New FTI stall issues

[Virus]

I installed a new FTI 3000 stall converter this past Saturday. I noticed this morning on the way to work that it was making a "whirring" type noise when under load. I got off the highway and when in park it stopped making any noises. When in reverse or any gear it makes the noise. I proceeded to keep going to work since it wasn't far away. The trans started slipping alot and I pulled over again, let the car sit for a minute and drove the remaining 500 yards to work and parked it. All the while slipping like crazy to a poin I couldn't drive more than 15mph without full slip. It seemed to engage for a second and then slip again. Temps never climbed past 79c. After the stall was installed we added about 3 quarts of trans fluid total to the stall and then into the trans. I was only at 29c when we checked fluid level and added approximately 2 quarts of ATF. I'm wondering if I have a defective stall or if adding 2 quarts too much fluid could have called this. Thoughts?

[BMR Sales]

Definitely give Greg at FTI a call and pick his brain about I am sure he will be able to tell you out.

[GRRRR8]

Make sure the fluid is full on a level surface at the correct temp.

[GRRRR8]

Here is a link how to do it correctly: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=320

[Call-Me-D]

Out of curiosity, have you adjusted the tune yet? I had a similar issue with mine hunting for gear(slip feeling) after my converter install and had a similar whirring shound coming from the converter(both before and after I had it rebuilt)... The slip, which I was told was a damaged trans by my tuner/converter builder, turned out to be a tuning issue. Resolved by loading a BONE STOCK G8 tune and adjusting from there. NO problems since.

The "whirring" noise went away after a few hundred miles. I'm thinking everything needed to break in and settle???

Not saying these are your problems, but it is what I encountered from a similar situation. Like Charlie said,recheck fluid level for sure, just to be safe.

Hope this helps.

[todds87ss]

that does seem like alot of fluid. Could be overfilled.

[Virus]

Definitely give Greg at FTI a call and pick his brain about I am sure he will be able to tell you out.

I called Greg this morning. He wasn't there so they got Justin on the phone and he was of no help. He said right off the bat that he couldn't troubleshoot over the phone and when I pressed him for answers he just wasn't interested in listening. All he said was to send it back, check the filter for debris and if something was wrong they would send me a new one.

[Virus]

Out of curiosity, have you adjusted the tune yet? I had a similar issue with mine hunting for gear(slip feeling) after my converter install and had a similar whirring shound coming from the converter(both before and after I had it rebuilt)... The slip, which I was told was a damaged trans by my tuner/converter builder, turned out to be a tuning issue. Resolved by loading a BONE STOCK G8 tune and adjusting from there. NO problems since.

The "whirring" noise went away after a few hundred miles. I'm thinking everything needed to break in and settle???

Not saying these are your problems, but it is what I encountered from a similar situation. Like Charlie said,recheck fluid level for sure, just to be safe.

Hope this helps.

It worked fine on the tune for 2 days of driving it so it's hard to imagine it's a tuning issue? Last night I heard the whirring sound barely. This morning it got progressively worse with a little chatter too. In the end if was basically all slip and no go. I could barely make it through the stop light. The rpm's would just rise and fall like nobody was home listening. Then it would catch just enough to get me going again until I got to my parking space. I checked my fluid level this past spring and followed the directions posted here. At that time I was 2.5 quarts low in fluid from the factory. I installed almost 1 quart of fluid in the stall. Then I did not follow the temp directions and installed until full with the car at 29c. I went through all the gears as mentioned, but not at the correct temp which is why it most likely took so much fluid before coming out of the hole. I'm sure there's probably too much fluid in there. Not sure what damage could result with too much fluid?

[todds87ss]

It worked fine on the tune for 2 days of driving it so it's hard to imagine it's a tuning issue? Last night I heard the whirring sound barely. This morning it got progressively worse with a little chatter too. In the end if was basically all slip and no go. I could barely make it through the stop light. The rpm's would just rise and fall like nobody was home listening. Then it would catch just enough to get me going again until I got to my parking space. I checked my fluid level this past spring and followed the directions posted here. At that time I was 2.5 quarts low in fluid from the factory. I installed almost 1 quart of fluid in the stall. Then I did not follow the temp directions and installed until full with the car at 29c. I went through all the gears as mentioned, but not at the correct temp which is why it most likely took so much fluid before coming out of the hole. I'm sure there's probably too much fluid in there. Not sure what damage could result with too much fluid?

I've only heard of "foaming" or aeration of fluid, and fluid out of the vent.

