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LDM
09-09-2011, 03:42 PM
There are many different backup camera options out there and ways to install them, but I haven't seen too many threads on the subject of installing them so I thought I'd share my install that I just did with a bunch of pics.

Here's a list of the parts I used:
Boyo VTL275HD Camera (this is a chrome frame, if you want black get the 375 model)
Boyo VTX100 Wireless Transmitter/Receiver
Rear Aux video cable (learn how to make one in this thread: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=13238)
Miscellaneous tape, wire terminals, zip ties, etc.

Here's a picture of the major parts:
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0349.jpg

The camera comes with a short attached cable with a small 4-pin connector, an extension cable, and an adapter cable to make your power hookup and video connection with.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0350.jpg

The transmitter has a video input (and audio if you want) and a power cable. The receiver has a outputs and a power cable, but also has an option for an aux video input that would display whenever the backup camera is off. I have nothing to use here now, but am saving it for the touchscreen iPod interface that will hopefully be available soon. Using this wireless transmitter/receiver also saves me from running the video cable all the way to the head unit from the trunk.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0351.jpg

The first thing I did was strip the trunk of all it's carpeting and liners. This is pretty straight forward, just a bunch of pins to remove and couple screwed hooks.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0313.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0347.jpg

Once the license plate is removed, you need to remove the screw retainers and a plug that will be used for the cable. The screw retainers come out easy, just squeeze the three clips on the inside.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0344-1.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0353.jpg

The cable on the plate frame has two grommets already on it, the small one is perfectly sized for the hole that you removed the plug from, while the bigger one can just be snipped off.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0354.jpg

The frame is held in place by recessed stainless hex bolts, and to make it look better I filed off the writing and then buffed it with a Dremel tool
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0310.jpg

It comes with four bolts, but I didn't want to drill my trunk lid so I shortened two of the bolts so that they'd fit between the plate and the trunk lid. I tested it and it's secure enough with just the top two bolts.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0355.jpg

I secured the wire to the frame with tape and wrapped to prevent chafing where it would run along the plate.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0357.jpg

I already had some closed-cell foam on the back of the plate to prevent any rattles. With a utility knife i just cut a channel in the foam for the cable to run to the hole in the trunk lid.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0359.jpg

I then taped the cable in place along the back of the plate. Though not shown, I also taped the nuts to prevent them rubbing on the paint.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0360.jpg

To seal the holes left by the screw retainers, I covered them with electrical tape, but cut an x shaped slit in the one that the bolt would pass through.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0362.jpg

Here's the inside once the plate is secured. I just zip tied the cable to the plate light harness.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0363.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0368.jpg

Next was the tricky part of getting the extension cable through the rubber boot. I disconnected the plate light harness from inside the trunk and then pulled the boot out. Like this I was eventually able to get wire through the boot. I then snaked a wire through the trunk lid and used it to pull the extension cable to the connection. The other end of the extension cable I fed back into the trunk, put the boot back in, and then ran the wire through the passage at the top of the trunk to the driver's side. I eventually pulled it out near the unused connector for the parking sensors.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0369.jpg

At the parking sensor connector, I extracted the green and black wires from the connector. The green wire is the reverse light circuit, and black is ground. If I had the right terminals I could have probably left the pins in place, but I pulled them out so I could get spade connectors on them.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0370.jpg

At this point I soldered the power wires for the camera and wireless transmitter together and then crimped a female spade connector on them. I did the same for the two ground wires.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0371.jpg

Connect the power wire to the green wire, and the grounds to the black wire. This ensures that the camera and transmitter only come on when in reverse, and allows the auto-switching function of the receiver to work. I covered the connections with heat shrink tubing and wrapped them in electrical tape to prevent them from touching and shorting out. I mounted the transmitter with some industrial strength Velcro just because it was the easiest solution. The transmitter weighs almost nothing so it isn't going to go anywhere. You can now plug the power and video cables into the transmitter, and then bundle all the excess wire out of sight. I just stuck the excess down in the hole that's right there.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0375.jpg

You're now done in the trunk and can move to the passenger's seat. I've dropped the glove box a few times before so it was easy, but in case you haven't this thread goes over the process: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=16705.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0377.jpg

Plug your VIM/VIP video cable into the head unit now. I didn't take a picture after I did, but here is where it goes:
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0378-1.jpg

I mounter the receiver with a zip tie on the bottom through an unused hole, and more Velcro on the top. Connect the video out cable to the cable you just attached to the head unit.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0383.jpg

I got power and ground for the receiver from the 12V accessory plug that I removed when I installed the cubby in the center stack trim. I just crimped male spade terminals on the wire and stuck them into the connector. If you still have the 12V outlet installed, you could tap into the cigarette lighter plug a little further in. I've already used this for my GPS and iPod, as you can see the two red wires coming down.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0380-1.jpg

