wreckwriter
03-16-2012, 08:32 AM
Let me preface this by saying that most of you will not need this mod. Its too difficult and expensive to do unless you need it....
Back in the day, when my car was street legal and, at least relatively, stock; I contacted the 2 racing agencies regarding whether or not we had to have a battery disconnect switch due to our battery being in the trunk. Since the rule reads "if battery has been relocated to trunk" it was determined that we did not. Now though, as I get a bit quicker I run across a rule which states that its mandatory on cars 9.99 and quicker.... So much for the dispensation.
Another problem is the rule which states that the trunk must either be sealed with a firewall or the battery must be in a sealed box. Again, a relatively stock car would be ok but since my trunk and back seat areas have been stripped, I was faced with possibly being turned away at tech. At first I thought sealing the trunk would be the easiest method. Once I removed the rear shelf cover I realized that the rear shelf has about 20 holes in it. The only way to do it would be a full piece of aluminum riveted in and sealed with seam sealer. That sounded beyond my ability to make it both work and look decent. Here are a few pics of the solution I arrived at and implemented...
Battery disconnect switch (Moroso 74101):
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/55C8105E-orig.jpg
Inside bumper cover view:
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/F20E7B58-orig.jpg
Battery box (Taylor Cable 48100):
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/70645B78-orig.jpg
View with lid off:
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/AFFC56D0-orig.jpg
As expected, the battery terminal fuse block proved a bitch but I managed to get it in there. I used 1/0 welding cable due to extra flexibility. I had to pretty much remake the entire trunk portion of both battery cables. I used lugs and butt splices crimped and soldered.
Everything works as advertised, with engine running a flip of the switch instantly shuts it down.
Back in the day, when my car was street legal and, at least relatively, stock; I contacted the 2 racing agencies regarding whether or not we had to have a battery disconnect switch due to our battery being in the trunk. Since the rule reads "if battery has been relocated to trunk" it was determined that we did not. Now though, as I get a bit quicker I run across a rule which states that its mandatory on cars 9.99 and quicker.... So much for the dispensation.
Another problem is the rule which states that the trunk must either be sealed with a firewall or the battery must be in a sealed box. Again, a relatively stock car would be ok but since my trunk and back seat areas have been stripped, I was faced with possibly being turned away at tech. At first I thought sealing the trunk would be the easiest method. Once I removed the rear shelf cover I realized that the rear shelf has about 20 holes in it. The only way to do it would be a full piece of aluminum riveted in and sealed with seam sealer. That sounded beyond my ability to make it both work and look decent. Here are a few pics of the solution I arrived at and implemented...
Battery disconnect switch (Moroso 74101):
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/55C8105E-orig.jpg
Inside bumper cover view:
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/F20E7B58-orig.jpg
Battery box (Taylor Cable 48100):
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/70645B78-orig.jpg
View with lid off:
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/AFFC56D0-orig.jpg
As expected, the battery terminal fuse block proved a bitch but I managed to get it in there. I used 1/0 welding cable due to extra flexibility. I had to pretty much remake the entire trunk portion of both battery cables. I used lugs and butt splices crimped and soldered.
Everything works as advertised, with engine running a flip of the switch instantly shuts it down.