tchr49
02-01-2012, 01:38 PM
This is a follow-up DIY post for the thread "Make your wife happy-do this mod"
At the risk of repeating myself (excuse me, I'm old) I've read quite a few posts from people who live in colder climates.
That, combined with having too much time on my hands, I decided to see if I could find a quality heated seat kit adaptable
to the rear seating surfaces, and how easily it could be done. I found both.
I did a fair bit of research into various kits on the basis of quality, origin of manufacture, ease of installation, degree of customer
service, feature, and warranty.
What I didn't want was: junk, an internet nightmare, and lousy customer service.
I ordered my kit from Check Corporation located in Troy, Michigan. Premium kit for two seats, back and cushion elements, 3 heat
settings, one hour automatic shut off, and flat membrane-type switches. Components are top quality, instructions superb, and customer service/
website outstanding.
There is no kit specific to rear seats, let alone a G8. I would suggest you request Nathan to help you out. He offered the suggestion of a
kit made for 04-06 Grand Am, PRM-210+2 FLAT 3 series wire dual with 2 flat switches. Depending on your mount location, other combinations are
possible.
You can pull power from the rear cigarette lighter harness visible after you remove the rear console finish panel. There's a thread on this. Pull #13 fuse.
Remove the two trim pieces and 9 screws, and you're there. The lighter connector is already switched 12v power with a 20 amp fuse.
Tie into the upper left blade, and ground to the excess threads protruding from the small console mounting screws. No need to disconnect battery.
Rear seat removal is easy, the bottom cushion pulls up at the corners, and the seat sides loosen by removing two nuts at the bottom, and
simply lifting each seat out, leaving the center armrest in place.
I used the stamped upright channel where the front of the lower cushion rests to run my wires through and protect them. This did involve
cutting a 15/16 hole in the front face of the channel, in the area centered above the d/s tunnel. Just pull the carpet back a bit, and drill through
the angled face. Get a suitable grommet to finish it off and protect the wires when you run them through. You can stick your fingers through
enough to loosen the carpet from the padded backing. Run the relay power wires and the switch harness between the carpet and the padding.
It will be undectable when you're done. I took a heavy gauge wire, taped the wires to it, and pulled them forward into the opening at the back of
the console. I pulled about a foot to play with-makes the final switch connecting easier.
Run the relay power harness, and the switch harness toward the passenger side of the car inside the boxed area. I insulated them with I bubble wrap.
I cut another 15/16 hole near the inside corner to exit my wires. The well on the passesger side makes a great place for the controller box. I velcroed them in place,so they wouldn't shift Just made my connections from there.
The seat covers remove easily, no hog rings, etc., just J clips and velcro. If you're hesitant, I can't imagine any reputable trim shop charging you more than $25-30 to put the elements in. You have to make small slits to run the element wires out the back of the foam.
Biggest PITA of all is locating and cutting access holes in the rear trim piece that goes between the cubby and the a/c vents, and corresponding holes
in the trim frame I have pics and measurements I'd be glad to email you if decide to take on this project. Bit of a juggling act to make the final switch
connections and snap the trim piece back in place, but if a half-blind 63 year old can do it, so can you.
If you can crimp wires, use a hand drill and small files, remove fuse #13 in the instrument fuse panel, pull a few wires, and snap some connections, you can do this.
I'm sure there are other places you could mount switches (they do offer the conventional round ones). I considered the plastic carpet finishing pieces that
border the rear lower front corners, but they wouldn't be visible or easily accessible to operate.
Sorry if I rambled, feel free to PM me if I can help in any way.
2/2/12 added note: I noticed today that cutting any access holes is personal preference. My 2009.5 (w/cup holder) has enough space to allow
the power harness wires and switch harness under the carpet, up over the ledge, and directly into the rear floor pan area without being visible.
With the seat back in place there is adequate clearance so the wires will not pinch. Install just got really easy.
At the risk of repeating myself (excuse me, I'm old) I've read quite a few posts from people who live in colder climates.
That, combined with having too much time on my hands, I decided to see if I could find a quality heated seat kit adaptable
to the rear seating surfaces, and how easily it could be done. I found both.
I did a fair bit of research into various kits on the basis of quality, origin of manufacture, ease of installation, degree of customer
service, feature, and warranty.
What I didn't want was: junk, an internet nightmare, and lousy customer service.
I ordered my kit from Check Corporation located in Troy, Michigan. Premium kit for two seats, back and cushion elements, 3 heat
settings, one hour automatic shut off, and flat membrane-type switches. Components are top quality, instructions superb, and customer service/
website outstanding.
There is no kit specific to rear seats, let alone a G8. I would suggest you request Nathan to help you out. He offered the suggestion of a
kit made for 04-06 Grand Am, PRM-210+2 FLAT 3 series wire dual with 2 flat switches. Depending on your mount location, other combinations are
possible.
You can pull power from the rear cigarette lighter harness visible after you remove the rear console finish panel. There's a thread on this. Pull #13 fuse.
Remove the two trim pieces and 9 screws, and you're there. The lighter connector is already switched 12v power with a 20 amp fuse.
Tie into the upper left blade, and ground to the excess threads protruding from the small console mounting screws. No need to disconnect battery.
Rear seat removal is easy, the bottom cushion pulls up at the corners, and the seat sides loosen by removing two nuts at the bottom, and
simply lifting each seat out, leaving the center armrest in place.
I used the stamped upright channel where the front of the lower cushion rests to run my wires through and protect them. This did involve
cutting a 15/16 hole in the front face of the channel, in the area centered above the d/s tunnel. Just pull the carpet back a bit, and drill through
the angled face. Get a suitable grommet to finish it off and protect the wires when you run them through. You can stick your fingers through
enough to loosen the carpet from the padded backing. Run the relay power wires and the switch harness between the carpet and the padding.
It will be undectable when you're done. I took a heavy gauge wire, taped the wires to it, and pulled them forward into the opening at the back of
the console. I pulled about a foot to play with-makes the final switch connecting easier.
Run the relay power harness, and the switch harness toward the passenger side of the car inside the boxed area. I insulated them with I bubble wrap.
I cut another 15/16 hole near the inside corner to exit my wires. The well on the passesger side makes a great place for the controller box. I velcroed them in place,so they wouldn't shift Just made my connections from there.
The seat covers remove easily, no hog rings, etc., just J clips and velcro. If you're hesitant, I can't imagine any reputable trim shop charging you more than $25-30 to put the elements in. You have to make small slits to run the element wires out the back of the foam.
Biggest PITA of all is locating and cutting access holes in the rear trim piece that goes between the cubby and the a/c vents, and corresponding holes
in the trim frame I have pics and measurements I'd be glad to email you if decide to take on this project. Bit of a juggling act to make the final switch
connections and snap the trim piece back in place, but if a half-blind 63 year old can do it, so can you.
If you can crimp wires, use a hand drill and small files, remove fuse #13 in the instrument fuse panel, pull a few wires, and snap some connections, you can do this.
I'm sure there are other places you could mount switches (they do offer the conventional round ones). I considered the plastic carpet finishing pieces that
border the rear lower front corners, but they wouldn't be visible or easily accessible to operate.
Sorry if I rambled, feel free to PM me if I can help in any way.
2/2/12 added note: I noticed today that cutting any access holes is personal preference. My 2009.5 (w/cup holder) has enough space to allow
the power harness wires and switch harness under the carpet, up over the ledge, and directly into the rear floor pan area without being visible.
With the seat back in place there is adequate clearance so the wires will not pinch. Install just got really easy.