brake job pointers

[Joeygr8gt]

hopefully doing my brake job next weekend installing rotors pads and stainless steel hoses..any pointers or threads that show how to flush/bleed/change hoses/ and pads or anyhting i need to know

[Napalm]

I don't know directly on the G8. But when trading lines, I recommend a Flare nut wrench (I believe you would need a 10mm, it was on the GTO). Those nuts can be rounded off very easily, and a flare nut wrench is a little more secure than just an open end. Course that depends on the brand of the tool some as well.

On the flush, I like to go opposite of the ABS Valve. So LH Rear, then RH rear, then LH front, and finish with RH front.

Also based on a recommendation from a friend of mine, I started cracking the bleeder when I push the pistons back in. This allows the old fluid behind the pistons to exit the caliper and not work back to the ABS valve.

When I flush I like to use a vacuum pump to get the fluid out of the reservoir first, but that might be difficult on the G8. Then put the new fluid on top, and draw it through. Saving the time of pulling the old fluid out through the brake lines.

On the rotors, get a rubber mallet. You might need to hammer then off the hubs. I prefer a rubber mallet. You don't want to hammer too hard either, but you can give a decent wack. Penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench is your friend as well. Don't use WD-40

Clean what you can, re-lube pins with grease

With new rotors, take a moment to put a little film of anti-seize on the hubs. Makes the next go around easier.

Sorry I was late to this, hope you got an answer somehere. Hopefully this helps someone.

[Joeygr8gt]

actually got them on pretty easy the lines after figuring out how to get them off took about 2 min each one the rotors can off easy and everything works perfect. with just rotors and lines you can feel a difference I didn't do calipers yet

[mooredata]

I'm looking to do this some time this summer, car should have about 30K on her by then. What pads and rotors did you get?

[Joeygr8gt]

went with dba slotted rotors and ebc red pads. no noise no dust

[-Ray-]

Do not let the brake fluid reservoir go empty. If the ABS module gets air in it, you'll most likely need a Tech II bleed.
Plug the lines as you remove them to keep fluid from draining.
Do you brake job first, then do the lines.
Attach brake line to the caliper last. That way you can let it gravity bleed before its attached to the caliper.
Put some grease around the bleeders on the calipers. When you brake them loose to bleed, air won't get sucked in the threads.
If the bleeders are tight, don't slowly try to open them, you'll most likely round off the bleeder. Instead, rap the wrench to quickly loosen the bleeder.
Use a rubber mallet and tap on the calipers while you bleed to remove any trapped bubbles.
If you don't have a power bleeder, the two man method works good.

[GRRRR8]

The fastest easy way to do this is to replace your rotors and pads 1st. Once this is done pinch the factory hose with a pair of needle nose Vise Grips. Then disconnect the hose at the fender side 1st. Then install new line at fender and tighten, then disconnect at caliper and install 2 new washers and install at caliper.

If you start at the right rear and bleed each 1 as you complete your install bleeding will be fast and easy. Keep the master cylinder full. If you want to start with fresh DOT4 fluid, suck the fluid out of the master cylinder after you replace the pads and rotors, fill with new fluid and then maintain fluid level while replacing hoses and bleeding. Keep cap on master cylinder as it will slow the draining process while changing the hoses.

[matts88yj]

Penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench is your friend as well. Don't use WD-40


I'll take it one step further here and say get yourself a small spray bottle from any hardware store and fill it with half Acetone, half ATF, label it 'The Stuff' and use that for your rust penetrating fluid. Obviously don't go spraying it all over your paint but for me that has been the very best at loosening stubborn nuts and bolts. Way better than PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Kano Kroil. Plus I know it smells a ton better than PB Blaster. That stuff stinks!

I'm looking to do my brakes here soon as well. I'm getting close to the 50k mark (darn long daily commute) and will be at least checking brakes and a few other maintenance items.

********** Found the rotor indexing post on the other board so I'll just share the info over here. **********

The indexing procedure spelled out in factory service manual calls for the use of a dial indicator and a magnetic base stand to measure the runout - or how true the disc is when rotated. It turns out that the minute variations between the hub's runout and the disc's runout can either add up and cause problems or cancel each other out and result in a true running wheel.

For the most part you are trying the five possible mounting "indexes" between the hub and disc and using the best one that falls within the tolerances provided by the manual.

You might notice that one of your wheel studs on each hub came with its end painted black from the factory. This was used to help with the indexing, you number the holes on the rotor with a marker, mount the disc using at least two lug nuts with the black stud in the number 1 hole - measure the runout and if it isn't within tolerance pull the rotor and try again using hole 2 on the black stud, then 3-4-5 if needed.

If you do this you might be surprised at the differences between the different index positions.

[Napalm]

I'm not the only one that advocates tapping the calipers with a rubber mallet. I usually only do that with a caliper, or line replacement.

And huge + 1 on the don't let the res go dry. I completely forgot to type that initially.

Also good point on the indexing thing, I've seen that alot recently. Some rotors have markings indicating the low side, or so I've been told. The hole nearest the low mark is supposed to go on the colored lug. Again, so I've been told. it worked well on the GTO.