Now that everything is connected, it would be a good time to test it before putting all your trim panels back. Make sure Rear Aux is enabled on the head unit and then press the Aux button to bring it up. At this point my screen is blank because I have nothing plugged into the aux input of the receiver. When I shift into reverse though, the camera image pops up. Shift back to park or drive and the screen goes blank again.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0384.jpg

Now you can put your dash and trunk back together.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0392.jpg

Here's a couple pictures of the camera installed:
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0393.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0394.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0396.jpg

Like I said at the beginning, there is more than one way to do this, but this worked for me and I'm happy with the results. Massachusetts law doesn't allow any frames that obstruct any writing on the plate, so this camera's slim design is perfect for this while a lot of cameras out there would be covering the "Massachusetts". I still need to get VIM, but I generally back up using the mirrors mostly anyway. The camera would just be for the last foot or so as I'm inching slowly at just a few mph. Once I have another video input, then the VIM would really be necessary.

Any questions or comments?


EDIT: October 16, 2011 Update

Well I keep tweaking my setup, but finally finished it today. A couple weeks ago, I integrated the factory backup cam harness that I bought from Crazy Paul. Today I added a remote controlled relay that allows me to turn on the camera even when I'm not in reverse.

The first thing I did was modify the license plate retainers I had removed the first time around, and put them back in. I didn't want to permanently modify them at first in case I had to go back to just the plate with no camera, but I bought two new ones from C.P. for a couple bucks in case that ever happens. To modify them I just drilled out the hole larger to accept the bolt, and cut off the tabs so that the nut could sit flush.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0483.jpg

Next I swapped out the lower nuts on the plate with thinner jam nuts, and trimmed the bolts even further. I then redid the foam on the back of the plate.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0513.jpg

Where I had tapped in for power at the reverse object sensor connector I extracted the final brown/blue wire and then cut off all three pins as close as possible. I then put a new three pin connector on from a JEGS connector kit I have. This brown/blue wire is ignition hot, so I was anticipating my later relay mod that I'll get to below.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0486.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0495.jpg

The new Holden trunk lid harness I bought is shown here: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=19059&p=401299&viewfull=1#post401299. It is an 8 wire harness, but I only need 6. On the camera end is a small green 6 pin connector that I removed. I then soldered the end from the Boyo extension cable onto four of the wires. The extra two wires I just shrink wrapped the ends and hid them in the harness.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0501.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0504.jpg

I swapped out the connectors for the plate bulbs because although very similar, they were slightly different. On the other end of the harness, I removed the large gray 8 pin connector, because there would be nothing for it to plug into. I removed the harness plug off the existing harness, and after crimping new pins on the two wires for the plate bulbs (brown/white and one of the black ones), put it on the new harness. I then put a 4 pin connector on the same wires I soldered the camera plug onto the other end. The extra two wires I just folded out of the way.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0499.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0509.jpg

I re-ran the Boyo extension cable along the lower trunk lip this time along the existing body harness. I cut it to length so I wouldn't have all the excess coiled up, and then put a 4 pin connector on it.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0505.jpg

I hooked everything back up, with temporary connections on the green and black wires back at the 3 pin harness I installed in place of the reverse object sensor connector. That brings me today.

I had bought a mini SPDT relay from Painless Wiring, and a Logisys RM01 remote controlled relay. On the SPDT, the normally closed contact is hooked up to the backup light circuit, powering the camera as normal. If I energize the relay, it closes a contact hooked up to an ignition voltage source, so I can have the camera on whenever I want. To energize the relay, I have a separate relay that is controlled by a remote key fob.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0595.jpg

If anyone wants to do this, I could put together a wiring diagram of what I did, but I basically ended up with a harness that looked like this. There's a 3 pin connector that plugs into that reverse object sensor connector replacement, a connector that plugs into the Boyo extension cable, and also the power and video plugs for the wireless video transmitter. The blue wire is the antenna for the remote relay.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0598.jpg

Here's what it looks like with everything installed in place. Last time I had my trunk apart I relocated the OnStar/Bluetooth box so that's what you see on top of the wheel arch.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0603.jpg

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0600.jpg

Here's a quick video that shows the operation of this new relay. When in rear aux, the camera automatically will pop up whenever I shift into reverse. If I want to see it in a different gear, push the button on the key fob and I have the camera display again. (Note, my screen goes black because I have nothing normally hooked up to the Rear Aux.)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HoJPTviOXg

I realize this install is way more complicated than it needs to be, but it's the way I want it. If you aren't comfortable with wiring, it may be more difficult for you, but if you have a good understanding of electricity and have the right tools it's not too bad. You don't have to do it this way, but this may give you some ideas on how to do your own project, which is what this forum is all about. Thanks again to Crazy Paul for getting me the parts I needed to complete this.