[RichsGreyGT]

I was thinking about getting an FTI stall but just reading this story half written is scaring me away....


maybe FTI can post up here and calm us all down...


subscribed...

[Virus]

My main concern is the noise appears when I put the can into any gear. When I have it in park the noise isn't there. Wouldn't the noise always be there if it was the stall?

[desertg8]

I have had problems since day one with my fti 3600 stall. Sort of a bearing noise in the morning. Then I started getting code p0741. clutch slippage. This was before the bolts came loose. The bolts did get loose on it a few weeks ago so the impeller hub was damaged. Greg was nice enough to put in a new impeller hub at no cost. I do not know if the bolts coming loose were due to defective bolts or a defective install. So I will just take the blame on that and roll with it. He did say my clutches looked great! And the problem is internal in the transmission. But the code goes back to the torque converter. And he said the impeller hub has nothing to do with slippage. So I am hoping when it gets back together in the next few days I have no problem. I have told the dealer to check the tcc solenoids and any other type of sensor that could be causing the torque converter slippage code. At any rate Greg was helpful. But if I start getting the same problem I will just bite the bullet and buy a Yank.

[Call-Me-D]

My main concern is the noise appears when I put the can into any gear. When I have it in park the noise isn't there. Wouldn't the noise always be there if it was the stall?

I wouldn't think so, mine didn't. When the car is in park neutral, you're taking all the load off the trans. The converter internals spin at the same rpm of the engine. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.

I really hope you get your problem figured out. Sucks not knkowing what the hell is going on.

[Virus]

Bearing noise/whirring is what I am hearing. We did some logging with HPT and nothing looked out of the ordinary. We locked and unlocked the converter without issue. With it locked I took it to 5200 rpms with no issue. The sound went away with the converter locked and under load which this morning it was making noise under load.

[Virus]

I wouldn't think so, mine didn't. When the car is in park neutral, you're taking all the load off the trans. The converter internals spin at the same rpm of the engine. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.

I really hope you get your problem figured out. Sucks not knkowing what the hell is going on.

Sucks not knowing if it's an relatively inexpensive issue or small car expensive issue :( Kinda strange that I haven't had any issues before the stall. I am planning on dropping the pan on Saturday to see if anything is in there. Hopefully it's clean. I've been running Amsoil ATF in there since the spring without issue. Could the converter not like the Amsoil?

[wreckwriter]

Does the amsoil meet Dex 6 specs? If not it could be your trans that doesn't like it. Your first move is to properly check the fluid level.

[wreckwriter]

I currently have an FTI 3600 in mine, it works perfectly.

[Virus]

Does the amsoil meet Dex 6 specs? If not it could be your trans that doesn't like it. Your first move is to properly check the fluid level.

The Amsoil does meet Dex 6 specs.

[-Ray-]

I have to agree with others that the first step is using the correct procedure for checking fluid level.

[G8V8]

Shawn used the right precedure except for being 1 degree colder than they want. Could 1 degree make much of a difference?

[-Ray-]

Ed, nominal temp would be 40 C. I would still check it, but my concern is the transmission.

[locrzn#92]

This happened to me with the fti, however the guys who installed my converter didn't put enough fluid in and I had all kinds of trouble. We thought it was the converter and they said thats what the problem was. However, I still think they didn't get enough fluid in it, I think it was a couple quarts low. The reason I think that is when they put the stock converter back in he kept saying I can't believe this is taking so much fluid. We sent it back for a refund and I still had to pay for the shipping and taking the converter back out. Later they did a converter in a vet and had the same issue, couldn't get it working correctly and the tuner couldn't get the issues worked out in the tune. Then they checked the fluid and seen it was a couple quarts low.

[G8V8]

Thanks Ray. i thought the check range was 30 to 50 C. Checking the fluid level is the "most free" fix shawn might luck-out and find. Well worth doing first. I was just curious about how sensitive it was to temp.

[todds87ss]

I have to agree with others that the first step is using the correct procedure for checking fluid level.
He was only 1 degree from minimum "checking temp". My concern is that it sounds like you added 5 qts total. Should be around 3.

[Virus]

He was only 1 degree from minimum "checking temp". My concern is that it sounds like you added 5 qts total. Should be around 3.

I added 3 quarts total for the stall change. The converter took a little less than a quart. I could be 2-3 quarts too much as I did the proper fluid check procedure in spring of 2011. It was 2.5 quarts low from the factory at that time and I filled to full making sure to follow the procedure to a T. Could too much fluid cause a bearing/whirring noise? Also, how many quarts of fluid will just a drain and fill require? I know this won't get rid of all the old fluid, but the DIY shop doesn't have a flush machine. I really appreciate all the help guys.

