Rust Proofing the G8

[pha|anx]

so, there aren't any threads like this on this forum. I just moved across the country to the snow/salt belt (South-Central Ontario) from Alberta (no salt, just sand/gravel used in winter). I will be driving the G8 in the snow, as I have a set of OE sized Michelin X-Ice Xi2's mounted on the factory 18's. I've been trying to do as much homework on the topic as I can, and I think I've narrowed it down to two possibles:


1. Corrosion Free Rust Proofing - http://www.corrosionfree.com/
2. Krown Rust Control - http://www.krown.com/


I (http://www.krown.com/) did research on electronic rust inhibitors as well, and it seems like anything that is Cathodic in nature really won't do shit as its meant for things submerged in water where electrons move freely through the medium. so there are the 2 companies I'm looking into. they both have different processes as advertised. both seem to have decent capabilities of fighting rust, and generally seem to only need reapplied once every 2 years as opposed to annually.

Krown seems to use a more conventional product that will drip and remain highly oily, whereas Corrosion Free seems to use something that is oil based but gels and doesn't drip as much. BOTH claim to require hole drilling in doors, etc. I'm terrified of rust, but I'm not sure I want some kid at one of these places cutting up my fucking car-- unless its absolutely necessary (or not as big a deal as I think it is). based on what I've read so far, I'm leaning heavily towards the Corrosion Free process.


QUESTIONS


Does the G8 have door access panels that these gluebags might use to spray their garbage into the doors instead of having to drill holes?


Anyone anywhere that drives their G8 in the winter in a region where they salt the roads, have any advice either way?


Does anyone have any experiences to share on the topic? success with rust proofing? etc.



I really do not want to drive this thing in the winter here, but I really don't want to buy a piece of shit when I have 4 expensive winter tires that are already mounted, only a year old, and will do a great job I'm sure. I fucking hate salt/brine/etc. that certain places seem to put on the roads. sand worked just fine out on the prairies. problem is out west its typically -40 during the winter months with little snow, and here near the Great Lakes its not nearly that cold, but snows like hell and thus the salt/brine/shit they put down instead of just sand.


any insight/experience/wisdom would be appreciated. :shutup:



ps- don't tell me to garage it in the winter, not happening. this sedan is a DD, and will remain such.

FWIW- I see a lot of stuff getting on 10 years old around here that use either of the above processes, and are still in great shape DD through all 4 seasons.


EDIT

I'm not naive, I realize that preventing a car from rusting is impossible. I would love to MINIMIZE it during the time I own this vehicle, especially if I keep it for a long time.

EDIT 2

I've read that certain processes (Krown, Ziebart, and others) have had people claiming rubber seal and plastic damage over time. apparently some stuff is more corrosive than others and Corrosion Free seems to claim that its stuff won't damage that shit.

[IRISH]

Cars today do not rust like they once did, with that said my G8 was undercoated by the dealer at a place in Burlington and they made a mess, I have that yellow S**T in places where it does not belong, it is dirty sticky and ugly now. I had the G8 detailed in Los Angles this summer and the unfortunate guy wiping the car down struggled with that undercoating LOL

I did remove the lower rubbers under the doors, they seemed like they would hold the dirt and salt and create a problem in the winter months, now it is easy to clean.

If you do have the car undercoated, go with Krown, easy clean up but in my opinion it is a waste of money, they G8 will wear out before it rusts out, just wash it lots in the winter with a low pressure hose.

[-Ray-]

I think a key to this is making sure you don't trap salt/brine to the underside if you do some kind of coating. Additionally, a serious detail will be needed in the spring. If you want to keep the car for a long time, you'll need to repair rust that does appear on surfaces. I think you'll find that the front cradle will rust first.

[TooManyHobbies]

I have some rust spots on my front and rear subframes. I would like to work on them before winter sets in. What is a recommended product to fix/coat those areas with?

[-Ray-]

Sand and paint.

[Napalm]

exactly. And don't just use some cheap paint.