I12XLR8
09-09-2011, 04:03 PM
Great write up! I've been keeping an eye on this mod but I have been concerned about the cheezy look of most of the back-up camera's out there. In this case it looks clean and very close to stock so I'm a little closer to getting it done. Have you totaled up the cost for everything? It would be nice to know how much this mod put you back...

Great job and thanks for the detailed post!

Screenname7
09-09-2011, 04:04 PM
Awesome write up, I have a camera waiting to go in and will definitely use this as a resource! Thanks for the effort and attention to detail.

LDM
09-09-2011, 04:12 PM
Great write up! I've been keeping an eye on this mod but I have been concerned about the cheezy look of most of the back-up camera's out there. In this case it looks clean and very close to stock so I'm a little closer to getting it done. Have you totaled up the cost for everything? It would be nice to know how much this mod put you back...

Great job and thanks for the detailed post!

The I found the camera cheapest on ebay for about $150 USD and the transmitter/receiver (which is optional) was about $90 USD from Amazon. Tape, Velcro, and the other stuff were just a couple of bucks. There are probably cheaper camera options out there, but like you I wasn't looking for something cheesy looking.

-Ray-
09-10-2011, 03:49 AM
Thanks for writing this up. A few will do this now that theres some good instructions.

GXPaycheck
09-10-2011, 04:50 AM
Nice job and great writeup!
Once you get the VIM you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.

solty
09-10-2011, 05:24 AM
nice "how to", thanks for sharing

astynx
09-10-2011, 05:45 AM
Thanks for install diy. What is purpose of extension cable that gets routed through trunk boot and is the parking sensor connector easily visible? Again thanks for write-up and photos. edit: reread post, extension cable to tie into parking sensor connector.

LDM
09-10-2011, 08:52 AM
Thanks for install diy. What is purpose of extension cable that gets routed through trunk boot and is the parking sensor connector easily visible? Again thanks for write-up and photos. edit: reread post, extension cable to tie into parking sensor connector.

The cable coming off the camera is only about a foot long so the extension cable is needed to get it to where you want to go. The extension is at least 20 ft long so if you wanted to run it all the way to the head unit and skip the wireless transmitter, you could. One end has a 4 pin mini connector that is small enough to fit through most holes without a problem. The other end has a round plug connector that attaches to the short adapter cable. This adapter cable just has a RCA video cable and the power and ground wire.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0350-1.jpg

The parking sensor connector is real easy to find. It's just sitting above the factory amplifier not plugged into anything.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/lenmartin23/G8/Backup%20Camera/DSC_0315-1.jpg

astynx
09-10-2011, 09:16 AM
Thanks for the reply and picture of trunk showing parking sensor connecter. I will probably go with the wireless version.

ghodge
09-10-2011, 10:51 AM
Do you have horizontal "static" lines running across the screen when the motor is running? I installed the Gentex mirror with the integral backup display. Initially I ran the cable along the passenger side of the car and got "static" with the engine running. Engine off things were clear as a bell. I then went to an Audiovox wireless receiver/transmitter pair like the boyo and got even more interference with the engine running. I then went back to the 20ft extension cable and moved it all around the car and no matter what I did, I still got the horizontal interference. This is even with ferrite chokes installed close to the rearview mirror display and at the camera end. Just for the record, I'm using the Boyo 300C.

Kermit
09-10-2011, 01:33 PM
GRRRR8 right up LDM. I'm still wanting to do something like this and this only helps me think I should.
Do you have to push the Aux button every time you back up to see the video? It wont automatically switch from radio face to back up camera? Do you loose the radio when backing up?

LDM
09-10-2011, 02:17 PM
Do you have horizontal "static" lines running across the screen when the motor is running? I installed the Gentex mirror with the integral backup display. Initially I ran the cable along the passenger side of the car and got "static" with the engine running. Engine off things were clear as a bell. I then went to an Audiovox wireless receiver/transmitter pair like the boyo and got even more interference with the engine running. I then went back to the 20ft extension cable and moved it all around the car and no matter what I did, I still got the horizontal interference. This is even with ferrite chokes installed close to the rearview mirror display and at the camera end. Just for the record, I'm using the Boyo 300C.

I haven't noticed any static, though I haven't used it all that much yet. The picture I took of the screen was with the engine running.


GRRRR8 right up LDM. I'm still wanting to do something like this and this only helps me think I should.
Do you have to push the Aux button every time you back up to see the video? It wont automatically switch from radio face to back up camera? Do you loose the radio when backing up?