[Virus]

I want to be clear here what I did yesterday for testing so that everyone has all of the information to base feedback on. Last night, I put the stock tune back on the car. By stock, I mean the tune I had previous to both the stall and the 3.27 gears. So the stock tune did not take into consideration of the 3.27 gears or the stall. We were able to put the car into 2nd gear, lock and unlock the converter without any issues using HPT. When the converter was locked, it did not slip or make any noise when pushed as high as 5200 rpms. When I came to a stop however, the bearing/whirring noise did appear. This is completely opposite of what I experienced in the morning on my way to work. With more throttle input there was an increase in the bearing/whirring noise followed by what I would call severe slipping. The slipping was so sever, that I was able to have the car at 4,000 rpms without putting any power to the wheels and subequently could not move. Letting off the throttle and then gingerly depressing it time and again allowed me to creap forward at 10 mph until I was able to get to a safe place to stop. I turned off the car, waited a few minutes and then turned the car back on. I was able to drive at normal road speeds 25 mph albeit it was still slipping. Thoughts or any additional questions you have for me? Could the whine be from a speed/rpm mismatch?

[-Ray-]

A Tech II should give you how much the TC is slipping. My concern is you could get the rpm's up to 4k with the car in gear and not moving.
You need to get the G8 on a lift and get the fluid warm and pull the plug.

[G8V8]

^^^^^ Yep.

[Virus]

A Tech II should give you how much the TC is slipping. My concern is you could get the rpm's up to 4k with the car in gear and not moving.
You need to get the G8 on a lift and get the fluid warm and pull the plug.

I will get this done Saturday!

[wreckwriter]

Minimal driving until you get it checked.

[Virus]

Minimal driving until you get it checked.

Someone in our G8 club was nice enough to bring his flat bed and tow it to the DIY shop yesterday. I'm not driving it until I change the fluid and check the pan. Then minimally to test, then perhaps putting the stock stall back in. All dependent on what the pan looks like. Praying it's clean!

[DavesG8GT]

^^^ Good luck! Sorry to hear of your troubles. :(

[Virus]

^^^ Good luck! Sorry to hear of your troubles. :(

Thanks a bunch Dave. The good news is a new trans isn't as pricey as I thought. About $2000 for a 6185e with core exchange :)

[Virus]

Did the work today and it was inconclusive. No metal shavings in the pan, but there was a little build up that looked like possible clutch issues. I wasn't able to do a full trans flush, but I do have the correct amount of fluid in there now along with a new filter. The bearing/whirring noise is no longer there. I didn't hear it at all during the time I drove it today. I think I may end up going the century transmission route and send back the FTI converter for proper inspection. I am experiencing some pretty serious shift flares during shifts and some slipping. It actually seems worse if I drive normally than a little more aggressive.

[GRRRR8]

Make sure the trans tune is correct. I see a lot of weird trans issues in multiple brands of convertors and types of cars. 1st cause is fluid, 2nd cause is always the tune.

A minimum of 1 qt of fluid should be added to the convertor itself before it is put in the trans. Not doing that will kill just about any convertor and/or trans.

[Virus]

Make sure the trans tune is correct. I see a lot of weird trans issues in multiple brands of convertors and types of cars. 1st cause is fluid, 2nd cause is always the tune.

A minimum of 1 qt of fluid should be added to the convertor itself before it is put in the trans. Not doing that will kill just about any convertor and/or trans.

I could only get 3/4 quart in the converter. I let it sit for over an hour and could not fit anymore fluid in the converter before it was put in the car. It's shifting really badly with pretty enormous flares and slipping.

[wreckwriter]

Sounds to me like its smoked. Charlie's right though, its generally the tune. Who tuned it?

[GRRRR8]

Usually to get a qt or more in a convertor you have to tilt it slightly, BUT 3/4 should have been enough.

[Virus]

I moved it around to get as much fluid as I could in it and get all the air bubbles out. It was originally tuned by Steve Williams at Frost.

[GRRRR8]

I don't doubt your original tune was fine for your application, but once the convertor went in the trans part of the tune was considerably off.

[wreckwriter]

I think this- didn't get enough fluid in the converter. This resulted in the converter filling on start up which, in turn, resulted in the trans level being low. Clutches smoked after a couple days. Just a theory/guess of course.

