EVAP CANISTER Part #92221384

[BlackPanther]

Has any one replaced their EVAP canister? If so where is it located and how long did it take replace? Dealer tried to hit me up for $707 and change for parts and labor. Looking to do it myself. Bought the canister @ gmpartsdirect.com for $167 shipped. Now comes the labor.

[LDM]

I've never done it, but it seems that the canister is back by the fuel tank, above the rear subframe. It is #4 in this picture:

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/images/parts/gm/fullsize/071108HE03A160.JPG

This would probably be why the labor costs so much. AllData says 3.3 hours for the job.

Evaporative Emission Canister Replacement

Removal Procedure

Danger: To avoid any vehicle damage, serious personal injury or death when major components are removed from the vehicle and the vehicle is supported by a hoist, support the vehicle with jack stands at the opposite end from which the components are being removed and strap the vehicle to the hoist.

Warning: Refer to Safety Glasses Warning.

Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
Remove the rear frame. Refer to Rear Frame Replacement.
Disconnect the canister purge tube (1) from the canister.
Remove the canister vent tube (3) from the canister by twisting and pulling it away from the canister.
Remove the canister to under body retaining bolts (2).
Remove the evaporative emission canister from the vehicle.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Diagrams/153146901.gif

Installation Procedure

Install the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister to the vehicle.
Install the EVAP canister retaining bolts (2). Hand tighten only. Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution.
Tighten the EVAP canister to vehicle retaining bolts and tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb in).
Install the canister vent pipe (3) to the canister vent port.
Align the canister purge pipe quick connector (1) with the canister purge pipe port and push the connector firmly onto the port.
Install the rear frame. Refer to Rear Frame Replacement.
Lower the vehicle.

[BlackPanther]

Thx LDM! Great detail. Got some work to do

[slow02gt]

is that even really needed? think my car is throwing a evap code...can i just take the damn thing off? or just turn the code off thru my hptuners?

[Crazy Paul]

is that even really needed? think my car is throwing a evap code...can i just take the damn thing off? or just turn the code off thru my hptuners?

Slow down hillbilly.
Make sure it's not the gas cap causing the Evap code.
There's several different codes (find out which one exactly) that indicate faults with different pieces of hardware at opposite ends of the car.

[slow02gt]

i will pull the codes and pm them to you...and im pretty sure its not the gas cap that causeing the code...

[Crazy Paul]

i will pull the codes and pm them to you...and im pretty sure its not the gas cap that causeing the code...
No problem.
I'll let you know what the book says about each code you can provide.

[rjones916]

P0442 evap small leak and p0445 evap large leak are the most common. The only true way to 100% find the problem is using a Tech 2, seal the vent and purge valves then pump smoke threw the system and look for leaks...Like said above, i'd be looking at the gas cap first, I know there was a redesign on it and I had to replace mine and my friends G8 had the same problem, also countless others I've seen...Gotta drop the whole rear subframe to access the gastank so I wouldn't be just jumping into that right away. lol. Not a huge deal, just something you don't want to do unless absolutely necessary.

-Ryan

[todds87ss]

Has any one replaced their EVAP canister? If so where is it located and how long did it take replace? Dealer tried to hit me up for $707 and change for parts and labor. Looking to do it myself. Bought the canister @ gmpartsdirect.com for $167 shipped. Now comes the labor.

I have replaced the purge sol. but not the canister. I dropped one side of the rear cradle to get to it. Looks like a lot more work getting to the canister - dropping both sides of the rear cradle. May need to see about an alignment after.

[XXFire]

I got code P0449...
Dealer wants 758 to replace...
ARGGG

[usafpilot]

I got code P0449...
Dealer wants 758 to replace...
ARGGG

This is my exact situation too…going to try DIY, with the 40.00 GTO part.

[G8-4-Speed]

It is directly above the differential housing.

[AVIDMOTION]

What 40 dollar gto part and did it work?

[Kratos g8]

I have the p0449 also.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

[AVIDMOTION]

How to replace the REAR EVAP SURGE VALVE Solenoid on G8.
We used part #

1 of: ACDelco 214-2164 OE Service Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid
Order Total: $18.94
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
Condition: New
$12.60 plus shipping
From BillyB
Chief Mechanic
Joe's 2009 G8 GT

