Cheap and easy way to remove your stock rubber bushings to install Pedders bushings.

[GeorgeInNePa]

There is already a tacked post here by DMS, dealing with the rear cradle bushings (with a lot of detail), so I won't bother with them here.

------------------------------------------

If you're like me, you have either the money for aftermarket parts or the money to have them installed, never both. ;)

After looking at the bushings and talking with Charlie, I figured out a cheap and easy method to get the stock bushings out with little fuss. You need to press them out, but what exactly do we mean by "press"?

Here is a press:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/G8/downsized_0102091547.jpg

That's all, a section of exhaust pipe, a piece of threaded rod, some washers and a few nuts. You need a flat, strong piece of steel to bridge the pipe so the washers/nuts have something to bear against. That will be the rusty metal piece in the pic. It was some type of triangular spacer I found under the pile of shit, I mean work-bench, in my fathers garage.

Here's what it looks like pushing/pressing out the bushing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/G8/downsized_0102091548.jpg

Now, in that pic, you'll see a few washers on the bushing, DO NOT USE THEM. I found it is easier to use just the nut. The bushing is rubber, bonded to a steel sleeve. The bushing comes out with less force if the rubber is allowed to deform. The nut, 11/16", was big enough to pull the sleeve and the bond was strong enough to pull the rubber out without tearing the sleeve from the rubber.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/G8/downsized_0102091549.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/G8/downsized_0103092154.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/G8/downsized_0103092203.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/G8/0103092210.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/G8/0103092224.jpg

It really is that easy. If you took advantage of the Pedders sale and were wondering what you need to do to get these installed, there you go.

I don't have the diff bushings yet, they should be here this week. I'll update with a pic or two then.

Since I am so proud of my self, I rewarded me with a bottle of almost 4 yrear old Chimay from the beer cellar.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/G8/0103092340.jpg

[GRRRR8]

Good job George! I see the bushings are RED. lol I like that, the glass to go with the beer too! Where are my Saturday night videos! lol

[GeorgeInNePa]

Good job George! I see the bushings are RED. lol I like that, the glass to go with the beer too! Where are my Saturday night videos! lol

Ha.

I didn't get too boozy, so I haven't been surfing YouTube.

I'll have to find you something.

[-Ray-]

Nice work George, did you chill the beer?

[jnak]

Cheap DIY solutions FTW!

I didn't know beer would still be good after 5 years.

[GeorgeInNePa]

Nice work George, did you chill the beer?

I keep the beer in my basement, under my reloading bench, lol.
This time of year, it's perfect, low 50's in that room with the heat off.

Even during the summer it doesn't get above 60 or so.


Cheap DIY solutions FTW!

I didn't know beer would still be good after 5 years.

High gravity (high alcohol) beer will age just like wine, especially if it is bottle conditioned. Bottle conditioning is beer that is unfiltered and contains live yeast. Instead of force cabonating, the brewer uses bottling sugar, yeast, and time to carbonate the beer.

The same yeast that makes the little bubbles will continue to alter the beer in the bottle, if kept at cellar temps (45-58) the change is for the better. The beer will mellow, the sharp tones associated with high gravity go away. The yeast will also alter the flavor profile slightly. It also add to the alcohol content, of course.

Even non-bottle conditioned beer will smooth out over time. The trick is to pick the right beer and age it correctly. You can get the reverse effects with Bud, for instance. ;)


Drinking aged Chimay is like drinking the tears of an Angel. Seriously, a Belgian, properly aged is magical.

[dms]

Great job on the rear bushes! I might add one comment for you. The 2 lower bushes that are pressed into the rear knuckle does not require removing the knuckle assembly. In fact the lower control arm bush is so soft and pliable, you can put a socket on it, and with a long screw driver, pry the bush right out. Might take 10 seconds!.

Have you tried the front bushings? The radius rod and lower control arm bushings are too tight to use your procedure. They can take 10 tons or so of pressure to press them in/out. If you do not have access to a press, any machine shop can do it for you.