[Daniel Linnett]

I had same problem. Didnt get enough in the converter. Was low. Do after driving for 10 min went back and pumped more in until it started to comeout the hole.


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[G8V8]

Using HPT the stall was locked for some testing. It held well. It does not act like a bad stall. Today we looked in the pan and replaced the filter. Like Shawn said, no metal in the pan. What was there was some clutch dust. To change the filter, we dropped the pan after draining fluid. We caught and measured the fluid. It was 3 quarts. After installing the filter and replacing the pan, we added 3full quarts plus part of a fourth and followed the level check procedures exactly. By the time it was up to temp most of the 4th qt had drained out before it stopped and we buttoned it up.

I do not believe his trans was over or under filled when the stall was installed. I do not believe it was possible to get more fluid into the stall before installation. His noise went away today after the new filter for some reason.

I think Shawn needs to get a tune specifically for his stall. Today we loaded a copy of his tune that at least was corrected for the diff swap (3:27) that was done at the same time as his stall installation.

[Virus]

I had same problem. Didnt get enough in the converter. Was low. Do after driving for 10 min went back and pumped more in until it started to comeout the hole.


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I'm certain we actually filled the car too high with fluid. Last spring I did the correct procedure to fill the car and found it was 2.5 quarts too low from the factory. We didn't lose very much fluid at all during the install, yet we used 3 quarts. The stock stall was larger of course, but I don't think it was 2 quarts more. Today we made sure it was definitely the correct level, but I fear it's too late. Would be nice if I were wrong, but the slipping and flaring is really bad. We did some logging and the converter seemed to be behaving normally. It is quite odd that the sound I was experiencing went away totally after the drain, pan drop/clean, filter change and refill. I wouldn't think fluid would "fix" a mechanical sound as bad as it was.

[G8V8]

One thing I don't understand is why you think it was overfilled. We measured what we took out while changing the filter. We ended putting the same amount back in plus maybe a very little more by the time we had completed the full check and fill precedure. If it is correct now, it was correct before.

[desertg8]

Overfilling your transmission would not of made the converter or transmission go out. It is not the best thing and in the olden days too much pressure would maybe blow a seal. But we have an overfill tube. It comes out if overfilled.

Also the tune would not make the transmission slip. You may have unlocking and locking and some surge due to your tables being wrong.

I think you have bad clutches in your transmission. Since the car is running and there is no grinding your gears are probably ok. You may need a clutch rebuild in the transmission. Retail at a dealership is 1700 for that. You can maybe get a deal for 1300 including parts and labor.

Or if you want to go the century transmission way for 4K that would work. It is 3300 for the transmission. Then you have shipping and tuning.

Good luck on what ever you decide!

[G8-4-Speed]

Use the HPT scanner and reset the trans adaptive learns (two reset button), then drive. This helps....

[FTI]

Virus, when you pull the unit out send the converter to me and I will cut and clean it as well as check it out.

Greg

[Virus]

Virus, when you pull the unit out send the converter to me and I will cut and clean it as well as check it out.

Greg

I appreciate you responding Greg. I shipped my car to G8-4-Speed last week. I'm not sure of the exact route cause of the issues, but I do know that basically all of my clutches are either fried or damaged and the filter. I suspect it was a 2 fold issue with the tune and low fluid. Regardless, Rick feels the converter is fine (fingers crossed) and he is currently installing new Century clutches, new seals, deeper pan, etc. as described in another post within this section. My car is in good hands and if all goes well I will be heading to North Carolina to pic it up this Sunday. Again, thank you for responding. It was great speaking with you when I was looking for a stall. What I really appreciated was your integrity when I asked if you would price match PM-FL and you told me you would prefer I go through Rich at PM-FL. I spoke to Rich at length and he was great as well.

[MIEngineer]

This happened to me with the fti, however the guys who installed my converter didn't put enough fluid in and I had all kinds of trouble. We thought it was the converter and they said thats what the problem was. However, I still think they didn't get enough fluid in it, I think it was a couple quarts low. The reason I think that is when they put the stock converter back in he kept saying I can't believe this is taking so much fluid. We sent it back for a refund and I still had to pay for the shipping and taking the converter back out. Later they did a converter in a vet and had the same issue, couldn't get it working correctly and the tuner couldn't get the issues worked out in the tune. Then they checked the fluid and seen it was a couple quarts low.

I would be pissed off and demand that they pay up for their errors in screwing the install up.

[G8-4-Speed]

I would be pissed off and demand that they pay up for their errors in screwing the install up.