There was a product, and I assume its still made called PDQ. It was a paint and anti-rust agent. Supposedly it would neutralize rust and then seal the metal preventing more rusting.

Also Consider a good primer coat and then a paint coat.

On the undercoating thing, I know the GTO's came with something from the factory. I was surprised to see the g8 didn't have any. but I would say modern galvanized, high boron content steel isn't has susceptible to rust. but that doesn't mean you don't need some protection. Paint does quite alot.

[Monty]

The body and door panels are galvanized steel, but the subframes front and rear are just painted steel.

[Napalm]

Based on what?

I'll admit its been a while since I read the DOT certification requirements, but I'm pretty sure back in the 90's there was a change that required all body steel components to be made of a galvanic treated steel alloy.

As far as I know the sub frames are made of the same sheet metal as the rest of the body.

[pha|anx]

bump


any new advice or anything I've missed? when my car gets out of the shop its going to get sprayed even though I'm garaging it most of this winter... anyone? Bueller?

[texn884]

Just move to TEXAS and save the money, lol.

[I12XLR8]

BOTH claim to require hole drilling in doors, etc. I'm terrified of rust, but I'm not sure I want some kid at one of these places cutting up my fucking car-- unless its absolutely necessary (or not as big a deal as I think it is). based on what I've read so far, I'm leaning heavily towards the Corrosion Free process.

Do not let anyone drill into your car! This drilling does not make sense for a couple of reasons:

First, every manufacturer gives a corrosion warranty with their vehicles which can be voided for a number of reasons. One of these reasons would be drilling through the paint into the steel. You have now broken the best corrosion barrier you have which is your unmarred paint.

Second, think about why they are drilling for a minute. They are drilling because they have no other access into the panel that they are trying to protect. If they can't get their product into that door frame (or wherever they are drilling) how is salt and water supposed to get in there? I've heard many people say that metal rusts from the inside out which is why it needs to be coated. Although I'm sure this can happen if the car is not built well I do not think it is the norm.



Does the G8 have door access panels that these gluebags might use to spray their garbage into the doors instead of having to drill holes?

Yes. Every car has drainage holes along the bottom of all four doors and the trunk which is where places like Mr. Lube (shameless plug) will access to protect your vehicle without drilling. These drainage hole are there to ensure a clear escape route for water should any get in through the window seal and to allow for some air circulation to keep the area dry even in very humid regions. Drilling a hole halfway up your door is a great idea if you submerge your vehicle in the ocean from time to time :huh:



Anyone anywhere that drives their G8 in the winter in a region where they salt the roads, have any advice either way?

Does anyone have any experiences to share on the topic? success with rust proofing? etc.

I live in Ottawa and the city LOVES to use salt. We do quite a bit of undercoating where I work but personally I don't use it. The product is great and works well for most people but I wash my car daily in the winter so salt is never on the car long enough to be able to do any damage. I hate the mess that it leaves behind (even with a very careful application) as I like to bring the cars to shows in the summer and getting that stuff off is a nightmare.



I'm not naive, I realize that preventing a car from rusting is impossible.

There is always a trade-off between protecting the car and enjoying it daily. You can prevent a car from rusting but it means you only drive it in perfect weather. You have indicated that you will be driving the car so if you won't be washing the car at least every few days then you need an extra barrier of protection to help keep the salt/water mix away from any exposed steel. Both products you mentioned will work as will almost anything else out there that is a yearly application.

Stay off gravel/dirt roads as and chips in the paint will rust eventually. Every spring I check my cars underneath and take care of any issues before they get too bad (sanding and painting). Might sound like a lot of work but when done yearly it only takes an hour or so.



I've read that certain processes (Krown, Ziebart, and others) have had people claiming rubber seal and plastic damage over time. apparently some stuff is more corrosive than others and Corrosion Free seems to claim that its stuff won't damage that shit.

Even if they do damage rubber they shouldn't be applying the product to anything rubber. The only places you'll have a problem with this is those that make a big mess with the application.

I hope this all helps!