Also, if you want, you can send my your control and radius rod arms, and I will press them in/out for you for no labor charge, just the bushes.

thanks
mike
dms

[GeorgeInNePa]

Great job on the rear bushes! I might add one comment for you. The 2 lower bushes that are pressed into the rear knuckle does not require removing the knuckle assembly. In fact the lower control arm bush is so soft and pliable, you can put a socket on it, and with a long screw driver, pry the bush right out. Might take 10 seconds!.

Have you tried the front bushings? The radius rod and lower control arm bushings are too tight to use your procedure. They can take 10 tons or so of pressure to press them in/out. If you do not have access to a press, any machine shop can do it for you.

Also, if you want, you can send my your control and radius rod arms, and I will press them in/out for you for no labor charge, just the bushes.

thanks
mike
dms

I had the rear axles out of the car for another reason, so the knuckles were on the ground anyway.

My front radius rod bushings are back-ordered. I have a press at my fathers place, but depending on what's going on at the time, I might just take you up on your offer. Thank you.

:)

[dms]

I had the rear axles out of the car for another reason, so the knuckles were on the ground anyway.

My front radius rod bushings are back-ordered. I have a press at my fathers place, but depending on what's going on at the time, I might just take you up on your offer. Thank you.

:)

I would be honored to be able to help you.

mike
dms

[GeorgeInNePa]

I finally got around to attempting the diff bushings tonight. It warmed up enough that I felt like working in my unheated garage.

Let me start off by saying I'm beat. lol They are not as easy as the other bushings.

If you have any thought of doing the rear upper control arm bushings, EP7263, you are going to want to do them at the same time as the diff bushings, EP1167, and the rear cradle bushings, EP1169. You have to drop the exhaust to do the diff bushings and you'll need to drop the rear cradle to do the upper control arm bushings and drop the rearmost mufflers, so you might as well do them all at the same time. I didn't do the cradle or control arm bushings tonight, that's tomorrows job.

Drop the rear of the exhaust, if you have a ARH system, it's simple, just remove the band clamps just behind the drives-haft tunnel cross member. Then remove the two bolts that hold the mufflers above the exhaust tips. Then remove the rear exhaust. (X2)

Next remove the three bolts that hold the diff in the car while supporting the diff with a jack.

I have the axles out of the car to replace the shafts, when they are available, so I have the option of removing the entire diff. As it turns out, that's what I ended up doing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/0128092343.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/0128092349.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/0129090017.jpg

At this point, I got tired of fighting with the diff while laying on my back, so I removed the three bolts from the drive shaft and removed the diff. You could, at this point put the rear of the diff back up in the mount, install the bolt, drop the drive shaft and lower the front of the diff to do the front two mounts.

If you have a lift, that's the way to do it, if you have power tools, that's the way to do it. On your back and have only ratchets and wrenches? Remove the diff completely or consider paying someone else to do it. lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/0129090119.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/0129090134.jpg

These are the rotten bastards you are trying to remove'
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/0129090212.jpg


All three came out intact, getting the outer aluminum sleeve to start moving is the bitch, the inner rubber will stretch quite a ways before the outer sleeve starts to slip out. Then it will move a bit at a time. I'm sure air tools would work much better.

The diff is back in the car, I'm going to do the rear cradle and the upper control arm bushings tomorrow while the exhaust is out of the way.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

[Kermit]

I ended up going to the auto hobby shop on base and doing it on a lift. It surly was a royal pain in the but to do. I had to end up drilling out the rubber and then using a bigger bolt and nut "presser" to get mine out. Please tell me that these are the hardest bushings to do under the car! I can't imagine something being harder then these while the diff. is still in the car. :)

[GeorgeInNePa]

I ended up going to the auto hobby shop on base and doing it on a lift. It surly was a royal pain in the but to do. I had to end up drilling out the rubber and then using a bigger bolt and nut "presser" to get mine out. Please tell me that these are the hardest bushings to do under the car! I can't imagine something being harder then these while the diff. is still in the car. :)

From what I understand the radius rod bushings are hard also. But at least you have the whole rod out and can work in a real press.