I wouldn't be "mad" at the installers directly. You have to overfill the pans to the trans to work right with a stall. For some reason with the filter tucked up against the valve body, the valvebody being so large with a small opening, and high volume pump, it seems to cavitate to the gap in the valvebody just above the filter. It only does this with stalls. I have seen it with just about anyone who has installed a stall but some act worse than others. I added a 1 3/4 qt of fuild which made it good under normal driving but would still fall out of gear in first and second if you really got into it. I have delt with enough stalls in 6L80s to know what to do but most who don't wouldn't have any idea. Most of the time with low fluid levels, you loose high gear first, but 6L80s are just the opposite. Plus you can get false indications the trans is "full". It can be dripping out of the rear pan hole and still take a couple more qts before it "runs" out.

[MIEngineer]

If I am paying some shop to do something they charge me for because they say they can do it...I'd be ticked. I don't know anyone that wouldn't be.

Especially if they cost me more money and time on top of everything else...

[locrzn#92]

I should have for sure, they were struggling as a company and didn't want to put anymore pressure on them as they were the only performance shop in our area. They are now out of business, guess thats best for all probably.

[G8-4-Speed]

Virus's FTI converter WORKS GREAT! No noise....and he is back driving his car again.

[G8V8]

I drove it today too and it feels good. Credit to Rick and to FTI.

[Virus]

Rick did a great job on the car. We have some small tuning issues to work out, but as Ricks stated, the stall is fine and the new Century clutches are installed. Rick is awesome to work with! I am so glad that I shipped my car to him rather than going to a local shop. What an amazing board this is full of so many great people.

[G8GTSBM]

So, what was found to be wrong exactly.

[XplicitPerformance]

So many issues with stall converters and these cars :( It makes me really not want to put a converter in my wifes.

[-Ray-]

Sweet, Glad you are back to tearing up the streets.

[Virus]

So, what was found to be wrong exactly.

I will let Rick explain the technical part, but basically he thinks there was not enough fluid in the trans. Almost all of my clutches were fried. We still have a few tuning issues to straighten out, but have faith that it's just a tune away from being track ready again. There was nothing wrong with the converter.

[Virus]

So many issues with stall converters and these cars :( It makes me really not want to put a converter in my wifes. My best advice is when you install your stall make sure you buy the high flow Camaro filter, deeper pan and make damn sure you put in the correct amount of fluid. Really super simple upgrades that will protect the trans from taking a nose dive. Make sure you have a good tuner because tuning for a stall can be a bit tricky.

[desertg8]

What are those two part numbers and did you just buy a clutch kit from Century? If so how much does the clutch kit run?

[Virus]

You will probably want to call Mike at Century to discuss what he thinks you need. I ended up purchasing all new clutches, deep pan, etc. Mike and Rick talked me out of the billet shaft which saved $800. You can get many of the parts like the pan and the seals from Greg@Pace for a lot cheaper. My total bill was $850 from Century with Shipping. Here is the list of things I got:

13971

Century sells the Machined clutch pack ring for bigger clutch packs. Rick machined the clutch patch ring .040" off for .090" clearance as required by Century and saved me some money. His work is top notch!

[G8-4-Speed]

You will probably want to call Mike at Century to discuss what he thinks you need. I ended up purchasing all new clutches, deep pan, etc. Mike and Rick talked me out of the billet shaft which saved $800. You can get many of the parts like the pan and the seals from Greg@Pace for a lot cheaper. My total bill was $850 from Century with Shipping. Here is the list of things I got:

13971

Century sells the Machined clutch pack ring for bigger clutch packs. Rick machined the clutch patch ring .040" off for .090" clearance as required by Century and saved me some money. His work is top notch!

For yours, I went a litte extra. I machined the 2-6 ring .040" to get the .090" clearance but the 3-5 end plate I cut the "stand" down to get the clearance so it left the end clutch plate thicker. Was a bit of a PITA but felt it was better. Sure does not slip at all and doesn't take much for that clutch pack to grab. I must have done something right, he bought me a tasty lunch. I thought I would help out and talked the waiteress into some free samples....... Glad your happy with the work!:cheers:Now go put some more hard miles on it!

[wreckwriter]

Rick rocks! Wish you were closer to me buddy!

[Virus]

First time in a long time my steak was cooked right the first time :D

[G8GTSBM]

Must of had a good chef.

[G8V8]

Mine goes to Rick on the 18th for the full "Rick upgrade".

