driver's footwell that will come on at key-on? That would make sense to me.

[STL_G8GT]

Wait I just had a thought. I want the WB to come on on remote start, but only the LC1 wideband itself needs to come on not necessarily the display/guage light up. So wouldn't it make sense to wire the LC1 to the pink/blue pin 10 at the light switch so it activates at remote start, then do power to the guage/display itself to one of the fuses in the driver's footwell that will come on at key-on? That would make sense to me.

I would just power it all at once
... but your thinking is correct... are you positive the controller doesn't turn the sensor on...

[DavesG8GT]

I would just power it all at once
... but your thinking is correct... are you positive the controller doesn't turn the sensor on...

Not sure I understand the question. The LC1 controller (simply a skinny long black box with no display) has a power wire for itself. When it gets power it will power up the sensor itself I assume. Then the digital guage itself has its own power wire and that's simply for the guage to light up and show data. You don't think it would cause any issues at all to just splice both red wires into the pink/blue headlight wire? I'm just a complete dummy when it comes to understanding current limits/etc.....

There's a reason I'm not an electrician.

This is the wideband I purchased:

http://www.lethalperformance.com/08-09-pontiac-g8-gt-widebands-innovate-c-3812_6643_6647/innovate-motorsports-db-series-wideband-gauge-kit-red-p-27111

[Crazy Paul]

Guys, is this useful for your needs?
It's a Phone Patch Harness 70cm long and it has a 16 cavity plug.
In behind the glovebox towards the right hand side of the car is a 16 cavity female socket to take this harness.
(Some of you may already have something else plugged in there, so you'd need to check).

As it comes from the Holden factory this Phone harness is wired up such that:
Pin 1 is Orange Wire = Battery +
Pins 2,3,& 4 are vacant
Pin 5 is Yellow Wire = Accessories +
Pin 6 is vacant
Pin 7 is Brown & Black = Audio+
Pin 8 is Blue = Audio -
Pin 9 is White = Phone Mute
Pin 10 is Black = Ground
Pins 11 to 16 are vacant.

I can't see why you couldn't insert a terminal into the vacant PIN 2 position and get yourself IGNITION 1 VOLTAGE.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Phone%20Patch%20Harness/Pr1010113.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Phone%20Patch%20Harness/Pr1010115.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Phone%20Patch%20Harness/Px1010116.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Phone%20Patch%20Harness/trgh1.jpg

[DavesG8GT]

Thanks CP! I will check that out.

[Devilish34]

Not sure I understand the question. The LC1 controller (simply a skinny long black box with no display) has a power wire for itself. When it gets power it will power up the sensor itself I assume. Then the digital guage itself has its own power wire and that's simply for the guage to light up and show data. You don't think it would cause any issues at all to just splice both red wires into the pink/blue headlight wire? I'm just a complete dummy when it comes to understanding current limits/etc.....

There's a reason I'm not an electrician.

This is the wideband I purchased:

http://www.lethalperformance.com/08-09-pontiac-g8-gt-widebands-innovate-c-3812_6643_6647/innovate-motorsports-db-series-wideband-gauge-kit-red-p-27111

Return that WB and get a AEM.. The LC1 is a royal pain in the ass to program. Get a add a fuse and pull power from one of the coil packs..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AVM-30-4100/

[STL_G8GT]

Return that WB and get a AEM.. The LC1 is a royal pain in the ass to program. Get a add a fuse and pull power from one of the coil packs..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AVM-30-4100/

This is what I have... very happy with it.

[STL_G8GT]

Not sure I understand the question. The LC1 controller (simply a skinny long black box with no display) has a power wire for itself. When it gets power it will power up the sensor itself I assume. Then the digital guage itself has its own power wire and that's simply for the guage to light up and show data. You don't think it would cause any issues at all to just splice both red wires into the pink/blue headlight wire? I'm just a complete dummy when it comes to understanding current limits/etc.....

There's a reason I'm not an electrician.

This is the wideband I purchased:

http://www.lethalperformance.com/08-09-pontiac-g8-gt-widebands-innovate-c-3812_6643_6647/innovate-motorsports-db-series-wideband-gauge-kit-red-p-27111

I would not wire both of those through the headlight circuit. cp's concept would work well probably... or at the very least use a relay off that pink lead.

[Devilish34]

This is what I have... very happy with it.
I had a LC1 and could never get it to program right.. I returned it and got a AEM which way night and day compared to the LC1

[Crazy Paul]

Thanks CP! I will check that out.

Looks like Ignition 1 circuit is Active upon Crank Request (Remote Start) & also whenever key is in Run mode.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/harnesses/Power-Mode.jpg

2008 Pontiac G8 Wiring & Power Management/Power Modes
http://www.grrrr8.net/crazypaul/Power%20Mode.pdf

[DavesG8GT]

I wired it up to the pink/blue wire behind the headlight switch, both of them (the WB itself and the guage). I have had no issues at all and it works great. Should I be concerned of it causing any issues with both being tapped into the same headlight wire? 250-300 or so miles now and no issues.

[battousai]

I had a LC1 and could never get it to program right.. I returned it and got a AEM which way night and day compared to the LC1

were you following the instructions? i did and it works fine for me (98 camaro tho)

[Devilish34]

were you following the instructions? i did and it works fine for me (98 camaro tho)

yep... went through it at least 3 times before calling/texting some friends.. all had similar issues and suggested the AEM... AEM is plug and play with no bs software to mess with..