(this is how we did it on an 2009)
(You will need a breaker bar, ratchet a 13/16" socket, long needle nose pliers, a long flathead screw driver, a flashlight. Two floor jacks, two jackstands and some paitents)
You are going to want a helper if possible. Get the car on level ground, jack up and support the car on driver and passinger side with Jack Stands! (Never, ever, ever rely on a jack to hold car up while you will be working under it).
With car on jack stands remove the passinger side rear tire.
Now locate the EVAP solenoid. It is just under the body line above the upper control arm of the rear suspension.
Now that you have located the solenoid its time to get out two floor jacks. you are going to want to support the subframe. One jack near the back of subframe near the bolt holding it up, and one at the front of the subframe where the forward bolt is. (same on both sides).
Go over to the driver side of the car and locate the same two bolts holding the subframe in place. At this time an impact gun is a help here if you have one but not needed. Once you have located the two bolts on that side you are going to need a 13/16" socket and a breaker bar or ratchet and short extension. Now loosen the bolts on the driver side a little bit to let the subframe move when the other side is loosened.
Now back to the passenger side of the car and remove the same two subframe bolts you just loosened on the drivers side. With the jacks supporting the subframe lower each jack a little at a time one than the other and lower the subframe on the passinger side of the car. This should give you about another 2.5-3" of room to get to and work on the solenoid.
You will need a long pair of needle nose pliers (we used a 10" pair). A long heavy flat screw driver a hammer and some patients.
Now Locate the mounting bracket for the solenoid (I stuck my phone in and snapped a pic to see what I was looking at)(good ides is to look a the new replacement to get an idea of what you are dealing with). You will need the long screwdriver to break off the top part of the plastic holding the solenoid on the bracket. Line up the long screw driver under the lip of the plastic mount area on the solenoid mounting bracket. With a few good hits of the hammer on the screw driver to upper lip of the plastic holding the selenoid in place will break the lip off allowing you to grab the solenoid and turn it to the right vertically and remove it off of the mounting bracket.
Now that the solenoid is off of its bracket you can turn it on its side and get to the upper rubber front on the solenoid housing, pinch the tabs and remove the hose and pull it off to the left to get it out of the way.
Now locate the power plug, slightly lift the keeper tab and pull down or to the left to unplug it.
This step is probably the trickiest part to removing this solenoid.
You are going to want to get those long needle nose pliers and get them onto the clamp and squeeze to open the compression clamp holding it onto the solenoid, move the clamp back until it is past the lip of the solenoid.
Take a long flat head screw driver and while holding the solenoid in your right hand and the screwdriver on the lip of the hose , push on the hose with the screw driver and pull the solenoid off of the hose.
(DO NOT just pull the selenoid you will risk braking or pulling the hose off of the casister further back and making the job 1000 times harder)
Now that the solenoid is out grab your new one and do a final comparison to make sure they are identical.
Place the new solenoid in its general area and replace the back hose.
(this was frustrating but very do able)
With a little more patients and a flashlight replace the solenoid back onto it's mounting bracket -push it unti it snapped in place.
Grab the hose you pulled off to the left earlier.(The front hose at the top of solenoid) back on by lining it up and pressing it on until it clicks/snaps back into place.
Grab the power plug back snap it in by lining it up and pushing upward until it clicks back into place.
Now that the solenoid is back into place and all connections are checked to make sure they are back in place and snapped or clamped on as they should be.
You can move on to putting the subframe back together.
Raise both of the two jacks supporting the sub frame one then the other and so on until you have the subframe back in place.
Replace the two bolts that were removed from the sub frame and tighten accordingly.
Re tighten the bolts that were loosened on the drivers side.
Remove from under the car both jacks on the passenger side that were used to hold the subframe.
Replace tire on passengers side.
Remove two jack stands on both sides and you are done.
Now you should reset the ECU code, it may go away on next start. But I would go into your OBDII reader and clear the ECU of the error and go take the car for a drive. You should have no issues with that solenoid after that.
(keep in mind there is also a filter/valve solenoid on the front top of the motor passenger side, that might need to be replaced as well if code returns.
Also check your gas cap.

[AVIDMOTION]

Can you believe my PIA purge valve is setting off po455 gross leak again.....

[WhatNext]

Oh no, you mean we can look forward to dealing with this shit again?!!

[todds87ss]

If you drive down very dusty roads, especially soon after startup, the vent can plug with dust (happened to my mazda). It was easy to remove and blow out. Ours is not easy, so I would just replace it.

[AVIDMOTION]

I am going to have to do it again, this time on a lift Soni will replace the valve and the stinking charcoal cannister. No dust around here, gonna look for a leak too, do a smoke leak test.... Pia

[cheapchevyman]

Recently got P0449.
Freaked out when I read the repair manual(s) stating to "remove rear frame" and what that entailed.
After reading these posts, I got the valve from Amazon and going to replace myself.

Thanks to Todd, AvidMotion, and all for the posts! Saving me $$$$

[Darkmanx]

Does anyone have a diagram for a 08 I can't fill my tank up past the 3/4 mark and I already changed the vent selenoid and blew out the hose with a air gun
. I'm not getting any codes either and I don't see any kinks