If I'm listening to the radio, a CD, or Front Aux and want to see the camera, I have to manually push the Aux button. If I was already in Rear Aux, then I wouldn't have to touch anything, just put it in reverse and the camera image would pop up. The way it is right now I don't have any audio hooked up to my Rear Aux so if I were to switch to it, I'd lose all sound. Ultimately, I hope Demon 8 releases this: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=26768, in which case I'd have the video from my iPod going to the aux input on my wireless receiver, and the sound going to my currently unused Rear Aux audio cables on my head unit. In that situation I'd probably leave the radio in Rear Aux all the time. It would normally display the video out of the iPod, but when I shift to reverse it would auto-switch to the backup camera. Any music playing would be unaffected. Now I just need VIM.

rjones916
09-10-2011, 05:11 PM
I sooo wanna do this, after driving all the new GM's with the camera's in the mirror's I'm addicted, soo easy to parallel park.

-Ryan

jcmGT
09-11-2011, 07:56 AM
FWIW, I installed a boyo VL375 few weeks back. I ran the wire through a existing hole between the back-up lights. From there I ran inside the lid along the passenger side and snaked through the existing rubber conduit.
12384

LDM
09-11-2011, 08:14 AM
FWIW, I installed a boyo VL375 few weeks back. I ran the wire through a existing hole between the back-up lights. From there I ran inside the lid along the passenger side and snaked through the existing rubber conduit.


That's where I was going to run the wire until I realized the hole behind the plate worked and hid the wire better. Once inside the trunk lid I followed the same path as you. Did you drill holes for the bottom two bolts on the frame? It would've been easy enough to do but I was just concerned with creating a possible rust source further down the road, which is why I did what I did. I may end up changing it and drilling the holes later though.

jcmGT
09-11-2011, 08:26 AM
no additional holes, like you... just a source for rust.

I bolted the frame to the plate only. Had some thin (stop) nuts that I used, trimmed the bolts flush with the nut then used a small section of heater hose around the nut as a standoff.

Kermit
09-12-2011, 01:02 PM
LDM,
Did you see my earlier post? Any answers to my questions?

LDM
09-12-2011, 01:04 PM
LDM,
Did you see my earlier post? Any answers to my questions?

Did you see post #13? I tried to answer it.

LDM
10-01-2011, 05:00 AM
Do you have horizontal "static" lines running across the screen when the motor is running? I installed the Gentex mirror with the integral backup display. Initially I ran the cable along the passenger side of the car and got "static" with the engine running. Engine off things were clear as a bell. I then went to an Audiovox wireless receiver/transmitter pair like the boyo and got even more interference with the engine running. I then went back to the 20ft extension cable and moved it all around the car and no matter what I did, I still got the horizontal interference. This is even with ferrite chokes installed close to the rearview mirror display and at the camera end. Just for the record, I'm using the Boyo 300C.

Just an update, now that I've used it a little bit, I do occasionally get these static lines. They seem to come and go, so I'm not sure about the cause. I don't use it enough for it to bother me yet.

LDM
10-16-2011, 03:02 PM
I've changed my setup and updated the original post to reflect those changes.

TelenGT
04-13-2014, 10:28 AM
I did a similar setup a few weeks ago (went wired instead of wireless) and this guide was invaluable. After it was all setup the screen was getting very noticeable, horizontal, interference lines. To resolve the problem, the video line needs a ground loop isolator. It cleaned up all of the interference lines for my setup. If someone else should happen to try this mod; hopefully, this will be of assistance if the same issue is encountered. This is the unit I picked up: http://www.amazon.com/C2G-41145-Composite-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B000SNS6MI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1397412897&sr=8-7&keywords=rca+isolator

LDM
04-13-2014, 11:25 AM
I probably should've updated this again but the wireless unit crapped out and I switched to a wired setup last year. I forgot to take pictures, but I basically made a custom relay box that handles the auto-switching of the video feed when I put it in reverse as well as manual switching when I flip a rocker switch. The end result was simpler and works better.

bamagto
06-09-2014, 12:17 PM
Do you still have the horizontal interference lines on your screen or did you fix that? Is it just when you're using the camera that you see the lines?

LDM
06-09-2014, 12:29 PM
Any interference that I would occasionally get went away when I got rid of the wireless units and switched to a wired setup.

Wagonbacker9
12-10-2015, 07:29 AM
Yes, I realize I'm bumping an old thread...

Do you happen to have the part number for the factory rear object sensor harness? I found 92214356 for the full kit but can't find just the harness. I'd prefer to plug into the factory harness rather than splicing if I can.

LDM
12-10-2015, 02:37 PM
Yes, I realize I'm bumping an old thread...

Do you happen to have the part number for the factory rear object sensor harness? I found 92214356 for the full kit but can't find just the harness. I'd prefer to plug into the factory harness rather than splicing if I can.

If I did, I would've gone that route myself. I don't think you can get the harness without getting the whole sensor kit.

Wagonbacker9
12-14-2015, 09:13 AM
If I did, I would've gone that route myself. I don't think you can get the harness without getting the whole sensor kit.

It would appear you're correct. I just disassembled the plug and taped the plastic to the harness in case I ever want to put it back together.