[desertg8]

Wish I was closer to Rick. At any rate I finally got my car back today with my new Yank 3600 SS. No more vibration that I used to feel with my foot on the rest pad. Much smoother and faster acceleration. No lock up issues and my transmission is smooth. The tune I did is not rocket science. It is mostly through the TCC tab of hp tuners. zero out the slip tables. ramp up the pressure tables. no lock on full throttle. partial lock in 4th, 5th, and 6th. I am very happy with the Yank.

[Virus]

Wish I was closer to Rick. At any rate I finally got my car back today with my new Yank 3600 SS. No more vibration that I used to feel with my foot on the rest pad. Much smoother and faster acceleration. No lock up issues and my transmission is smooth. The tune I did is not rocket science. It is mostly through the TCC tab of hp tuners. zero out the slip tables. ramp up the pressure tables. no lock on full throttle. partial lock in 4th, 5th, and 6th. I am very happy with the Yank.

So your issue was your stall?

[STL_G8GT]

So your issue was your stall?

To be honest, outside looking in, at this point I think there are too many variables to pin it on one thing.... bolts, tune, install, fluid, converter... its safe to say that starting fresh has fixed the issue.

[desertg8]

If I say it was I get flamed. Lets just say I am super happy with my new converter. Drives like stock. Silky smooth. And Dave was great to work with.

[wreckwriter]

I have to agree with STL, who can be sure at this point. However, it should be noted that not all of us have the same experiences with a product. My FTI converter launches me like a rocket and has yet to show a single issue after a full season; desert's experience and feelings might be different. He shouldn't be flamed for being honest if he believes that was the fault. I dunno if he would be right or wrong but honest opinions and reviews are one of the big reasons this is the top G8 performance site alive. That right has been protected here since Charlie started this thing.

[Virus]

I agree. You can write an honest assessment/opinion of what you believe to be true without bashing the company.

[G8-4-Speed]

Mine goes to Rick on the 18th for the full "Rick upgrade".

And hopefully get it installed a little sooner so I can drive it for the week. The trans tune is hard to adjust in a day and stay the way you want it. I had to make a bunch of "stupid" adjustments to the 2-3 drive shift for it to start working right. The trans "learned" so much garbage from it slipping before that it just didn't want to act right. Had to take out all the shift time, drive it a bunch, then put it back in after it "learned". And that was after using a "fast learn". Getting fast shifts are easy, getting shifts fast that just "step" over to the next gear over "hitting" is touchy. Downshifts are even tougher. The Century clutches changes the pressure requirement for the clutches to grab. "Good shift" settings get a little "jerky" with the same settings. I have plenty of trans tunes that work good, getting one to work "just right" is like starting from scratch. Way more work to tune a trans than an engine.

[Virus]

The tuning is off topic and I suggest it either be taken offline through PM or a thread created in the appropriate section of the forum.

[G8-4-Speed]

My best advice is when you install your stall make sure you buy the high flow Camaro filter, deeper pan and make damn sure you put in the correct amount of fluid. Really super simple upgrades that will protect the trans from taking a nose dive. Make sure you have a good tuner because tuning for a stall can be a bit tricky.


This^

[spider1701]

The tuning is off topic and I suggest it either be taken offline through PM or a thread created in the appropriate section of the forum.

Post deleted.

[FTI]

desert, Sounds like you got your problems resolved. Whose ever fault or what ever went wrong, I am glad you have them resolved. I am not hard to get a long with. Sometimes things dont work out but I do try my very hardest to make everyone happy. If I flamed you I appologize as I took it personal.

Greg

[G8V8]

And hopefully get it installed a little sooner so I can drive it for the week. The trans tune is hard to adjust in a day and stay the way you want it. I had to make a bunch of "stupid" adjustments to the 2-3 drive shift for it to start working right. The trans "learned" so much garbage from it slipping before that it just didn't want to act right. Had to take out all the shift time, drive it a bunch, then put it back in after it "learned". And that was after using a "fast learn". Getting fast shifts are easy, getting shifts fast that just "step" over to the next gear over "hitting" is touchy. Downshifts are even tougher. The Century clutches changes the pressure requirement for the clutches to grab. "Good shift" settings get a little "jerky" with the same settings. I have plenty of trans tunes that work good, getting one to work "just right" is like starting from scratch. Way more work to tune a trans than an engine.

Mine is actually running and shifting pretty well so I hope it is a bit easier to tune for the stall and HD clutches. I got the pan, filter and new-style trans mount today. The 6L90 input carrier is due Friday and the clutches, etc from Century are due Monday or Tuesday. I already have the FTI stall and the GM Pump Cover Kit.